What did you do to your supra today? Pics

Piratetip

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Build a jig using the old and make a new one from scratch? :cool:
Use 304 stainless instead of the aluminized steel pipe this one has. :D
 
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Dumeinao

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lets see where do you want me to start lol.... tomorow pwr steering pump is coming out so i can trade it for another remained one.... then saturday im puting some kickass underlights on that are gonna be wired to my keyless entry so when i hit unlock the underlights flash when i open the door they comeon lol just to be cool lol not gonna be rice and drive around with them on.... sunday replacing all the low preasure lines on the steering system as well as high preasure line with new rack.... long weekend
Be sure to NOT lose your woodruff key. I had to go to Toyota to get a new one. because I didn't realize I left it on the old unit.
 

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debrucer

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When I put the tranny on the engine the last time there was a big click and it moved the last two inches. I knew something was wrong, and sure glad I found it now.

It only took a few minutes to get the pressure plate off the flywheel today and there were two ball bearings sitting there on the flywheel... the remains of the smashed pilot bearing with five more balls were jammed in the crank.

Now I am tearing the garage apart looking for a new bearing... everything is pulled out and I can't leave without an hour of cleanup, so I hope I can find one. I had the pilot bearing installed in the crank when I had the rotating stock balanced, so I haven't done that job before. Hopefully I will be able to install the new one without standing the engine on the front end under the hydraulic press :) (or worse, taking the crank out ).

Not a great start to my day so far. Hope yours is going better :)
 

Clip

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Easy way to do it is pack it full of grease then push an alignment tool into the bore. Hydraulic pressure works like a charm for that bearing.

Good luck!
 
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Asterix

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With the right size socket pushing on the outer race, you can gently hammer in a new pilot bearing.

I recommend bread instead of grease for removing old ones. It's not nearly as messy as grease.
 
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Clip

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With the right size socket pushing on the outer race, you can gently hammer in a new pilot bearing.

I recommend bread instead of grease for removing old ones. It's not nearly as messy as grease.
Less messy, but not low carb :)

I'll have to try the bread trick, since I'm getting ready to replace mine.
 
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adampecush

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Relocated overflow from beside the battery back to where it used to be (close, anyhow)
Installed 3M film on rear fender guards (to mimic factory application)
New alternator (not pictured)
Iridium plugs (which fixed my idle misfire that has been around for...10 years?) B16650E5-5D9F-45D3-A773-0F63D183E3A8.jpeg D453628F-31E9-4602-8417-6E08BB4F0B04.jpeg
 
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debrucer

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Easy way to do it is pack it full of grease then push an alignment tool into the bore. Hydraulic pressure works like a charm for that bearing.

Good luck!
This doesn't look like it will work for mine since I've just got the outer race still installed. Not sure what alignment tool to use, but I have searched this site and see how to do it... if the entire bearing is in place. Not sure where to go from here, but, I've got the shop torn apart and will now spend hours - looking for a new bearing and putting shit back on the shelf :( Thanks for all the tips though. I appreciate you all.
 

Clip

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This doesn't look like it will work for mine since I've just got the outer race still installed. Not sure what alignment tool to use, but I have searched this site and see how to do it... if the entire bearing is in place. Not sure where to go from here, but, I've got the shop torn apart and will now spend hours - looking for a new bearing and putting shit back on the shelf :( Thanks for all the tips though. I appreciate you all.
Forgot you said it had exploded. Typically the clutch alignment tool works well to push grease (or bread) through the inner race.

I'd think getting in there with a small cutoff wheel and being careful not to nick the crank would be a decent option if you can't find a puller to do the job.
 
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Clip

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Relocated overflow from beside the battery back to where it used to be (close, anyhow)
Installed 3M film on rear fender guards (to mimic factory application)
New alternator (not pictured)
Iridium plugs (which fixed my idle misfire that has been around for...10 years?)
How easy is it to open the overflow tank up?
 

Asterix

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This doesn't look like it will work for mine since I've just got the outer race still installed. Not sure what alignment tool to use, but I have searched this site and see how to do it... if the entire bearing is in place. Not sure where to go from here, but, I've got the shop torn apart and will now spend hours - looking for a new bearing and putting shit back on the shelf :( Thanks for all the tips though. I appreciate you all.
I'll suggest a slide hammer with small enough fingers to grab the inside lip.

Next choice is finding a steel rod that just barely fits and go with the bread/grease method. Youtube is full of examples using bread or grease to remove a pilot bearing. It should work the same with just the outer race. The key to the method is finding a rod the right diameter.
 
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debrucer

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I'll suggest a slide hammer with small enough fingers to grab the inside lip.

Next choice is finding a steel rod that just barely fits and go with the bread/grease method. Youtube is full of examples using bread or grease to remove a pilot bearing. It should work the same with just the outer race. The key to the method is finding a rod the right diameter.
Thanks @Clip and @Asterix. I see how to do the bread/grease trick and settled on wet paper towels. I used a large bolt and hammered it in first thread first, then head first. Then I got a large flat washer that fit within the race. That technique was doable, but no signs of progress. The Dremel tool is all I've got small enough to get in there... but most of my bits are Harbor Freight... and typically not much good against hardened steel.

It is now back burner. I need to have a 4x8 sheet of steel delivered, and needed to change a whole wall so I can store it until I use it. This is metal to fill in the back seat area and possibly what I will use for the engine under-cover

Ordered a new bearing from DM and also got their custom flywheel lock tab. Site says 2 to 3 days, but, pandemic warning that they are short staff noted. That gives me a week to get the race out of there.
 

adampecush

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How easy is it to open the overflow tank up?
do you mean in the new location or in general? No issues either way. This really just involved some tweaking of the existing mount, fabricating a fairly crude aluminum mount extension, and bolting it up to an alternate available location. Previously sat beside the battery which wasn't ideal.
 

Piratetip

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That outer race is pretty small.
Wouldn't take long to get through most of it with a Dremel.
A bit of impact after that would easily crack through the rest of the material.
Or a slide hammer with an inside lip to get behind it.

You will get it out one way or another ;)
 
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Asterix

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Now that I think about it more, an actual pilot bearing puller would work fine. It was worth trying other things first, though. I hate buying one-use tools, but will when it's the only way.
 

debrucer

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That outer race is pretty small.
Wouldn't take long to get through most of it with a Dremel.
A bit of impact after that would easily crack through the rest of the material.
Or a slide hammer with an inside lip to get behind it.

You will get it out one way or another ;)
I think you're right. I tried the paper towel trick for another 30 minutes or so... no noticeable movement. No worry. I'll get it. I'm just so glad that I didn't skip over it, even if it did take me six weeks to get to this point. I haven't been in a store other than the grocery for prolly five months... can't go looking for tools right now. Times like this I wish I were old tony and had a lathe... not that I don't already waste enough time :)

I've got show stoppers in about three areas, and I know that I'll have to do them, cuz nobody else would. I'll get them if I live long enough.
 

debrucer

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Less messy, but not low carb :)

I'll have to try the bread trick, since I'm getting ready to replace mine.
I'm heading back tomorrow and will concentrate on bread first, then grease. I looked at slide hammers and pilot bearing removal tools on Amazon.

The outer race is not large and I don't want another 50 buck tool that's only used once. There's still the Dremel option that I haven't tried yet.

The only bread I had two days ago was my lunch. Tomorrow I'm taking the whole loaf.
 

debrucer

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The alignment tool and the inner race of the pilot bearing:
C629A70B-DE4E-47CE-A6D2-8E343158FBC4.jpeg

The inner race fits on the alignment tool perfectly:
A4784D7B-2926-4862-B317-AC812EE0BF91.jpeg

Here's the input shaft on the transmission:
C855008B-B250-4D80-B20D-33BF3F547CE7.jpeg

Here is the inner race sliding onto the shaft. Notice that the tip of the 3rd motion shaft is tapered. The bearing race fits onto the tip of the shaft but it will not slide up as required.
5EAD2073-9FEB-4C0E-9449-536F750B685A.jpeg

Wrong size :(

64FFB6A0-D687-4EFD-8085-88A5DF2E8312.jpeg
Does not fit.

Upon disassembly I also discovered why I didn't remember using the Red Loctite... I didn't. I used ARP assembly grease on the ARP flywheel bolts and you don't use both the lube and the Loctite. Don't know why I couldn't recall that point. For the next installation though I will be using the Driftmotion lock ring... their proprietary part for securing 7M flywheel bolts. Lube and the lock ring. No red Loctite. I will still use the Blue Loctite on the pressure plate bolts (which are also ARP brand).

I brought bread today... on to work :)
 
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adampecush

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Can you provide some info on the vinyl you used? I was just looking at my tired old stock ones the other day. My paint doesn't look too bad, but those vinyl pieces, ugh
I ordered a roll 6” wide 3M scotch guard clear bra off of Amazon. It is pretty easy to work with, lots of tutorials on YouTube. I just traced and cut to size.
 
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debrucer

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Yes. Seems odder as I think about it. The clutch pressure plate, disk throw-out bearing and pilot bearing were purchased at the same time. If the bearing is wrong, and it is, the alignment tool is wrong, too. There is only one pilot bearing part number. The part numbers on the 3rd motion shaft are the same for both early and late transmissions. That shaft comes with the taper, that's not damage caused by my assembly.

I'm not getting it yet... just glad I caught it, vs. going back together that way. I will be searching receipts for a part number, and patiently waiting for my DM delivery. My bad, I guess, for not physically fitting the pilot bearing to the transmission before having the machine shop install it. He was doing the balancing... and he commented when I picked it up that the pilot bearing was the "most difficult part of the job".

I'll feel much better when this is together.
 

debrucer

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I took the inner fender liner off the left front today looking for a way through the firewall.

Ideally I would like to use both of these.

cable-pass-thru-and-terminals.jpg

Alternatively, only the positive is necessary. The ground can be relocated, too.

Realistically, While there isn't much of a clear path through, I think I can snake my 0/1 gauge wire through the existing hole.

These things are close to two inches, maybe 1 3/4", but huge.

I still haven't looked under the right front side, and I need to take it off anyway to trim away the parts that don't fit due to the body kit. I've got a new factory engine under-cover, but I'm making modifications to that, too, because of the body kit (bumper skins).

I will look at the right front one day this week. If you already know, tell me, will I find more space for these on the r/f? Or do you think there's no way to do it except to run the cable through somewhere else.
 

Clip

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Now I'm curious, I've got the transmission out and both an old alignment tool from my last build, the new alignment tool and a new pilot bearing from DM.

Washed the engine bay today, and reluctantly got the stock intercooler and oil coolers bolted up. The plan was to install a Treadstone TRV125 and bigger oil cooler in the stock locations, but shipping delays and backorders happened. Now a TRV1259 is supposed to show up soon, but I still have to figure out intercooler piping. At least my whole oil filter relocation/cooling setup will be received by tomorrow, once the block adapter shows up. Then I'll pull the bumper a second time and install both together.


 

Piratetip

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You got an old ST green swaybar too I see. :)
I painted mine black.
 
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Clip

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You got an old ST green swaybar too I see. :)
I painted mine black.
Circa 2010 maybe? Didn't realize they changed colors, looks like they're all black now? That and my Tein Flex coils are sure going to clash with the red/orange/yellow and white scheme the engine has :)
 

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little tweaks and dress up parts, hps heater hose kit (comes with the 3 hoses along teh firewall) new wiring on coolant, oil, cps etc. installed a new wideband 4.9 sensor into ecumaster black as well as new bosch knock sensors to work with it. I'll show some inside and outside pics once i get the inside all tidy up and my new tires are mounted. went with 275/35/18 front and 275/45/18 mickey tompson et streets on rear

still have a lot to do under the hood with organizing wiring and vacuum lines. i ordered another manifold to help instead of running multiple tees


supraolder.jpg supranewer.jpg
 

Clip

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Thanks! Anyone know why Toyota mounted the stock IC angled down? Just the fit/ground clearance?