What did you do to your supra today? Pics

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The Magnificent Seven
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Got my box from Driftmotion, which means my tube of FIPG and that means the stock cams went back in last night. Also, one of the simplest upgrades is going in today: DM's 7/16 exhaust studs. I swapped to these with their kit when I rebuilt my GE years ago and was so happy I did, so they're a must for this build.

The only pain was that someone already put 10mm helicoils in four of the holes, leaving the tabs and installed at different depths. Thought they'd be harder to get out but managed to remove all four pretty easily to prep for drilling to 29/64 tonight.



 

Asterix

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The 6th timing belt of its life went into the car yesterday. The operation went pretty smoothly, though the front pulley didn't just slide off due to a little corrosion. As usual, the old belt looked fine.

Also on the list was a new idler pulley, spark plugs, fan shroud, front and oil pump seals (natch), thermostat gasket, and an A/C belt.

SupraTimingBelt6.jpg
 

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That is a fantastic idea. Last time I torqued it in gear with a friend standing on the brake. I like this method.
 

sinistar_xx

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Replaced all 8 seat bolts today, as they appeared to be original and had some corrosion on them. While the seats were out, I spot-treated the mounting points on the seat rails with some rust converter and paint, as there were some rusty bits there too. Interesting (and concerning?) thing about the seat bolts is the original part number has been superseded by a new part number, and the new bolts I got from Toyota are a bit shorter than the original bolts. Seems like they are long enough for all the threads, but not sure why they'd be shorter. Anyway, I also spot treated the carpet while the seats were out. Used Chem-dry, which is my go-to carpet cleaner for stains. Since Chem-dry can be hard to find, I also use Blue Magic, which is basically the same stuff. Either is great for getting out stains, being easy on the fabric, and not leaving any bad smells or sticky residue.

Still need a master window switch though. I basically ruined mine with the last attempt to glue the broken tab, as I got a bit carried away with the glue and it ran into some bad places... :(
 

suprarx7nut

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Get ready for the next installment of way too much effort put into a retro paint job!

Valve covers done and about to get their clear coat.



I was hoping you would do something like that. I think you nailed it. Can't wait to see it back in the car and now I can't wait to paint my own 7M block!
 

debrucer

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I built this stand a couple of months ago. Preparing to run the engine on the stand, I added oil and discovered a leak. The leak was coming from a pan bolt on the inner timing belt piece... I tried to tighten and broke off the bolt. I tried to fix that, and broke the ez-out. The final fix was best not done upside down. I disconnected the engine and transmission, removed the clutch and flywheel, and put both engine and trans back on individual stands. It was late and in the dark when I rejoined the trans to the engine... and when it finally went together, it did so with a big click. I'm not comfortable with that... and while I specifically remember which loctite type I have used on the flywheel and pressure plate, I just can't remember taking those steps the second time. I'm going back in and inspect/repair. I'm not excited about it, but to make it easier, I am going to make two new stands this weekend. One for the engine, a second for the transmission... and hopefully done in such a way that an old man can do this job alone. I was out of it for three days after the fixing that oil leak. Three days, I barely moved :( <waaa, waaa, waaaa> yeah, I know :)

View attachment 84043 View attachment 84044

I picked up the required tube last Saturday. I will start cutting and welding this weekend if all goes as planned.

So much to do... there's always more....
3 weeks later... a little progress....

1914B339-1065-44B4-9EF6-05ABC3E984F9.jpeg

The plan is for these to allow the engine pilot bushing and transmission 3rd motion shaft to mate. The engine gets the red pieces with a plate at the right angle for the motor mount. Those would support the engine alone, but I'm not comfortable with doing it that way, so there will be another attachment near the front... perhaps just a "C" shaped piece resting against the front of the oil pan. I can't get to the current engine/trans stand now to measure since the car is pulled in next to it. Next six-hour day takes the car out and uses the floor space to make measurements. The current stand has 8 castors but I can't steal four of them until I put oil in the engine hoist so I can lift the engine. All my tools and jacks and I can't get anything under those 3 1/2" wheels :(got

Updated: July 13, 2020

engine-trans-stands.jpg

New stands built and engine and transmission moved. There's still a little tweaking to do to get them perfectly aligned, but this was definitely progress. Two design flaws: 1) castors on one stand interfere with the castors on the other when the two stands are in place together. They cannot swivel making moving it frustrating. 2) The wooden mounts for the engine are two far out. The original stand was 20" wide and the new stand is 22" wide - based on how I arranged the cut tube before welding.

Still... it's progress.
 
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Clip

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Got my flex hone in and deglazed the cylinders, then washed the block with Dawn. Wiped it down with carb cleaner and a final wipe with acetone, then a light coat of engine oil on all the surfaces until I start reassembly.

The shift knob and shift boot retainer showed up, but the boot retainer wouldn't fit over the shifter. I took the easy way out and tried a 3/4 drill bit in the drill press, but had to switch to the lathe. After boring it out far enough to fix the 3/4 bit fiasco, the wall got rather thin (aluminum foil) and I had to order another. In the end, the shifter is installed and looks a little goofy, but wow this thing is fun. Quieter than the SOGI shifter, I'm still not set on the combination of shifter height and shift knob. Right now it looks and feels a little "domestic"



 

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Tons of stuff done. Block loaded, oil pan painted, tried to figure out if the oil pump banjo bolt had been drilled out by the previous owner (looks like rough machining if not, anyone have a comparison?), found washers to shim the oil pump bypass then decided I wanted to cut my own spacer on the lathe, modified the oil pump driveshaft retainer for better oil feed and distribution, installed front and rear main seals, oil pump, driveshaft, brackets, sensors, coolant lines, and slightly ported the brand new downpipe flange from Driftmotion so the wastegate flow doesn't see a big edge.












 

Abe's 1987

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Tons of stuff done. Block loaded, oil pan painted, tried to figure out if the oil pump banjo bolt had been drilled out by the previous owner (looks like rough machining if not, anyone have a comparison?), found washers to shim the oil pump bypass then decided I wanted to cut my own spacer on the lathe, modified the oil pump driveshaft retainer for better oil feed and distribution, installed front and rear main seals, oil pump, driveshaft, brackets, sensors, coolant lines, and slightly ported the brand new downpipe flange from Driftmotion so the wastegate flow doesn't see a big edge.












With the awesome work you're doing on the engine paint job I would love to see a clear hood for your car. May sound dumb but you could really appreciate your work.
 
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The Magnificent Seven
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That clear hood would be awesome, I always liked the ZR1 hood that had a window in it.

Had another big day. Against the advice of the forum, I pulled my ARP head studs out of my 7M-GE that's still in the car and swapped in the ARP head bolts that I found in this engine. Maybe I'll be able to rest easier knowing that I used studs on this build, or maybe I just set myself up for a BHG on the GE. Either way, I detorqued per the manual, then removed two at a time and swapped for bolts. I never saw a comparison picture before, but had both on the bench so:



That means I got the head torqued on the stand after cleaning the MHG with acetone to remove the viton and respraying with copper gasket sealant. After that, reassembly is coming along well. Got the fuel injectors cleaned, replaced all grommets and orings and fuel rail is back on the engine as well as cam gears, oil pump gear, and other odds and ends. Tomorrow morning starts with cleaning up the intake and deciding if I want to paint that with the aluminum color engine paint.



Also saw an exhaust show up for sale that I've never seen before. Most RS*R Invidias are all stainless and styled like the Hyper Medallion, but I did see one on here a long time ago with a black painted mid section and stainless muffler. Going to be interesting to see it when it shows up.

 

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Another big day. Set out this morning with the goal of getting the lower intake mounted. Failed. Instead, the entirety of the intake and exhaust has been kerosene washed, media blasted, kerosene washed, dried, acetone wiped and painted or coated. Intake runners got wire brushed with a flex shaft which took the carbon and some of the casting flash out, a very low effort port and polish. The throttle body got special treatment with the linkage disassembly, and got dunked in the bucket of carb cleaner with great results. Also drilled out and rethreaded two broken studs, one on the head for securing an accessory and one on the manifold for one of the turbo stays.

Intake got aluminum engine enamel, exhaust and turbine housing got Techline Turbo X coating. Took me all. freaking. day to do these parts, hope they look good bolted up.















 
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Piratetip

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You should port match all intake and exhaust parts.
Since you have it apart already, match up all the gaskets and see which areas overhang.
I'd recommend it, especially on the exhaust side.
Eliminate any overhanging areas impeding flow.

I remember having to take a lot of material from the inside of turbo turbine housing.
 
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The Magnificent Seven
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Was considering that, although I blew past a post by IJ that recommended against porting something on the exhaust side. I'll have to look it up to see what I actually read. I'm all for opening everything up to breathe easier.

And since I've got it all apart, what's involved in a 57 trim upgrade to the CT? I was planning on sending this to DM but it's a recent rebuild and everything is smooth and tight. Just a different compressor wheel or is the turbine changed too?
 

Piratetip

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Yeah, leave the reversion dam at the head on the exhaust side.
I'm talking about all the gaskets after that. Same on the intake side before the head.
:D
 
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The Magnificent Seven
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Grilled out today. Baked the parts I shot last night after calling Techline this morning. Turns out they stopped selling Turbo X to the public several years ago and I'll have to go through a shop to get some more. I'll see how long this holds up, even with me having to spray twice since I didn't realize all the solids really clung to the bottom of the can AND thinking I've got glass bead or glass grit in the cabinet (not recommended by Techline for surface prep) but still came out looking pretty good. This stuff is tough, tried to clean up the mating surface on the turbine housing and took me a while with a bastard file to cut through the coating. Also reassembled the throttle body after paint and got the lower intake manifold bolted up. Think I might be using really small gaskets because it looks pretty well matched already.





 

Piratetip

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Amazing what a blast cabinet will do isn't it? :D
 

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I love the thing. Causes a lot more work with taping and prepping and cleaning after, but well worth it. That was dunking in carb cleaner, drying off, blasting, blowing off, carb cleaner again then acetone wipe followed by spraying with aluminum engine enamel. Same treatment for the rest of the intake and compressor housing, except the big pieces had to get a kero wash. I used the same paint on my NA rebuild back in 2010 or 2011, and the intake is the best looking thing under the hood right now. Held up incredibly well
 
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The Magnificent Seven
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Sure, this is the first time I've attempted this so if it goes sideways I'll let you know. After days of looking for oil pump driveshaft bearings and finally finding them out of WA, I got too scared to put them in. The oil clearances measured OK on mine and I don't have the equipment to size new bearings if I put them in and the clearances were off, so I left well enough alone. On my GE, I had the machine shop install new bearings so it would've been a first time evolution for me.

I was looking at the Technico needle bearing modded retainer and the Beech/Punch Out modded retainer during this time too. Since my thrust was practically nothing on this driveshaft I probably could have let it go, but read this post by sixpack from a long time ago where he explained it.


The idea is to collect what oil might be running down the timing cover, wicking into the top of the retainer and getting redistributed at one of those three grooves. Sixpack made a point to note that the grooves stayed within the collar so oil would stay captured and hopefully keep the thrust surface lubed.

I took a diamond burr at an angle and hit each of the three grooves gently, then came back on the top backside and dug in a little more, rolling the tool through the collar to make a twisting groove that will pull oil to the front and get collected by the grooves. Then I deburred each edge with a Spyderco triangular sharpening stone prior to reassembly.

Hope it helps, or at least doesn't hurt. I could've just made three grit traps that'll eat the spacer quickly, who knows!
 
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Painfully slow night tonight. I'm waiting on parts to ship but I did get my replacement shift boot retainer in. Took quite a bit of machining to make everything work. Had to turn the shift lever down, then had to widen the groove for my Sparco boot, then had to hand file the top of the thing to clock the shift knob pattern the right way. Lots of cutting, trying, and cutting some more.




 

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More painting, and got my box from RockAuto with timing belt, tensioner, water pump and thermostat. Got the 3000 pipe, lower timing cover, and exhaust heat shields done. Still have the water neck and thermostat housing to spray but at least they're clean and waiting.



 

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Holy cow, it showed up. I ordered something from Croooober, paid an exorbitant shipping cost, and an RS*R Invidia exhaust I've never seen showed up in 48 hours once they shipped it. Got the HKS taken off, noting a few pinholes and thin spots, and bolted this up. Almost took longer to unwrap it than it did to install - packaging was excellent consisting of 4 layers each alternating cardboard and bubble wrap, with the hangers, flanges and tip wrapped in a other layer of cardboard. No tape touched the exhaust itself. I definitely won't hesitate to buy from Japan again.






 
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Piratetip

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Cool.!
Probably won't see another one of those exhausts in the states.
 

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Going to perform window repairs on this guy, another exhaust I've never seen a duplicate of. I love it, can't let it die this easy. At least 10 years of living under a lowered car has resulted in some thin spots.






 

Zazzn

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Tons of stuff done. Block loaded, oil pan painted, tried to figure out if the oil pump banjo bolt had been drilled out by the previous owner (looks like rough machining if not, anyone have a comparison?), found washers to shim the oil pump bypass then decided I wanted to cut my own spacer on the lathe, modified the oil pump driveshaft retainer for better oil feed and distribution, installed front and rear main seals, oil pump, driveshaft, brackets, sensors, coolant lines, and slightly ported the brand new downpipe flange from Driftmotion so the wastegate flow doesn't see a big edge.












Do your self a favor, go buy a harbor freight powdercoating gun, for 50 bucks and the small blasting cabinet with some glass bead and have at that bracket and make it look new again after powder coating and blasting it. Looks SOOO good after doing all my brackets.
 
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The Magnificent Seven
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Do your self a favor, go buy a harbor freight powdercoating gun, for 50 bucks and the small blasting cabinet with some glass bead and have at that bracket and make it look new again after powder coating and blasting it. Looks SOOO good after doing all my brackets.
You mean this bracket? It got the better of me this weekend so I took it off, tossed it in the blast cabinet with the AC compressor bracket, turbo and intake braces.

 

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Duplicolor engine paint - the last build it held up reasonably well so that's what I hit it with again.

Caught me in the middle of this:




 

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Officially the dumbest member here. Tore apart one of my small HKS mufflers on the exhaust and rebuilt the thing with new perf tube. Now another small one, then the big guy.






 
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Piratetip

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Nice work, I approve.
Not too many people would revive an old part like this.