What did you do to your supra today? Pics

debrucer

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Got the rear pads and rotors done today. The plan was to also fix the parking brake, as the lever has been going all the way up with no bite. Was hoping to just have to adjust the shoes, but as you can see in the last pic, baby needs a new pair of shoes. And some day I will deal with those rusty calipers...

View attachment 84013
View attachment 84014

View attachment 84015
That's a dramatic change. Wish they'd stay like that :)

My replacement jack stands came in this past week. I took 8 back to Harbor Freight, no receipt, no questions asked, they gave me a gift card for $170. They were out of stock on new jack stands, big surprise. I ordered (4) Big Red 6-ton off Amazon... $118, prime freight free. They are just like the old ones except they have a couple of new holes and a pin.

If anybody is still using the old stands, Google about the recall. I feel lucky to be alive.
 
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sinistar_xx

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That's a dramatic change. Wish they'd stay like that :)

My replacement jack stands came in this past week. I took 8 back to Harbor Freight, no receipt, no questions asked, they gave me a gift card for $170. They were out of stock on new jack stands, big surprise. I ordered (4) Big Red 6-ton off Amazon... $118, prime freight free. They are just like the old ones except they have a couple of new holes and a pin.

If anybody is still using the old stands, Google about the recall. I feel lucky to be alive.
The car originally got much of its corrosion while living in Wisconsin and NY, so Colorado should be kinder.

Were all the jack stands you took back the specific model numbers for the recall? I think there's just two specific models, but curious if they're taking back similar ones too, as I have a newer pair of 3-ton jacks from them that had a part/model number not specified in the recall and I'm not sure I want to hang on to them.
 

debrucer

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The car originally got much of its corrosion while living in Wisconsin and NY, so Colorado should be kinder.

Were all the jack stands you took back the specific model numbers for the recall? I think there's just two specific models, but curious if they're taking back similar ones too, as I have a newer pair of 3-ton jacks from them that had a part/model number not specified in the recall and I'm not sure I want to hang on to them.
I went in at opening hour two weeks ago with 8 stands in a cart. There was a man ahead of me with two more. They didn't want my membership card or even my phone number. They looked and didn't question anything. I think the recalled products were for sale for 13 years. I suspect that even if yours are newer, if there's no pin, it's dangerous. Makes me sick to think of all the time I spent under the car on those stands. I'll never use another one without the pin. I doubt they'll turn you away.
 
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trofimovich

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Put an additional automatic transmission radiator.
From an old mazda air conditioner radiator.
Engine water temperature decreased from 194f to 176f.
I removed the factory air conditioner because I don’t use it. And the oil pump will replace the air conditioner compressor.
 

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debrucer

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There are two of my Speeduino ECUs. Difference is basically how it attaches to the car.

9EB5A74D-E626-4E0B-8491-BABB99C692BF.jpeg

They have until now ridden piggy-back on an Arduino Mega 2560. That's an 8-bit machine, and it does the job, but I wanted to do something even more different, and I'm replacing that unit with a Teensy 3.6.

I got the gerber files from the project and the free copy of Kicad. I was able to review and make changes, although this board was version "one", there were three "private" versions over the past three years... and this one works with either Teensy version: 3.5 or 3.6. I saw no need to change the label and possibly corrupt the zip.

8F924C2D-2275-4887-897D-3A0A67444C91.png

Ordered from China, or should I say, 深圳市嘉立创科技发展有限公司 ? The process was smooth. They confirmed my gerber zip was fine, and they took my money. It was looking like 2 to 3 days to produce and 30 to 35 days to deliver. At checkout they changed that, doubled the shipping, and quoted 2 to 4 days shipping. Total, a week? With Corona, we'll see.

Product specs of the Teensy 3.6:

180 MHz ARM Cortex-M4 with Floating Point Unit 1M Flash, 256K RAM, 4K EEPROM Microcontroller Chip MK66FX1M0VMD18 USB High Speed (480 Mbit/sec) Port 2 CAN Bus Ports 32 General Purpose DMA Channels 22 PWM Outputs 4 I2C Ports 11 Touch Sensing Inputs 62 I/O Pins (42 breadboard friendly) 25 Analog Inputs to 2 ADCs with 13 bits resolution 2 Analog Outputs (DACs) with 12 bit resolution 22 PWM Outputs USB Full Speed (12 Mbit/sec) Port Ethernet mac, capable of full 100 Mbit/sec speed Native (4 bit SDIO) micro SD card port I2S Audio Port, 4 Channel Digital Audio Input & Output 14 Hardware Timers Cryptographic Acceleration Unit Random Number Generator CRC Computation Unit 6 Serial Ports (2 with FIFO & Fast Baud Rates) 3 SPI Ports (1 with FIFO) 4 I2C Ports Real Time Clock

teensy-3.6.jpg

There's no big advantage to the upgrade, except that it's neat. This adds the possibility for the CAN bus, but the Supra hardly needs that :)

It still won't do sequential for a six-cylinder, yet.

There is a guy who has done it on a BMW M52 turbo, and he's using the standard Speeduino code with minor modifications described as "basically unmodified code. Just has the pin mapping added for this." His solution went with a different chip, too, just not the Teensy, as I am. That's new info in the past couple of weeks, so as details come out, perhaps I'm positioned for sequential with Speeduino.

His solution, btw, requires two boards and the higher-performing MCU. He's also got an 8x8 version in the works, and when asked about his, he said that "Josh has a version coming, too". Josh is father-speeduino. He presented the idea in 2012 and remains at the center of everything today. I hadn't heard about it, and my boards are pretty much built. There may be a new board, but I think that once you get the bug, learn the tools and terminology, that you "come out" with your own board... a 6x6 for a Supra... one thinks....

I'd long-since made the decision to run 3 channels and wasted spark, but I also wasn't going to mess with the stock coils, and I still might not initially, but I suspect COP using the ls300 coils will become necessary (e.g., I will want them).

I also have to design a board to go from the Speedy to a (new, replicated) stock/OEM ECU connector.

3C1D739C-E30D-44A1-B281-E46D75533B8E.jpeg

The Speeduino Online Documentation lists the part number for "Supra Mk3" with no distinction, so their part number is the late version.

@Piratetip just supplied both the part number and the part... a few minutes after posting, actually, before finished posting.

And I've sent the info through Slack, to Josh, who has already updated the online info. Petty slick. Thanks @Piratetip

That's just where I am today. I have to design the board and create the gerbers, and that's far different than just opening Kicad and clicking on load gerbers. Kicad is not intuitive particularly if you're not familiar with industry terminology.

I'm learning :)

Later,
David
 
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SupraDrew

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Gotta love when you install a nice shinny new part, but it makes the rest of the parts around it look so dirty.
Rear Dif.jpg
Next will be the break-in miles. Excited to see how it feels. Nick does good work!
 

debrucer

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I presume that this is for me :) Thank you. Nick sent two plus 3 male plugs... 25 bucks shipped. Nice that these guys have stock, but, 40 bucks each, plus shipping. Thank you again @Piratetip. Thanks, too, @Z06gette :)

Interesting aside... posted in the Speeduino forum, and two people tell me it won't work. The project founder says it will. I have to keep remembering, it's about the journey... it's about the journey....
 
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debrucer

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I built this stand a couple of months ago. Preparing to run the engine on the stand, I added oil and discovered a leak. The leak was coming from a pan bolt on the inner timing belt piece... I tried to tighten and broke off the bolt. I tried to fix that, and broke the ez-out. The final fix was best not done upside down. I disconnected the engine and transmission, removed the clutch and flywheel, and put both engine and trans back on individual stands. It was late and in the dark when I rejoined the trans to the engine... and when it finally went together, it did so with a big click. I'm not comfortable with that... and while I specifically remember which loctite type I have used on the flywheel and pressure plate, I just can't remember taking those steps the second time. I'm going back in and inspect/repair. I'm not excited about it, but to make it easier, I am going to make two new stands this weekend. One for the engine, a second for the transmission... and hopefully done in such a way that an old man can do this job alone. I was out of it for three days after the fixing that oil leak. Three days, I barely moved :( <waaa, waaa, waaaa> yeah, I know :)

5BD0D7AB-704D-46DB-8944-DD4073AAD9A2.jpeg 5FC8E7D4-370C-48AD-9F16-F9DD0CFFAE05.jpeg

I picked up the required tube last Saturday. I will start cutting and welding this weekend if all goes as planned.

So much to do... there's always more....
 
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Enraged

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I think this is the yellow plug ECU side connector:
https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/172319-7/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKmVkeGl/GZ2gEYGkbWMfkRE=
or
or in stock here:

wire side connectors:

pins: https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/?qs=u4fy/sgLU9M4vK6q%2B9kpbg==

now you'll have to confirm all of these yourself, as the research I did on this was years ago.

edit: ok, I went through a bin I had in the closet, and here's more info:

The connectors are TE Connectivity Pulse Lock. I ordered these from Allied Electronics back in 2013, and they plug into the ECU connector that I stripped off of an old 88 Turbo yellow plug ECU.

24pin:
Pulse Lock Series 3.7mm Pitch 24 Way 2 Row Male Straight PCB Housing
PN 172317-7 https://www.alliedelec.com/product/te-connectivity/172317-7/70283546/

10pin:
Pulse Lock Series 4.6mm Pitch 10 Way 1 Row Male Straight PCB Housing
PN 172315-7 https://www.alliedelec.com/product/te-connectivity/172315-7/70283537/

18pin:
Pulse Lock Series 3.7mm Pitch 18 Way 1 Row Male Straight PCB Housing
PN 172316-7 https://www.alliedelec.com/product/te-connectivity/172316-7/70283538/

pins:
"Pulse Lock PCB Connector Contact; Female; Crimp; Gold Plating 20 - 22 AWG "
PN 170352-2 https://www.alliedelec.com/product/te-connectivity/170352-2/70284544/

alternate source for the ECU side:
PULSE LOCK 52P CAP ASSY TIN
PN 172319-1

I have 1 ECU connector, 2 each of the 10 and 24 wire connectors, 1 of the 18, and around 100 pins. I was planning to build my own plug and play harness, but plans changed, and I don't need these anymore, so if anyone wants to buy them, PM me.

If you want to buy your own, Octopart is the best for finding stock: https://octopart.com/
 
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debrucer

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I think this is the yellow plug ECU side connector:
https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/172319-7/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKmVkeGl/GZ2gEYGkbWMfkRE=
or
or in stock here:

wire side connectors:

pins: https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/?qs=u4fy/sgLU9M4vK6q%2B9kpbg==

now you'll have to confirm all of these yourself, as the research I did on this was years ago.

edit: ok, I went through a bin I had in the closet, and here's more info:

The connectors are TE Connectivity Pulse Lock. I ordered these from Allied Electronics back in 2013, and they plug into the ECU connector that I stripped off of an old 88 Turbo yellow plug ECU.

24pin:
Pulse Lock Series 3.7mm Pitch 24 Way 2 Row Male Straight PCB Housing
PN 172317-7 https://www.alliedelec.com/product/te-connectivity/172317-7/70283546/

10pin:
Pulse Lock Series 4.6mm Pitch 10 Way 1 Row Male Straight PCB Housing
PN 172315-7 https://www.alliedelec.com/product/te-connectivity/172315-7/70283537/

18pin:
Pulse Lock Series 3.7mm Pitch 18 Way 1 Row Male Straight PCB Housing
PN 172316-7 https://www.alliedelec.com/product/te-connectivity/172316-7/70283538/

pins:
"Pulse Lock PCB Connector Contact; Female; Crimp; Gold Plating 20 - 22 AWG "
PN 170352-2 https://www.alliedelec.com/product/te-connectivity/170352-2/70284544/

alternate source for the ECU side:
PULSE LOCK 52P CAP ASSY TIN
PN 172319-1

I have 1 ECU connector, 2 each of the 10 and 24 wire connectors, 1 of the 18, and around 100 pins. I was planning to build my own plug and play harness, but plans changed, and I don't need these anymore, so if anyone wants to buy them, PM me.

If you want to buy your own, Octopart is the best for finding stock: https://octopart.com/
Nice! Glad it was work you'd done, as I have the connector coming before I had finished posting. @Piratetip to the rescue.

Thank you though. I certainly appreciate it, and probably not bad to get it viewed again :)
 

sinistar_xx

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Aside from reinstalling my reshaped front lip as I described in my post, perhaps the more gratifying thing I did on my Supra today was to diagnose the metal clinking sound coming from the right side of the car. It was the front passenger side brake cable bouncing around loose in the bracket hole. Problem fixed with a couple of zip ties. Interestingly, the driver side also had zip ties in the same place, so I guess the problem has happened more than once. And while looking into that, I noticed the ABS cable was positioned in a bad place (passenger side again) where it could get pinched. Wasn't able to remove the rusty bolt for its bracket today though, so maybe another time.
 

debrucer

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Aside from reinstalling my reshaped front lip as I described in my post, perhaps the more gratifying thing I did on my Supra today was to diagnose the metal clinking sound coming from the right side of the car. It was the front passenger side brake cable bouncing around loose in the bracket hole. Problem fixed with a couple of zip ties. Interestingly, the driver side also had zip ties in the same place, so I guess the problem has happened more than once. And while looking into that, I noticed the ABS cable was positioned in a bad place (passenger side again) where it could get pinched. Wasn't able to remove the rusty bolt for its bracket today though, so maybe another time.
My front brake lines (after-market) are steel braided and have buit-in brackets. It was puzzling how they could fit and I left them installed but unattached in the center. I’m thinking today that zip ties will be the answer. I’ve never heard a noise as car hasn’t been driven since 2006. (Damn! That’s too long not to be finished - so much to do). I definitely will revisit this. Thanks for the reminder :)
 

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So I replaced my CT26 on my 60k mile car with a 57 trim i picked up used for next to nothing. It had some noticeable play before install, but I installed anyways... Well 12 PSI and low oil caused it so touch the housing and basically fail.

Moving forward replaced it with a Bert built billet 57 with 9 blade exhaust wheel. :) Going to do a spearco tonight and install ARP studs.

IMG_20200624_230749.jpg
 

sinistar_xx

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My front brake lines (after-market) are steel braided and have buit-in brackets. It was puzzling how they could fit and I left them installed but unattached in the center. I’m thinking today that zip ties will be the answer. I’ve never heard a noise as car hasn’t been driven since 2006. (Damn! That’s too long not to be finished - so much to do). I definitely will revisit this. Thanks for the reminder :)
Everytime I see you mention the fact that you haven't driven your Supra since 2006, I am a little sad for you. What's the ETA for getting it back on the road at this point? I hope it's soon.
 
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debrucer

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Everytime I see you mention the fact that you haven't driven your Supra since 2006, I am a little sad for you. What's the ETA for getting it back on the road at this point? I hope it's soon.
It’s been close for years. At the same time, it’s so far away. The logistics of doing certain jobs and my desire to do them right keep getting in the way.

I’m currently working on the ECU and wiring, the sensors on crank and cam, and a couple of other mods in that area.

Of course, the stand-alone is a frivolous if I never get it running. The last time I mounted the engine and transmission there was a snap that’s unexplained as the two went together. Then there’s the lack of memory of completing the loctite application and torque setting of pressure plate and flywheel. It’s got to come apart again to redo that process correctly.

I come close to giving up at times. Probably better to die trying than to give up.

It comes up for SMOG testing again in a few months... and that’s hard to do with things in this state.

lots of loose ends. I hate doing any job that is just a cover up. There will be progress this year, but probably not driving until next.

Don’t be sad. The trip has been and remains great! Thanks though for the comments. I appreciate this site very much.
David
 

debrucer

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Everytime I see you mention the fact that you haven't driven your Supra since 2006, I am a little sad for you. What's the ETA for getting it back on the road at this point? I hope it's soon.
A previous attempt to build a hot car was attempted while it was still a daily driver. It was a 1977 Triumph TR-7 that I put a 1983 Buick 231cu V6 and T700-R4 automatic... along with around 25K. 4-barrel carb, custom headers, stainless steel exhaust, Engine from a brand-new crashed Buick and trans from a station-wagon, so there were no computers... I think the engine had 8 possible ECUs, and the trans had 11 to choose from... So I paid AAMCO to put in a BW valve body kit, and treated it like a stick. It was fast, and it was reliable, but, the roof was bare metal and I used to swear that I could hear it rusting outside from the bedroom (. In 1991 I was diagnosed with multiple-sclerosis, and with body numb from the neck down for three months, I gave the car away. Unfortunately, he stripped it for the engine and I never heard about it again. You might say that I vowed to build something nice without it being a daily driver... to take my time, get as many parts as I can when I could afford them, keep her inside, and do her right.

I burn a hole in the floor when I welded the brackets for the anti-submarine belts to the floor. The welds were decent, but the hole needs to be repaired. The hole is at a dirty spot where sound proofing was taken up,, and on the other side, undercoating. All that has to be clean to weld a proper panel in place, or even build up the metal with welding rod... and that mean all that cleaning, after taking the carpet out -- carpet that is only half way back in. I was temped to stick a patch there, like fiberglass or epoxy, and just be done with it. Reality, I can't do that. I have never intentionally short cut a step on this... that doesn't mean I've gotten them all right, but I've taken the steps, gone through the motions, attempted to get her right.

So I drag, for multiple reasons, but, I'm always on it, or some component. Right now, I am learning to use Kicad to build a custom circuit board to get between my Speeduino and the ECU pinout of a stock ECU. Kicad is like a new driver's license, you get your license, you want to drive. My only CAD requirement is the mentioned adapter, but there is an upgrade path from the 8-bit MEGA 2560 MPU to a 32-bit Teensy MPU... and it plugs in to the Speeduino identically. I had boards made from the project/community Gerber files, and I've learned to solder surface mounted devices (SMDs). Now, I'll never make a living doing that... my eyes are old, my hands shaky :) But, I can do it.

It's a bit of a leap to jump from this Arduino + shield arrangement completely to a custom board that incorporates the Teensy MPU directly... and while we're at it, consider the possibility of expanding to six-channels, instead the 3 out of 4 I am using now... I've got to investigate the logistics of creating this board, and determine if the existing software would support it. Not a question I directly ask anyone, as I want to research an answer, even if the answer is no.

It does seem that as much as "sequential" is stated as desirable, the alternatives aren't really that bad either. So I may screw around for months with this new toy, KiCad. That doesn't necessarily get me closer to driving, but, mostly, I'm having fun.

Somewhere along the line the best advice I got on the MS diagnosis was "go until you can't go... rest until you can go again. The 10-hour day I put in attaching the trans to the engine was one of those days. The next three days I could barely move. Half days don't work well when you've got to unload and reload the garage. Tomorrow is a full-day. The car will see the sunshine tomorrow because I've got to do the fabrication job that I planned for last Saturday.

Yeah. Don't be sad. I'm fine where I'm at, doing what I'm doing... I hope it's not parted out when I'm gone, but prefer it be finished so there's no reason to do that.
 
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Clip

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Finally finished getting all the valve components back in last night after days of removal, cleaning, lapping, more cleaning, tool buying, parts ordering, some more cleaning and two days of reassembly. Carbon scraped, valves lapped, Comp 975 springs installed and now waiting on the cams:





 
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Piratetip

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Very nice!
Take the time to do things right and it will reward you later!

What cams are you going with?
 

Clip

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Very nice!
Take the time to do things right and it will reward you later!

What cams are you going with?
Just going back with the stock cams, I've got them on the bench waiting for their turn to be cleaned. The past few nights I've been taking it slow with 24 of everything to do. Hopefully now that they're all in work will progress more quickly until I get to the part where more paint has to dry. Sandblasted these followed by lots and lots of cleaning:



 

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debrucer

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I've never done it personally but I know you can do non op in CA, I just think once you do get it running you have to pay whatever fees that have built up.

Thanks. It was non-op for several years and they wouldn't let me put a tag on it until it was smogged... and I couldn't go to a smog station without a tag. Catch-22. I wanted it licensed, registered and insured so that I could legally take it for a spin as I get around the block... and I DO hope to do that sometime. I got it together enough, original exhaust and all that stuff, and got it smogged, then put it back to how she was... except with tag and insurance :) It's coming up on two years since, and time to do something again. I've gotten rid of the old exhaust, and I'll never put it together that way again... Going non-op and it'd be for sure I'd never finish :( <sigh>

I'm here today... the car is 3/4 of the way out the door. I'm going to cut some steel and maybe do a little welding... humm, or take a nap :)
 

Piratetip

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I need to start another thread.
" What did you do with someone else's supra today"

I find myself working on others parts and not my own much anymore.
Thankfully mine gets driven quite a bit though, I have a long list of to-do.
Someday...
Lol
 

debrucer

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I need to start another thread.
" What did you do with someone else's supra today"

I find myself working on others parts and not my own much anymore.
Thankfully mine gets driven quite a bit though, I have a long list of to-do.
Someday...
Lol
If I didn't know better, I'd say that sounds like an excuse :)
 

Piratetip

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Yeah you are probably right.

I honestly find myself enjoying helping others with their projects more than finalizing my own.
Odd, I know....

The car is still really fun to drive though!
Totally functional, just little stuff I need to change/modify.
Will get to it eventually.

Hey you are the one taking naps instead of working on the car!
hehe
 
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debrucer

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Yeah you are probably right.

I honestly find myself enjoying helping others with their projects more than finalizing my own.
Odd, I know....

The car is still really fun to drive though!
Totally functional, just little stuff I need to change/modify.
Will get to it eventually.

Hey you are the one taking naps instead of working on the car!
hehe
You need a vacation. San Diego is nice this (any) time of year. I wouldn't recommend anyone getting on a plane right now though :(
 

Piratetip

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Oh vacations. Don't get me started on that. Lol
 

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Allow me to unveil the (almost) finished product, my tribute to the classic Toyota racing livery and Ivan Stewart:




Now to put everything back on it and hide it deep in the engine bay where only I'll know it exists
That is probably the coolest thing I've seen on the supra-related forums in a long time. VERY COOL!
 
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Clip

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North Carolina
That is probably the coolest thing I've seen on the supra-related forums in a long time. VERY COOL!
Thanks! Had a lot of time on my hands with the state of the world. Still deciding on how to match the valve covers and oil pan to it. Should be very interesting once I'm done. One of the fun parts was cutting masking tape to size on the lathe since there wasn't any 1/4" available locally and I wanted to get started(and a pic of setting up the lines):