What did you do to your supra today? Pics

A70nut

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It seems that by memory I have read something before that thanks to the pickup and oiling design on a 7m the number 2 rod bearing is the first to spin? Any other signs of oil starvation?
 

suprajim54

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It seems that by memory I have read something before that thanks to the pickup and oiling design on a 7m the number 2 rod bearing is the first to spin? Any other signs of oil starvation?
No other signs that's I've seen so far. Gonna do some more digging into it this weekend. Part of me just wants to run emery cloth over the journal, replace bearings and drop it back in for now. This motor has been bored .040 over, so I don't think the block has any more rebuilds left in it. It was purchased cheap ($500) from someone that said all the proper work had been done during rebuild, but he never put it in his car or started it (lost his job and ran out of money). Probe pistons, Eagle Rods and ARP hardware were in it, so I just assumed it was all good. I was doing an auto to R154 swap last year, so I decided to drop this engine in at the same time. All was fine for the first 1,000 miles, until it wasn't.

I'm not giving up on the 7M just yet. I've got another motor on the garage floor that I can rebuild, too. Maybe once I pay off my Tacoma, I'll start looking at JZ swaps.
 
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suprajim54

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I pulled off #5 rod cap to see what size bearings were on the crank. I found a sliver of metal was starting to eat into that bearing too.
IMG_20200214_125616.jpg
Oil pump looked ok internally and i dont see metal anywhere but the bottom end. But it did have some stuff on the pickup screen.
20200213_202224.jpg
20200213_173902.jpg
I'm gonna pull the crank out this weekend and see if i can take it to a shop to get cleaned, polished and sized for bearings.
 

debrucer

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This scares the hell out of me :( since I think I've done all the right stuff on my engine rebuild. I'm talking over years. This looks to me like a case of somebody not cleaning their block after machine work... not pulling all the right plugs...

Here's a post with a lot of good tips... including one about trapped, hidden metal shavings....

Here's a link http://www.supramania.com/forum/threads/7m-assembly-tips.5631/
 

suprajim54

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I can't find metal anywhere but the bottom end, but the rod and main bearings were all showing some scoring. Here's the rod bearings and journals.
IMG_20200214_191836.jpg IMG_20200214_191307.jpg
Mains (minus #4, couldnt get cap off easily) #5 has some metal on the journal
IMG_20200214_222720.jpg
Maybe there wasn't enough assembly lube used during the rebuild or it dried up while it sat for a year after i bought it? Last year, i pulled off the pan and installed a new oil pump shimmed with washers, AZ oil line and resealed the pan. I guess i should've inspected it closer.

BTW, I hope you guys don't mind me posting here. I don't want to clog up the thread, but figure any action on the forum is welcome.
 
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sinistar_xx

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File this under "what did you fail to do to your Supra today". Got a set of spring compressors and took my first crack at trying to remove the hat off the strut they were on (shipped to me that way, so no opportunity to try and remove the top nut while still mounted in the car). But ran into the problem where the shock shaft just spins around and there is no notch in the stud on top for an allen wrench. I tried flipping one of the compressors around so it could act as a counter force, but that didn't work too well and I was afraid of breaking the compressor tool. A friend recommended backing off on the spring compression so the spring would put force on the hat, so I suppose I'll try that next. What doesn't help though is that the table the vise is mounted on is not bolted to the floor, so it's also a bit wobbly when trying things like this.

supra spring strut.jpeg
 

alcyon

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File this under "what did you fail to do to your Supra today". Got a set of spring compressors and took my first crack at trying to remove the hat off the strut they were on (shipped to me that way, so no opportunity to try and remove the top nut while still mounted in the car). But ran into the problem where the shock shaft just spins around and there is no notch in the stud on top for an allen wrench. I tried flipping one of the compressors around so it could act as a counter force, but that didn't work too well and I was afraid of breaking the compressor tool. A friend recommended backing off on the spring compression so the spring would put force on the hat, so I suppose I'll try that next. What doesn't help though is that the table the vise is mounted on is not bolted to the floor, so it's also a bit wobbly when trying things like this.

View attachment 83084
Use a locking grip plier to clamp the shaft from under the spring. If you are changing the shocks and gonna throw the old ones anyway..
 
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sinistar_xx

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Thanks for the tip. Yeah, planning to toss the shocks and just keep the springs. I will need to get that type of plier though. I suppose I could also try moving the whole thing down and putting the hat in the vise jaws instead of the shock tube.
 

sinistar_xx

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Okay, success with the spring removal. I had my doubts, but a combination of a PB Blaster soak and locking pliers made quick work of it. 3 more to go.

supra strut done.jpg
 
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Piratetip

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Pulled the Supra out of garage storage, put it back on insurance.
Put a new LN2 AGM battery in, checked out a few other things.
Aired the tires back down to normal psi and went on a short drive tonite.
Fun fun car, miss it after driving the DD all winter.
Didn't see any issues, all normal.
Driving it to work as much as possible now again!
Gotta put some miles down on it.
 

Piratetip

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Don't know who remembers but I was looking for 1 front Tokico illumina shock to complete my set of 3 awhile back. (That I spent months locating)
Finally found that 1 front shock, 2 years later....!
Plus it is a pair!
Woo!

Now I have 2 complete sets of new old stock Tokico Illumina TEMS shocks :D
One set already on the car, one backup set in storage.

 

sinistar_xx

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Since the stock exhaust was completely rust-welded at the connections, I had a shop install the HKS LET-T16 exhaust. Although, I can't really provide good feedback on how it sounds and performs yet, because since I also asked that the downpipe gaskets be replaced that the same time, that introduced a new can of worms in the rusty system. While the installer was able to get the nuts to back off a bit, he didn't think he could get them off fully without breaking the manifold studs, so we decided to button that back up and address that another day. However, that attempt jostled things enough that now there's a horrible, VW-like sound coming from the DP to manifold connection upon acceleration.

Also, the since the new magnaflow cat was a bit longer than the stock cat, the HKS portion of the exhaust could not line up properly, so he had to shorten and re-weld some of the piping on the cat itself.

So the downpipe gasket problem will have to wait for a while. If I'm reading the exhaust schematic correctly, the dp to manifold studs can be replaced on their own, if necessary.
 

A-to-the-J

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I remembered mine ;)
^^This.

I went into my garage to look at it and saw a 997 Turbo instead. I got sad, got in my 997 and pretended I was back in my Supra. I even made noises like Leo did.
 

yhatzee89

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Sorry I'm super late to the post, but that's a sweet dash! Where did you get it from?
came factory in my limited

That's a digidash. They're rare, but one pops up every once in a while. From what I've read, they're a bitch to wire in properly. They look pretty sick once they're done though.
there is a guy whose done it, but it’s an EXTREMELY difficult fabrication process

Its a left hand drive car. These were stock in Japan. I am guessing his car is a 1J he had imported.
bingo

I just bought a set of truck lights also. I haven't started hooking them up yet, but I thought they were plug and play.
ive used a set of knock off trucklites off Amazon with good results, name brand trucklites should be plugNplay and not need the polarity to be reversed unlike my knock offs
 

Asterix

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Today I drove my Supra home from the body shop! 5 months of work and it looks sooo shiny! Pictures to follow. I hasn't looked this good in decades.
 
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SupraTrbo89

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Today I installed a Cs short throw shifter I bought off someone in the UK. The throws feel a little shorter but not as short as I would have thought. I have been running a stock shifter with the SOGI shortened stick height that came with the car when I bought it. for the past 15 years. I will say the Cs shifts smoother than the SOGI hack stick but I think that's due to the newer shifter bushings. I am going to miss the look of the old set up as the Cs shifter is so tall.



Also, my Cs short shifter did not come with 2 metal pieces I have seen in pics of this shifter. The two pieces I am talking about are almost like two half circles. Upper left corner of the last pic below. Are they not needed?

Cs shifter.PNG Cs shifter 2.PNG Cs parts.PNG
 
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Piratetip

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Finally got around to verifing the 3 TEMS controllers I've got work for the MA70.
Installing 1 for now then decide later which I want to keep.

Might end up keeping one of the smaller Soarer TEMS units, I like the design better than the MKIII one.
Need to design and 3d print an adapter housing to fit in the stock location first.
 

figgie

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created my 3d model for the transmission adapter... now to get it 3d printed to see if it works, if it does, then to work on the engine side, line them up, 3d print them to verify and if it works, CNC time.
View media item 47
 

sinistar_xx

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...aaand two months later, after getting the HKS turbo catback exhaust installed, the bad gaskets for the down pipe to exhaust manifold have been replaced (and a stripped stud) so I'm finally able to hear how the HKS sounds without the DP leak drowning it out. Sounds GREAT. I was a little worried that at best I'd just barely be able to tell the difference from stock, but it has just the amount of increased volume and exhaust note I was hoping for. Not too loud, but loud enough now that the 7M-GE's output has some personality. There IS a bit of a drone, however, but nothing I can't live with. And no, no negative impact on performance that I can't tell (for those concerned about backpressure with the NA engine).

And last weekend I replaced a TEMS actuator up front that had some broken wires due to being baked stiff by years of engine heat. I will try to repair that wiring and save that part, but I had the spare and wanted to get it working.

Supra HKS muffler 5-11-2020_800x600.jpg
 
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Another MkIII

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I returned to the Supra game after a couple year hiatus and bought some parts off another member so that I can start my engine build.

-AM3
 

Asterix

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After replacing a few side marker light bulbs, my Soup passed VA safety inspection yet again. Still my daily driver, and will be as long as possible.
 

sinistar_xx

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After getting the exhaust sorted out, the next best thing I'm excited to have fixed up is the busted bolster seam that's been present on the driver side seat ever since I got my Supra. Today, I got it back from being professionally fixed and I'm very pleased with the results.

Question though: in the last pic, what exactly is the function of that rail-type part highlighted in red? One end just seems to slide into the inner side rail connected to the seat, and then as you can see, the other end is bolted to the transmission hump. The part just slid out when I had the whole seat out of the car, and when I reinserted it, I wasn't sure if I was missing something about how it should be connected to the seat, or what it does for that matter. Also, the locking nut on the bolt for it dropped into the underside of the carpet, so I'm gonna need another one of those...

EDIT:
After looking here, it appears to be the "front seat belt inner anchor," but the seat belt receiver is bolted onto the seat itself, so I'm still a little confused as to how it somehow anchors that, especially when the front end doesn't seem to bolt onto anything and just slides in like I said.

seat repair compare.JPG

seat repair 1_800.jpg

IMG-9590.jpg
 
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Turbo Cargaryen

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Today I started my supra as it hadn’t been started in 2 weeks. I will probably refresh all the gaskets and seals as soon as I’m done swapping a new transmission into the AE86.
 

Dave 1jz

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After getting the exhaust sorted out, the next best thing I'm excited to have fixed up is the busted bolster seam that's been present on the driver side seat ever since I got my Supra. Today, I got it back from being professionally fixed and I'm very pleased with the results.

Question though: in the last pic, what exactly is the function of that rail-type part highlighted in red? One end just seems to slide into the inner side rail connected to the seat, and then as you can see, the other end is bolted to the transmission hump. The part just slid out when I had the whole seat out of the car, and when I reinserted it, I wasn't sure if I was missing something about how it should be connected to the seat, or what it does for that matter. Also, the locking nut on the bolt for it dropped into the underside of the carpet, so I'm gonna need another one of those...

EDIT:
After looking here, it appears to be the "front seat belt inner anchor," but the seat belt receiver is bolted onto the seat itself, so I'm still a little confused as to how it somehow anchors that, especially when the front end doesn't seem to bolt onto anything and just slides in like I said.

View attachment 83854

View attachment 83855

View attachment 83856
It is the geide to keep the receiver in upright position as i remember, at least it is a guide. The open end slides in below the receiver.
 
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Yblegal91t

it finally runs!
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been busy lately, new bride zeta III seats, nrg quick release with nardi mohagany wheel, new afr wideband guage, ecumaster black with plug and play adaptor, rewired main harness from injectors to front of engine (cps, oil, coolant, etc) new bosch knock sensors with new shielded wiring, new cps wiring (yotaconnectors.com) where i got some of my connectors & from and other sites. new harness bar with 4 point harnesses, new 5 ply hps intercooler couplers, new boost solenoid and a 4.9 wideband o2 sensor, did is300 coils and wire upgrade with ignitor ground upgrade (extended ignition harness to fit with coil and made custom brackets to hold coil (tootwik mod), grinded valve covers smooth, tapped for new pcv fittings and hoses (new catch can) and painted wrinkle black with new titanium bolts. poormanmods master cylinder led light bracket brace upgrade, upgraded dell chromebook ssd to install windows 10 for ecu software, new wideband guage to show afr read out and trans temp guage installed (running th400 still) looking at new tires 295 45 18 on rear, going to wire up hks tems controller next and relocating battery to hatch to be done soon too along with some other little things like all lighting converted over to led lighting.

Feels great to be working on and getting the supra back on the road soon again.

edit: lol, oh right pics to follow once i remember i will prob just put up a new updated post by then
 
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Asterix

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Tada! My Soup again has an engine undercover, aka Shroud of Nippon. That car didn't have one when I bought it in 1992, and obviously getting another was very low priority. Fortunately, they're still available and not too expensive.

I was pleasantly surprised all the mount holes were still there, though I had to bend the tab back into place for the passenger-side one near the LCA. I ran a tap through them all, which went smoothly.

Off to a test drive!
 

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Manny_P

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Today I cleared cobwebs, removed lose parts gave it a scrub, paid a deposit on a replacement engine and began to prepare work area.

103024031.jpg 103975029.jpg
 
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Clip

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Yesterday, finished tearing down the block and got a lot cleaned. Pistons, oil galleys, crank passages. Chased the threaded main and head holes in the block. Made sure the head and block were flat and smooth in preparation for reusing the MHG.





Today, probably hand lapping the valves and cleaning the rest of the carbon from the head.
 

Bru

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Took $1,000 of the stimulus money and bought new rims and tires. Raceline Mystique 7x16 offset 40. I had to get 60.1mm x 72.6mm aluminum centric rings For the hub and I used extended shank 60° angle tuner lug nuts torqued to 76 foot-pounds as before. My previous set were 5 spoke MK4 16 inch rims staggered 225 front 245 back. I couldn't rotate those and the offset being 50 messed with scrub angle, tire wear, and alignment. Stock offset should be near 37 mm. I found a set of TRD racing replacement center caps eBay.

New Wheels 1.JPG

New Wheels 2.JPG
 

Zazzn

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Don't know who remembers but I was looking for 1 front Tokico illumina shock to complete my set of 3 awhile back. (That I spent months locating)
Finally found that 1 front shock, 2 years later....!
Plus it is a pair!
Woo!

Now I have 2 complete sets of new old stock Tokico Illumina TEMS shocks :D
One set already on the car, one backup set in storage.

want to sell em? ;)
 

Piratetip

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want to sell em? ;)
Hah.
It's possible, but I would have to part with the car first.
My plan is to have enough to last my lifetime, or at least most of it.

I have one complete new set currently on the car, with less than 3k miles.
One spare set of 4x new in box plus 1 extra in storage.

If the car ever departs I'll have quite a bit of goodies to post up.
But I don't see that happening.

I might consider a new Lancia Stratos as a replacement, but I like this car too much. Hah!
The C8 is really tempting though as well.....
 

sinistar_xx

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Got the rear pads and rotors done today. The plan was to also fix the parking brake, as the lever has been going all the way up with no bite. Was hoping to just have to adjust the shoes, but as you can see in the last pic, baby needs a new pair of shoes. And some day I will deal with those rusty calipers...

IMG-9682.jpg
IMG-9685.jpg

IMG-9684.jpg