No other signs that's I've seen so far. Gonna do some more digging into it this weekend. Part of me just wants to run emery cloth over the journal, replace bearings and drop it back in for now. This motor has been bored .040 over, so I don't think the block has any more rebuilds left in it. It was purchased cheap ($500) from someone that said all the proper work had been done during rebuild, but he never put it in his car or started it (lost his job and ran out of money). Probe pistons, Eagle Rods and ARP hardware were in it, so I just assumed it was all good. I was doing an auto to R154 swap last year, so I decided to drop this engine in at the same time. All was fine for the first 1,000 miles, until it wasn't.It seems that by memory I have read something before that thanks to the pickup and oiling design on a 7m the number 2 rod bearing is the first to spin? Any other signs of oil starvation?
Use a locking grip plier to clamp the shaft from under the spring. If you are changing the shocks and gonna throw the old ones anyway..File this under "what did you fail to do to your Supra today". Got a set of spring compressors and took my first crack at trying to remove the hat off the strut they were on (shipped to me that way, so no opportunity to try and remove the top nut while still mounted in the car). But ran into the problem where the shock shaft just spins around and there is no notch in the stud on top for an allen wrench. I tried flipping one of the compressors around so it could act as a counter force, but that didn't work too well and I was afraid of breaking the compressor tool. A friend recommended backing off on the spring compression so the spring would put force on the hat, so I suppose I'll try that next. What doesn't help though is that the table the vise is mounted on is not bolted to the floor, so it's also a bit wobbly when trying things like this.
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came factory in my limitedSorry I'm super late to the post, but that's a sweet dash! Where did you get it from?
there is a guy whose done it, but it’s an EXTREMELY difficult fabrication processThat's a digidash. They're rare, but one pops up every once in a while. From what I've read, they're a bitch to wire in properly. They look pretty sick once they're done though.
bingoIts a left hand drive car. These were stock in Japan. I am guessing his car is a 1J he had imported.
ive used a set of knock off trucklites off Amazon with good results, name brand trucklites should be plugNplay and not need the polarity to be reversed unlike my knock offsI just bought a set of truck lights also. I haven't started hooking them up yet, but I thought they were plug and play.
It is the geide to keep the receiver in upright position as i remember, at least it is a guide. The open end slides in below the receiver.After getting the exhaust sorted out, the next best thing I'm excited to have fixed up is the busted bolster seam that's been present on the driver side seat ever since I got my Supra. Today, I got it back from being professionally fixed and I'm very pleased with the results.
Question though: in the last pic, what exactly is the function of that rail-type part highlighted in red? One end just seems to slide into the inner side rail connected to the seat, and then as you can see, the other end is bolted to the transmission hump. The part just slid out when I had the whole seat out of the car, and when I reinserted it, I wasn't sure if I was missing something about how it should be connected to the seat, or what it does for that matter. Also, the locking nut on the bolt for it dropped into the underside of the carpet, so I'm gonna need another one of those...
After looking here, it appears to be the "front seat belt inner anchor," but the seat belt receiver is bolted onto the seat itself, so I'm still a little confused as to how it somehow anchors that, especially when the front end doesn't seem to bolt onto anything and just slides in like I said.
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