What did you do to your supra today? Pics
- Thread starter boostinsupra
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I’ve been busy with the car the last couple months. The new sound system was finished about a week ago and I had been working on it since September. My dad owned the car before me and he had already installed a subwoofer with an amp to go with it, so I installed a new head unit, new door and rear speakers, a new amp for those speakers, and new wiring going to everything. The sound is awesome now, I’m using 6.5” kickers in the doors and 5” kickers in the rear with a 600W max amp going to them. I still have some sound issues when using Bluetooth with the new head unit, so I’m just going to use CD’s and pretend I’m in the 90’s lol.
I also went into the driver side door and replaced the window motor and greased everything while I had it open.
I had Tein Flex Z coil overs delivered to me at the beginning of November and had planned to install them this spring, but my dad and I had thanksgiving weekend off so we decided to install them yesterday. I’m very grateful that he was able to help me, I don’t think I would’ve finished this weekend on my own lol. The old springs were cut by a previous owner, but now the car sits lower than it was with the old strut/springs. I accidentally squished the inter cooler a little bit on the jack lift when I went to lower it. It has a small bend there now, but I’m hoping it’s not seriously damaged. I have new low profile ramps that I should’ve used when I was putting it down, I just hadn’t thought everything through at that point.
I also decided to swap the BMW caps I put on my wheels for some caps that I put Toyota stickers on.
I’m currently working on removing the security system from the car. The car stop cranking at some point after I had finished installing the sound system, so I need to get it running again so I don’t drain the battery. A previous owner installed an aftermarket security system, but didn’t seem to remove the stock one, so I started by locating the stock one and following the steps in an old thread to remove it. The car still wouldn’t start so I located the aftermarket system, and now I’m going to try to remove its wiring from the system. I think I may install a kill switch for now, and maybe get a more modern security system in the future. I just want to get the car on the road and see what it does.
The forums have been a huge help for me, so thanks to everyone keeping this place alive.
I also went into the driver side door and replaced the window motor and greased everything while I had it open.
I had Tein Flex Z coil overs delivered to me at the beginning of November and had planned to install them this spring, but my dad and I had thanksgiving weekend off so we decided to install them yesterday. I’m very grateful that he was able to help me, I don’t think I would’ve finished this weekend on my own lol. The old springs were cut by a previous owner, but now the car sits lower than it was with the old strut/springs. I accidentally squished the inter cooler a little bit on the jack lift when I went to lower it. It has a small bend there now, but I’m hoping it’s not seriously damaged. I have new low profile ramps that I should’ve used when I was putting it down, I just hadn’t thought everything through at that point.
I also decided to swap the BMW caps I put on my wheels for some caps that I put Toyota stickers on.
I’m currently working on removing the security system from the car. The car stop cranking at some point after I had finished installing the sound system, so I need to get it running again so I don’t drain the battery. A previous owner installed an aftermarket security system, but didn’t seem to remove the stock one, so I started by locating the stock one and following the steps in an old thread to remove it. The car still wouldn’t start so I located the aftermarket system, and now I’m going to try to remove its wiring from the system. I think I may install a kill switch for now, and maybe get a more modern security system in the future. I just want to get the car on the road and see what it does.
The forums have been a huge help for me, so thanks to everyone keeping this place alive.
Attachments
Spending as much of the next ten days as possible working in the garage. Going to take her down off the jack stands for the first time in a couple of years 
The gas tank still isn't bolted to the car. It's ready to go, but, it's not an easy one-man job... at least not when you're over 70. Pictures to follow when I come up with something different... for now, nothing has change in months. Going to work on a tow bar so I can regain some room here. Car is licenses and insured, just no power... that's another story. Have a great day!
The gas tank still isn't bolted to the car. It's ready to go, but, it's not an easy one-man job... at least not when you're over 70. Pictures to follow when I come up with something different... for now, nothing has change in months. Going to work on a tow bar so I can regain some room here. Car is licenses and insured, just no power... that's another story. Have a great day!
You could always prop the tank up on each side with wood blocks and then stick a floor jack under the center of the tank to jack it up. That's what I did but with no wood blocks, just a thought though...Spending as much of the next ten days as possible working in the garage. Going to take her down off the jack stands for the first time in a couple of years
The current idea...
But not today. The car is down and out of the garage for the first time in years.
Washed her and of course it rains. First time it’s been in the rain since 2006. Hope to get used to it very soon. Well, 2020
Fuel tank back in, filter banjo not connected yet, new fuel lines 1/2 installed, and electric connections made. Still have to install my badly cracked plastic cover. Guess cranked is better than missing, either way, . Ended up using the transmission jack, but the car was so high I reached my limit. Used mechanics wire to hold it in place while inserting a stick of wood. Worked just fine. Physically 3 or 4 hours work... not bad for an old man.
More importantly, there’s almost room in the garage to put the car in. That is the intent, by Sunday.
along with all of this
. Ended up using the transmission jack, but the car was so high I reached my limit. Used mechanics wire to hold it in place while inserting a stick of wood. Worked just fine. Physically 3 or 4 hours work... not bad for an old man.
More importantly, there’s almost room in the garage to put the car in. That is the intent, by Sunday.
along with all of this
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Broke my damn door handle.
Anyone know if it's made of aluminum? Material does not seem magnetic.
Anyone know if it's made of aluminum? Material does not seem magnetic.
I would like to think it's a very poor cast low grade aluminum, because I have read accounts of people being able to weld them, but with difficulty as it seems the metal has a lot of junk cast in it, I would have to think it's aluminum though as I personally have never seen nor heard of door handles rusted.
I think they are correct, it did not hold up well at all to a test.
Perhaps we can get a CAD model made so a higher quality replacement could be made.
Perhaps we can get a CAD model made so a higher quality replacement could be made.
I am a novice TIG welder and wouldn't try to weld it, but I think this is a candidate from "aluminum brazing"... it sort of falls between welding and soldering. I've seen some demos on youtube and ads on Amazon. You use a propane or map torch with minimum else. Dark glasses probably good, not sure how bright it gets. I'll look for an Amazon link and edit.
Edit: Harbor Freight https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-low-temperature-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.html
I saw a review on the HF sticks, and it basically worked as I recall.
Edit: Amazon - most of the comments say "scam" as they're advertised as low melting point, but still require substantial heat. I seem to remember needing map gas to braze with them. Check it out yourself and see what you think.
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I looked at 3D modelling it, but with all of the shape, it would take a long time and be quite difficult. Ultimately, the best bet would to be to get a good one 3D scanned, and then use that to build a model to get 3D printed out of metal.
And now it looks like Toyota will be making new door handles, so problem solved? http://www.supramania.com/forum/threads/toyota-to-reproduce-some-genuine-a70-80-parts.248924/
The extra bracing looks pretty stout. I imagine it's to prevent cracking with high horse power, but have you noticed the rigidity when driving at all?
I haven't drove it yet. I've had a leak in my fuel lines that I just got fixed. I decided to do the subframe bushings while the car was down doing the extra fuel pump install. I hope to drive it in a week or so.
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- Jun 23, 2018
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Sorry I'm super late to the post, but that's a sweet dash! Where did you get it from?
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That's a digidash. They're rare, but one pops up every once in a while. From what I've read, they're a bitch to wire in properly. They look pretty sick once they're done though.
@suprahero Nice subframe man. That's one of the few parts of the MK3 that I know very little about. Time to read I guess.
Its a left hand drive car. These were stock in Japan. I am guessing his car is a 1J he had imported.
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- Dec 28, 2018
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- New tail light gaskets. Not exactly a quick job.
- New rear hatch lower cushions.
- Replaced original washer nozzles with Camry nozzles.
- Replaced all tail light bulbs.
- Swapped in replacement steering column cover for the ignition section.
Finished up my tow bar bracket mods to the OEM tie-down hooks.
Filled the original oblong holes and drilled new ones, then welded a piece of steel to assure proper alignment. My welds
are not yet a signature, but nobody will see them unless I show them
Also semi-mounted the shiny steel cover between the nose-panel and the radiator support.
Hard to get a good picture of... shadows, and in this shot, the garage door overhead. It doesn't fit perfectly, and I've got to find new
rubber hood stops that have deteriorated.
I've been crossed between installing the wiring harness on the stand, or pre-installing it in the car, but I need to get the dash back in,
and I want to get the stock ECU and ABS boxes back in... stock, to run that way first, before switching to the Arduino and RasPi dash.
It's looking good, but I'm so far away.... definitely got in over my head <sigh> Yeah, yeah, the journey, and all that....
Filled the original oblong holes and drilled new ones, then welded a piece of steel to assure proper alignment. My welds
are not yet a signature, but nobody will see them unless I show them
Also semi-mounted the shiny steel cover between the nose-panel and the radiator support.
Hard to get a good picture of... shadows, and in this shot, the garage door overhead. It doesn't fit perfectly, and I've got to find new
rubber hood stops that have deteriorated.
I've been crossed between installing the wiring harness on the stand, or pre-installing it in the car, but I need to get the dash back in,
and I want to get the stock ECU and ABS boxes back in... stock, to run that way first, before switching to the Arduino and RasPi dash.
It's looking good, but I'm so far away.... definitely got in over my head
<sigh> Yeah, yeah, the journey, and all that....
Here's the complete setup, minus the modified OEM tie-down brackets.
The attachment pins still need some work (shortening and drilling), and a couple of welds ground down before painting, but, this is it.
There are three sets of holes which will allow the bar to be level on the cars I'm likely to be using.
Here it is attached to the car...
Anybody care to comment on the safety issues and liability associated with this? It's a little scary... but, I honestly believe it will work
and be safe... and according to our Congress, all you have to do is "believe in your mind" that it's okay, and then, of course, it's okay
Sad commentary. Sorry, but I am currently very pissed about what's happening in America.
Later,
David
The attachment pins still need some work (shortening and drilling), and a couple of welds ground down before painting, but, this is it.
There are three sets of holes which will allow the bar to be level on the cars I'm likely to be using.
Here it is attached to the car...
Anybody care to comment on the safety issues and liability associated with this? It's a little scary... but, I honestly believe it will work
and be safe... and according to our Congress, all you have to do is "believe in your mind" that it's okay, and then, of course, it's okay
Sad commentary. Sorry, but I am currently very pissed about what's happening in America.
Later,
David
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2018
- Messages
- 201
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2018
- Messages
- 201
Due to inclement weather and other things, Supra projects will be on hold for a while, so here's a pic from last weekend.
Installed new trunk struts and starting compounding the fog lights... prepping for assembly.
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I just bought a set of truck lights also. I haven't started hooking them up yet, but I thought they were plug and play. I got the part number from the supra on sale of Facebook that he wants twenty grand for. Looks like a lot of good parts went into that build. Hopefully he gets what he's asking for it. Either way, I thought I'd try out his head lights that he used.
Let me know how the install goes. I am thinking of buying the same ones. If cutting wires and splicing is involved I'll keep it stock.
Played musical cars to work on the new 06LX's underside. Also had to charge up the battery after 6 months of shuffling the mk3 in and out of the garage. She hasn't been on asphalt in long while...
After 10 months of sitting, I finally got the motor and transmission back out of the car. 1000 miles after the rebuild and i got some kind of slow knock. It was RPM related, but didn't sound as fast as a rod knock usually would. Compression and oil pressure were fine. No metal in the oil at all. Going to do some more digging this evening.
If it's a slow knock sounds valve train related as it moves half speed of the bottom end.
