You could always prop the tank up on each side with wood blocks and then stick a floor jack under the center of the tank to jack it up. That's what I did but with no wood blocks, just a thought though...Spending as much of the next ten days as possible working in the garage. Going to take her down off the jack stands for the first time in a couple of yearsThe gas tank still isn't bolted to the car. It's ready to go, but, it's not an easy one-man job... at least not when you're over 70. Pictures to follow when I come up with something different... for now, nothing has change in months. Going to work on a tow bar so I can regain some room here. Car is licenses and insured, just no power... that's another story. Have a great day!
The current idea...You could always prop the tank up on each side with wood blocks and then stick a floor jack under the center of the tank to jack it up. That's what I did but with no wood blocks, just a thought though...
I would like to think it's a very poor cast low grade aluminum, because I have read accounts of people being able to weld them, but with difficulty as it seems the metal has a lot of junk cast in it, I would have to think it's aluminum though as I personally have never seen nor heard of door handles rusted.Broke my damn door handle.
Anyone know if it's made of aluminum? Material does not seem magnetic.
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I am a novice TIG welder and wouldn't try to weld it, but I think this is a candidate from "aluminum brazing"... it sort of falls between welding and soldering. I've seen some demos on youtube and ads on Amazon. You use a propane or map torch with minimum else. Dark glasses probably good, not sure how bright it gets. I'll look for an Amazon link and edit.I would like to think it's a very poor cast low grade aluminum, because I have read accounts of people being able to weld them, but with difficulty as it seems the metal has a lot of junk cast in it, I would have to think it's aluminum though as I personally have never seen nor heard of door handles rusted.
The extra bracing looks pretty stout. I imagine it's to prevent cracking with high horse power, but have you noticed the rigidity when driving at all?I’ve been rebuilding rear subframe.
Sorry I'm super late to the post, but that's a sweet dash! Where did you get it from?Drove it to work View attachment 82613
That's a digidash. They're rare, but one pops up every once in a while. From what I've read, they're a bitch to wire in properly. They look pretty sick once they're done though.Sorry I'm super late to the post, but that's a sweet dash! Where did you get it from?
Its a left hand drive car. These were stock in Japan. I am guessing his car is a 1J he had imported.That's a digidash. They're rare, but one pops up every once in a while. From what I've read, they're a bitch to wire in properly. They look pretty sick once they're done though.
@suprahero Nice subframe man. That's one of the few parts of the MK3 that I know very little about. Time to read I guess.
Let me know how the install goes. I am thinking of buying the same ones. If cutting wires and splicing is involved I'll keep it stock.I just bought a set of truck lights also. I haven't started hooking them up yet, but I thought they were plug and play. I got the part number from the supra on sale of Facebook that he wants twenty grand for. Looks like a lot of good parts went into that build. Hopefully he gets what he's asking for it. Either way, I thought I'd try out his head lights that he used.
If it's a slow knock sounds valve train related as it moves half speed of the bottom end.After 10 months of sitting, I finally got the motor and transmission back out of the car. 1000 miles after the rebuild and i got some kind of slow knock. It was RPM related, but didn't sound as fast as a rod knock usually would. Compression and oil pressure were fine. No metal in the oil at all. Going to do some more digging this evening.
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