What did you do to your supra today? Pics

Old Radar

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I installed a shinny new Tanabe Medallion Touring catback.
No more going over speed bumps since the resonator only has a 3-inch clearance...

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twin2turbo

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Did alot of prep this weekend on the dash harness. Had to remove all the Hvac system, climate control, audio, cluster, abs, srs, ac electrical systems. Removign wiring and stripping all the unnecessary connectors, wires and components I'll no longer be utilizing.

For the HVAC system, I'll be running an electric heating element that is all contained with a 3 speed and temp blower. The housing has two ports for available tube and vent routing. These will be used for windshield defrost. No more coolant fed heater core. This will free up a ton of space and weight over the stock system.

For the audio I'd like to retain 2 speakers for the occasional tune when taking it out for occasions. The deck and amp will be removed. I'll be running a small 2 channel motorcycle amp with a Bluetooth module. This will allow me to connect and play music without a deck.

Digi race dash will be in this week so no need for any cluster wiring.








 

Piratetip

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Haha very nice.
So much extra OEM junk under the dash.

You should weigh all the components removed to see your weight savings.
Or just do a final vehicle weight once done.
 

twin2turbo

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what HVAC system are you using?
600W 12V system by demon tweeks

tsdductedelectricheater.jpg
tsdelectriccabheater2-1.jpg

Haha very nice.
So much extra OEM junk under the dash.

You should weigh all the components removed to see your weight savings.
Or just do a final vehicle weight once done.
yea there is an astonishing amount of components under the dash.

The car is getting a full race pedigree so I'll be curious as well to see the final weigh. The rest of the car is pretty stripped down aswell, but theres always something more to take off so its forever shrinking.
 

Piratetip

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600W constant is fairly significant on a 12V system.

What amperage alternator are you using?
This heater on high alone will be drawing ~43A @ 14V.
 

Piratetip

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Braille?
Shorai?
Super B?

Have you measured the alternator output when you are using everything on high?
Just curious how close to max output you are coming, sounds like a hefty load.
 

twin2turbo

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Braille?
Shorai?
Super B?

Have you measured the alternator output when you are using everything on high?
Just curious how close to max output you are coming, sounds like a hefty load.
I'm running a Shorai. I have not tested everything yet, motor hasnt fired yet on this build. The powersteering is getting setup on a switch and will likely only be used for slow speed turning. Water pump is variable voltage and only uses what it needs. The defrost will likely work for what I need on the 200w setting but i am also curious to see what my final draw will be on the system. Ill have more figures once shes running again this spring
 

te72

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I apologized to mine. Coworker asked how it was running... I had to admit that it has been a few months since I've even started it. Only thing keeping it from being a daily now is a lack of appropriate for the climate tires. :nono:
 

MarkIII4Me

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What I did was finally get the Supra back.

After 5 months at the tuners, the Supra is home. Pulls like a freight train and will break traction in 2nd and 3rd under boost with 275 Gforces on the rear. Dyno video was terrible quality with crackly audio, so a dyno chart will have to do for now.

516.8 whp @ 6700rpm / 478 ft-lbs of tq at 5350rpm. 22psi on 93 octane. Super conservative and border-line rich afr. The large power dip at 6200rpm was from spark blowout. Gapping the plugs down to 24 resolved the issue.

Plenty of pull for me. Thing is blast to drive.


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suprarx7nut

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I installed a shinny new Tanabe Medallion Touring catback.
No more going over speed bumps since the resonator only has a 3-inch clearance...
Funny you should say that... I scraped my Tanabe after only a hand full of times pulling into my driveway. The angle required to scrape the lip the least scrapes the resonator. :/ Lowered car problems, I guess.

What I did was finally get the Supra back.

After 5 months at the tuners, the Supra is home. Pulls like a freight train and will break traction in 2nd and 3rd under boost with 275 Gforces on the rear. Dyno video was terrible quality with crackly audio, so a dyno chart will have to do for now.

516.8 whp @ 6700rpm / 478 ft-lbs of tq at 5350rpm. 22psi on 93 octane. Super conservative and border-line rich afr. The large power dip at 6200rpm was from spark blowout. Gapping the plugs down to 24 resolved the issue.

Plenty of pull for me. Thing is blast to drive.
Nice numbers! That's right about where I'm aiming with my 91. I figure that's a great power level for something still easy to drive like a sane person, but plenty to roar up any on-ramp.

Was the 2nd and 3rd run after fixing blowout? There's still a big dip in power, but not nearly as bad as the first run. It also looks a little lean from 5-6k. Maybe I'm crazy, but I'd want that closer to 11.5 throughout that range.

I'm also surprised to see peak torque that high in the rev range! My completely stock 7M made more torque at 3k. Of course, it was done after that, while yours kept pulling to the moon!



So I didn't do anything to the Supra lately, but I did pick up some awesome sales booklets on eBay this week!
Booklets1.JPG Booklets2.jpg
 

MarkIII4Me

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Was the 2nd and 3rd run after fixing blowout? There's still a big dip in power, but not nearly as bad as the first run. It also looks a little lean from 5-6k. Maybe I'm crazy, but I'd want that closer to 11.5 throughout that range.
I diagnosed and resolved the spark blowout issue a couple days after picking the vehicle up from the tuner. He was saying the power dip was likely due to the restrictive factory exhaust manifold, however, I have never seen that power drop on any of my past dyno runs. As soon as I drove the vehicle home, the engine would sputter under full boost and even backfire. That's when I realized it was spark blowout. After tightening the plug gap it pulled like a sonovabitch all the way through redline. Unfortunately, now I'm seeing 10.3 afr under full boost, which is hella rich. I just don't feel like taking it back to the tuners since I've been without it for so long. It's running great and I don't have to worry about going lean under boost if there's a spike or anything. Eventually I'm going to have to get it back on a dyno and lean it out a bit. Wonder how much power that spark blowout and rich afr was affecting my numbers?

I did notice that lean range on the dyno chart from 5-6k. That may be from the spark blowout since that was the rpm range were the engine was sputtering for me. Unburnt fuel will not cause the wb read rich, but lean. With my forged internals I'm not too concerned, but I'll need to pay attention to my wideband readings on my next drive.
 
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suprarx7nut

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I diagnosed and resolved the spark blowout issue a couple days after picking the vehicle up from the tuner. He was saying the power dip was likely due to the restrictive factory exhaust manifold, however, I have never seen that power did on any of my past dyno runs. As soon as I drove the vehicle home, the engine would sputter under full boost and even backfire. That's when I realized it was spark blowout. After tightening the plug gap it pulled like a sonovabitch all the way through redline. Unfortunately, now I'm seeing 10.3 afr under full boost, which is hella rich. I just don't feel like taking it back to the tuners since I've been without it for so long. It's running great and I don't have to worry about going lean under boost if there's a spike or anything. Eventually I'm going to have to get it back on a dyno and lean it out a bit. Wonder how much power that spark blowout and rich afr was affecting my numbers?

I did notice that lean range on the dyno chart from 5-6k. That may be from the spark blowout since that was the rpm range were the engine was sputtering for me. Unburnt fuel will not cause the wb read rich, but lean. With my forged internals I'm not too concerned, but I'll need to pay attention to my wideband readings on my next drive.
Good point on the misfire showing as lean. I don't think you were overly rich through the rest of the powerband though. I'd rather be a little rich than a little lean. ;)
 

Asterix

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Yesterday, I installed an outside temperature display that I've wanted for a while. I put the sensor under the right headlamp in front of the intake, zip-tied to an AC pipe. I hoped it would be more consistent because of the air flow, but I may try it in front of the radiator. The temperature goes up a few degrees while I'm sitting at a stoplight.
I like the green LED display as it matches the stock stuff, but it's a bit bright, and not adjustable. I just tapped into the cigar lighter power to run it. It uses under 10milliAmps.
Maybe if the Fahrenheit version ever becomes available I'll swap it out. Meanwhile, I get to learn Celsius. This was the smallest display I could find on Amazon.
 

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te72

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Yesterday, I installed an outside temperature display that I've wanted for a while. I put the sensor under the right headlamp in front of the intake, zip-tied to an AC pipe. I hoped it would be more consistent because of the air flow, but I may try it in front of the radiator. The temperature goes up a few degrees while I'm sitting at a stoplight.
I like the green LED display as it matches the stock stuff, but it's a bit bright, and not adjustable. I just tapped into the cigar lighter power to run it. It uses under 10milliAmps.
Maybe if the Fahrenheit version ever becomes available I'll swap it out. Meanwhile, I get to learn Celsius. This was the smallest display I could find on Amazon.
Little piece of tint over the display should cure that brightness issue, if you can get it to stick. If not, can use VHT Niteshade, just make sure the display face is absolutely clean before you spray...

As far as the temp itself goes, are you sure that's in celsius? That's a touch high for February in the northern hemisphere...
 

Asterix

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Little piece of tint over the display should cure that brightness issue, if you can get it to stick. If not, can use VHT Niteshade, just make sure the display face is absolutely clean before you spray...

As far as the temp itself goes, are you sure that's in celsius? That's a touch high for February in the northern hemisphere...
I "painted" it with a black Sharpie after I took the photo, but I will look for a better solution, like a wee piece of tint film.

It was 6.9C in my garage when I took the picture. The sun on the door warms it up nicely.
 

plaaya69

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Nice Asterix, never seen a mk3 with a outside temp display. You might find a good spot to mount the temp sensor next to the ambient temp sensor under the front horns in the middle next to the coolant reservoir.
 

Doat

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Trying to figure out a good brand of coilovers or strut setup for my car


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I have BC racing coilovers with swift springs and I love them and pretty affordable. I got mine for about $1200ish.

After about a year of it sitting in the garage with a BHG I was finally able to get to the point of starting the tear down. I got a second head, had it surfaced and heli-coiled the exhaust threads then when I remove my current head I am going to swap over the cams and valves, lap the valves, change all of the seals and gaskets, and slap it back together with an ECUmasters DET3 piggy back. This is the progress I've made over last weekend and I am surprised I got as far as I did in a couple days considering the last time I did this was about 5 years ago without resurfacing the head. I cannot wait to get back in this baby and boost again I've missed it so much and am very excited to see the results this time after the MAF is removed and a tune.

 

Asterix

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As far as the temp itself goes, are you sure that's in celsius? That's a touch high for February in the northern hemisphere...
It just hit me that the decimal point is hard to see in my photo... No, it wasn't 69C in my garage in February. That's way over the highest temperature ever recorded on the surface of Earth.
:aigo: :evil5: ::flame::
 

sheedy126

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Had a friend take a few pictures next to a pretty cool partial submarine in town.
Put some Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 275/40 tires on the back. They sure perform a lot better than the other coopers
Also broke the transmission... Parts on the way!


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sheedy126

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Assembled the r154. Seems to shift fine on the bench, but it's the first transmission I've rebuilt. We'll see how it goes IMG_20180302_232703178.jpg IMG_20180301_175018388.jpg

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black89t

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you better have put the upgraded thrust washer in there! i rebuilt mine with the upgraded retainer, washer, and shift forks. its held up great handle lots of launches at the track. the main thing with doing the trans is making sure everything is seated enough when pressing things together. then also measure your snap rings and get the proper one to make things as tight as possible. usually the one you pull out doesn't fit right after reassembly.
 

sheedy126

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you better have put the upgraded thrust washer in there! i rebuilt mine with the upgraded retainer, washer, and shift forks. its held up great handle lots of launches at the track. the main thing with doing the trans is making sure everything is seated enough when pressing things together. then also measure your snap rings and get the proper one to make things as tight as possible. usually the one you pull out doesn't fit right after reassembly.
Oh definitely did! I got the mc shift fork, thrust washer, and retainer. I didn't measure the snap rings though, I tore everything down and reassembled. If I have any issues down the road I'll just have to open it up again. It was my first transmission rebuild but so far it shifts like butter!

I had a leaky input shaft seal and it soaked my clutch disk so I took it back out and replaced the seal. I also went with the ACT ceramic 4 puck this round. I hear they are just a little lighter and hold a little more torque as well. We'll see


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