Water bypass pipe #2 on 1jz

black ice mike

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#1
Hi all, I've been wondering what to do with this coolant pipe that wraps around the back of the block

Number 2 water pipe.jpg

I was reading that you can block off most of this stuff but it might be better to still have some connected due to lowering the temps in the head and helping with detonation. So in saying that would it be better to cut off the smaller pipes and just keep the full one that wraps around the head?

modified #2 water bypass pipe.jpeg

Sort of like the pic above but with it going to the inlet for the oil cooler, even though the stock oil cooler is no longer being used.

20180722_175107.jpg

My next question is what to to with the small tube that comes out of the bottom of the water pump and also the pipe that comes out of the side of the back of the head on the drivers side, I believe that the pipe that comes out of the water pump was once for on of the turbo but I am not sure, and I have no idea what the larger pipe that is on the back of the head goes to

20180722_175130.jpg

20180722_175059.jpg

Any help would be really helpful.
 

seoul4korea

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#2
Howdy! I have pretty much most of the answers you are looking for! you can 100% use the GE pipe with no issue, I don't have the OEM Oil heat exchanger so I to wanted to toss that pipe. I used a GE pipe from a SC300 (92), that pipe feeds the heat core to the car. I'm using my hydro pump so I had modify mine as for some reason the bracket did not line up on my IS300 2J block (I have a 1.5J). refer the photo below.


As for the other ones listed. the other coolant pipe is for the factory turbos, I just put a hose and clamped a stainless steel bolt in it.

The other photo posted is the heat core return, don't block that one of course.

The pipe that is the on the intake side of the motor at the front is actually the throttle body and IACV return pipe for coolant.

If you plan on getting rid of your OEM oil heat exchanger I would pull some of the threaded plugs from a GE block to block off the OEM ports. I'll upload my GE block to show you an example.
 

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black ice mike

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#3
Hi! Thanks a bunch! So if i read this right the coolant pipe coming off the water pump is for the factory turbo, so i can easily block it with a hose and bolt. Now the one that is on the back of the head on the left side is for the heater core return? Now what if I hadn't planned on having heat in my car, could I loop the line for the heater core? Oh thats what the pipe on the intake side is for, thats good to know as well. I won't be using the IACV either so I guess I can block that off as you say with a plug from a GE engine? What is the second smaller pipe for on the GE bypass pipe?
 

seoul4korea

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#4
Correct about the water pump.

As for the Heater core you can just loop those no problem.

The One on the side of the head for the IACV / TB can be blocked off the same way as the water pump.

What I was talking about for the plug from the GE is for deleting the factory oil cooler setup. The GE motor has a threaded plug that can be used to remove the nipple about the oil filter mount.

As for the second smaller pipe, I don't actually remember lol. I have it blocked off the exact same way as the others. I used stainless steel bolts so that they didn't rust.
 

black ice mike

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#5
Oh sweet thanks! This helped a bunch. I am not using the factory oil cooler set up, I have a driftmotion one. To be honest I'm nut sure which nipple you are talking about unless it's this one in the pic below

20180724_055205.jpg
 

seoul4korea

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#6
Morning,it's actually the one directly above that. Doyou so see that big pipe there? What you have circled is the bolt mount for the oem filter neck.
 

black ice mike

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#7
Ok, I see now. So I can take that out and get a GE plug and not have to worry about that at all then. Gotcha. I think that's everything covered then! Thanks so much for the help