Upgrading and Maintaining

Hey.Friend

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I have a rare opportunity to do right by my low miles 1986.5 Silver beauty. My main mission is just as the title suggests, to maintain a 34 year old car but upgrading parts here and there so it isn't so boring. Coming up maintenance includes fixing an exhaust leak at the EGR cooler. Upgrades coming up include installing a 3.91 limited slip differential I bought from Piratetip, along with a 32 tooth driven gear I picked up from the dealership. Regular maintenance includes new brake pads, front rotors and a total fluid flush.
IMG_5707.jpg

Looking at buying and installing a Pacesetter exhaust manifold and downpipe. Have not decided on the muffler I want to go with yet.
The car is on 4, 6 ton jack stands. I can put up pictures of the underside tomorrow but its relatively clean and I didn't find anything concerning.
F35ACD2B-F43B-433B-8B60-A00D59909E4B.jpg IMG_5881.jpg
In the future (sometime this year) I want to pick up some Brian Crower Stage 2 cams and Technico adjustable cam gears.
I'm also looking to switch my suspension over to the Tein Flex Z Coilovers so i can drop an inch and a half.
The Supras' Instagram handle is iiimked. Feel free to follow, I'll follow back ;)

If you have any suggestions, complaints or concerns, please drop them below. I read the forums almost every day.
I'm also really interested in keeping the 7mge in the car paired with the automatic transmission (open to doing a manual swap one day). I want to stay pretty close to OEM with this build and having a car that's as clean as possible. Some may find that incredibly boring, that's fair haha.
Thanks for looking!
 
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Hey.Friend

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Exhaust is totally out and I took some time to see how some parts of the underside would clean up. Here's the picture dump.
 

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Hey.Friend

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I started getting the engine ready to remove the EGR cooler gasket and like everyone has said, its a pain in the butt to get in there. I drained the transmission already and plan on dropping it to jack the back of the engine up. I also am switching out all of the Phillips head screws for the cam covers with hex head bolts.
 

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Hey.Friend

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Today I took out the drive shaft and started disconnecting the transmission peripherals. I’ll be replacing the differential as mentioned above, so I thought I’d replace the driven gear while it was out of the car and well... it won’t fit. It had a larger diameter than the original 21 tooth gear (new gear is 32 tooth) and even the original is a tight fit. I got the new gear from the dealership. Does anyone have a source they’ve received driven gears without issue?
 

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Hey.Friend

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I have looked all over the place and I'm unsure of what I'm looking at. In the attached image is my driven gear with 6by21 stamped on it. I know that 21 is the number of teeth on the gear, but what is the 6? Would that be my drive gear? I tested this by plugging the numbers into the speedo gear calculator and with a 4.30 rear diff and 6 tooth drive gear. The calculated driven gear tooth requirement came out to 20.4, so this seems to make sense. This is the original article I pulled information from but i guess the 10 or 11 drive gear is only in the manual transmissions. https://www.supraforums.com/threads/need-help-with-figuring-out-how-to-correct-my-speedometer.591629/

I continued looking around and found what I was looking for. It's important to note that my transmission is the A340E and not realizing there would be a difference in the gears is totally my fault lol. Leaving my first paragraph up for anyone else that needs the information. Here's the link with information from Jeff Lange that outlines everything (post #6).https://www.supraforums.com/threads/r-154-vs-a340e.629561/
 

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3p141592654

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I think you need to change both the driven and drive gears (33481) to keep the total separation constant. You cannot just change one. I am pretty sure there is a thread on this somewhere. Maybe Jeff Lange can comment.
1610506653532.png

Also, be careful with the switch to valve cover hex bolts. Too much torque and the cover will crack. The torque spec is only 25 in-lbs.
 
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Piratetip

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I could have sworn I posted somewhere all the driven and drive gear combinations needed for each gear ratio...
I went through all this before, but now I can't find the record of it.
Need to search more...
 

Piratetip

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@Jeff Lange would be a good one to pull in for the driven/drive gear ratios discussion.
 

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I think I found it.
Old post from @Jeff Lange
Copy paste from Supraforums:

______________________________
The A340E used 4.30:1 on N/A's, 3.91:1 on 87-88 Turbos and 3.73:1 on the 89-92 Turbos, so yes Toyota did match the A340E to the 3.73 in the Supra.

The speedometer drive gear for this is NOT the same between the A340E and R154, they have drastically different tooth counts.

33403-29115 - R154/W58 Speedometer Driven Gear (3.73:1 Final Drive) (33-tooth)
33403-29125 - R154/W58 Speedometer Driven Gear (3.91:1 Final Drive) (32-tooth)
33403-29135 - R154/W58 Speedometer Driven Gear (4.10:1 Final Drive) (33-tooth)
33403-19235 - R154/W58 Speedometer Driven Gear (4.30:1 Final Drive) (35-tooth)
33403-69195 - A340E Speedometer Driven Gear (3.73:1 Final Drive) (18-tooth)
33403-29065 - A340E Speedometer Driven Gear (3.91:1 Final Drive) (20-tooth)
33482-39015 - A340E Speedometer Driven Gear (4.30:1 Final Drive) (21-tooth)

33481-14071 - R154/W58 Speedometer Drive Gear (3.73:1 Final Drive) (11-tooth)
33481-14080 - R154/W58 Speedometer Drive Gear (3.91:1 Final Drive) (10-tooth)
33481-14031 - R154/W58 Speedometer Drive Gear (4.10:1 & 4.30:1 Final Drive) (10-tooth)
33481-30060 - A340E Speedometer Drive Gear (3.73:1 & 3.91:1 Final Drive) (6-tooth)
33481-24020 - A340E Speedometer Drive Gear (4.30:1 Final Drive) (6-tooth)

EDIT: Also, referring to the post about the differential codes, 89-92 N/A Open diffs had axle code G282, they were only 2-pinion instead of 4-pinion differentials.

Jeff
_______________________________
 

Hey.Friend

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I think you need to change both the driven and drive gears (33481) to keep the total separation constant. You cannot just change one. I am pretty sure there is a thread on this somewhere. Maybe Jeff Lange can comment.
View attachment 85103

Also, be careful with the switch to valve cover hex bolts. Too much torque and the cover will crack. The torque spec is only 25 in-lbs.
I found another post by Jeff (#11) https://www.supraforums.com/threads/tranny-speedo-gear-problems.339125/post-3861554
My thought after reading this and looking at the parts list that @Piratetip posted, even though I’ll only be going from a 21 to 20 tooth driven gear, the part number for the drive gear does change depending on wether the diff is a 4.30 or 3.91/3.75. I’ll call the dealership today and see if they have 33481-30060 & 33403-29065
Thanks for the heads up about the hex bolts!!
 

Hey.Friend

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I think I found it.
Old post from @Jeff Lange
Copy paste from Supraforums:

______________________________
The A340E used 4.30:1 on N/A's, 3.91:1 on 87-88 Turbos and 3.73:1 on the 89-92 Turbos, so yes Toyota did match the A340E to the 3.73 in the Supra.

The speedometer drive gear for this is NOT the same between the A340E and R154, they have drastically different tooth counts.

33403-29115 - R154/W58 Speedometer Driven Gear (3.73:1 Final Drive) (33-tooth)
33403-29125 - R154/W58 Speedometer Driven Gear (3.91:1 Final Drive) (32-tooth)
33403-29135 - R154/W58 Speedometer Driven Gear (4.10:1 Final Drive) (33-tooth)
33403-19235 - R154/W58 Speedometer Driven Gear (4.30:1 Final Drive) (35-tooth)
33403-69195 - A340E Speedometer Driven Gear (3.73:1 Final Drive) (18-tooth)
33403-29065 - A340E Speedometer Driven Gear (3.91:1 Final Drive) (20-tooth)
33482-39015 - A340E Speedometer Driven Gear (4.30:1 Final Drive) (21-tooth)

33481-14071 - R154/W58 Speedometer Drive Gear (3.73:1 Final Drive) (11-tooth)
33481-14080 - R154/W58 Speedometer Drive Gear (3.91:1 Final Drive) (10-tooth)
33481-14031 - R154/W58 Speedometer Drive Gear (4.10:1 & 4.30:1 Final Drive) (10-tooth)
33481-30060 - A340E Speedometer Drive Gear (3.73:1 & 3.91:1 Final Drive) (6-tooth)
33481-24020 - A340E Speedometer Drive Gear (4.30:1 Final Drive) (6-tooth)

EDIT: Also, referring to the post about the differential codes, 89-92 N/A Open diffs had axle code G282, they were only 2-pinion instead of 4-pinion differentials.

Jeff
_______________________________
Thank you for the post!
 

Hey.Friend

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I bought a low-profile, pass through socket wrench set and that did the trick! Got the EGR cooler plate out. The gasket was falling out with each bolt I removed. 9C5C3EF0-9A41-4E8E-8551-F663485D75B7.jpeg
 

Hey.Friend

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I didnt know a pass through socket set existed. I need one of those.
I got mine from harbor freight, made by Pittsburgh. My only complaint for it doing this job is the ratchet handle was too long so I had to do a lot of the work with my hands and the low profile socket once the bolt was loose enough.
 
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Hey.Friend

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due to the heat!
If you look at the plate, you had EGR leaking hence all the black on the edge by your thumb.
Do you think that with such a large leak, this could be the source of a “tapping” sound on the top end of the engine? I’m unsure of if the EGR’s internals have any moving parts, but I’ve been assuming that if it does, the sound it makes was escaping through this leak.
 

Hey.Friend

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Diff is out. New one will be in this weekend I think. I’m going to stick with the original driven gear and make an adjustment to the speedo to compensate. I’d still like to have an accurate odometer though. I’ll see if I can find a way to keep track of what my actual mileage will be in the meantime between when I installed the 3.91:1 and when I get a 20 tooth driven gear. EVR Cooler plate is cleaned up and ready to be installed, just waiting on the gasket to arrive. 69B45DC9-6B9E-451B-82F4-802F1998F025.jpeg 11224CAC-55E2-4F26-8536-0640FA16C120.jpeg D0D8A250-B3EE-41AE-AC27-B5B5A87CA7DF.jpeg
 

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I am looking at the HKS dual tip exhaust cat back system on Drift Motion. The piping diameter is 2.9". I know non-turbo cars run 2.5". The piping would still be 2.5” from the headers to the cat, so is there a negative impact to have 3” piping cat back??
 
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JDMMA70

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Usually back pressure is the concern as it is said it can have an impact on torque on NA cars. I dont have dyno sheets to show you unfortunately. However I have seen NA cars run turbo exhaust setups. In my opinion you arent going to lose much IF you lose anything at all to actually notice it.
 
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figgie

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I am looking at the HKS dual tip exhaust cat back system on Drift Motion. The piping diameter is 2.9". I know non-turbo cars run 2.5". The piping would still be 2.5” from the headers to the cat, so is there a negative impact to have 3” piping cat back??
Nope, the cat is going to be your restriction, after that maybe the resonator before the muffler (assuming the na has the same resonator as turbo).
 
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Hey.Friend

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Usually back pressure is the concern as it is said it can have an impact on torque on NA cars. I dont have dyno sheets to show you unfortunately. However I have seen NA cars run turbo exhaust setups. In my opinion you arent going to lose much IF you lose anything at all to actually notice it.
Thats really good to hear. The piping I have now is scaling badly inside and the flanges don’t look hot either.
Nope, the cat is going to be your restriction, after that maybe the resonator before the muffler (assuming the na has the same resonator as turbo).
The resonator on their now isn’t original anyway, just got slapped in at some point.

Thanks for the input guys. I’ll pick the exhaust up in a couple weeks.
 

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Hey.Friend

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EGR cooler gasket is in! That job sucked, but it wasn’t as bad as I thought it could be, especially with the right tool and it got easier when I figured out how to position my hand to get bolts in place. In one of the pictures you can see there’s only like 1/4”, if that, of space between the wrench and fire wall. I started cleaning the original exhaust manifold studs as I’d like to reuse them. I do have a 7/16 heli-coil set from driftmotion. One thread on the head is definitely gonna have to be tapped and have a coil inserted. I’m gonna try using stock studs for the rest that are okay because drilling into the head gives me anxiety haha. All of the hex bolts are in for cam covers as well.
 

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Hey.Friend

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I mentioned above I’ll be doing heli-coil inserts for my exhaust manifold. Does anyone have advice for how to drill out the old threads as straight as possible, free hand? I was thinking about making a couple 90 degree cutouts to put on the gasket surface to I can keep the bit as straight as possible. I have to do this with the engine installed and I will have to buy an angle drill to fit between the wheel well and the Head.
 
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debrucer

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I mentioned above I’ll be doing heli-coil inserts for my exhaust manifold. Does anyone have advice for how to drill out the old threads as straight as possible, free hand? I was thinking about making a couple 90 degree cutouts to put on the gasket surface to I can keep the bit as straight as possible. I have to do this with the engine installed and I will have to buy an angle drill to fit between the wheel well and the Head.
I did the mod freehand with my head off and got six of them right. The one I messed up I had to drill out and install an “e z loc” (I think was the name). It has a larger outside diameter and the same target inside. To drill this I bought a bench mounted drill press. That fixed it.

Now, as you may remember, the threads are stripped in one of my cam cap bolt holes. The engine is built and on stands, and I hope not to remove the head.

I’m now thinking to jack up my work bench and swing the drill press over the edge and get a straight hole that way.

Not sure. That idea just came to me. I’ll check the heights tomorrow.

:)avid
 
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3p141592654

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Doing it by hand in the car is tricky. I would buy a bubble level and attach it to the drill so that you can keep it as level as possible. It is almost impossible to gauge how level you are by eye when you are actually holding the drill.
 
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Hey.Friend

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Doing it by hand in the car is tricky. I would buy a bubble level and attach it to the drill so that you can keep it as level as possible. It is almost impossible to gauge how level you are by eye when you are actually holding the drill.
Okay I will do that for sure. I’ve messed up way too many times on other things doing them by eye to do something like that to my engine haha
 

Hey.Friend

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I did the mod freehand with my head off and got six of them right. The one I messed up I had to drill out and install an “e z loc” (I think was the name). It has a larger outside diameter and the same target inside. To drill this I bought a bench mounted drill press. That fixed it.

Now, as you may remember, the threads are stripped in one of my cam cap bolt holes. The engine is built and on stands, and I hope not to remove the head.

I’m now thinking to jack up my work bench and swing the drill press over the edge and get a straight hole that way.

Not sure. That idea just came to me. I’ll check the heights tomorrow.

:)avid
I wish you the best. That work ahead for you scares the crap out of me at my experience level.
 
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