UPDATED AND EDIT for current discussion which is now EFI output wire and JUNCTION BOX INSIDES!!! WITH PICTURES!!

the t3d

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careful, if you had the battery disconnected, the TCCS has had its knock values wiped so you are starting at the most aggressive timing that is programmed into the TCCS until it relearns knock value. You should be using the highest octane available in you area.
I didn't think about that. She doesn't see anything but 93 octane, which she'll be get some fresh later today. I'll be sure to NOT get crazy with her. I'm extra cautious usually through this break-in process.
 
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3p141592654

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The IACV sets average idle speed. A running average or rpm is compared to target rpm and the IACV adjusted to minimize the difference.

Idle quality is maintained by adjusting timing on the fly (every ignition firing). That is a short term strategy to improve smoothness. It can only correct for small rpm fluctuations.
 

the t3d

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The IACV sets average idle speed. A running average or rpm is compared to target rpm and the IACV adjusted to minimize the difference.

Idle quality is maintained by adjusting timing on the fly (every ignition firing). That is a short term strategy to improve smoothness. It can only correct for small rpm fluctuations.
Looking at some USDM throttle bodies, there doesn't seem to be that idle adjustment screw. I have a JDM throttle body that I modified to have the better spring linkage for the throttle cable. I just realized that I screwed that screw in a fair amount to close that opening and guess what I noticed? I have that port as the main vacuum source to my oil catch can system to reduce crankcase pressure. Closing that source, without realizing it, was causing oil to be squirting out if my dipstick tube. My dipstick is old and kinda shitty, but it never did that before and actual oil pressure readings are right on the money. I'm going to open that screw back up tomorrow, confirm my hypothesis, and just drive it to see if the idle starts to settle down as it should. The littlest shit makes the biggest difference sometimes. Crazy.
 

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If your PCV system is not evacuating the crankcase gasses properly they take other routes.
One of them is trying to escape via the dipstick tube.
Having the crankcase pressurized is never a good thing.
Can cause all sorts of problems.
Though I would pick a dipstick tube pushed out before crankshaft main seal blowout.
 

the t3d

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If your PCV system is not evacuating the crankcase gasses properly they take other routes.
One of them is trying to escape via the dipstick tube.
Having the crankcase pressurized is never a good thing.
Can cause all sorts of problems.
Though I would pick a dipstick tube pushed out before crankshaft main seal blowout.
So, I should've known better to assume my electrical issue would "fix" itself. After pumping gas, I went to fire it up and got the same high resistance on the B+ wire to prevent starting. I was like, really? But I know where the problem is, so I went jiggled the connector around, went to restart it, and it fired right up. There was still some resistance in the circuit as the battery voltage reading on my SAFC2 wasn't reading as high as it should with no resistance in the circuit. Regardless, it got me home. I know now, to just bypass that connector or just re-pin that wire with some fresh wire.

My current issue is still the excess crankcase pressure. I did a LOT of reading on old threads on here and learned a lot about how the system works, but everything is like 10+ years old, and all the photobucket pictures are gone now, so there are very little visuals. I drew out 2 possible options for which direction I should go to either keep my oil catch can setup and just enhance it, or go back to a stock-like setup, but with a check valve to maximize the vacuum pull when not in boost. The check valve are in YELLOW and they point to where the flow would be going.



I have a JDM TB, which allows this screw to be adjusted in or out to open/close the orifice. I had it screwed in a good amount, and that seemed to line up with my current issue of oil squirting out the dipstick. I backed the screw out about 1/4 inch from where it was before to see if that would change anything. This is my main source of vacuum for my current catch can setup, and now since the Supra is running probably better and smoother than ever has, this seems to be inefficient to remove the pressure from the crankcase. I have only 300 miles on this build, and for the first 200 miles, this has never been an issue at all. It just seems since it has been running better and since I adjusted that screw a few weeks ago, this problem has surfaced. The first two pictures show my setup that uses the NA tubing, flipped to join the nipples, which goes to CC, and then is sucked from the TB.



Since making that adjustment, I did feel there was an improvement on vacuum from the system, but I feel it was not enough as oil was still trying to squirt out the dipstick after a road test. Now, I still have little miles on this engine and I am not getting into boost yet. There is zero smoke out the tailpipe and this thing has a smooth idle, so I don't think the rings are fucked up at all. I have to get a compression tester to completely confirm, but this is more of a recent issue.

MAIN QUESTION: I know the IACV needs it's own source from the intake, but on my custom intake pipe, there are only 2 nipples. Since the blow-off valve has it's own check valve, I should be fine just "T-ing" into that connection at the intake pipe, yes? If so, I can move on the next part of adding the necessary connection to the intake pipe for when I actually do get into boost and the pipe is sucking in air. Forgot how necessary that was until I did some reading last night. I understand the check valve locations, so they would be in the correct spot, but I feel the hose routing and size is just not enough. And I learned about how bad it is to have too much crankcase pressure, so I want to get this right. Design options are below...

Stock-ish setup with added check valve and larger hoses


improved catch can design with check valves and larger hose diameter (with y-fitting to connect each nipple to CC)


I know this thread has been changing subject matter here and there, but I got some of the best minds in here, and I am very motivated to learn and get these issue fixed. Going to school for aerospace engineering, I completely understand the importance for things to operate effectively and efficiently as possible. So, once again, I really appreciate all the help from all of you =)
 
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Piratetip

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Forgive me if I am wrong but that screw you are adjusting, I don't think it has anything to do with the PCV.

Looks to me it's adjusting something for those 2 small vacuum lines at the top.
Though I don't know why it's even there.

See this backside of the throttle body. PCV ports through on the other side closer to the firewall. download_20200405_114830.png
download_20200405_115422~2.jpg

On the catch can topic.
My opinion is they are utterly useless.
They just further complicate the PCV system, add more connections, more chance of increased flow resistance, more weight, more crap under the hood.
The crankcase gasses entering the intake manifold / front of the turbo aren't going to hurt anything. It's better for emissions and a shorter path
You can mitigate the little bit of oil buildup by running some PCV cleaner through those ports every once and awhile if you would like.
If there is a large amount of blowby or oil residue, there are other underlying issues. Bad blowby, bad rings, something else.

Keep the crankcase under some vacuum at all times if possible.

On your continued electronic gremlin.
Just pull stuff apart until you find the bad connection, cut it out and replace it.
I would do that before trying to run a 2nd wire to bypass it.
You already know the area it's in, once you get it apart to see all the connections it should be easy to spot. Likely bad corrosion, blackened from increased resistance or broken wires or something.
 

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On your question for PCV fitting pre turbo.
I would weld in a new fitting and attach the PCV hose there. Straight in, NO elbow.

Your IACV elbow at that pipe is probably ok, but I would recommend eliminating the elbow for the BOV.
It necks down the ID and restricts flow, might cause turbo surging if it's not able to evacuate the charge pipe fast enough when coming off throttle.
 

the t3d

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On your question for PCV fitting pre turbo.
I would weld in a new fitting and attach the PCV hose there. Straight in, NO elbow.

Your IACV elbow at that pipe is probably ok, but I would recommend eliminating the elbow for the BOV.
It necks down the ID and restricts flow, might cause turbo surging if it's not able to evacuate the charge pipe fast enough when coming off throttle.
You know, I agree. I do think adding the check valve to the intake pipe side for under boost will help improve the vacuum pull only from the valve covers, but adding the extra piping, extra bends, and crap, all will either reduce or waste the vacuum pull from the throttle body. I had to order a check valve that will get here on Wednesday, and I can increase the hose inside diameter and reduce the lengththis way.

I have this setup for a good while with the BOV like it is, but I suppose even just turning it around could reduce the hose length. The bends are pretty smooth though. In the meantime, since I have no access to a welder or a shop during all this, which intake pipe nipple would you recommend to tap into, the BOV or the IACV? I'm thinking the BOV, since I'm staying out of boost anyway.

As far as the TB screw is concerned, now that I see the inside, I think you're right. I would even say that when the screw is undone I am taking away from the vacuum through those nipples. They are recirculated, but it would be less direct.

This spontaneous crankcase pressure issue has me a bit concerned though. Wouldn't the car be smoking out the exhaust if the rings were worn? They are new rings, and minus the first day, I they seated as they should. Vacuum is super strong, all initial smoking stopped, idle is smooth as can be. Oil pressure is like 12psi at idle with the pump shimming mod, and within spec at higher rpm. And the car seriously has never felt better. Acceleration is smooth. I'm staying out of boost until the motor has a few hundred more mile on it. Will a compression test tell me what I need to know about the rings?
 

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I would start with a leakdown and compression check. See what that shows.
It will at least tell you if things are in the normal range or not.
If they are good, focus the attention somewhere else.
Otherwise you will have the answer.
My suspicion is there will be 1 bad cylinder, but for your case I hope I am wrong.

If you have to T into somewhere before making a more permanent solution, I would do the BOV location.
 
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the t3d

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I would start with a leakdown and compression check. See what that shows.
It will at least tell you if things are in the normal range or not.
If they are good, focus the attention somewhere else.
Otherwise you will have the answer.
My suspicion is there will be 1 bad cylinder, but for your case I hope I am wrong.

If you have to T into somewhere before making a more permanent solution, I would do the BOV location.
God, I hope you're wrong too (in a good way). So what happens if there is a bad cylinder? The motor is shot? She's on her last cut for the cylinder bores.

My check valves came in, so I can at least plumb it all up back to stock and a check valve now. And possibly fix the B+ wire. But I'll have to wait a couple days. I gotta a big test tomorrow. I'll try and get a hold of a compression tester by then too. I'll keep this thread updated as I make more progress. Thanks again dude. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
 

the t3d

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My dudes, check this shit out. Like really?
Vidyah






Finding a check valve over 1/2" is a pain in the ass if it's not a AN fitting. But I found one on ebay that I am going to order that should work. I am pretty much sticking with the stock system, but with a check valve located before the intake pipe. I'm not going to run the car until that valve comes in and gets installed. I may fix the B+ wire while I am waiting. I am happy to know that at the very least, this was a significant factor in causing the crankcase restriction. That port with the little wad of paper towel is pretty solid and was literally blocking the only passage of suction. I will be updating this as soon as I get my check valve installed.
 

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Interesting find.

That would be a serious restriction.
Hopefully that will do it!
 

the t3d

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Interesting find.

That would be a serious restriction.
Hopefully that will do it!
Right??? I also got a brand new updated version dipstick to replace my shitty bent one.

Sucks I have to wait for this check valve to get shipped here, which is like a fuckin week. These silicon hoses are like 5/8" and check valves that big were a pain to find with barbs instead of AN fittings.

And to replace the broken B+ wire I'm gonna have to disconnect the battery again, so I'll be clearing out the memory again. Didn't want to do that, I don't need anything accidentally hitting ground unnecessarily.
 

the t3d

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On your continued electronic gremlin.
Just pull stuff apart until you find the bad connection, cut it out and replace it.
I would do that before trying to run a 2nd wire to bypass it.
You already know the area it's in, once you get it apart to see all the connections it should be easy to spot. Likely bad corrosion, blackened from increased resistance or broken wires or something.
Junction box connector analysis

Junction box spade terminals to harness/connector


Noticeable hot spots on the connector terminals, but no broken wires



I marked the connector where the wires go. The retaining clips seem unbroken, so that's good.



Do replace these with aftermarket terminals that hold much firmer or do I pinch the current ones for a better bite? If I replace them, I can replace both wires with new female spade ends and run new wires and pins to the connector to ensure fresh copper is there for both. I may go that route, but let me know what you think! I'm gonna start working on the PCV system with my new check valve.
 

Piratetip

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Replace the terminals, also check the wire to see if it's gone green (oxidized copper) underneath the insulation.

Use a proper crimping tool as well.

Are you able to pull out the male side of that connector also?
I would look at those as well.

At least you are finding some evidence of high resistance. Getting somewhere!
 

Piratetip

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OEM replacement terminals are available.
Use some calipers and measure the dimensions.

Compare them to these and find the right one:

There are a lot of decent crimping tools here.
They certainly aren't the best, but they are decent for the cost.
I use this for a lot of basic wiring stuff: Open Barrel Crimp Tool For 14 - 24 AWG

Here is an example of those style crimps for something I am working on. (For work)
 

the t3d

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OEM replacement terminals are available.
Use some calipers and measure the dimensions.

Compare them to these and find the right one:

There are a lot of decent crimping tools here.
They certainly aren't the best, but they are decent for the cost.
I use this for a lot of basic wiring stuff: Open Barrel Crimp Tool For 14 - 24 AWG

Here is an example of those style crimps for something I am working on. (For work)

Cycleterminal is the man. That's where I got new pins and connectors from for rebuilding the CPS. I have a crimping tool just like that one. I bought it off amazon for the same job. These seem to be the second one from the top of that list. There is no locking tab on the bottom, just from the top that just keeps it in place. I don't know if I like that stock design. It allows for too much wiggle room. Using the spade terminals I have, I am going to test and see how sturdy they are inside the connector. The connector has 2 unused slots so I can test them there.

The opposite ends of these wires that goes to the harness connector, C1, you can see the ground wire shielding has split a bit for like almost 2 inches leaving some of the wire exposed. Looks a bit green in there. I have extra pins for that connect from the CPS build, so i am going to replace the wire (ground and B+) from the Junction Box to that connector. All new terminal ends, wire seals, and wires. When connecting my small wire adapters I made to test the functionality of the pre- and post-relay operation, I checked both the ground and B+ from essentially the top of the JB to the spades sticking out the bottom. No resistance issues at all when tugging, pulling, shaking, and tapping. I really think this intermittent high resistance spikes stems from this poor connection within the connector and the corrosion along the wires themselves. I really can't wait to just make my entire engine harness. This is some tedious shit. I will probably order those one on cycleterminal.com as well, but I was to see how well my ends hold up, because who knows how long shipping will be with all this shit going on. I would even consider replacing all the wires terminal ends in that connector. And possibly even that connector. If anyone has a link to that connector, I'll replace that shit too.
 
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the t3d

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Black-red is your B+ wire. Does it measure high resistance across the terminal when you move it?
The significant resistance values I got was when the connector was connected and I was probing from the back, inside the connector, and the other end at the spade going into the top, where the relay plugs in.
 

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Sounds like you have it under control.
 

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Hey I drove mine twice today with NO issues. :)
LOL !

Good work on the connectors.
 

the t3d

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I spent the majority of the evening working on this sucker and I'm glad I ordered the new connector and terminals, because I couldn't figure out why this wire kept popping out every time I connected the connector. The added width of the stock brass terminal acts as the stopper to prevent the wire from backing out. My terminals were too narrow and wouldn't lock in. Now I'll probably have to wait at least a week before the replacements come in.


I decided to just jump to the check valve project and that went much smoother lol



So, now she will sit until these new parts come in. GREAT!
 

the t3d

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Also, has anyone ever opened up the junction box? I'm curious but don't wanna break anything at this point lol
 

the t3d

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Hey I drove mine twice today with NO issues. :)
LOL !

Good work on the connectors.
Sounds like you have it under control.
Soooo, the control has been lost. I decided to explore deeper while I am waiting for these new spade terminals and connector to come in. I forgot these are completely removable, but as you can see there are 2 possibly plastic rivets keeping the top section fixed to the molded housing. The bottom part is completely fixed and molded and all the male spade terminals poke through it. Before I drill these out, I want to see if anyone has ever opened one of these up and knows the risks of doing so? I wish I had a spare to compare and experiment with to reduce of the risk ruining this one, but I really want to open it up lol


 

Piratetip

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I would just go for it.
A couple plastic metled fixture points are trivial IMO.
Unless you are trying to keep the vehicle Haggerty Auction original.

There are a number of ways to re-affix that down again.

I would guess underneath is just going to be a bunch of flat metal buss bars interconnecting everything.
There might be some rivets, those would be the points I would look at.
Though it could be short wires, have to open it to find out.
 

the t3d

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I would just go for it.
A couple plastic metled fixture points are trivial IMO.
Unless you are trying to keep the vehicle Haggerty Auction original.

There are a number of ways to re-affix that down again.

I would guess underneath is just going to be a bunch of flat metal buss bars interconnecting everything.
There might be some rivets, those would be the points I would look at.
Though it could be short wires, have to open it to find out.
lol no Haggerty Auction shit here. I'll be careful, but yeah I'm going to open it up today. I've noticed the EFI Main relay get hot randomly for years now, so I want to see if there's any excess corrosion in there since I'm replacing everything else along that circuit. Thanks for the input man.
 
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Piratetip

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I am curious to see inside.
Post up some photos when you get in there.
 

the t3d

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I am curious to see inside.
Post up some photos when you get in there.
After some wine and chocolate chip cookies, I was ready to tackle this bitch. Here she is. Watch videos first and then look at the close-up pictures of the guts. I didn't break anything, so I was pretty happy.
The initial reveal
The whole package...

Now, for some pictures...
Be careful not to drill too deep


Stage 1 separation...


Corrosion much?




The relay side...


These fuckers are replaceable. We need to find out where to get them.


Is replacing these little contacts and lightly sanding the corrosion off enough, or is it just best to replace the unit? Well worth the time opening this up BTW. Would recommend. I almost feel this should be it's own post. You can't find pictures of these opened up anywhere online.
 

Piratetip

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Ah so it is buss bars, cool.

Is it just me or do those female Spade connectors look like shit on the top side?
Must have gotten too much moisture at some point.
The bottom side looks mostly good though, couple small areas to clean up corrosion I see.

I don't know offhand where to source those, but I would definately replace them.

Pull one of each of those female Spade terminals off and take some good detailed photos / measurements.
Looks like there are at least 2 different ones there.
 
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Ah so it is buss bars, cool.

Is it just me or do those female Spade connectors look like shit on the top side?
Must have gotten too much moisture at some point.
The bottom side looks mostly good though, couple small areas to clean up corrosion I see.

I don't know offhand where to source those, but I would definately replace them.

Pull one of each of those female Spade terminals off and take some good detailed photos / measurements.
Looks like there are at least 2 different ones there.
My guess is that someone removed the dielectric grease hence the corroded tops.

those female spades look like the typical crimp on spades used on wires? How intresting!
 

Piratetip

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@the t3d
I will be sending you a PM shortly.
I've already asked Corsa Technic to look into sourcing this connector.
Just need some measurements from you.

@figgie
Where are female spades like this with the same width base for crimping?
I can't find anything.
Closest I can find is PCB Female Spades but those are designed to be soldered to a board.

Double ended female Spade or something odd.