Two Supras Obtained Today.

h20dies

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So guys, kinda thinking outloud. With the head off I'm kind of tempted to pull this motor fully, pull the white car motor and trans and then replace the clutch and mate this motor with the r154 and put it back in the white 5 speed targa.

How hard would that be? What do you guys think of that idea?
 

h20dies

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So probably will just put the head back on, drive the car, attempt to get it running smoothly for awhile and then make a decision then, anyway here is some update. Got the head back from the machine shop, the guy helicoiled 2 exhaust stud holes for me (were totally stripped) and cleaned it up good. Also cleaned and sand blasted my valve covers, getting ready for paint. The first pic is actually after cleaning the valve covers with solvent and scrubbing.

Also been running through some of the files in the car, I got these 2 cars from the original owner (who has now passed away), have the receipts for both these cars when they were bought brand new from the dealership, also service records dating back to that point. Pretty cool, starting to appreciate them more and more.
. valve cover pre sandblast.jpg
valve cover post sandblast.jpg head post clean.jpg head post clean 2.jpg
 
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h20dies

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Just learned yesterday that my place of work had a paint room, temperature controlled/ventilated so I took advantage of it, could fit a whole car in there.

here. paint room1.jpg paint room.jpg painted valve covers.jpg
 
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h20dies

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Hey guys, cleaning my block and noticed some indents by the water ports. Do any of you see this as an immediate issue and if so is there anything I can do to mitigate that? Also what's your preferred method for cleaning the block and making it baby smooth? Thanks...

block deform 2.jpg block deform 3.jpg block deform1.jpg
 

plaaya69

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Hey guys, cleaning my block and noticed some indents by the water ports. Do any of you see this as an immediate issue and if so is there anything I can do to mitigate that? Also what's your preferred method for cleaning the block and making it baby smooth? Thanks...

View attachment 83184 View attachment 83185 View attachment 83186
I have seen worse pitting on the block around the cooling jackets but as long as you deck the block at the machine shop it should take care of it. You are decking the block at the machine shop right?
 

h20dies

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I have seen worse pitting on the block around the cooling jackets but as long as you deck the block at the machine shop it should take care of it. You are decking the block at the machine shop right?

Did not plan to...
 

h20dies

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Okay guys, ordered ARP studs, got them installed and the head installed (composite head gasket from ishino stone), torqued to 80ftlbs. Made some progress as you can see, anyway tonight I ripped the wires out of one of the knock sensor connectors and I'm not sure what the best route is to correct this.. Could anyone please point me in the right direction?
knock sensor connector.jpg bare cyl head on block after hg.jpg turbo on paintd head after hg isntall.jpg
 

h20dies

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Figured it out, pulling out the crimp inside the connector am going to rewire and just wire it into the orginal harness.
 

h20dies

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I just stuck the stock wire that pulled out back into the connector, crimped it down and reconnected it
 

h20dies

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Okay been awhile since I've updated, Got the maroon supra all buttoned up and running fantastic, so far I have 50 miles of easy driving on it and it's doing fantastic. Finally was able to wash it. Also attempted a spray paint on the driver side fender. Pretty cool before and after pictures of this cars engine bay and exterior from my first post to now. Here's some pictures -

Also, with the white targa having a spun rod bearing and all.. I picked up a 2jzge today for 443$. Came with everything besides a throttle body, and only 1 connector was cut. Supposedly only 60k miles... Anyway pretty excited to see what happens.
2jzge.jpg engine bay completed bhg.jpg supra driver fender painted.jpg supra post wash1.jpg
 

gregbonny

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Hi H , I'm in need of door panels. Living in Vegas the heat has gotten to mine. let me know. PS great job I'm jealous.
 

h20dies

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Over 500 miles on the car so far, am.planning on doing some suspension work soon, been fixing odds and ends, i flushed my transmission fluid not too long ago due to it starting to hold the gears longer and it felt like it was slipping.. It starts to slip and actually won't go into overdrive sometimes, conditions worsen when I get on the gas a little hard.. So am keeping my eye out for an a340e..
 

Abe's 1987

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Ok so i have an a340 from the 1jz swap i bought. Not sure of the condition of the tranny. Im pretty sure all you have to do is swap the bellhousing around. Again not sure if the a340 from a 1jz is the same as the 7m. Maybe we can work a deal. The only thing I would have to say is shipping is going to be outrageously high.
 
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h20dies

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On a side note reguarding the maroon auto, i get a very deep howl, and intense vibrating at about 60mph any ideas what it could be? Newer tires mounted and balanced. I know my shocks are bad but this seems like something different. Driveshaft? I checked it and it definitely has some play in the center bearing. What do you guys think?
 

Piratetip

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Howling is usually a bearing.
Could be wheel bearings, transmission bearings, center driveshaft bearing, diff bearings.

At speed try in and out of drive / neutral.
Decel / Accel
This will help you get a better idea of the location.
Loading and unloading different bearings will make the sound change.
Long LH corners will load and increase noise on right side wheel bearings.
Long RH corners do the opposite.

Use some creative diagnosing and you will find the issue.
 
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h20dies

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Okay, update because it's been so long, I've had mono and been down for almost 3 weeks, talk about a brutal illness..

So since my last update I've replaced all four struts with used ones that came with the twins.
supra replacing struts 1.jpg supra replacing struts 2.jpg

Since that I have bought a two ton shop crane and an engine stand, finally I got the 2jz out of the back of my minivan, good thing my supra has been reliable as my DD!
2jz on engine stand.jpg new engine crane.jpg

I've also bought new bushings (my current ones are non exsistent.)! Along with a rear sump oil pan for my 2jz. And I made a great barter with Supra Abe and have obtained another auto tranny.
supra new transmission.jpg
supra new bushings.jpg



All in all i am very happy with how the maroon supra is running, It does need some work still, I need to get my passenger side window to work, I need to disable my alarm system. I also have a high idle at about 950rpms when in park or neutral, it goes down to 700 when in gear. I have checked for vacuum leaks and to no avail, and sadly due to my alarm system I cannot check the engine codes because I cannot drive more than 20 miles without having to undo the battery. I have observed when I unplug the IACV nothing changes in regards to how it idles or runs, is that normal? 777 miles so far on the maroon supra, and still trying to decide what to do with the white one lol.
 
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Abe's 1987

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Yeah I've heard that mono really kicks ya hard and even harder while you're down.

And yeah I got a good barter from you as well. I really do appreciate the help on your side.

And man if you have the 2jz already, I'd definitely drop that into the white supra with the 5 speed that came with the white one. Both look really good i'd say.

Keep pushing hard and do feel better buddy.
 
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h20dies

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So still trying to narrow down the very loud droning/howling sound and powerful vibration from 58-70mph it deepens it's tone when I let off the gas and decelerate. It sounds like it's coming right from under the center consol underneath the car, but it's hard to confirm that. The steering wheel does not shake terribly, I just had the tires mounted and balanced (used). My transmission is slipping somewhat, but it doesn't seem to care if it's in gear or neutral.What are your thoughts?

Center drivesjaft bearing or TC?
 

Abe's 1987

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could be the driveshaft or maybe the differential that is echoing to near the transmission. Ive had that happen to an old camaro many years back.

I've diagnosed that the most stupidest way ever. Jack the car up and had a brother "drive" it while i was under the car. I wouldn't recommend it as it is dangerous as heck but I would recommend it as you can visually see what is going on.
 
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h20dies

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So still trying to pinpoint this vibration in the 60mph -70mph range. I jacked the rear of the car up and took it up to speed and still get very serious vibrations.. Wheels appeared to move a little so I took them off and still vibration when up to speed, it comes up the center of the car all the way to where the radio is. Which makes me think driveshaft... But looking at driveshaft it appears to spin straight and true. I put my ear into a funnel and touched the transnission (heard some vibration) the center support bearing for the driveshaft (heard no vibration) and the rear diff (about the same as the transmission)

I've noticed hard impacts on if i were to let off the gas and snap it back almost like a mount on either the engine or tranny.. Or something else is letting lose? Also when in the 65mph range if i let off the accelerator the vibration does seem to worsen for a second or 2.

Any tips for further diagnosing?
 
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Piratetip

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What kind of mounts does the vehicle have - Everywhere.

-Stock Rubber Engine Mount?
-Stock Engine Damper?
-Stock Transmission Rubber Mount?

Solid or poly mounts anywhere?

The howling noise is almost always a bearing.
My guess is a bearing inside the trans or its the rear diff.

Rear diff can be very loud if the bearings are shot.

Or someone screwed with the driveshaft, and either installed U-Joints wrong or the driveshaft is no longer clocked how it should be originally.
 

h20dies

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What kind of mounts does the vehicle have - Everywhere.

-Stock Rubber Engine Mount?
-Stock Engine Damper?
-Stock Transmission Rubber Mount?

Solid or poly mounts anywhere?

The howling noise is almost always a bearing.
My guess is a bearing inside the trans or its the rear diff.

Rear diff can be very loud if the bearings are shot.

Or someone screwed with the driveshaft, and either installed U-Joints wrong or the driveshaft is no longer clocked how it should be originally.

Pirate, all stock bushings as far as i can tell. My transmission does hold gears longer than it should at times, could that be related to a bearing going out in the tranny?
 

Asterix

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Check for play in the transmission output bearing and the u-joints at the transmission end. There should be no play in the bearing and under 0.002" in the u-joints.