The Small Questions Thread

ask92

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i would have never thought of this. Although as you said it i remember i changed turbo and wastegate and it happened ever since.
The only reason it came to my mind is that is a huge problem with the BMW 335i and I've been fighting with mine for months. You can generally either shim the arm and it will go away... best way to test is get a screwdriver or something metal(since its hot)and put it on the arm then rev the engine. If the noise is gone when there is pressure one the arm then that is the culprit.
 

Jeff Lange

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Dry. If they don't come with anything on them you don't need to grease them.

Main seals go in dry too unless they come from Toyota with grease already applied to them.
I disagree, there are quite a few oil seals from Toyota that come dry but are meant to be greased upon installation, this includes the rear differential side seals:



There are very few if any oil seals on the A70 that should not have grease on them when they're being installed, if they came with grease all the better, but if they don't, most likely you should be putting some grease on them.



Unless you know the seal is not meant to be greased, I think it's better safe than sorry.

Jeff
 

rhs

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I disagree, there are quite a few oil seals from Toyota that come dry but are meant to be greased upon installation, this includes the rear differential side seals:



There are very few if any oil seals on the A70 that should not have grease on them when they're being installed, if they came with grease all the better, but if they don't, most likely you should be putting some grease on them.



Unless you know the seal is not meant to be greased, I think it's better safe than sorry.

Jeff
I've had all the seals in dry. No leaks from the main seals after ~1300 miles. Diff seals are holding well too, but only a hundred miles or so. I don't drive the car enough to rack up a lot of miles though.
 

Jeff Lange

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I'm sure most of the time they'll be fine, and even if it was going to cause an issue, that issue will likely just be reduced life. In other words, the seal will maybe start leaking sooner than it normally would have. Most often you won't notice it for a couple of years at least.

Jeff
 

mirage83

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Once upon a time there was a regular on here who would reman a CPS, forget the price but $75.00 or so sounds familiar. Anyone recall who that was, or if they're still around? I've got a CPS I'd like to put back in working order but would rather someone who's experienced with the procedure to handle it. Thanks...
 

black ice mike

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Hey guys, I'm looking into getting main studs for my 1jz and was wondering if anyone had had a problem with the washers. I've heard that people have issues with the head studs and the washers that come with them and didn't know if that was the same with the mains
 

Janch

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Is it normal to have boost spike on gear change from 8 to 10psi? Its auto supra. Would electronic boost controller solve this? I had manual controller before and still did it. WG is 5mm shimmed, turbo stock ct26. Previous time with different ct26 and different WG same happened just spike was from 10 to 13psi(right into FC)
 

rhs

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Since I've owned the car my brake pedal slowly goes to the floor when light pressure is applied. Heavy pressure doesn't cause the pedal to sink. I bled the brakes and it's definitely better, but still happens sometimes. Bad master cylinder? I don't seem to be losing brake fluid.
 

cinderMK3

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the piston seal may be wearing out. they have rebuild kits I think on Rock Auto for 30$ that might be the non ABS but not sure on the diff
 

cinderMK3

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looking for the crush washers dimensions, the copper or brass washers on the banjo bolt from the return of the turbo. (It's on the car still) every now and then i see a drip form. Was hoping to pick some up before getting a chance to take the old off, and do it all at once. I live pretty far away from any civilization.

Turbo coolant return banjo washers dimensions.
 

cinderMK3

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Very nice, I would assume those are it, nothing else on the turbo that would have those washers.

Awesome I appreciate the find!

It wouldn't hurt to have the extra stuff for the turbo just in case too.
Thank you very much
 

MK3pizzadriver

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Very nice, I would assume those are it, nothing else on the turbo that would have those washers.

Awesome I appreciate the find!

It wouldn't hurt to have the extra stuff for the turbo just in case too.
Thank you very much
Hit up Elmhurst Toyota. They are great to Supra owners, helping them find every little part.
 

sheedy126

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Anyone happen to know the blue book value of a turbo mk3?


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This is for a 92 with 141k miles and all the options minus a sport roof.

10,200 fair value
15,929 excellent value.

These are definitely not at all what people would pay for an mk3 supra however

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drogon

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This is for a 92 with 141k miles and all the options minus a sport roof.

10,200 fair value
15,929 excellent value.

These are definitely not at all what people would pay for an mk3 supra however

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Wow that's surprising, I was asking Bc I'm sure my car is gonna be considered a total loss by my insurance due to hail damage, was just curious on what they'd consider its worth. They didn't even look at my daily 99' s10 before telling me it's a total loss Bc of its age. Lucky the car isn't that bad but we had softball sized hail in my town(I wasn't home) when the worst hit. But it was going through roof shingles and ceilings freaking craziest thing I've ever seen.
 

sheedy126

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From what I understood from my insurance company is they will give me the actual car value of the area, which is very very very low here

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Janch

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Hey guys. This question goes here but i think its bigger than small question.

My Supra doesnt go anywere when warm and hot. The thing is - when warm, the more boost it makes - worst it goes, i do make 8 psi but it feels like i have 130hp max, if i let off and go with 20% throttle it goes ok because boost drops.
When cold (yes i did 1 power run when cold and i feel bad about it but had to test it) it goes just fine with no issues and feels like 8psi should feel like.
i have brand new O2 sensor.

Where to start digging?
 

hvyman

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Start with codes. Even if light is not on still check.

Then check for boost leaks.

Then start checking for bhg. Compression test , leak down test, block test.
 

sheedy126

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Quick question and I'm not sure if I'm able to do this or not. I rebuilt my 7mgte 20k~ miles ago and need to replace rod bearings and possibly mains too.

Is it possible to pull the crank without pulling the rear timing cover? If not, am I able to run a new MHG without having the block or head surfaced.

No overheating issues whatsoever, just the lower end bearings.

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NashMan

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Quick question and I'm not sure if I'm able to do this or not. I rebuilt my 7mgte 20k~ miles ago and need to replace rod bearings and possibly mains too.

Is it possible to pull the crank without pulling the rear timing cover? If not, am I able to run a new MHG without having the block or head surfaced.

No overheating issues whatsoever, just the lower end bearings.

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pull motor take everything apart have fun
 

rhs

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Weird question, but are there any tricks to increasing airflow into the car with the windows down? It seems mostly stagnant and I don't have working AC...
 

Janch

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is it possible that some antifreeze would leak out of overflow tank if i would top up fluid to max capacity in radiator? it happened after engine heat up and happened only once and it wasn't that much that came out. Also temp is normal and thermostat seems to work fine - in cluster gauge is see temp climbing and dropping slightly (i guess when thermostat is opening/closing - this is something new for me though since its first time i have thermostat in my car in 3 years :D)

engine is rebuild with new everything

20160615-130957.sized.jpg
 

Grandavi

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If rad is full and overflow bottle is full, possible. The expansion is about 1-2" in the overflow bottle.

Only one time, no worries. But if it reoccurs, start watching closely. Mine only pushed coolant out under boost. Was just one spot on the head that would allow gas out.
 

rhs

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If I fill my radiator too much, it will definitely pop off. But after that it's fine. I don't have an overflow tank though.
 

Grandavi

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It's actually an expansion tank and you should have one. It's not going to cause huge issues but it is therefor an important reason. It prevents you from drawing air into the cooling system.
 

Janch

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You got bhg. 99% sure.
I just swapped engine. This one is built 7M 84mm bore with new everything. block/head prepped, 1.8mm Cometic HG + ARP combo. Still breaking it in so i believe this should not be an issue.

and i just changed radiator cap, the one that i had looked new but i swapped to 1.1bar cap to see if it still leaks - no it doesnt. heats up to 110C though
So might have been the cap.
 

adampecush

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But you still don't have an overflow tank? Do you understand how a cooling system is designed to function?
 

hvyman

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If you don't have an overflow then that's why it was leaking out. You need a overflow. And the cooling system expands and contracts coolant is pushed in to the over flow and sucked out the over flow. Without one you are letting air into the system which is not good.
 

Janch

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Yeah guys i know that. Im not the one who wrote about not having overflow tank. I know physics and water expansion when hotter and all that....

Anyway - now im having 1.1bar radiator cap with temp gauge in it. i get max of 110C and its not leaking anymore.