The Small Questions Thread

MarkIII4Me

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^
....radiator cap stuck shut, a clog somewhere in the cooling system, etc. Unfortunately, bhg is the most common culprit in 7M's. The smoke you see when you removed the oil cap could just be condensation steaming off tho.
 

Janch

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Thing is i just rebuild my 7M. With block milled, cometic HG, arp etc. I tried with 0.9 and 1.1bar brand new radiator caps and 1.1bar has temp gauge in it. Pressure reaches its maximums point when coolant temp is 60C but pressure keeps rising all the time untill that 60C point. I was in warm garage and white smoke came out of exhaust as well. Engine hasnt seen load yet, just idle. Head has no cracks but block wasnt checked just visually couldnt see any damage.
 

sheedy126

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Was the block and back timing cover prepped for the mhg? That could be your problem if you just pulled the head and left the block in the car

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mirage83

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Something is definitely not well with that engine, as white smoke out of the exhaust is coolant burning off in one or more cylinders. Did you do the prep work on the head and block or have a machine shop handle it? Sounds like either your block has a crack somewhere or something got missed when the milling was done and it's not allowing the hg to seal properly.
 

rhs

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While we're somewhat on the white smoke topic. My 1JZ puffs white smoke on most cold startups for a second or two. Is this normal? It's always done it.

No warning lights and fluid levels are fine.
 
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Boosted MK3

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While we're somewhat on the white smoke topic. My 1JZ puffs white smoke on most cold startups for a second or two. Is this normal? It's always done it.

No warning lights and fluid levels are fine.
Most likely would be the valve stem seals. Very cheap and easy to replace if the head is off, Would be a PITA with the head on the car.
 

rhs

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Most likely would be the valve stem seals. Very cheap and easy to replace if the head is off, Would be a PITA with the head on the car.
Is it something that needs immediate attention? Or can I put it on the back burner? I only drive the car about 20 miles a week at most.
 

Boosted MK3

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Is it something that needs immediate attention? Or can I put it on the back burner? I only drive the car about 20 miles a week at most.
Shouldn't be an issue, just watch the oil level as you are burning a little bit during each cold start. My 7m had blown valve stem seals for about 75k miles (previous owner mostly, I put about 15k on her before I rebuilt the engine.
 

rhs

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Is anyone familiar with diff oil seals for the half-shafts? The only ones Autozone had look like a metal ring with a rubber insert for a 1989 diff. But for a 1987 diff it looked completely rubber on the outside. I have a 1989 3.73 LSD.

Are the two seal types interchangeable? Or is there a difference in years? I notice driftmotion's rebuild kit comes with one metal ringed seal and two full rubber seals.

I'm wondering if I accidentally got two pinion seals rather than output seals.
 

drogon

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I did a rebuild 7mge-t kept na compression. Got a ct26 60 trim. Wondering if I should use the new 11psi actuator or use the stock 6psi one. Everything else is stock except the coils.


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Supra28

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I plan to replace the valve stem seals on a 7M head I have and possibly get resurfaced. I have a couple questions;

1. How do I go about determining whether or not it needs resurfacing? A straight edge and a feeler gauge?

2. When measuring the height of the head, starting from the bottom do I measure to the point where the valve cover sits?

I'm a newb in this department. Thanks.
 

mirage83

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Quick question on A340E series transmissions. Are there any differences of significance between a USDM and JDM auto transmission for the 7M-GTE?
 

suprarx7nut

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I plan to replace the valve stem seals on a 7M head I have and possibly get resurfaced. I have a couple questions;

1. How do I go about determining whether or not it needs resurfacing? A straight edge and a feeler gauge?

2. When measuring the height of the head, starting from the bottom do I measure to the point where the valve cover sits?

I'm a newb in this department. Thanks.
1. The head should be resurfaced almost always. Unless you know its history and you know it was resurfaced recently (a few thousand miles or a few months of usage) you should plan on a resurface. The TSRM calls out flatness specs, but says to replace the head once it's at that point. The only reason not to resurface is if you're afraid the head is already shaved too much. I can't see any spec called out in the TSRM.

2. Yes, generally the measurement is from the head gasket surface to the valve cover gasket surface.
 

suprarx7nut

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I did a rebuild 7mge-t kept na compression. Got a ct26 60 trim. Wondering if I should use the new 11psi actuator or use the stock 6psi one. Everything else is stock except the coils.


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By actuator do you mean the wastegate? If so, I always use the weakest spring at my disposal and control the boost with a controller. If that's what you're referring to, then use stock.

IMO, if you're using a controller (mechanical or electronic) you should not be using a stiffer spring. The light stock spring is sort of like a fail safe. It also reacts more quickly and can be more "tunable" with the electronic controllers.
 

drogon

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By actuator do you mean the wastegate? If so, I always use the weakest spring at my disposal and control the boost with a controller. If that's what you're referring to, then use stock.

IMO, if you're using a controller (mechanical or electronic) you should not be using a stiffer spring. The light stock spring is sort of like a fail safe. It also reacts more quickly and can be more "tunable" with the electronic controllers.
That's what I meant. I don't have a controller so I left the 6lb one on but it creeped so I swapped it out for 11lb, got up to 6 psi in 5th and was around 10.7-10.5 with my lc2 I was kinda surprised honestly


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drogon

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By actuator do you mean the wastegate? If so, I always use the weakest spring at my disposal and control the boost with a controller. If that's what you're referring to, then use stock.

IMO, if you're using a controller (mechanical or electronic) you should not be using a stiffer spring. The light stock spring is sort of like a fail safe. It also reacts more quickly and can be more "tunable" with the electronic controllers.
That's what I meant. I don't have a controller so I left the 6lb one on but it creeped so I swapped it out for 11lb, got up to 6 psi in 5th and was around 10.7-10.5 with my lc2 I was kinda surprised honestly


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drogon

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Where is this supposed to plug into? I can't find anything I missed in this area



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GC89

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I believe that is a mystery unused plug...............there is a harness explanation thread with pics somewhere. (Maybe search user 92Teal's threads irc)
 

drogon

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I believe that is a mystery unused plug...............there is a harness explanation thread with pics somewhere. (Maybe search user 92Teal's threads irc)
Appreciate it man, long as I didn't miss anything haha


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Supra28

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1. The head should be resurfaced almost always. Unless you know its history and you know it was resurfaced recently (a few thousand miles or a few months of usage) you should plan on a resurface. The TSRM calls out flatness specs, but says to replace the head once it's at that point. The only reason not to resurface is if you're afraid the head is already shaved too much. I can't see any spec called out in the TSRM.

2. Yes, generally the measurement is from the head gasket surface to the valve cover gasket surface.
Thank you!
 

drogon

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I'm wanting to recirculate my hks ssqv I got the 1" hose adapter but my intake pipe has a 3/8 barb. Anyone know of a 1"-3/8" hose I can use?


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300K91T

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RE: Ignition Switch Options?
Has anyone identified alternative IG SW options for the Supra? Stock item is no longer available from Toyota for a 91 Turbo. I know there have been some other parts from a Camry that can be used but have never seen anything referenced for an ignition switch. Ideas?
 

rhs

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Are axle seals on the diff supposed to go in dry or with grease in the inside lip? I'm getting conflicting results with main seals. Apparently newer Teflon ones go in dry, but others don't.
 

hvyman

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Dry. If they don't come with anything on them you don't need to grease them.

Main seals go in dry too unless they come from Toyota with grease already applied to them.
 

rhs

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Dry. If they don't come with anything on them you don't need to grease them.

Main seals go in dry too unless they come from Toyota with grease already applied to them.
Thanks! That makes me feel better about installing my main seals dry.
 

rhs

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Does anyone mind grabbing a pic of how their dipstick is mounted to the intake?
 

hvyman

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For what engine.

Need to have the corresponding dipstick tube for the engine and sump that your using. I.e. A front sump 1jz will not bolt up to a rear sump. And 1jz and 2jz are different
 

rhs

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For what engine.

Need to have the corresponding dipstick tube for the engine and sump that your using. I.e. A front sump 1jz will not bolt up to a rear sump. And 1jz and 2jz are different
Whoops, sorry. Rear sump 1jz. I had to convert from front sump and the dipstick never fit right. I am using the correct dipstick, but I think I'm missing a bracket.
 

sheedy126

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When using a standalone ecu and controlling the factory 7mgte IAC, is it necessary to route the valve back into the turbo intake tube as done in the factory setup?

Or would it do me just as good to run a small breather filter on the valve itself. Similar in size to a small breather that would go onto a pvc vent

I'm trying to run as little tubing as I need to, to clean up the engine bay

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Janch

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guys. how much would FULL R154 mk3 supra swap worth out of 1991 with 75k miles on clock?
 

sheedy126

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guys. how much would FULL R154 mk3 supra swap worth out of 1991 with 75k miles on clock?
I've seen just the bare transmission, no slave cylinder/flywheel /pp/or clutch for 1000$. Some lately have been posted for 1200$. I sold mine last year for 7or800 if I remember right.

I'd say you would be in the 1000$ range if you find the right person. Just my opinion though with what I've seen for sale on the Facebook for sale pages

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rhs

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When using a standalone ecu and controlling the factory 7mgte IAC, is it necessary to route the valve back into the turbo intake tube as done in the factory setup?

Or would it do me just as good to run a small breather filter on the valve itself. Similar in size to a small breather that would go onto a pvc vent

I'm trying to run as little tubing as I need to, to clean up the engine bay

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On my 1JZ, I slapped a breather filter right onto the IAC when I converted to single turbo. Haven't had issues. Can't speak for the 7MGTE specifically though. Driftmotion sells a small K&N breather that will fit.
 

shipkiller

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On my 1JZ, I slapped a breather filter right onto the IAC when I converted to single turbo. Haven't had issues. Can't speak for the 7MGTE specifically though. Driftmotion sells a small K&N breather that will fit.
I did that with my 1jz and the breather was a entry point for very hot engine bay air, idle would get very lean after idling for long in heavy traffic. Instead of playing with the MAT table in tunerstudio I just rerouted the IAC back to the intake and it made everything simpler.
 

Janch

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I've seen just the bare transmission, no slave cylinder/flywheel /pp/or clutch for 1000$. Some lately have been posted for 1200$. I sold mine last year for 7or800 if I remember right.

I'd say you would be in the 1000$ range if you find the right person. Just my opinion though with what I've seen for sale on the Facebook for sale pages

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thx it helped. i might have chance to get whole car for ~1000eur. i dont think its worth to build it up again but would be perfect parts car.
 

Janch

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Hey.

Please someone take a minute and listen to this rattle. Maybe you've heard it before and know what it is. it comes on at around 3250rpm and i think it comes from turbo but what could it be? i have no idea.

[video]https://youtu.be/Kp1-jk38Bu8[/video]
 

ask92

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When using a standalone ecu and controlling the factory 7mgte IAC, is it necessary to route the valve back into the turbo intake tube as done in the factory setup?

Or would it do me just as good to run a small breather filter on the valve itself. Similar in size to a small breather that would go onto a pvc vent

I'm trying to run as little tubing as I need to, to clean up the engine bay

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No just put a air filter on the nipple. It doesn't need the hose since the engine is no longer MAF based. I bought a $10 filter from autozone(link )and bored it out slightly with a drill and it fit perfectly. I will say when I had the hood up and started the car cold that little filter was louder than the 3" exhaust haha.

Hey.
Please someone take a minute and listen to this rattle. Maybe you've heard it before and know what it is. it comes on at around 3250rpm and i think it comes from turbo but what could it be? i have no idea.

[video]https://youtu.be/Kp1-jk38Bu8[/video]
Sounds like the wastegate arm is rattling.
 
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