The Small Questions Thread

hvyman

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Remove it. You can get the fitting from Titan and put the adapter on the block. Iirc there is enough hose on the one of the hoses to just basically loop the lines.

Also if using a cooler you need a thermostat. If not oil temps will stay too low.
 

schmuckingham

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Remove it. You can get the fitting from Titan and put the adapter on the block. Iirc there is enough hose on the one of the hoses to just basically loop the lines.

Also if using a cooler you need a thermostat. If not oil temps will stay too low.

Even in summer temps?



I hope the one used in the 1G matches the threads Titan sells
 

drogon

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what do you guys think about this hose kit? I want to replace all of my coolant hoses with silicone, so I don't have to worry about them leaking or bursting on me. This kit seems to be of good quality it's 3 ply has a high burst PSI but I would like to get a second opinion.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1992-SILICONE-Radiator-HOSE-Kit-FIT-FOR-TOYOTA-SUPRA-MK3-MA70-7M-GT-BK-/331238118803?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d1f549593&vxp=mtr
Nice find I was gonna buy the same kit but it was listed at 124.99 lol I will be buying this one now


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MkiiiAllDay

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Hey guys been thinking of gettng new tires right now and was wondering what size in should get
Specs:
Now-17x9.5+12 all around w/ 1-1.25 inch spacers 215/45 r17
New- removing spacers, prefer some tires that are low profile, no real extreme stretch, would these work?
 
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hvyman

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Even in summer temps?



I hope the one used in the 1G matches the threads Titan sells
Yeah. It would be easier to get up to temp in hotter weather but if cruising on the fwy it's going to get cooled too much. It needs to stay around 170-190*f

All the Toyota filters use the same threads. But with a 1g I'm not sure you would need the part Titan sells. If it's like the 7m then just use the 7mge stud or a 1g stud with an relocation adapter or a sandwich plate with t stat on the block.
 

schmuckingham

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Yeah. It would be easier to get up to temp in hotter weather but if cruising on the fwy it's going to get cooled too much. It needs to stay around 170-190*f

All the Toyota filters use the same threads. But with a 1g I'm not sure you would need the part Titan sells. If it's like the 7m then just use the 7mge stud or a 1g stud with an relocation adapter or a sandwich plate with t stat on the block.

I was going to just loop the hoses and leave the factory cooler there with my remote filter adapter over top the factory cooler. I will be up a thermostat for my cooler, I ran a cooler on my last Mustang with no thermostat but it was fine but that is apples to oranges I suppose.
 

hvyman

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Without a temp sensor for the oil there's no way to tell that it was ok on the mustang either.

Doesn't matter the car. Oil needs to be at operating temp when the engine is at operating temp.

To do it right. Loop the lines. Loose the stock cooler. And install some sort of a thermostat. Whether it is a sand which plate that mounts the block or a remote mount thermostat. They range from about 100-170$. Not exactly tons of money.
 

schmuckingham

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Without a temp sensor for the oil there's no way to tell that it was ok on the mustang either.

Doesn't matter the car. Oil needs to be at operating temp when the engine is at operating temp.

To do it right. Loop the lines. Loose the stock cooler. And install some sort of a thermostat. Whether it is a sand which plate that mounts the block or a remote mount thermostat. They range from about 100-170$. Not exactly tons of money.

I monitored oil temps with the standalone on the Mustang, never had an issues but I spun the car hard compared to the 1G
 

hvyman

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How long did it take to get above 160*?
 

Bogwon

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Installing one of the driftmotion intercooler kits (2.5") and noticed that the kit only goes to the 90 degree elbow and leaves the 2" elbow and "tetris" looking pipe that connects to the compressor output. My question is: I want to replace the 25+ year old rubber pipe with silicone, is there any reason I should not increase to 2.5" rather than the stock 2" for those two pipes?
 

Sside

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Installing one of the driftmotion intercooler kits (2.5") and noticed that the kit only goes to the 90 degree elbow and leaves the 2" elbow and "tetris" looking pipe that connects to the compressor output. My question is: I want to replace the 25+ year old rubber pipe with silicone, is there any reason I should not increase to 2.5" rather than the stock 2" for those two pipes?
If you don't go up to 2.5 you will increase slowness.... Bigger pipes means more speed duh... Just do it.... :D
 

hvyman

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the bigger the pipe the slower the response. not faster.
 

hvyman

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Your thinking is flawed. In ic pipes bigger pipes take longer to fill and will give you more lag and slower response. A smaller pipe will fill faster and give you a faster response.

A larger turbo will flow more air at a lower pressure but that is completely different. And a larger turbo will also have more lag as well.

You can run 2.5 inch pipes from turbo to throttle body. That is your best bet.
 

Grandavi

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I found that with a CT26, upgrading the intercooler (57 trim turbo) lost me almost 2 psi boost pressure. So, the stock system is adequate for a CT26 (although there is one pipe that is a bottleneck). With my SP6262 T4 setup, the larger intercooler was needed and 2.5" piping with a 4" intake pipe work excellent. Going larger than 2.5" I think would cause me performance issues because I would lose pressure in the system (my intake/exhaust ports have no porting and am on stock cams).

You have to match the pipes for the engine and turbo really. And even the turbo, a lot don't think about it properly. You want response and power, not just pure power with no response or vice versa. I have found from reading and from actually having it on my car that the 6262 is an excellent match (with a .68 ar). However, the response is a little slower (as in turbo lag) as I don't really hit the power until 4200 rpm at which point my wheels will lose traction in 3rd. A QSV will solve that by moving my spool time sooner.

If I was a 2j, then this discussion wouldn't hold the same as they have a higher redline (the 7M doesn't like higher than 6200 if your being "safe" with the engine).

For intake, I wouldn't play with upgrades unless you were going to swap out the CT26 for a larger flowing turbo. I found it hurt more than helped. The stock intercooler and intake piping is adequate (note that I didn't discuss the little restriction that apparently is in the 3000 pipe because I have the HKS 3000 pipe replacement with is actually bigger than a stock version.
 

Bogwon

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Great info, thanks guys! I'm running a 60-1 upgraded CT26 and my intercooler piping had developed a leak or 3 being in there since 1987, so I decided to upgrade with the CX racing kit. As always, I appreciate the response from everyone here at SM thanks again!
 

Grandavi

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If you don't go up to 2.5 you will increase slowness.... Bigger pipes means more speed duh... Just do it.... :D
Just to comment on this comment. The thinking here is slightly flawed. You have to match the pipe to the application. Too big means loss of pressure which means you cant get enough air into the intake in the short time it has. Too little means restrictive so not enough air will be waiting to get into the intake.

Its a common misconception. People think big turbo = big power. That's also flawed. Your engine can only take so much air at its given stroke timing. An overly big turbo wont do anything other than increase spool time. You need a turbo that is matched to the volume necessary throughout the powerband. Same with piping on intake and exhaust. You can go too big. Now... to figure it out using physics and all the math calculations isn't straight forward and easy, but I believe its there.

My SP6262 is actually a bit too big for my 7M's needs so I have a later spool. However, it does hold power throughout the power range so I don't get a dropped boost curve at my top RPM so I am happy with it. Once I put on a Quick Spool Valve (QSV), the spool time should be closer to what I actually expected so I don't have that big hammer hit the car late in the game. It's really my only complaint. My ignition cut is set for 6200 rpm so I get 2000 rpm of full turbo before shifting. That's not a lot of time.. lol.

And finally, for the DM intercooler, expect to have problems with the crossover pipe because they used some blind person to measure it and do the bends. It wants to NOT be bolted where its supposed to (by about 1.5") and the angle wants to put it through where the stock airbox is rather than the fender hole. I just tossed mine.
 

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What all is involved with converting a pre-89 to a 89+ rear spoiler? Is it just a simple bolt on or do you have to drill holes for the extended part of the spoiler?
 

MkiiiAllDay

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Lol sorry, I saw an old past on tapatalk and replied to it and didn't notice the pages, and I think it is more involved then just bolt on, I think a couple of more holes need to be drilled
 

Doat

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yea i figure there are 2 holes further down the quarter panel that need to be drilled.
 

Grandavi

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The pre89 has only two posts holding it up the 89 is a lot different so new holes and clips. Center, and quarters. New holes if I recall correctly.
 

Doat

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I also have a question about wiring. I am getting a JDM MK3 with a digital cluster and want to put a 2jz in it, will the cluster still work with the motor? As far as I know the harness for the dash is separate from the engine harness, so it should work correctly right?
 

hvyman

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You have to wire up the body plugs in the same way the non digital cluster is wired up.
 

Nick M

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Same with piping on intake and exhaust. You can go too big.
Not on the exhaust you can't. Pressure moves from high to low. Heat moves from hot to cold. The easier it is, the faster it happens. A giant intake manifold will hurt velocity at lower speed, this is true. On the exhaust of a turbo car, the dyno shows otherwise.
 

drogon

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Is this as far as arp studs engage? I cleaned the thread with a bottom tap, didn't get a whole lot of junk out either.



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rhs

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1JZ dipstick has 2 bumps on it and no markings. I assume oil level is supposed to be between those bumps?
 

drogon

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So I'm going NA-T have people gotten away without using an oil cooler? Or is it a better idea to go ahead and get one?


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MkiiiAllDay

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Is actually usually best to get one because with the added "stress" from a turbo, your oil will heat up a lot more than na