The GT Build - (2JZGE-T)

XofXtimeX

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Welcome to my new build thread! My original build thread can be found here: http://www.supramania.com/forum/threads/2jz-ge-t-build-89-turbo-supra.73968/
(DISCLAIMER: Thankfully, a lot of growing up happens over the course of almost 12 years. Please excuse some of my shenanigans and my lack of quality. A lot of decisions were made in haste during that build so, needless to say, there are a million things I wish I would have said and done differently.)

I wanted to make an updated build thread for a couple of reasons. 1) I want to make sure I'm doing my part to contribute to this community. Just in case there's someone out there who might be interested in doing a similar swap. 2) The clean slate helps the future of the build feel more possible.

The goal with my car is to restore its GT glory with 450-550 RWHP on pump gas, and 550-650 on E85. The idea is to have the car set up in such a way that it's equally capable of a nice road trip for my wife and me, as it is for a spirited drive with my buddies. I'm not building this car to make crazy stupid numbers or to set any track records. I've owned my car for nearly 15 years and at this point, it's more of a companion than a tool for the track.

Future plans for the car: ECUMaster Black, FFIM, upgraded fuel setup, 2JZ VVTI coils, new turbo manifold, new turbo, new wastegate, new harness, repair A/C, have Nightrun rebuild the steering rack, refresh front with new bushings... And I think that's all that I can recall at the moment.

Thoughts on the build so far... I'd say this approach to the 2JZ world is more accessible, but it comes with some caveats and risks. Mainly the timing, manifold & turbo options are a bit more narrow and some require clever solutions. All in all, I've had decent success with this build and it's lasted quite a while.

I completed the first version of this build in August of 2008. The details are as follows:

89 turbo car - white package with burgundy interior.
- 2JZ-GE Completely Rebuilt
- XS-Power NA-T Kit
- "T61" Turbo
- Southbend Stage 3 Full Face Clutch
- 1JZ Bellhousing
- 1JZ Flywheel
- Apexi SAFC Neo
- AEM Eugo
- Prosport Boost Gauge
- 7MGTE Components Used: 7MGTE injectors, coil packs, radiator hoses, AFM, CPS, AC Compressor housing top, radiator, fan(?)... I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
- 2JZGE Components Used: Engine set, fuel rail, all accessories... again, I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
Power came in at 374HP & 324TQ @ 10psi.

Things that have been done over the course of the last five years.
- Fortune Auto 500 Series Coilovers.
- Arizona Performance Front 4-Piston Big Brake Kit
- Upgraded to an ECUMaster DET3 and eliminated the AFM.
- A complete rear subframe refresh with OEM bearings and polyurethane bushings.
- Mishimoto Radiator
- Mishimoto Racing Thermostat
- Rays Gramlights 57CRs in Gun Blue II - 18x9.5 ET 38s on all four corners. (275/35-18s in the rear, 255/35-18s in front) No rubbing when turning lock to lock. Occasional rubbing on compression while turning.
- YodaConnectors FBE Box & Fog Light Rewire
- Motor mounts from DriftMotion
- TiAL 50MM BOV
- HPS Radiator Hoses
- Sleeper Designs Radiator Brackets

Photos from roughly 14 years ago:
Screen Shot 2019-04-01 at 3.16.52 PM.png
Screen Shot 2019-04-01 at 3.21.36 PM.png Screen Shot 2019-04-02 at 10.38.53 AM.png Screen Shot 2019-04-02 at 10.39.17 AM.png Screen Shot 2019-04-02 at 10.40.26 AM.png Screen Shot 2019-04-02 at 10.40.39 AM.png

More to come.

-Nick
 
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XofXtimeX

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The first job to document - the subframe work.

I felt a general floating sensation in the rear any time I drove the car. I also felt wheel hop when the rear passenger wheel hit a small bump. Most likely due to the leaky shock absorber back there, but I also looked at the factory bushings and decided it was time to do a full refresh. This job fought me at almost every step. Aside from the regular issues that come with a subframe refresh, like difficulty in removing bushings, the biggest roadblock came when I realized the passenger side axle was frozen inside of the hub. I used heat, a slide hammer, more heat, more weight on the slide hammer -- and yet the axle remained firmly in place.

I took it up to a dealership where my buddy was kind enough to through it in their press. We took the time to get the hub assembly placed properly into the press. We put a nut on the edge of the axle and 1/3" metal spacer between it and the press. We crank down until we cant crank anymore -- nothing. We try again -- nothing. We use a torch and heat it up, then start cranking -- nothing. The fourth time, we try the same process, start cranking, and *SNAP*! First I felt relief at finally removing this thing, only to find out that we broke the knuckle. Then we see the threads on the axle were warped, so I call up my buddy Zach who had another assembly in his shop. (Side note: after the hub broke and the axle threads were toast, another friend took an air hammer to the axle and finally got it out.)

Then we ran into part availability issues. All in all, it took about 2-3 extra weeks to complete. But while I had everything disassembled, I stripped, primed, and painted almost everything in the assembly.

Parts:
- Subframe bushings from GT4 Performance. The fitment was super tight, even after spending about 24 hours in the freezer to shrink them, and with the assembly lube. I used the factory washers, a long bolt, and an impact driver to pull the bushings in to place. It was a bear, but it worked.
- Energy Suspension bushings for the rest of the polyurethane bits.
- Spherical Bushings from Toyota.
- Wheel Bearings from Toyota.

I reinstalled the old KYB and ST spring setup I had, noticing that there was a significant leak. It made the purchase of the Fortune Auto 500 series necessary, but I just didn't have the funds at that time. So I had the car aligned and it felt so much better - even with a blown shock.

Detail Subframe Painted.jpg Full Subframe Painted.jpg Suspension Parts Painted.jpg Broken Hub 1.jpg Broken Hub 2.jpg Parts On Table.jpg Parts Painted Detail 1 .jpg Subframe Painted Detail 2.jpg

-Nick
 
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Piratetip

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Are you going to reinforce the subframe around the rear diff?
 

XofXtimeX

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I"m envious. So wish I'd done the sub-frame back when. We'll be watching :}
Thanks for tuning in, man!

Great stuff, love a good restore build
Thanks! Glad the subframe is in a good spot. Now to focus on the rest of the car :oops:

Are you going to reinforce the subframe around the rear diff?
I did not. I thought about it when it was out of the car, and ultimately with time constraints and needing to get the car out of the garage, I opted not to do it. I saw some folks reinforce theirs, and it seems like a fantastic idea. I suppose I should have clarified, this job was done in the winter of '17.

-Nick
 

XofXtimeX

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Next was a relatively easy install - the Fortune Auto 500 Series coilovers. I opted for the upgraded locking spring perches after hearing too many stories about the two collars being seized together. I saved a bit by not going with the Swift spring upgrade, and I figure I can do that later if I'd like to. I ordered these through Nightrun Garage and I couldn't be happier with their service, or with Fortune Auto's product. Really top-notch stuff.

This was the fall of '18, and I was on the road working when these came in. My wedding was approaching quickly in December of '18, and my wife and I arrived in town only days before the ceremony. As we all know, the work on the car rarely ever sticks to the arbitrary time tables we set for them. My option was to install them right after Christmas day, 3 days before the ceremony, and that just had disaster written all over it.

I sheepishly asked my best man if he had any time to do the install, so I could leave my focus strictly on the wedding and any last-minute details. He is indeed the best man.

He told me it was a super easy install, which it was most likely going to be. I just didn't want to roll the dice so close to the wedding. The Supra was our getaway car, so naturally, it needed to be in tiptop shape.

I had been running on the KYB / ST Spring combo since '08, and the last 4 years were on a blown rear shock. I rarely drive the car given my job, but when I did, it was painfully obvious that the coiovers were a must. The car was COMPLETELY transformed. It doesn't feel like a boat anymore, and it handles better than I ever thought it could. The soft setting is super compliant, so much so that I actually prefer setting 20-21 on all four corners.

1 Fortune Auto Box.jpg 2 Coils Unboxed.jpg 3 Fronts Installed.jpg 4 Rears Installed.jpg 5 Fortune Auto 500 Series Ride Height.jpg
 
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XofXtimeX

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After we got the car sitting properly, it was time to ditch the NA MKIV wheels. These served me pretty well over the course of the last 11 years, as long as I was careful about going full lock. I did not run spacers, like a fool. I have a few marks on those wheels, as well as my control arms to pay for that omission.

Like many folks, I searched and searched, then searched some more for the right set of wheels. After the better part of a year went by, I settled on the Enkie RFP01s. They weren't exactly what I wanted, but they were lightweight and would suit the car better than the NA MKIV wheels.

But then... I was bored one day and looked on Rays website and discovered the Gram Light series wheels, and fell absolutely head over heels for the 57CRs in Gun Blue II. I couldn't take my eyes off of them. I began looking at the cost and weighing against the RPF01s. I knew the Enkies would be a temporary wheel. The 57CRs, however, felt like wheels I could see on the car forever. With that in mind, I decided to spend a bit more, and get the wheels I felt belonged on the car. After many, many conversations with Rodel, Doug, Andy, and my best man Jason, I decided to go with 18x8.5 ET37 up front and 18x9.5 ET38 in the rear

However, due to availability, I realized quickly that I needed to change my mind about the front if I wanted these installed by the time my wedding came. I upped the width in the front and found all four with David Kim at a company called Aristocrat Autosport. Fantastic customer service. The best man coming through once again, and had the tires mounted, and then installed them on the car.

Final specs:
Front: 18x9.5" ET38 with 255/35-18 Dunlop Direzza Tires
Rear: 18x9.5" ET38 with 275/35-18 Dunlop Direzza Tires
(With appropriate wheel spacers.)

Under compression and cornering at speed, it does interfere in the front. However, it clears lock to lock when parking.

Photos:

001 Front 3:4 MKIV NA Wheels.jpg 002 Rear 3:4 MKIV NA Wheels.jpg 1 Gram Lights 57CRs In Plastic.jpg 2 Gram Lights 57CRs Without Plastic.jpg 3 Dunlop Tires.jpg 4 Tires Mounted.jpg 5 December 13, 2018-10.jpeg 6 December 13, 2018-9.jpeg 7 December 13, 2018-8.jpeg 11 December 13, 2018-2.jpeg 12 December 13, 2018-3.jpeg 8 December 13, 2018-7 Resized.jpg 9 December 13, 2018-5 Resized.jpg 10 December 13, 2018-4 Resized.jpg
 

suprarx7nut

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Nick, love it. Keep up this format. Perfect mix of details, context and pictures. Really cool to see it progress. I can't wait to see where this thing ends up!

Side note in case you haven't already tackled this. I recall you contemplating what to do a while back in another thread. I just removed the clear protective film from my rocker guards in front of the rear wheels. I fought with them for HOURS.... until I got them warm enough. Once I got the film up to temp, the entire sheet just peeled up perfectly and effortlessly. I think the adhesive softens well below the melt point of the plastic so you just need to carefully work up to that temp. I was amazed how easily it all came off once I got it in front of my space heater for 5 minutes.
 

XofXtimeX

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Nick, love it. Keep up this format. Perfect mix of details, context and pictures. Really cool to see it progress. I can't wait to see where this thing ends up!

Side note in case you haven't already tackled this. I recall you contemplating what to do a while back in another thread. I just removed the clear protective film from my rocker guards in front of the rear wheels. I fought with them for HOURS.... until I got them warm enough. Once I got the film up to temp, the entire sheet just peeled up perfectly and effortlessly. I think the adhesive softens well below the melt point of the plastic so you just need to carefully work up to that temp. I was amazed how easily it all came off once I got it in front of my space heater for 5 minutes.
I appreciate the feedback, Andy! I cant wait to see how it ends up either! I think the next big job will probably be started in April, and will most likely be the FFIM, Fuel, VVTI Coils, & PS Res relocation.

Seriously?! I'll have to try that. The rocker guards still look atrocious on my car, I'd love to get those off. I'll have to try that when I"m around the car in December. Thanks for the tip!

-Nick
 

XofXtimeX

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Next on the docket was to fix an exhaust leak that had developed between the turbo manifold and the cylinder head. (Spring 2018

In 2008, while at college in Indiana, I had the same thing happen. A stud pulled out of the head, so I worked around the turbo and the manifold and drilled and tapped for an M12 x.x bolt. I was in a pinch and I needed the car fixed. Not my finest hour.

I figured the same thing happened, but in a place where the turbo and manifold needed to come off. Off everything came. I purchased a 90-degree drill attachment, thread insert(s), and got to work. The drill, tap, insert, and new stud worked great.

Unfortunately, upon reassembly TWO MORE pulled out… This was a long week. Few things are worse than when you’re tightening a bolt/nut and feel everything go loose. Pulled the manifold back off and drilled and tapped two more holes. Installed thread inserts, studs, tightened them down to spec, and everything went well. The turbo was a massive pain to reinstall on the manifold. Also, my downpipe felt like it was in a bind, and was exceedingly difficult to reattach to the rest of the exhaust. — (One of several hints that the next job was necessary. I’ll post that one soon.)

*Side note* Anyone else with a 2JZGE in an MK3 — What turbo manifold are you using, and is it as much of a pain to work with as this one is? Or does every manifold come with its difficulty, aside from units with a V-Band flange?

Also, how should I address this M12 exhaust bolt situation? I’d love for it to be an M10 stud again. My guess is a thread reducer, or a stepped down stud. Thoughts?

Photos:
1 Before Work Began.jpg 2 Turbo Removed, Leak, Gasket.jpg 3 Manifold Removed.jpg 4 Manifold Removed, Cleaned.jpg 5 Manifold Reinstalled, 1 Helicoil Done.jpg 6 Threads Pulled....jpg 7 Coffee Mug.jpg 8 New Studs.jpg
 

Piratetip

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I would use a time-sert to fix the threads to accept the original size stud.
 

Piratetip

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Also I would recommend clocking your turbo chra so the oil drain is vertical.
If you keep it the way it is right now, oil has a tendency of pooling in the chra and leaking out the turbine seals and or laberenth seal.
You have it at a pretty heavy angle right now.
 

JustAnotherVictim

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I would use a time-sert to fix the threads to accept the original size stud.
Basically Helicoil isn't it? I had to do that on my first supra, worked like a charm.
 

Piratetip

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Not really. But it's the same concept.
The time-sert is much much stronger, a solid piece of metal.
Helicoil is obviously a coiled up piece of metal.
 

Piratetip

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Honestly either will work just fine.
 

Piratetip

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XofXtimeX

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XofX, are you saying the M12 hole you tapped and helicoiled also pulled out?

You could take it to M14 and use a reducer to bring it back to M10.

Another option.
There are a bunch of different styles of reducers out there.
I'd have to look closer in there, but I'm nearly positive that my 20 year old self just drilled, and tapped the aluminum...? I don't recall using a thread insert back then, but it was 11 years ago so perhaps I did and I just dont recall. Thanks for sending those! It's good to know there are options. The current M12 bolt worked, and was torqued down. Ideally I'd like to put an insert to make it the correct size and install a stud.

About the turbo... I've tried so many different ways to clock that thing where the drain line clears. The way the tubro drain is placed, the AN hose fitting interfers with the T4 flange. That's as far downward as I could place it. I'm sure there's a solution with a fitting that will work. Either way, you're 100% right. I think that was a contributing factor to my previous turbo biting the dust in 09.

-Nick
 
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suprarx7nut

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I appreciate the feedback, Andy! I cant wait to see how it ends up either! I think the next big job will probably be started in April, and will most likely be the FFIM, Fuel, VVTI Coils, & PS Res relocation.

Seriously?! I'll have to try that. The rocker guards still look atrocious on my car, I'd love to get those off. I'll have to try that when I"m around the car in December. Thanks for the tip!

-Nick
Yup, wished I'd have known it ahead of time. I heard from many folks it's a terrible job so I was ready with all kinds of tools and chemicals. I tried adhesive remover (terrible), metal scraper (terrible), plastic razor blade (ok) and then finally put it in front of a space heater (perfect). In 5 ish minutes I lifted a corner and it just peeled off like a fresh electronic screen protector. You'll need adhesive remover and/or a patient thumb at that point to get the final film of adhesive, but it's cake at that point.
 
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XofXtimeX

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A Tale of Two Turbos

As I mentioned in my previous progress post, it was quite difficult to reattach my downpipe to the rest of my exhaust. Also from my previous job, the turbo and the drain line were even harder to re-install than I remembered. Another cue - was my intercooler piping now interfering with the strut tower and inner fender. As if that wasn’t enough, I also developed a drivetrain clunk at parking lot speeds that previously was not there. It’s almost as if my car was trying to say “Pst… Things are weird… You should think harder about this…” It only took four symptoms for it to finally get through my thick skull. It occurred to me in the gym in Cleveland, I grabbed my phone to run the thought process by my buddy, and shortly after that, the motor mounts were on order.

Along with the mounts, I purchased a new TiAL 50MM BOV, HPS radiator hoses, AN hose with fittings to redo my drain line, and OEM rubber stops for the hatch. I had a flight back to Texas booked to film a few things with a company I’m working for called RumbleOn, so I figured I’d take a day and knock this job out. I’m certain the Supra laughed at the 1-day timeline I assigned to the job…

We drained the coolant, disconnected radiator hoses, removed my coil packs, unbolted the mounts, and started lifting the engine up with a hoist. Mounts came out super easy, and BINGO — passenger side mount was in two separate pieces. New mounts went in super easy, but next came the drain line, and that’s where everything fell apart. We started by taking the compressor housing off of the turbo, and the o-ring sealing the compressor housing to the CHRA completely split in two, so I used this as a sign that the turbo could stand to be replaced. Was it completely blown? Nope. Is it tired? Absolutely.

Options were a little limited during the week of SEMA, so we went to our local Summit Racing and picked up a VSRacing T77. As you can see, the compressor housing interfered with the front runner of the manifold. Could the housing be cut and welded to work? Sure. Did we want to do that? Nope. Summit was awesome and allowed me to return the turbo. I swapped it out for a Borg Warner S366. It cleared the front runner and we were good to go! But it interfered with the GE throttle body... it was a long shot anyway. Back it went to Summit who again, was awesome. Especially since I opened the box like an ape.

Majestic Turbochargers came through with a new o-ring seal that we were able to make work. Tremendous customer service all around. So, the XSPower “T61” will live to fight another day!

Is it better to have loved and lost a turbo, then never to have tried installing a turbo that was entirely too big for my purposes? My answer: Yes. We learned a lot with this trial and error, and it made the future of the build feel possible. It also taught us that whatever the future of this build is: the turbo and both manifolds have GOT TO GO.

The new mounts, the hoses, the TiAL all make the car feel fantastic again. I’ve fallen in love with the sound of the TiAL.

(For the eagle-eyed reader, I also installed the SleeperDesigns Radiator Brackets.)

Photos:

1 Engine Lifted.jpg 2 Motor Mounts.jpg 3 TiAL BOV.jpg 4 VSRacing T77.jpg 5 VSRacing T77.jpg 6 VSRacing T77.jpg 7 VSRacing T77.jpg 8 Borg Warner S366.jpg 9 Borg Warner S366.jpg 10 Borg Warner S366.jpg 11 Drain Line.jpg 12 Engine Bay.jpg
 

XofXtimeX

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Now we come to the brake upgrade. (Technically this took place before the “Tale of Two Turbos” story.)

I learned about the TX2K meet in 2004, and 15 years later my schedule finally allowed me to attend. Naturally, I wanted the car in tip-top shape so I wanted to install my new Arizona Performance Wilwood BBK for the fronts before driving down. The last time I did an OEM rotor/pad job on the car was somewhere around 2006. They needed to be done.

I was recording the installation for a Gearhead Garage segment, and I had set aside 1 day to film it. I set up the car, lights, and the camera and got to work. I started with a complete brake flush, using the turkey baster method to clean the reservoir. After that was complete, I cut the camera off and got to work on the passenger side, following ARZ’s super helpful installation guide. This part of the install was really smooth and gave me a great sense of what I wanted to cover in the video.

The only mistake I made (on this job…) was attempting to use anything other than aviation tin snips to remove the brake dust shield. I worked and worked with what I think were gardening sheers? Not entirely sure. My forearms were on fire after making little to no progress. I paused the job, went to lunch, and snagged the real deal tin snips. Those did the trick, and the rest of the install zipped by.

Now to start filming the introduction and the work on the driver side. I tried to wing the speaking in the introduction, and that did not go well... In my line of work, I almost always have a script to work with, so just like I’d done with episodes 1 & 2, I should have written one. I did more takes of the introduction than I’d like to admit, but it got done. Lesson learned.

The install was fairly smooth, but I will say the cleaning of the hub where the rotor slides over it is imperative. The clearances are so tight, that any rust or debris there will make for a long day. Even with cleaning it, I ended up having to place the hat of the factor rotor against the hat of the Wilwood rotor, and use lug nuts to gently push the rotor on. It didn’t need a lot of help, but that accomplished what I needed to be done. Also, the shims that Arizona Performance provides were needed on the driver side, but not the passenger side. I walk through the process of installing those, and how to know if you’ll need them in the video.

The brakes are fantastic. A few thousand miles later, I stand behind my testimony in the video.

My wife and I hopped in the car a couple of days later and drove down to my very first TX2K meet, and it was great! We missed most of the Supra events which was a bummer, but we still enjoyed ourselves. I stumbled upon a 2JZGE-T MK4 using a 7M CPS, and that gave me hope for this build. I also had the pleasure of meeting the Ward Auto Racing guru, James Ward. Super nice guy. On the drive back, the car turned over to 230,000 miles. Not quite a spring chicken, but she's getting more solid after every job.

Video:


Photos:

1 Rotor Comparison .jpg 2 Rotor Comparison .jpg 3 Driver Side Done Better.jpg 5 3:4 Front Featuring Brakes.jpg 7 Odometer Reading.jpg 8 MK4 Engine Bay 7M CPS.jpg
 
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suprahero

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Car looks amazing. I wish I had the time and patience to replace all of my bushings. That's one thing I haven't done yet. I was also told that it would make the car ride stiffer...., like a jolt.
I like your strut bar. I have the same one.
 

suprarx7nut

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Now to start filming the introduction and the work on the driver side. I tried to wing the speaking in the introduction, and that did not go well... In my line of work, I almost always have a script to work with, so just like I’d done with episodes 1 & 2, I should have written one. I did more takes of the introduction than I’d like to admit, but it got done. Lesson learned.
If it's any consolation you have a HUGE margin for error as far as speech quality so don't fret it. Your production/speech quality is leaps and bounds better than 99.5% of the car content out there. A few stumbles or "uhhh" stutters would only pull you down into the 99.4 percentile. ;)

How's brake balance with the new brakes? I've always wondered if any tweaking is needed when you install those ARZ kits to keep balance in line.

Love seeing high mile cars. I'm a little sad I sold my 90 with 340k miles. One of the funnest parts of owning and driving that was answering the "how many miles" question to strangers. Jaws dropped hearing 340k. Yours at 230k is another great example of how well these can hold up with some care. My 91 is only at 169k so I've got some driving to do!
 

XofXtimeX

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Car looks amazing. I wish I had the time and patience to replace all of my bushings. That's one thing I haven't done yet. I was also told that it would make the car ride stiffer...., like a jolt.
I like your strut bar. I have the same one.
I wish I had a strut bar... It's probably the one in the MK4 I saw at TX2K. That one is pretty sweet! As far as the poly setup goes, it does ride a bit stiffer. But I'm a huge stickler about a comfortable ride, and it doesn't bother me at all. Just feels solid, and surefooted.

Very very ..
nice job bro. you make me so happy just looking at your car. and that’s my dream. keep up the good work. you very intelligent sir.
Thanks, man that's very kind of you!

If it's any consolation you have a HUGE margin for error as far as speech quality so don't fret it. Your production/speech quality is leaps and bounds better than 99.5% of the car content out there. A few stumbles or "uhhh" stutters would only pull you down into the 99.4 percentile. ;)

How's brake balance with the new brakes? I've always wondered if any tweaking is needed when you install those ARZ kits to keep balance in line.

Love seeing high mile cars. I'm a little sad I sold my 90 with 340k miles. One of the funnest parts of owning and driving that was answering the "how many miles" question to strangers. Jaws dropped hearing 340k. Yours at 230k is another great example of how well these can hold up with some care. My 91 is only at 169k so I've got some driving to do!
Haha, I appreciate that very much, man!

I spoke with Andy at ARZ about that exact subject. I asked him if I needed to alter the brake bias at all. He said not to touch it. However... He did say that the rears will most likely wear at a much quicker rate than the fronts since the rears are still factory. During the bed-in procedure, I never felt out of control when I stood on the brakes. It still decelerated quickly, and right in line. I only corrected the direction slightly on one of the several times I hit the brakes.

Heck yeah, man! I've spent so many years out of state, so my car stays in a garage a lot. If I drove it as much as I wanted to... it would probably take a toll. lol

Can't wait until you can showcase that beautiful paint job out on the road. You planning to road trip the car at all when it's done?


Finally came home after this last fall in Cleveland and picked up the car tonight. The drive back to the house felt awesome! I think the only job I have planned for the car before heading back to Cleveland in February are the trunk struts. Though Santa did bring a new Walrbo 450 E85 capable pump... I'll probably just wait until I have the funds for the FFIM, lines, FPR, and injectors.

Merry Christmas, y'all!
 

suprarx7nut

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Can't wait until you can showcase that beautiful paint job out on the road. You planning to road trip the car at all when it's done?
If I can make it happen, absolutely. With a 2-year old, day job and side hustle, life's been damn busy for a while.

I'm a fan of the Cannonball-style trips (though not nearly as extreme as the record setters lately). A friend and I drove the '91 from AZ to Denver roughly 2 hours faster than GPS estimates. Average speeds were... quick, haha. I have it all logged on my PC somewhere, but if I recall correctly we had a ~2 hour stint averaging triple digits. Anyways, once I get the car at least partly done (body, brakes, wheels, suspension, maybe interior), I'd love to do that sort of rally across the US and meet up with some of the forum members I've interacted with online, but never met. I did SILV in 08 or 07, but barely knew anyone at that point so it wasn't putting names to personalities so much as drowning in a sea of Supras and Vegas as a 21 year old. Amazing experience, but I can't recall any one person's name, lol.

If I do a trip like that, I'll log progress on here, youtube, etc... and see how many people I could touch base with along the tour.
 

XofXtimeX

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Inch by inch

I was home for about 3 weeks over the holidays which gave me some time to work on the car. I replaced the trunk struts, and I also bought an LDPerformance Boost Controller to replace my old Blitz DSBC unit. I picked it up from my buddy Zach when I visited ECUMaster HQ in Texas. Great guy, great business, and he has been a tremendous help to me, and my car since we met each other in '04.
https://ldperformance.co.uk/product/electronic-boost-controller/

The LDPerformance unit is really clever. The tech is neat and it's perfect for my needs. It comes with a MAC valve, the wiring, and vacuuming tubing needed. Estimated power level is roughly 350-370HP @ 12-13psi. Perhaps more but I don't expect much from the 440cc injectors.

Thankfully, Zach set a boost limit to 15psi through the DET3. Over the last SIX YEARS, when I got in to boost, it achieved 15psi quickly, and the dreaded fuel cut would kick in. Which is the last thing you want when your heart rate is climbing, seemingly in sync with the RPMs. It always felt handicapped, not being able to go full throttle. Admittedly, I was lazy and could have purchased/worked up a simple manual solution. This issue was on the back burner in comparison to the other things I wanted to focus on.

I also went to a Cars & Coffee meet with my buddy Jason, in his LS 240. Pictures below. Check out the license plate on the 911 Turbo S in the Martini livery.

QUESTIONS FOR YOU ALL:

1) I'm looking for higher output injectors to use in my setup. Currently running the 7MGTE 440cc Injectors (and harness) in the 2JZGE Rail. I'd like to find something to drop in and tune with the DET3. Possibly E85 capable. Any injector recommendations?

2) When I go full throttle in second gear, around 2,500RPM, and boost builds and the tires break loose. Nothing crazy, but I didn't think 350-370HP would break the tires loose in second. My power estimations could be wrong, and perhaps the tire isn't great. But I have suspicions that the previous owner swapped out the diff, and I wonder if it's a 4.30, or a 3.91, not a 3.73. I'm not around the car to do the easy test, but I know it's an LSD. Is there one LSD that's stronger than the other?

Thanks, friends.

1 LDPerformance Boost Controller.jpg 2 Supra.jpg 3 Supra & 240.jpg 4 MK5 Rear.jpg 5 Rear Porsche.jpg 6 Porsche 911 Turbo S.jpg 7 Factory Five Rear.jpg 8 Factory Five Front.jpg

(Photos by Jason Nordman)
 
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A70nut

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What kind of rpm are you turning at around 70mph in 5th? That provides a pretty good guesstimate as to your rear end ratio.
 

XofXtimeX

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They should also own shaken :)
Couldn’t agree more!


What kind of rpm are you turning at around 70mph in 5th? That provides a pretty good guesstimate as to your rear end ratio.
Just found a live photo I took of the cluster turning 230,000 miles and found that I’m roughly at 2,500 RPMs in 5th gear at 70mph.
 
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A70nut

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Couldn’t agree more!



Just found a live photo I took of the cluster turning 230,000 miles and found that I’m roughly at 2,500 RPMs in 5th gear at 70mph.
Sounds like a 3.73 to me because a 4.30 is in the mid 3000s at 70 and a 3.91 is closer to 3000. Just an educated guess though.
 

XofXtimeX

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Sounds like a 3.73 to me because a 4.30 is in the mid 3000s at 70 and a 3.91 is closer to 3000. Just an educated guess though.
Thanks for your help! I input my info into a random "diff gear ratio" math generator found on google. My inputs must have been off, so until I can get to the car and just turn the driveshaft, I'll take that figure!