T61 Bolt on Turbo by Cx Racing

2543arvin

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I see you have a 4.3 diff. Switch to a 3.73 as well as fixing any WG and compressor housing leaks/issues, spool time will improve quite a bit.
Yeah, I'm looking for a 3.73 LSD right now. I sealed the compressor housing and it helped a little with spool time. But I think I'm gonna go a different route with everything so I have the T61 an my 57 trim for sale in the classifieds section right now.
 

Inygknok

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Is this on your car yet? I'd like to hear your impressions of it, and see if they've made any changes.

I'm think about buying one from Zankoku, but I'm not sure this the route I want to go.
It's bolted on but that's about it. The igniter crapped out on me and I'm still not done with most things, so I haven't had a chance to use it.
 

paradox616

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Okay, I just installed this turbo and took it to the dyno. It did have some problems... My compressor housing is leaking but only at 18 psi. It made to 20 psi once but after that it couldnt crack 18 psi. Also the wastegate had a hard time stabilizing the boost, cause the tuner said it was struggling to say the least. However with all of these problems, it put down 411 rwhp at 20 psi and 390 rwhp at 18 psi. So not too bad of numbers considering this was on a dyno dynamics which I found out compared to a dyno jet can be anywhere from 12 to 15% low. So account 15% and it wouldve made 472 rwhp at 20 psi.

This turbo is definitely capable of putting power down, it just seems that is has a hard time holding it. With the compressor housing leaking, it is extremely laggy as well. Full boost seems to come in at around 4500 rpm, so not much of a powerband to work with.

After reading a lot of this thread, Ive seen suggestions of using RTV to seal the compressor housing. I wouldnt mind trying this to see how it works as long as someone could post some pics of EXACTLY where to put it cause I only see pics of the compressor housing removed, and I definitely dont want to mess that up. Im assuming that with the compressor housing sealed up the powerband should shift a bit lower since the turbo shouldnt be working as hard to achieve the same boost.

A lot of discussion here brings up this turbo compared to a 57 trim. Well I swapped my 57 trim for this turbo, and I can shed some light:
1st) The 57 trim definitely spools much faster and has a nicer powerband (compared to my T61 with a leaking compressor housing)
2nd) The 57 trim is much more convenient when it comes to plug and play
3rd) The T61 will make more power (not talking about powerband, just numbers) MY setup 378 rwhp @ 15 psi (57 trim) vs. ~470 rwhp @ 20 psi (T61)
4th) Price is about the same for both if you buy new, I bought my T61 used with lines for $400


IMHO, I would go with the 57 trim for streetable power, only because I still have some playing to do with my AVCR to see if I can keep this thing on the road. I plan on going to the track to see how it can manage there with some adjusting of the AVCR. My fastest ET with the 57 trim was 12.67 on drag radials. Im running street tires now, so I'll pray;) I would imagine that with the compressor housing fixed, that I would like the T61 much better hoping that I could move the powerband somewhere that is manageable.

Anyways, sorry for the long post, but I wanted to post some info that I know some are wondering or speculating about. Again, if anyone has any ideas on how to fix the leak in the housing, Im ALL ears!!

Brandon
haha 411rwhp seems to be the number, i made 411.5rwhp @16psi :)

I've noticed a big increase in power and torque since my last dyno and i'm itching to get it back on the dyno, i'm guessing round 500rwhp @ 16-17psi, no more power for my car until i can put it down :p

I've replaced all my intercooler piping have no leaks. the car holds boost well and does not spike on the standard actuator (WIN!)

I'm happy with my setup. I'll be off the 1/4 soon.

You can't hear it but its spinning the wheels most of the video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W96bnn4YiDA
 

IwantMKIII

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^I know you've done it before, don't remember how long ago, but you should just put a short list of what you had to do to this point to make this turbo reliable now. That way other people will know exactly what to do to get it to full potential before the install. I know you did the grub screw thing but beyond that, I don't recall short of browsing through 69 pages.
 

paradox616

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as i've said before.

1. stop waste gate shaft arm movement as detailed in earlier pages
2. preload actuator & install a good boost controller
3. seal compressor housing (not necessary but i did anyway)
4. make sure you have no boost leaks.

my current setup

 

scribtrack

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I wanted to put my 2 cents in about this bolt on turbo and cx racing themselves. My 91 supra was running perfectly, just wanted to do a turbo upgrade so i got this t61 bolt on and havent made over 4psi with an a/m smooth intake, 3inch exhaust, greddy boost controller. No leaks on either side of the turbo, and ive done some welding to the flapper to keep it from getting stuck open. No codes in the ecu and the only driveability issue is that after it boosts to 4psi and i pull up to the stoplight the car dies like spmeone shut the key off. I have sent many many emails to cx racing and they are unwilling to help at all since the turbo only had a 15 day warranty, if they even answer at all. Ive checked and double checked every aspect of this problem and and my only conclusion is that this engine doesnt have enough exhaust flow to spool the turbo properly. Any thoughts?
 

IwantMKIII

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Ive checked and double checked every aspect of this problem and and my only conclusion is that this engine doesnt have enough exhaust flow to spool the turbo properly. Any thoughts?
^Your conclusion is severely misguided. You messed up somewhere. You need to fix CX racing's mistakes, then your own.
 

Poodles

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I wanted to put my 2 cents in about this bolt on turbo and cx racing themselves. My 91 supra was running perfectly, just wanted to do a turbo upgrade so i got this t61 bolt on and havent made over 4psi with an a/m smooth intake, 3inch exhaust, greddy boost controller. No leaks on either side of the turbo, and ive done some welding to the flapper to keep it from getting stuck open. No codes in the ecu and the only driveability issue is that after it boosts to 4psi and i pull up to the stoplight the car dies like spmeone shut the key off. I have sent many many emails to cx racing and they are unwilling to help at all since the turbo only had a 15 day warranty, if they even answer at all. Ive checked and double checked every aspect of this problem and and my only conclusion is that this engine doesnt have enough exhaust flow to spool the turbo properly. Any thoughts?
Low boost and stalling is classic signs of a boost leak...
 

SupraSean

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Low boost and stalling is classic signs of a boost leak...
X2324654, If he would have read any of these posts in this thread, there would be no questions asked... Btw im Going to be back up and running with the comp housing sealed new charge pipes, and running map ecu by early may. Going to be shooting for 15-20 psi..:)
 

jdmfreak

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I wanted to put my 2 cents in about this bolt on turbo and cx racing themselves. My 91 supra was running perfectly, just wanted to do a turbo upgrade so i got this t61 bolt on and havent made over 4psi with an a/m smooth intake, 3inch exhaust, greddy boost controller. No leaks on either side of the turbo, and ive done some welding to the flapper to keep it from getting stuck open. No codes in the ecu and the only driveability issue is that after it boosts to 4psi and i pull up to the stoplight the car dies like spmeone shut the key off. I have sent many many emails to cx racing and they are unwilling to help at all since the turbo only had a 15 day warranty, if they even answer at all. Ive checked and double checked every aspect of this problem and and my only conclusion is that this engine doesnt have enough exhaust flow to spool the turbo properly. Any thoughts?




This might be a stupid question but did you set the adjustable wastgate????

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
 

chrislockhart

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i made the huge mistake of buying this turbo and it seized up by grinding it self into the compressor housing after 800 miles... 500 miles of 4 psi break in, 285 miles of 12 psi, and 15 miles of seeing 16psi MAX on the night it died on a BRAND new engine of the same mileage. (i got it because i needed a turbo that could pass smog and look stock) ill put up pics if anyone wants. the funny thing is it looks like the wheel ground down more than the aluminum! haha what does that say about what the wheel is made of...

be careful every one...
if i didnt have to pass smog id be kicking my self in the ass for not just going with an holset hx35 if i wanna be cheap...
 

SupraSean

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No one else here has reported that problem, i have over 1000 miles on mine and have no problems/shaft play. Still Spins freely, User Error?
 

chrislockhart

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definitely not user error. how much boost is everyone here running with these turbos? from what iv read in this thread like 5-10psi... try running 24psi for a few pulls like they say its rated for and tell me how it goes.
 

chrislockhart

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well like i said. good luck and be careful... i must have been in the 25-50% of unlucky ones that got a piece of shit. you know not every one that gets this turbo reports back to this thread or any forum for that matter when theirs fails... (i would suggest running an in-line after-turbo air filter if your running these turbos lol)
 

djdvp

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I got this turbo hooked up on my car now and it only holds 5 pounds then leaks its crap but i have to run it until i can get a new turbo waste of money and even swapped the wastegate with an hks 1 bar wastegate and still only 5 pounds with the ct26 I was able to boost under fuel cut or really spark cut but since i replace ls400 air flow meter and 550 rc injectors I was hoping to get more but there crap and ps they are only oil cooled and making my oil 215 degrees there p.o.s.
 

Poodles

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Read the thread, the solution to your issues was already posted.

Plus the remark about only being oil cooled is a bit pointless as there are tons of turbos that are oil cooled only, it's not the turbo's fault.
 

SupraSean

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Well Got the engine/trans back in last night, comp housing is sealed, all pipes sealed. another week or two and I'll See what this turbo can really do. And really people, Read the whole thread before you post useless nonsense. Kthxbye
 

gachax

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Here's my experience with the turbo.
I fixed all the issues mentioned in the thread, reused the WG from stock CT26 as it seemed to have a stiffer spring. Turned the boost up to 20-24PSI. The full boost comes late - about 4k RPM, but it's significantly more power than CT26 and it doesn't stop pulling till the redline (which comes pretty fast from 4k), though the stock wheels doesn't spin in 3rd as someone mentioned here... I haven't got much experience with big turbo cars, but the turbo lag kills the fun on the street.

Anyway, after about 600km boosting and cruising seals of the turbo got blown out. I inspected the shaft play and it's about 1mm already - the wheel doesn't touch the walls yet but it's very close. So I took the turbo for a rebuild. Guys just called me and said the turbo wasn't properly balanced. And when disassembled they saw that turbine side bearing was overheated, most likely due to the restrictor I put for the oiling. I used the flange for the oiling which came together with lines (a standard kit for T4). Bored out the oiling hole to 2mm which as far as I had found is about the right size for journal bearing type turbos. They say I shouldn't use the restrictor at all, so I was wrong.
The rebuild will cost me about $400 - the turbo was about $650 shipped, so I'm not sure it was worth it. On the other hand it's better to screw up a cheap turbo rather than an expensive one.

chrislockhart, did you use an oil restrictor?



My engine mods, if that's relevant - JE pistons, Eagle rods, ARP - head studs, main studs, HKS 2MM MLS, stiffer valve springs, IC kit from cxracing, MBC, MAFT gen2, RC 550cc injectors, Lexus AFM, Bosch BOV, Apexi air filter, Walbro FP, non-Aeromotive FPR, WB uego and other vital gauges.
 

gachax

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Ok, I think I spread misinformation on the turbo. I got the rebuilt turbo from the workshop, installed it according to the instructions they gave, and nothing's changed (except the money in the pocket) - smoke all over the street. It could be a lot of things causing that and clearly it isn't the turbo. I hate myself now... Supra just finds twisted ways of humiliating me.
 

drewmiller5007

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hey guys, as you can see below i have sealed off the compressor housing and preloaded the wastegate by 5 turns. i will be letting the rtv sit overnight and reinstall the turbo tomorrow and see what happens. btw this is my second t61 the first one had a bad rear seal so it just poured oil into the exhaust. anyways i am hoping to cermatic coat the hot side soon and see if that helps any.
 

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gachax

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A little update since I've started posting here.
As mentioned turbo is fine, but it 100% was leaking through seals. It could be clearly seen as both sides were in oil and exhaust manifold and the exhaust entrance of the turbo was dry. I went back to workshop and they tested it took it apart, cleaned everything, and tested again and there were no signs of leaking oil. I watched the whole process and the turbo was indeed fine.
I noticed the oil pressure on the balancing machine was 2bar (29psi) at max. On a cold start I get 60psi and pretty much the same when hot under the boost. The oil pump is shimmed, oiling system is not stock anymore - it's with a thermostat and I've got Accusump installed, which means I can theoretically get max oil pressure at idle right after boosting.
The other thing is the oil return line is not really straight and I bet that's the cause for the issue. Hopefully it is, otherwise I have no other options as to mess with an oil pressure and restrictor on the turbo is not really an option as that was one of the reasons for the turbo rebuild in the first place.
 

Poodles

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Turbo oil seals are labyrinth seals, they don't actually seal against the pressure. That's why the drain is so important, if there is a backup of any kind, you will leak oil out of the turbo.
 

drewmiller5007

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so after i reinstalled the turbo i went out and boost seems to come on faster and harder. however when i went out to do a full pull i blew one of my intercooler pipes so after i get that settled i will go out for a full pull and see what kind of psi i can get it to hold with the pre-load of 5-6 turns of the wastegate i put on it.
 

2543arvin

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I just recently sold this turbo and went with a Precision 6262. I fixed all the issues with this turbo that has been described here and it still felt way too laggy for this size turbo. I had full boost at like 4300 RPM and on a stock rebuilt head, I didnt exactly have 9k RPMs to work with. I know a lot of you are going to say that this turbo is great, but I have to speculate that you havent used many turbos. The 6262 is around 900 new and can be had used for fairly cheap.

After adding up the cost of going with Precision it comes to around 1300 for everything:
Turbo- 600 (used with only 200 miles)
Manifold- 250
Tial Wastegate- 300
Downpipe- 150 (fabricated)
Oil Lines and misc-50

Even though the CX racing T61 is very inexpensive, it is a very laggy turbo for the street and I could accept that if it were a 67 mm turbo or something bigger but for its size, I wasnt happy with it. And I made 472 whp at 20 psi, so its not because it wasnt making power, its just that it was power on the dyno and not on the street. To each his own, but I figured I would put my 2 cents in.

Thanks,
Brandon
 

dubsupra209

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I just recently sold this turbo and went with a Precision 6262. I fixed all the issues with this turbo that has been described here and it still felt way too laggy for this size turbo. I had full boost at like 4300 RPM and on a stock rebuilt head, I didnt exactly have 9k RPMs to work with. I know a lot of you are going to say that this turbo is great, but I have to speculate that you havent used many turbos. The 6262 is around 900 new and can be had used for fairly cheap.

After adding up the cost of going with Precision it comes to around 1300 for everything:
Turbo- 600 (used with only 200 miles)
Manifold- 250
Tial Wastegate- 300
Downpipe- 150 (fabricated)
Oil Lines and misc-50

Even though the CX racing T61 is very inexpensive, it is a very laggy turbo for the street and I could accept that if it were a 67 mm turbo or something bigger but for its size, I wasnt happy with it. And I made 472 whp at 20 psi, so its not because it wasnt making power, its just that it was power on the dyno and not on the street. To each his own, but I figured I would put my 2 cents in.

Thanks,
Brandon
defiantly agree with you about the precision 6262 is very well priced
 

suprafanatic

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so does anybody have anything good to prove with this turbo? getting another 7m that stock with a fully built motor, looking to get a bolt on turbo.... looks like these turbo's got more expensive since the last time i looked at them 2 years ago on ebay. Any advice with this turbo at this point?