Suspension hardware questions

sinistar_xx

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Just to add to the spring insulator portion of this thread, I thought I found a potential alternative to the MasterPro or Energy Suspension insulators with one from Centric, which is clearly labeled for "front upper" coils and compatible with a MK3 Supra. The were no dimensions advertised, so I took a chance and just got them today. See pic below. The new Centric part is on the far right. Not even close. If I needed one for the bottom of the front springs, it would work, but obviously not the top side.


Haven't found anything else yet, so probably will have to go with MasterPro...

centric upper spring insulators.jpg
 
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yhatzee89

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Energy Suspension makes a set of poly isolators that fit nice and tight for the front spring, I can’t remember the P# off the top of my head but I’m sure I could find it
D3EE5912-923F-41C8-AC16-513A70E8CC25.jpeg
 

Kamikaizen

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Energy Suspension makes a set of poly isolators that fit nice and tight for the front spring, I can’t remember the P# off the top of my head but I’m sure I could find it
Curious about this too. It looks quite a bit different from what I went with but definitely would like to know the p/n or what model it's made for.
 

Hacknsmack

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Did you guys figure out a solution for the front spring isolator? Was thinking about double stacking the O’reilly ones so at least it’s in the ballpark for thickness. Any thoughts?
 

Zazzn

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So I just wanted to throw my 2 cents in since I've been doing a lot of sus stuff on my mk3 and sc300.

#1 I think the isolator and boot combo for the sc300 will work perfectly for the mk3 IF it's not a TEMS application. It's really good since it's an isolator and boot in one unit. If you have strength you may be able to pull the boot over the tems top hat but they look like they have a isolator built in out of rubber.

Part number 48157-24010

diag_2q0TC5.png

Next, for bump stops, I've learned a lot about controlling the car with bump stops not just for protecting the shock.

I recommend using these soft bump stops which actually progressively increase the shock rate before bottoming out which is important because really, you don't want a nasty bump when you hit the bump stop.
There are harder ones and you can see the outline on his site. Basically, as you go higher in the spring rate, the less likely you will bottom out. Of course, ride high play a role but hard spring and med ride height will bottom out less than soft and med ride hight obviously.
 
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sinistar_xx

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So I put the Eibach springs on my Illumina IIs last weekend and as I began work on the rears I noticed something disturbing about the KYB SM5159 upper mounts:
View attachment 82340

The flat section in the piston hole is rotated 90 degrees relative to the actuator mount on the new part. While one could adjust the dial in the piston to allow the actuator to actually fit, with the dial at that setting the damping force is actually at its weakest.

So I don't know what the best option is for TEMS cars now. Is it possible to use tools to rotate the flat part of the piston hole, or the TEMS mount? I couldn't do it by hand.

Shame these are not like fronts, where the TEMS mount will always be in the correct spot.
So I've now invested some time and money looking into the rear strut mount problem. Going by what's available from Rock Auto, I decided to order a set of Sachs brand mounts to see if they're any different than the KYBs that loc182 obtained. Unfortunately, they turned out to be exactly the same. Same part numbers printed on the top side, and same undesirable orientation of the D slot for the TEMS shock.

I decided to make one more attempt and purchased a set of Moog-branded strut mounts, and just received them this evening. Unfortunately, again, same problem, although with Moog, the orientation is at yet a different angle, but still not with the OEM Toyota alignment. Also same TY14030X part number, but a different four digit number.

It would be great if I could know for sure if problem is really even a problem, as I'm not sure anyone has confirmed the D-holes need to be aligned exactly the same way as OEM. You can definitely turn the shaft (or at least I can on an old set that came with the used springs I bought from someone), and the inner adjustment rod for TEMS turns with it, but that can easily be adjusted separately -- I just don't know how problematic that might be.

So I will be returning at least one of the new sets, but maybe both. Looking over the strut mounts that came with the used springs I mentioned (from a '91), they look in decent enough shape that it probably wouldn't hurt to use them. Not sure what the condition of the rear mounts currently on my car are actually in.
 
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alcyon

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It must be aligned as you cannot turn motor position to match the D. For the fronts its not a problem as the bracket will follow the D.


go to 3.18 for the explanation about the rear mount D alignment.
 
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alcyon

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I made a video about the front insulators, these past few months I made some discoveries about these. I ordered RSR Ti2000 Down lowering springs and when it arrives I will install them with the fixes shown in the video.

 
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alcyon

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Did you guys figure out a solution for the front spring isolator? Was thinking about double stacking the O’reilly ones so at least it’s in the ballpark for thickness. Any thoughts?
I found out the hard way that if you make your isolators thicker than stock, your ride height will go up. The originals from my calculation places the top of the spring 5 to 6mm below the bottom surface of the steel upper mount. I actually did the same thing you were thinking off, double up the isolators. what happened was i got a distance of the spring to steel mount gap of 12mm. While its only about a 6 to 7mm increase over stock, it actually caused an increase of ride height by gasp...20mm !
So I advise you to keep it close to stock as possible. I also found that aftermarket isolators are too hard compared to the originals. the originals are actually very smartly designed, by having the right softness and thickness, it is able to locate the spring within the axis, and also support the spring top surface a whole complete revolution. If you use any of the aftermarket ones, you will notice that they don't support the whole full revolution of the upper surface of the spring.
 
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sinistar_xx

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I made a video about the front insulators, these past few months I made some discoveries about these. I ordered RSR Ti2000 Down lowering springs and when it arrives I will install them with the fixes shown in the video.

Unfortunately it's hard to hear much of what you're saying in that video as your voice seems to be drowned out by a lot of wind noise.
 
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alcyon

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Unfortunately it's hard to hear much of what you're saying that video as your voice seems to be drowned out by a lot of wind noise.
I will remove that video and make another one. But the gist of the video is about the toyota spring insulator supporting the whole top surface of the spring, and the aftermarket ones do not. The aftermarket ones are too hard and not thick enough to let the spring "sink in" and imprint to the insulator.So you only get support on the flat portion of the spring, not the round coil section which spirals downward.
I was showing how I made my own flat insulator with an additional quarter ring piece with an extra "block" to support the coil just below the flat end of the spring.
 

88supraNAftw

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So I’m getting ready to swap out my suspension, bought Konis and mounts and bump stops. I was thinking about reusing the old spring isolators since Toyota ones are discontinued. The Lexus sc300 solution is intriguing but it is pricy and I already ordered my front boots. I’m thinking of buying the o’reily ones but is there any other solution? Also, about not supporting the full spring at the top, is this the case even after bolting the suspension Together causing the spring to compress? Thanks in advance guys!
 

alcyon

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So I’m getting ready to swap out my suspension, bought Konis and mounts and bump stops. I was thinking about reusing the old spring isolators since Toyota ones are discontinued. The Lexus sc300 solution is intriguing but it is pricy and I already ordered my front boots. I’m thinking of buying the o’reily ones but is there any other solution? Also, about not supporting the full spring at the top, is this the case even after bolting the suspension Together causing the spring to compress? Thanks in advance guys!
i guess its ok in theory that all you need to support is the flat bit of the spring. I ain't no automotive engineer but when a parts doesn't do the exact same thing the OEM part does, it messes with my peace of mind.