Stick with the 7mgte or swap for 1jz?

Doat

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#1
I know this topic has been beaten to death but after spending a day searching I have come up with a few reasons why a 1jz would be better but it all depends on what the person wants and for me a 1jz would suit me well.

First off, can anyone recommend some places to buy a 1jzgte motor that is reputable?

Alright now the motors, I have been debating on replacing the head gasket on my 7mgte, which would cost me roughly $1,500 but I'd probably spend about $2,000 replacing various things, and I was thinking maybe it would be better to swap the 7m for a 1jz instead since the jz is a better motor overall. I am not looking to make crazy HP or drag race it the car will be a street car and once I get it to where I want it I'll take it to the track on occasion but for now I just want your opinion since I would be spending as much as it would cost to just buy a 1jz fixing the 7M I might as well save up a bit more and do the swap and be happier in the end. What do you guys think?
 

Doat

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#4
Lol that was quick. Anything I should know about doing this swap? From what I read on here you just need a JZ flywheel and bell housing for it to bolt up to the R154 transmission correct?
 

Turbo Habanero

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#7
1,500 for a head gasket job seems steep... Where you planing on some one else doing the job ?

I did my head gasket job for under $300 lol. Of course I had some parts already tho.

But if you price it out

$100 for head deck
$100 for engine gasket kit
$80 for oem headgasket
$130 for arp head studs.
 

Doat

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#8
1,500 for a head gasket job seems steep... Where you planing on some one else doing the job ?

I did my head gasket job for under $300 lol.
Well my highly suggests slightly machining the head since it is a 21 year old motor and to ensure solid contact, the machining is why it is so steep but honestly I just want to replace the gasket and get ARP studs so I can actually drive the car.
 

Turbo Habanero

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#11
Yeah it shouldn't cost you much

Deck/machine head $100 at most
Arp studs $130
Gasket set $100
Head gasket $80

And that's rounding up

Total $410.
 

Another MkIII

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#12
$1500 is way steep for a Head gasket. I did a full rebuild for $1500, that includes a used rebuildable motor. I had maybe $300 in various other things I fixed as well. My regret was not going with forged internals or MHG, not that i need either for my goals, but overkill is underrated.
-AM3
 

Doat

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#19
but doesn't the 1J have better mpg and turbo response? I've read that extra half a liter displacement doesn't make much of a difference.
 

Doat

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#21
Well it must be true then go for the 1J.... :nono:
I am just asking and letting y'all know what I found, this is all brainstorming anyway since getting my head gasket replaced at the shop I know would cost so much.
 

Another MkIII

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#25
I would do it myself but I don't have the knowledge to do something like that even though from what I have read up in the TSRM it doesn't seem like something out of my ability.
Its more about patience than knowledge. If you replace your headgasket and do it yourself, you can probably do it for under $500 as many have pointed out. Again, it comes down you your goals and preferences, so I won't tell you one way or the other, there are a lot of resources here regardless of what you choose. My opinion, I would stick with the 7M. It can be a pwerful and reliable motor, and while the 7M is by no means cheap, it is much cheaper to replace a headgasket than to do a JZ swap.
-AM3
 

MNBmk3T

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#26
I just did the swap from 7M to 1JZ and I am not regretting it at all. I love my 1JZ, it sounds amazing and responds like the 7M could only dream of. I went with a full standalone and you should probably do that too.

The difference between the 2 engines is that the 7M has much more torque to pull itself out of the low-end of revs, meanwhile the 1JZ absolutely sings and comes alive over 4K RPM.
 

Doat

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#27
Its more about patience than knowledge. If you replace your headgasket and do it yourself, you can probably do it for under $500 as many have pointed out. Again, it comes down you your goals and preferences, so I won't tell you one way or the other, there are a lot of resources here regardless of what you choose. My opinion, I would stick with the 7M. It can be a pwerful and reliable motor, and while the 7M is by no means cheap, it is much cheaper to replace a headgasket than to do a JZ swap.
-AM3
Yea I am thinking about sticking with the 7M for now since I know it is well maintained and only has 81,000 miles on it, so it would be like wasting a perfectly good engine. I do have the time and patience to do it and I am starting to lean toward doing myself and saving a lot of money and also I really look forward to working on this car but at the same time I don't want to damage anything. My only big worry about doing it myself is the timing belt and making sure it is timed correctly and such but I remember someone telling me as long as the cams are at TDC and I mark the position of the cam gears and the placement on the belt I should be fine, is that correct?

Would you guys recommend I get an OEM gasket and torque the ARP studs to ARP specs?
 

Doat

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#29
That is a huge relief lol, what about my question on the timing, if I mark everything and realign it I should fine right even if I replace the belt?
 

Another MkIII

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#30
That is a huge relief lol, what about my question on the timing, if I mark everything and realign it I should fine right even if I replace the belt?
There are already marks, lol, so all you have to do is replace the belt per the TSRM.
-AM3
 

Doat

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#31
There are already marks, lol, so all you have to do is replace the belt per the TSRM.
-AM3
Thank you all so much I feel much more confident now lol, just need to get the belts, ARP studs, and the gasket then I'll get to work. Is there anything else I should know or any tips or advice?
 

Turbo Habanero

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#32
Yeah its pretty darn impossible to mix anything up when it comes to taking the cams out. Everything is marked including the barings and cams have the notch on them so you can put the gears back on correctly and then you just lign them back up to tdc along with the crank shaft and slide the belt back on.
 

Doat

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#33
Sweet, thanks again for all the help I really appreciate it. I was making this out to be more difficult than it is I guess lol.

Should I get an OEM gasket from Toyota or from somewhere else?
 
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phatbimmer

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#34
Sweet, thanks again for all the help I really appreciate it. I was making this out to be more difficult than it is I guess lol.

Should I get an OEM gasket from Toyota or from somewhere else?
Toyota, Fel-Pro or Victor-Reinz. I think all of them should be good HG along with the ARP's. Have fun
 

Turbo Habanero

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#35
Sweet, thanks again for all the help I really appreciate it. I was making this out to be more difficult than it is I guess lol.

Should I get an OEM gasket from Toyota or from somewhere else?
you can get it from driftmotion.com for cheap
 

Doat

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#36
you can get it from driftmotion.com for cheap
Wow even the timing belts are cheap but the factory head gasket is $95 lol, I'll talk to my buddy who works at Toyota and see if he can hook me up. Just to be 100% sure I need the ARP head stud kit right for the 7m?
 

Doat

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#38
Yea I've seen both studs and bolts but generally people use studs and that is what I am going with.
 

Doat

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#40
Yea a friend of mine told me about that earlier that I would have to rebuild the JZ anyway, so yea lol I am sticking with the 7M for awhile but I don't mind it isn't a bad motor just pretty bad on gas lol. Thanks for the DIY info.

Now I am worried about the rod knock lol since I am almost sure coolant has gotten into the motor.