Spring Restoration - Project old school MK3 revival

Altezza576

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#41

Well the time has come to rid this chassis of the 7M. The motor mounts and exhaust were seriously rust welded on there. but i finally got em out.


On its way out


All wrapped up for the buyer. damn rain!

Tomorrow I will begin cleaning the bay and subframe. While I clean I will decide if to go 2JZ or 1UZ.
 

Altezza576

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#47
well, my dolly broke when the engine came to rest on it..... ever pull an old hoist with an engine and tranny up a 100ft driveway? ..... 2 word.... NOT FUN :) but its in the garage now
 

Altezza576

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#49
I will be the first to admit I left the dolly out in the rain for 2yrs :) next one I borrow from a moving company will be kept indoors :)
 

Altezza576

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#50
So I'm gutting the motor down to the bare block and bare head to send out to be hot tanked. made 3 different orders to Driftmotions due to me constantly forgetting to order everything. Also making a box of parts to send to the powdercoater. I am torn between a funky bright color like takata green or laguna seca M3 blue for engine parts (TB, intake mani, valve covers, accessory brackets, rad brackets, , or do something simple and classy like a black matte wrinkle coat finish.
 

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#52
I know .. I'm stuck.... I also like to powdercoat things so I can actually see the nooks and crannys on the motor in case I drop something (cause I usually do!) My friend just got his IC pipes powedered a bright smurf blue.... didnt look too bad.
 

Altezza576

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#53


So I got the 2JZ block pretty much bare down to the oil pump and crank. They both looked to be in decent shape so I didnt bother removing them. I pretty much degreased the entire block with a brass wire brush and a pint of lacquer thinner. I soaked all the greasy spots good and really brushed off all the grime. After wiping down the block with some sold towels to get rid of the major drippy dirt and grease, I blasted the block again with a can of carb cleaner that I had laying around them again wiped clean the block with some more towels. Once the block air dried for about 30min. I shot it with a coat of engine primer. I should have most of my rebuild parts tomorrow or the next day, I hope.
 

Altezza576

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#54
So I painted the block..... cleaned my pistons, lubed, reringed and rebearinged them. I will clean block mating surface tonight and reassemble shortblock and oil & water pump aas'y.
 

Altezza576

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#55
Decided to take a detour, and strip and clean the head. before the shorty build. Getting ready for a serious pressure wash!


I will reassemble the head tomorrow with new valve seals and whatnots. I figured I will just get it all ready for when I rebuild the shortblock so i can bolt it all together and call it a day.
 

laotionracer101

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#57
Just a question since your going with 2j, ive been pondering myself build 7m or 2j for drift, ive been leaning to the 2j forever now. And i was thinking maybe its possible to just use the mk4 supra ecu when you do the swap or is it a MUST to have the 2j clipped up to a fabed harnes?
 

Altezza576

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#58
LR... I have been building 2JZ motor for about 5-6yrs now. I pretty much know every nook and cranny on them So I figured I'd go with what I have experience with. Since the 2JZ is very durable & common in Lexus and Toyota cars from 1993-2005, there is a lot of support for me with regards to used & new parts and aftermarket. The 7M support is kind of fading. It is very easy to wire up your own harnesses if you have an MK4 or SC300 ECU Its just like matching one wire to the next with some time and patience along with the wire pinout for a 2JZ and 7M it is very possible. Hope that helps
 

Altezza576

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#59


OK, I got the shortblock reassembled today. I also tapped and drilled the oil pan for an oil return. cleaned all mating surfaces with paint thinner and let air dry... then degreased with brake cleaner and shop towels. Bolted everything together with a fres hnew tube of FIPG, as well as changed the rear main seal. Tomorrow I will work on the head.

I picked that stupid color for the block so I can see oil leaks and dirt buildup.
 

Altezza576

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#61


I'm also working on the body harness connections from the 2JZGE harness to the MA70 plugs behind the glove box. IF anyone has a good 87TurboAuto pinout for that big Yellow 26pin plug.. PM me. ( found info for a 1991 pinout on Supra.NL website, but I need the 1987 pinout)
 

Altezza576

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#63
I think I will give him a shout. I hate to have to pay hundreds of dollars for something I can solder up in an afternoon :) But granted, I will consider any option he may suggest.
 

Altezza576

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#64
OK got my head all reassembled.... new valve seals, and a nice cleanup. I also painted a few shortblock brackets and wire brushed the crap out of some cast iron parts and the water pump. WOW tomorrow I will be putting this biatch back together with the ARP studs.
 

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#74
So I have successfully swapped to the 2JZ PS lines, since the 2JZ and 7M have the PS pumps on opposite ends of engine bay. Made much more sense this way. I am also going to remove the AC lines and condensor from the engine bay, as I dont think I will ever use A/C in a targa chassis. I will begin that removal process once I figure out how to remove this front bumper.
 

Altezza576

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#75
Instead of buying a new PS cooler... I think I may use the Auto Tranny cooler lines inputs on the radiator and route my PS fluid though the OEM radiator and back out to simplify things. Anyone done this yet?
 

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#76


So all my lines and accessories are mow connected. I have also replaced the rusty header panel frame with a cleaned up and primered replacement. I also took the grinder to the bumper and removed all the rust and then lightly filled and sanded it then also primered it. Now I am just trying to sort out the wiring to get the car started.
 

Altezza576

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#77
Summer has been crazy......

So I was attempting to wire up the 2JZGE Stock ECU into the MA70 chassis harness, but I decided to table that idea (since this will be a hobby car/Track car) also, so that I can eliminate the rev limiter. I ended up buying a Stinger from Aaron@ Driftmotion. I have since stripped the entire engine harness off the motor and rewrapped and installed a custom harness. I also removed the stock 2JZGE Distributor and I replaced it with the 7MGTE CPS. (which is what is triggering my Stinger) In addition to that change I also installed IS300 coilpacks and the DH61 IS300 igniter. I have wired up the fuel pump to be triggered by the Stinger. I now have to validate that I am getting a crank signal. Once thats done I will begin the neatening process.

I have identified
coilpack1 to be the unit that installed on plug#6 and wire runs to plug#1
coilpack2 to be the unit that installed on plug#2 and wire runs to plug#5
coilpack3 to be the unit that installed on plug#4 and wire runs to plug#3

The firing order of the 2JZ-GE is 1-5-3-6-2-4 from what I have read on ClubLexus.

I plan to run the DH61 outputs...

C1 --> Coilpack1
C2 --> Coilpack2
C3 --> Coilpack3
T1 --> Stinger IGN1
T2 --> Stinger IGN2
T3 --> Stinger IGN3
GND --> Ground
B+ --> Switched 12v
TAC --> possibly to gauge cluster or Stinger
IGF ------ NOT USED

I plan to run the Fuel injectors (high Impedance stock SC300 injectors)
Inj1 & Inj6 --> Stinger #23 Yellow (primary Inj)
Inj2 & Inj5 --> Stinger #11 White (primary Inj)
Inj3 & Inj4 --> Stinger #12 Red/Blk (Sec/prim Inj)
 
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Altezza576

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#78

At TDC on the crank and cam marks, the CPS seems lined up





If I am looking at the TEWD correctly...
1 - NE - Trigger - #8 on Stinger
2 - G1 - Cam Signal TDC - #20 on Stinger
3 - G- - Ground - #21 on Stinger
4 - G2 - Cam Sign 6TDC - NOT USED

Strange thing.... No matter what wire configuration I place on that green plug, I can not get the RPM tuning needle to respond in the STinger Tuning Software during crank. Anyone else have this issue?
 

Altezza576

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#79

Here is a look at the almost finished product - if only I could get a crank signal.


Here is a picture of the Stinger Crank trigger Harness... I test all three wires for continuity from ends to ECU plug and they are good.


Here is a picture of everything else on the Tuning Software. I seem to be getting feedback for everyting except RPM while cranking.

I am wondering if I somehow have to incorporate that unused #6-TDC wire from the CPS?
 

Altezza576

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#80

I am gonna use Shaeffs diagram to set the timing manually since I cant get a Stinger signal to fire the plugs to use a timing light.