Spring Restoration - Project old school MK3 revival

Altezza576

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#1
So I have had my MK3 parked since August 2009. Since then I have just been assessing the good the bad and the disastrous. The good new is the we started up the car in Toronto Canada, and filled up the tank, checked the oil level and we made it to NYC without any hiccups. Driving on dry rotted tires is not the greatest move, but we got here in once piece.

A week later, I got the car cleared through JFK Port Customs, and received all my paperwork to get the car a US title and registration.

The bad news.... Strong smell and smoke of burning oil pointed to a leaking CPS gasket. Not to mention the spark plug valley over flowing with engine oil :( Although I am the third owner, and having had my cousin own the car since 1991 (2nd owner), it was still in rough shape since it was just a once in a while toronto summer car. nevertheless it stayed parked probably for decaded of canadian winters until rescued.

Bad things that I noticed right away...

Engine Oil leaks
Power Steering Oil leaks
Tranny has slight leak from front seal
Brakes sucks - warped, scored, rusted, etc
OEM Toyota Suspension sucks TEMS on firm felt floaty boaty
Wheels grimey and stained sawblades
Tires are dry rotted.
Dome light was busted
car smelled like 20+ yrs old :)
Exhaust was a hodgepodge of pipes welded together.
Paint was faded and flaking
hood wont stay up
Rust here and there

The Good things...
Car drove like a champ, boost kicked in hard and steady
no vibrations no weird sounds
Most electronics work in the car
No windshield leaks or targa leaks



FALL 2009...

So I started by cleaning up the engine bay and giving the 7MGTE a cleaning and tune up. I pulled off the no.3 valley cover and tossed it and cleaned and dried all the oil outta the valley. I dropped in some new NGK plugs and New Wires, and a new air filter. I sealed the big hex nuts with toyota FIPG after a thorough degreasing.

I decided to do a manual swap so I opted for a W58 since this was gonna be a daily driver and not a dyno queen. I found Mr Shaeff semi local to me in NY and picked up a nice complete W58 swap from him. I also reached out to honestabe to gather some misc parts for the swap. After having dome similar work on my MK4, this seems like a walk in the park. Let me tell you I much rather pull an engine than do the tranny swap with motor in place! :cry:

I completed that particular task and test drove the crap outta the car for a week. So far so good.

Next I decided to Fix the brakes.... So I picked up new rotors, calipers, pads and lines from the local parts authority store and completed the 4 hub disc overhaul. It took some time to bleed the brakes but I finally got the correct order and most if not all of the air out but using my homeamade pressure bleeder attach to my compressor.

Once the brakes were done I decided to Pull out that nasty gunk covered steering Rack. After cursing and beating the car with some extensions at one point or another, I got that grimey thing out. I tossed it in the box for my core refund as quick as I could. I dropped in a rebuilt rack and new tie rod ends and bolted up all the lines to still find a drippy drip from my PS pump. During this overhaul I already removed and flushed with gasoline, and compressed air, my PS Reservoir. So the only remaining culprit was the damn PS pump and Hi-PSI line. (Both of which I am replacing next week - used pump from SM, and Driftmotion line)

WINTER 2009/2010
Ordered my Summer wheels - Work Euroline DH for that old school hammer look I remember from the late 80's/early 90's
Junked the sawblades and picked up a nice set of 16" Lexus IS300 wheels with Yoko All-Season tires from a local tuner friend. At least now I have my non summer wheels. YAY! :naughty:
(pauses for a few months to freeze my arse off and watch snow pile up)

SPRING 2010
Now that the hard work is getting accomplished, I can focus on a little tuning now. The CT26 seems OK so Im not gonna touch it (for now) Im going to install a spare Blitz DD BOV on a custom made hard pipe. I also picked up a used BIC DDP and ST Swaybars from a local guy to begin the resurrection. I also ordered a new Tanabe Super Medallion for slightly less than the current Hyper Medallion. (I hope they have what I ordered) Should be here soon. This setup should rid me of the crusty exhaust on there now with the damn NOPI styled 5" tip RACTIVE exhaust I found hangin on there! Picked up a new CPS cover and gasket from Driftmotion to swap in to stop the CPS oil leak. Just waiting on a few more warm 60*F days


Things that are planned: When I have some hobby $$$ after paying the bills, a set of Megan Track coilovers. Im gonna also start trying to clean up the interior and possibly do a burgundy to black conversion if possible.

I will begin to snap more pics as the daylight is now on my side.


Here is the car last fall sitting on my spare VOLK time attacks.


As of March 2010, and the cleanup begins...


Works getting mounted this week.... cant wait for coilovers and a little neg camber :)

Once I start the wrenching more pics will come..... Its just hard to concentrate oon working and snap pics when ur greasy under an MK3.



I'd love to make a MK3 sibling of my clean MK4.

The MK3 is still a supra and should be treated as such..... Stay Tuned.
 

Altezza576

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#4
Well today was a long and painful day.... I finally got to swapping out the power steering pump. That was the most disgusting job I have ever taken on on any Toyota. From years of leaks and grime buils up it felt like I was working in a pool of crude oil for hours! Anything I touched got me splattered in thick grease. Just reaching down to undo bolts was a chore. Nevertheless, I stuck with it. After removing the Air Intake and Tube, the top charge pipe, and a few brackets that held the PS reservoir, I was able to free the upper mounts of the PS Pump. Now the bottom was the crude oil pool, There was thick grease. oil, dirt pudding all over the crossmember, I couldnt even see the lower rear pivot bolt of the pump. I eventually got the 14mm bolt out with a ratcheting 12pt wrench. I swapped in the new pump and it all went to gether nicely. I did received the wrong size pulley from the seller, or maybe my pump has a specific sized pulley for 86-88's. My OEM pulley was about anout 1/4" larger so when I tried to tighten my drive belt I got to the end of the adjustment slide and there was still a little slack. So.... I will have to swap pulleys tomorrow.

I also installed the driftmotion PS line. Now I think my line was assembled incorrectly because it does now look like the pics on the Driftmotion website. The website pics show the SS line laid flat with each 90* fitting pointing in the same direction which makes the total shape resemble a "U" My drift motion line when laid flat, each 90* fitting points in the opposite direction which makes the shape more like an "S" This made for a very rigorous install attempt as there is no flex or give on the hose. It is what it is. I finally stretched and contorted the hose into place, by attaching the rack side first, then feeding it back under the engine around coolant hose back to PS pump.

Pics are coming tomorrow as I could not touch a camera while covered in grease. I have a few things to clear up tomorrow and I will be available for pictures and documentation. If anyone has any suggestions as to how I may clean off the grease from the pass side of the crossmember I would love to hear how you all acheived this. I will use a few cans of GUNK degreaser and brake cleaner on the lower engine and subframe. Then I will pressure wash the area. Hopefully it will clean up so I can find future leaks.

I think most of my leaks were from the PS pump/lines and the CPS oil leak dripping down the side of engine. Tomorrow I will set the motor to TDC and swap the CPS gasket, CPS cover and O-Ring I picked up from Drift Motion..
 

Altezza576

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#7



Works are finally mounted. I snapped these pics after cleanup. When I pull the car out again I will snap cleaner profile shots. I need to get slim fitting lugs as the lug cover wont fit flush as the short Lexus lugs I had are still not short enough to clear wheel surface. I like the stance and its now nice and flush in front and rear.
 

bhmsupra

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#8
What an awesome wheel selection for that gorgeous mkiii you have there. Look a kin to the old Tom's wheels.
Both cars are grop dead G.
 

Altezza576

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#9
Thanks man.... I wanna keep the restoration of this car completely in touch with the era of the late 80's and the Supra's I saw rolling around NYC when David Dinkins was Mayor :D I even had this god awful thought of getting the chrome Rocker Trim with "Supra" etched in that was ever so popular in Flatbush Brooklyn!

Seriously though.... The next phase of this will be me installing the DDP and Tanabe Exhaust, and sway bars. (Coilovers have not yet been ordered) - When I actually receive the check for my VOLKS, I will order the coilovers, and perhaps new charcoal grey carpet.
 

Altezza576

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#11
The leather seats are in horrible shapre....I figured I would send them out to be reupholstered. and when that is being done I can pull the dash and the interior pieces and clean, repaint and reinstall. (I already bought grey seatbelts)
 

Altezza576

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#12
OK Brown hooked me up today..... Tomorrow will be a little more progress if it doesnt rain.




Better shot if front wheel


Better shot of rear wheel


Next on the list will be coilovers.... so I can get all the grunt work done on this car...
 

sirgeorgee

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#14
Beautiful Supras you got there

The MK4 is looking awesome,but I still love the white one much better

She seems to be very clean

Nice

Cant wait to see the car with the sweet rims on from the side so please keep the pictures coming and keep as posted

Congratulations

I just checked the pictures those rims are really nice
Like the Tanabe exhaust also....
 

Grimsta

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#18
Oh yeah man, the Tanabe exhaust has a great sound. Is that the current Touring exhaust or did you score one of the last remaining Hypers?
 

Altezza576

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#19
I couldnt get the old style... I looked far and wide... even Titan didnt stock the old style somewhere in their warehouse. I picked it up from Driftmotion
 

Altezza576

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#21
I'll be installing it on Saturday if things work out. and my Megan coilovers arrive on Monday. I will do a full suspension overhaul and install once those arrive and drop the car about 2" for a nice fender to tire kiss.
 

Altezza576

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#22
OK, so I decided to get up and tackle the dirty job again. I prepped myself for coilover, swaybar, downpipe and exhaust installation today. I am somewhat of a new to finding my way around an MK3 although it does share many characteristics with the Sc300 and MK4 Supra.


So after being completely frustrated about 10 minutes into attempting to remove the REAR TEMS, I decided to return to SM and do a quick how to search! At that point I gained some confidence and tore into the hatch seeing how thise thing had to come apart.



after fighting with the driver side, the passenger side was a little faster.


Finally both rears are off.

Jackin up for progress


My Workshirt



Megans are going in... I like the finsh and the fitment of the Megans, I dont know why people give them such a bad rap. I have had good luck with them.

While I am under there.. Im not wasting time with 25yo end links.... HELLO GRINDER!


I will order 4 new front and rear swaybar links. (they wont be going on today.)

Making Progress....


Front TEMS removed


I did the MK4 technique for the front by removing the long azz A-Arm bolt and letting the suspension fall outward for clearance to remove those log OEM struts.


Front Left Before


Front left after - no adjustment.


Front Right After - apparently this supra suffers from uneven stance as well just like the SC and MK4's. Same height on coils but this side is tucked - Oh well it will be fixed!


A little too teenager tucked for me.... I need pimp but functional, not "Ummm what is all tha rubbing noise when I turn?"
 

Altezza576

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#23

Time to liberate this car from the rice that infested it in the mid to late 90's. Good bye 5" RACTIVE crap!


As you can see the rear muffler section has rotted and rusted pretty bad.


Bootleg! damn son ever hear about stainless? :)


Got the old system out.... I just impact gunned the crap outta to cat bolts to break them. Notice the patch work welding and nickel sized hole at the bend.


Tanabe is going in......


After fighting with those rubber donut hangers.. I finally got this thing on. This exhaust was one of the toughtest I have had todeal with. I dont know why, but it just took a lot out of me. Im usually pretty quick with them but maybe since it the first time under the car I had to do things the hard way first! :)

The fitment and finish of the Tanabe is superior to most others.... I would have loved to support a local fabbed vendor here but they all were taking too long to stock. Either way I picked up the Medallion from Driftmotion. The exhaust is very quiet... it seems like stock (which I love) I have a few holes in the OEM downpipe that I will fix by installing the BIC DDP. Once I clean up all the leaks I can then appreciate the exhaust :)


So... I now have to order 4 end links. When they get here I will install the swaybars (going to ge another cutting wheel and some metal sawzall blades to quickly remove this old leftovers.... adjust the ride height on all 4 corners of the Megan coilovers. Maybe I will paint the fender liners black again since the car has been painted a few times with no fender liner masking by previous owner. I will then install the short lugs and locks and install the caps of the EurolineDH wheels.

Stay tuned for more updates.
 

Altezza576

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#25
Now I am debating if I should reinstall the hatch trim, or gut it all out sand and fix the rust and repaint it pearl white. (For a clean track car look) or.... maybe Dynamat Black the entire thing.
 

mkiii-1jz

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#26
Nice work! You're making great progress and I like your choice for the exhaust.

I agree with you about the Megan coilovers. I've had my set for over a year and I've had no problems with them. My car is not a DD, so the spring rates are not an issue for me.
 

Altezza576

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#27
While I am awaiting swaybars links to arrive.... I am pondering a engine swap. I'd like to do a 1UZ, but I think a 1JZ is much more realistic with the timelines I have set for myself. I have a few questions here in the motor swap forum: request for 1JZ info
 

Altezza576

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#28


Pulled out the Supra today before it gets the 7M yanked out :) Coils definitely need to be levelled off.
 
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Altezza576

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Wow, after what feels like an eternity with an angle grinder.. I have now cut off all the OEM swaybar links. I cleaned and regreased all the bushings on the swaybars. and reinstalled the front and rears. This was a daunting task as these OEM bolts were rusted to hell and back. Not to mention the lack of clearance on the passenger rear side, as the fuel tank strap is completely in the way of removing the sway bar bracket. took me like 20min with a 12mm wrench.. to ease that sucker out and back in! All I have to say is ... thank goodness for Liquid Wrench! Front swaybar was a hot mess due to grease party. Thanks to USPS for allegedly trying to deliver my new sway links and claiming i wasnt home all Saturday so now I gotta go grab them at the post office and install just the end links tomorrow eve. ugh..... few more steps till the hard work is done.
 

Altezza576

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#32
Once I get these end links installed .... Im gonna take the car for an alignment, then I will pull out the 7M drivetrain.
 

Altezza576

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#35
So I get my swaybar end links from Tawain eBay seller... all 4 for $80. That crazy chinaman.. .he sends me four of the same links. I was very hesitant to install them, but it seems that they fit pretty well in the front and rear. So hey.... They will have to suffice until I can provethey are not working out. I also dabbed some anti Seize on the threads so they dont bind and corrode after a few runs in the rain in case i have to remove them. So that completes my suspension mods for now.

I have begun pulling the 7MGTE out of the chassis. It took me a while to remove the Stock DP. (that thing has not been touched since the car was built in 86-87) Sure enough it was a bitch to get the bottom 14mm nut between engine and turbo. I ended up jacking up the car and using a combo 14mm wrench and a pipe for leverage against the block to break it lose. After about 10min of 1/4 turning that sucker it came off. I also disconnected the PS, alternator, Cruise, throttle cables, all the crap behind the battery and fuse box. Tomorrow I will tackle the AC, grounds, battery cable, fuel lines and snake the harness out and undo the motor mounts. Once I bust all tha free I'll drain all fluids and removes hoses and radiator from chassis.

I hope there is an easy way to get the motor mounts off the block without having to remove the turbo, and intake mani.
 

Chambers

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#36
.... I hope there is an easy way to get the motor mounts off the block without having to remove the turbo, and intake mani.
If you look from under the car, you will see a hole on either side of the subframe under the engine mounts. From there you can remove a nut that secures the rubber engine mounts to the sub-frame. That will aid in your removal.

Nice progress! Car is coming together. I can vouch for the 1UZ swap, I love mine in its stock form, has plenty of tourque right away, but the JZ engines will be a much more "simple" swap. I compared the two, for the amount of money I invested into the 1UZ swap I could have gone 2JZ-GTE and maby even a cost efective single turbo set up. Either way, good luck!
 

Altezza576

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#37
Chambers, thanks for the kind words. I have not yet ruled out the 1UZ. I would love to drop a V8 in this bish! I am not ordering any new motorset until i have cleaned the engine bay spotless with Simple green and repainted it, pearl white. I am still looking for wiring diagrams and documented swaps to assist me in the parts. I also noticed a thailand company that sells 1UZ/W58 bellhousings I just need to sort out motor mounts and other hard to fab parts as I don't have a TIG welder, just a simple electric MIG that does simple basic welds. I am always reading the "OtherEngine forum" here. I would love to trade tuning secrets with you to become a little more familiar with this MA70 chassis. If Ican get the 1UZ to work without a standalone... then I am in.


BTW... when I mention removing the motor mounts, I meant removing the mounts from the block. not mounts from subframe. I hope I can fit tools between intake and exhaust mani to get them off.


Besides that...
I successfully drained the engine oil, coolant and tranny fluid. Unbolted the slave cyl, tranny mounts, motor mounts, and that little dampener strut under the starter. I simply cut the rubber fuel lines, and undid all the grounds. Removed coolant hoses and IC pipes, clutch fan.

Tomorrow I will pull the harness through the firewall and remove the engine.
 
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Altezza576

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#39
Keep going man personaly id go with 2jz? but each man to his own 1uz is a rare swap, do w-e fits you man


Thanks bro, I already got this guy... so I want to try something a little different. I can get a complete SC4 front clip local for less than $500. that just leaves me with more work to d oand parts to buy to make it work or to even come close to the price of a JDM 1JZ/R154 swap.