1JZ head with HKS 264 in/ex cams, HKS 2JZ cam gears degree'd, GReddy head gasket.
2JZGE block with 2JZGTE piston, 2JZGTE Rods, (ARP Head bolts, Main bolts & rod bolts)
Driftmotion 14mm top feed fuel rail kit, iD1000cc inj, Walbro 400lph pump, -8 out & -10 in fuel lines, Aeromotive FPR
Driftmotion Fuel injector resistor delete plug
Driftmotion 1JZ T4 twinscroll manifold
Borg Warner EFR 7670 - 1.05 A/R T4 twinscroll (external WG) TiAL 46mm gate
491.5hp 455.7tq at 14psi with boost spike to 15psi - 91 Octane
APEXi Power FC ECU for JZA80 US spec
Tuned on Dynapak in Southern California
Thats awesome , Savy
:dunno:Good Hp. Why so little torque?
410whp/381ftlbs @ 19 psi
7mgte, stock internals, HKS MLG 2.0 mm, ARP head studs, walbro/600's, full sequential injection, boss Jr. 60-1 turbo 19 psi, AEM V1, AFPR, and running pig rich at about 10.3/1.
Something is strange, you should be making more power with all those goodies.
Correct me if I'm seeing something wrong here, but 817 ft-lbs??? One of the other runs was something like 675?thought i posted this here but i guess i didnt. heres the last dyno i did with my car. the lower hp pull was off wastegate at 14-15psi
Correct me if I'm seeing something wrong here, but 817 ft-lbs??? One of the other runs was something like 675?
...I might need my eyes checked. If not, congrats though!
I can only hope to go dry sump! You should be revving that thing up to 11,000 RPM with a 76mm!
Looking forward to your race fuel results.
Dry sump on a Mk3 is a bit of a packaging nightmare unless you want the oil tank in the cabin somewhere. To do that safely though, you need a means of isolating the tank via bulkhead, just in case something horrible happens, you don't wanna be covered in hot oil on top of whatever already happened. Plus, the tank itself gets pretty warm, and would increase cabin temps, so not exactly ideal for a street car. That said, I'll never need to worry about oil supply no matter how hard I get the car to stick in the corners. Perhaps a mod better suited for those willing to dedicate the car to the track only..?What Jeff said x 2
No doubt it could set some records, but budget isn't there for a couple years unfortunately. Personally I would have no problem running it to 10k. It has solid mounts, so I would know pretty quickly if something wasn't feeling right. If it was perfectly balanced to over 9k though... I could see it taking 10k without issue.Bottom end balancing is understandable, so are the limits of the oiling system.
If anything, a 10,000 RPM redline would be fun, if it made a lot of power there.
You could set a record for everyone.
Please tell me there is video of that? Would love to hear the sound that made...Here is a 1JZ with stock connecting rods.
Good valves and valvetrain components are important. This was over 11,000 RPM.
The dual spring Ferrea, and Ferrea Beehives are also good to 9K, but I can see them going a lot further. Guys say these Beehives are just as good, but nobody has published results. The 2J crowd goes into 10K territory, depending on the size of the turbo.No doubt it could set some records, but budget isn't there for a couple years unfortunately. Personally I would have no problem running it to 10k. It has solid mounts, so I would know pretty quickly if something wasn't feeling right. If it was perfectly balanced to over 9k though... I could see it taking 10k without issue.
Please tell me there is video of that? Would love to hear the sound that made...
Only reason I went with Carillo rods is because they're lighter than stock by a decent amount. Also, if I could afford one of Arnout's new vvti / vtec 2jz heads, and combine it with my bottom end, I would have a monster. As is, not sure how much more I can squeeze out of it. No sense in revving past the point of good power, after all.
Would like to know what the guy in the link had in his head though, to get the 1j to rev that far.