Ridiculous 1000HP 7M Street MK3 Build

raysupra

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Since you have a handy Tig shop at your dispense, I dont know how many people have had this problem.. But my AN fittings on my valvecovers came loose.. and started spitting oil all over my enginebay during boost.. :-0 So I am having to get those tigged on next go around. Loving the Borg Warner. I just got a billet S366 myself. I also have JE pistons but didn't plan on going to 272 or 282's surprised the you had interference their. did you just use 2j COP? I have is300 batch fire. and I will probably be upgrade to LQ9's as their the best Bang for you buck besides add an HKS DLI or twin power or something. Looking good!
 

NegativeGeForce

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Are your fittings npt? Im using -8 oring straight fittings for my valve covers. I have 4 threads or so but with the oring I just need to snug them. I think the oring or npt fittings just look cleaner than welded.

Yep the bw turbos are the tits. I just have the cheap cast s366 cost me almost nothing for such a high quality turbo as they are.

The valves almost clear with the 8.6mm lift. My motor would probably be non interference if I didn't take soo much off the head. Not a big deal. I've got the 5m oil pump gear and gates tbelt.

Using 1zz coils on Albert Meade's bracket. Gonna be running sequential ignition on a haltech elite. Decided proefi wasn't for me. I really like how haltech has so many can modules to extend it. Their software is way way way more sophisticated than proefi. I tried both. I'm a software dev for 15 years so I know these things.

I'm still fabbing up the trigger wheel. It's similar to what Albert Meade did for Steven Reedholm. I'm just gonna use the cps as the #1 trigger.

Havent made much other progress really I've been busy with other crap. I am still waiting on my trans from jacks. I've been waiting for almost 4 months. Ugh.

should get ramped up on this shit again once my trans comes in and I get my haltech elite.

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Rollus

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The valves almost clear with the 8.6mm lift. My motor would probably be non interference if I didn't take soo much off the head. Not a big deal. I've got the 5m oil pump gear and gates tbelt.
I also have big lift cam. I'm pretty sure I've discussed it with you on Facebook, my real name is Reynald.

What year is the 5M pulley, I'm thinking it is important.

Cross reference brang me there:
08/1981-11/1985 TOYOTA CELICA AA63,TA60,SA63,RA6*,MA61 13-04: TIMING BELT
08/1984-07/1988 TOYOTA CRESSIDA YX70,RX7*,GX71,MX7*,LX7* 13-02: CAMSHAFT & VALVE
08/1983-07/1987 TOYOTA CROWN YS120,MS12*,LS120 13-02: CAMSHAFT & VALVE
 

NegativeGeForce

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We talked about single vs dual springs i think but not about cams. You have the TRD cams with 10.x lift right? Unless u get custom pistons with some deep valve pockets it will definitely be interference. It's not a big deal really. Most race motors are Interference.

No idea what year the 5m gear I have it is. From what I've seen in the epc for the 5m motor there's only one variation of the gear.



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Rollus

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We talked about single vs dual springs i think but not about cams. You have the TRD cams with 10.x lift right? Unless u get custom pistons with some deep valve pockets it will definitely be interference. It's not a big deal really. Most race motors are Interference.

No idea what year the 5m gear I have it is. From what I've seen in the epc for the 5m motor there's only one variation of the gear.



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I have TRD cams with 10.8 lift you are right. I don't matter interference, European cars are, and I know timing belt is important

I think there was a variation in 1983 for pulley, I probably missread

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raysupra

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Are your fittings npt? Im using -8 oring straight fittings for my valve covers. I have 4 threads or so but with the oring I just need to snug them. I think the oring or npt fittings just look cleaner than welded.
They were straight -6 followed by some 90s to a Can, then to the turbo intake. not sure how they ever got stripped. I guess I could try tapping them for -8 and the oring trick. but I feel like I wont get away from the issue unless I just make it permanent. I hate redoing things over and over again. I like overkill
I would prefer not to weld them but at this point I never liked stock cam covers in the first place so I'll just wrinkle coat them and get the car running before I worry about custom covers.

The best Setup IMHO I ever saw was the PCV routed to the exhaust. This little guy. and hook it up behind the 02 as to not mess up the readings.. connecting both lines to a single line running to this to simplify the setup.. all ran behind the head to hide it more.
 

NashMan

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The 5m had 2 diffrent timing belts so my guess is 84 and 85 is the one you are after but I have scene a 85 witha 7mge one sooo not sure maybe its only one year or the one I saw was just swapped on
 

NegativeGeForce

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Yea evac pcv is probably the best so long as you're running an open exhaust with no cats or mufflers. I will probably run evac.

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NegativeGeForce

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Installed crank trigger and cam sync sensors. Also, I got tired of waiting for the Haltech Elite to come out so I ended up going with the ProEFI 128 since I found a good deal.

Hopefully it wont be much longer till this thing fires up. Before end of this year *shakes fist*













 

Prism11

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Have you checked the output from your crank angle prox? The O.D. looks close to the aluminum timing cover, and may give a false positive. There is an area around the O.D. that the sensor can still pick up even though it is not in front of the sensor face. I see you notched some material and was just checking that you took enough out. It would suck to have to disassemble it to take out more material.
 

NegativeGeForce

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Yea i tested the wheel with an oscilloscope and also rotated the crank a few times. It makes a really clean signal.

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NegativeGeForce

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Tampa. You haven't seen this thing cuz it hasn't been running for about 8 years now.

Just a little update: The transmission is apart finally at a jacks transmissions and they are doing the micropolish on the gears. The motor will be going in once I get the transmission back. This thing "should" run soon....like in a month soon.

I was going to strip down half the car again, rebush a mint 89+front subframe I have with the nylon kit, install my 14" wilwood brakes but I decided that I just need to get this running and driving before I complicate things further. With my luck i'll probably end up scratching fresh paint and then getting pissed off. Better to get everything "sorted" with the drivetrain first before I tackle cosmetic / suspension crap.
 

NegativeGeForce

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How I see things going down:

First attempt:
1. wire up proefi myself
2. attempt to get the 36-1 trigger wheel firmware with a 2jz vvti tune working
3. hope the car starts.
4. fail.

Second attempt:

1. tow the car to induction performance and have them get this thing running, lol


If I get this thing running first attempt im pretty much gonna feel like a god and be an asshole for the rest of my life. Talking to proefi support i don't see why it wouldn't start and run but who f'n knows. The ignition strategy is a black box to me at this point.
 

emericaskater285

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Very interested to see if it goes well first try. I am sure there are going to be a few bugs like all builds tho. Cant wait to see it fire up.

I know i want to do trigger wheel setups on mine, but I am a bit unsure on how to go about which tooth to set it on and wiring/programing it. Where did you find the information on how to do it?
 

NegativeGeForce

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Yeah I do think it will run first try but I just have some uncertainty based on what proefi told me. They basically told me the 36-1 wheel can be oriented any clock position and I just need to have the cam sync event occur between any crank falling edge and just before TDC. It just seems like the missing tooth should be play a greater part to determine the crank angle than they say it does. Looking at the 2JZ VVTI crank trigger which utilizes a 36-2 I found the sensor sits exactly 180 degrees out from the two missing teeth. I believe that is to just orient the wheel so the missing tooth is always +- 60 degrees away from the ignition event(s).

I found that the Megasquirt documentation has been the greatest resource in general for how various modern EFI strategies operate. You can probably pickup a lot just from browsing it.

http://www.msextra.com/doc/index.html
 

andrew_mx83

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With megasquirt it doesnt matter where you put the missing tooth. I just set one up that was 300 deg BTDC as thats where i already had the pickup etc mounted and it works fine. Hopefully your ecu can do the same.
 

Enraged

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I know it's a bit late, but if you want to make a billet oil pump drive gear, SDP-SI sells timing pulley stock. You will need to size it, but I used some on a CNC router project for a spinning ball nut a few years ago, it's very nice stuff.

it's here: http://www.sdp-si.com/eStore/Catalog under Pulleys > Timing Pulley Stock
 

sethron71

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Missing tooth would only be used if you did not have crank sync. The cam is telling it when #1 is TDC. Very nice build!

Seth
 

NegativeGeForce

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Not much of an update. I've been distracted with girls ^_^

I got everything I need to put this pile of crap together except a bunch of little things. I need to order some more crap then I am gonna throw this thing together on my xmas break.

Most recent needed piece I got was the Jacks Trans stage 3 + micropolish R154.

 

Grandavi

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I'm wondering on yours, if you notice, did they silicone the bolts on the front plate? Mine were, had it redone properly at my shop and made sure it didn't leak prior to installation. Ran three tanks through the car (not quite) and changed the fluid. Was black with a lot of shiny specks. Cars parked with fresh trans lube in it. Planning on one more fluid change after 3000-5000 km. my second gear is fairly stiff. (Stage 3 build)
 

NegativeGeForce

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I didn't really look at the front plate. All I did really to inspect it was turn the input shaft and it feels like glass, lol. Overall the trans looks really high quality, but I guess time will tell. I will check out the front plate and see what they did there, but i'm 100% confident they built this thing better than toyota ever could.

All the internals are polished and should look like the input shaft which has a mirror like sheen to it. It would def be a red flag if I get any crap in my fluid as there is nothing to wear off so to speak from the polished surfaces.