Ridiculous 1000HP 7M Street MK3 Build

Beals

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Beals - the amazon tig runs on 110 and 220V. My shop is already setup on 220V for my dads miller mig machine.
I suppose so, but when I think of a welder mig or tig I think of big wire wheels not the teeny toy's you can get for little things. For small stuff they really are handy but why risk blowing breakers and halting projects when it doesn't cost much more to do it right.
 

IndigoMKII

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I suppose so, but when I think of a welder mig or tig I think of big wire wheels not the teeny toy's you can get for little things. For small stuff they really are handy but why risk blowing breakers and halting projects when it doesn't cost much more to do it right.
That's why we use 220 3-phase :D

The building actually has 256volts but has to be brought down as the machines don't like much more than 206 and it has to be a very clean signal.


You should of seen the guys face when we requested a 60kw/hr transformer for one building when the entire street was being run off a 20kw/hr transformer.
 

NegativeGeForce

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Unless u are welding huge steel pipes or ship hulls and truck frames 220 is more than enough for race car fab work. Havent needed more than 120 amps yet and I've gone through a few projects.

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doonsuka

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Unless u are welding huge steel pipes or ship hulls and truck frames 220 is more than enough for race car fab work. Havent needed more than 120 amps yet and I've gone through a few projects.

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I'm curious how you like that TIG so far? How thick of aluminum can you weld with that?


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NegativeGeForce

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The tig is really nice. More than I need.

In other news - I got all my crap back from engine lab.

Here is what my $500 bought me. The race balance took out about 80% of the force generated at 9k revs.
 

NegativeGeForce

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In layman's terms - The crank is gonna twist and wobble less at high revs.

The initial spin compares the crank before doing the balance and the final spin is after they have balanced it.

The stock crank had nearly 70lb of force generated on one end of the crankshaft at 9k and there was a huge difference between the left side and right side of the crank.

After the balance the difference between the left and right sides is much much closer.

This was done to the stock full counter weighted 7M crank using much lighter forged pauter rods and JE pistons.
 

NegativeGeForce

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panographic feature on my camera warps the image like that...

Whats pictured so far is only about 1/3 of my stash. If I actually unboxed everything I wouldn't have space to work on the car, lol.
 

NashMan

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In layman's terms - The crank is gonna twist and wobble less at high revs.

The initial spin compares the crank before doing the balance and the final spin is after they have balanced it.

The stock crank had nearly 70lb of force generated on one end of the crankshaft at 9k and there was a huge difference between the left side and right side of the crank.

After the balance the difference between the left and right sides is much much closer.

This was done to the stock full counter weighted 7M crank using much lighter forged pauter rods and JE pistons.
could have made it even simpler and said I got it balanced just saying lol but it's neat they gave ya a card from before and after
 

NegativeGeForce

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Problem is other shops and people say it doesnt need balancing cuz an inline 6 is inheritly balanced but they would be right and wrong so instead of posting hearsay and opinions I thought id explain why and post proof that shows there is a benefit in my case with lighter forged parts. I am sure with stock components the balance wouldn't be as far off but still would benefit.

I would say though for a stock rebuild the race balance is overkill when the balancing costs almost as much as stock rebuild parts. It only makes sense if your changing alot of parts around and trying to go for high revs and hp. Engine lab does offer alot cheaper basic balancing though that won't be as precise.


I'll take some close up pics of my crank but it looks almost ravaged with the amount of grinding they did on various parts of the crank to obtain the balance and they also took weight off my flex plate.

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Grandavi

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Well with only the words "polished and balanced crank" and no balance ticket... Balancing on mine could have been setting it on a bench and saying... "Looks good to me"
 

NashMan

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Most shops will balance the crank it's not cheap

Most shop will have paper work if there muchine does a type out

for example this time around it's getting balanced with out the balancer and fly wheel since I may change them down the road and don't want it to effect my motor
 

NegativeGeForce

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Set the crank in tonight. About .00175 clearance on all mains using the std Clevite bearings aka NDC. .003" thrust clearance. So far so good ^_^!! Yes, I know....I gotta reposition the block on the engine stand so its weight is centered better.






 
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Aleo24

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Just read through your build. Looks like your doing it the right way first time and not cutting corners. I plan on building my spare motor for mine in the middle of the year, so its good to see the sort of work that is required to do it right.
 

NegativeGeForce

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Yep Im trying my best to do everything as best as anyone could. Dirt is the #1 enemy. I went through like 3 cans of brake cleaner going through the block and crank then blew out the oil passages with compressed air. I found that PRI (performance racing industry) magazines and grassroots have the most wealth of knowledge and im lucky enough to have a friend thats been building engines and following the technology since the 70's...found this article to be really useful for engine building http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/rebuild-it-right/
 

NegativeGeForce

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The assembly lube I'm using. This stuff is intense...very thick and sticky like honey. Found it at the PRI show


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atmperformance

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people still use plastic gauge? I like measuring several spots with a micrometer and dial bore gauge. I'm always afraid of that plastic causing a short term dry spot on my crank.
but that assembly lube is good stuff.
 

NegativeGeForce

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Brake cleaner cleans it off nicely. Some of the best engine builders in the world still use plastigauge. It's probably best to use both micrometer/dial bore gauge and plastigauge so you can cross reference the two numbers but I felt comfortable with just using plastigauge.

Im gonna try the approach of micing the rod journals and rods along with plastigauge just so I can compare the two. I don't expect them to be off by much.
 

NegativeGeForce

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Not much of an update, but I replaced the oil pump bushing. New one is about .001" tighter.



Also ordered $500 in new toyota bolts. Decided zinc plating 300 bolts and nuts is a nightmare, but I will still be plating a few parts like the oil pump drive gear (using one from a 5M-GE using a spacer sacrificed off from another gear).

 

Grandavi

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Is the 5m pump gear an improvement?

I remember reading that the 5m and 7m oil pumps were the same except for the pick up tube. I don't remember reading anything suggesting there was any reason to run 5m over 7m
 

NegativeGeForce

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5m oil pump gear is a stronger gear. 7m gear is known to fail at high rpm with upgraded valve train. It just needs a spacer so it lines up with the timing belt on the 7m.

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Grandavi

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There should be a stickie on all the little improvements. Something like "7m best build options"

I'm running stock head and valves so I won't have to worry, but I like building for better if it is indeed better.
 

IJ.

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toyotanos proved this^^^
99 times out of a 100 it's because someone has used something sharp edged to jam a spoke so they can undo it and the mark left has created a stress riser...

Awesome build so far!

If I ever went aftermarket rods I'd jump right to Pauters, but IJ. posted somewhere that they don't have the oil hole on the small end. Is this correct?
It's the Spray hole in the beam that squirts Oil onto the thrust surface of the bore that's missing.
 

NegativeGeForce

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I am slowly writing an article about my build with all the improvements so its not soo spread throughout like this thread.

here is the post where toyotanos explains the oil pump gear failure.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...ontrol-build&p=1953409&viewfull=1#post1953409

As for the Pauter rods - they have two drip oil holes on the small end. I am using oil squirters so pin oiling shouldn't be a problem.
 

NashMan

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Oil pump gear does not work I looked into it long ago

in 83 they ran a different gear a stronger one but the cogged belt is diffrent the teeth don't match up but in 84 to 85 they use the same gear as the 6m and 7m



what you have to look out for is this I have scene this more then once

 
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