Ridiculous 1000HP 7M Street MK3 Build

NegativeGeForce

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#1
Sup,

Thought id share my progress so far with my build as I think it's getting close to where there's actually something to show. It's been about 7 years now since I left my supra in the garage after I blew off the ringland on #5 piston. The engine failed because I simply cut corners on my previous build and pushed it too hard (20psi on 67mm turbo with stock internals). I promised myself i'd build the car right one day. Well I got a good job last October and cut alot of my expenses out so I think I have enough money now to do things how I always wanted.

Alot of people suggested I should go with a 2JZ but I'm sticking with the 7M simply because I think it's a ridiculously reliable engine when built right. My half assed 7M was making 500whp 7 years ago so I never saw the need for the 2JZ besides that engine having a larger aftermarket. Also, I will actually be building TWO 7M's in sequence so the cost of the motors is much cheaper. The first 7M will be my experimental engine and the 2nd will be a backup and possibly the more expensive engine (titanium rods, cnc ported head etc).

So last november or so I started redoing my entire garage. This was the first step to doing it "right".

pulled the car out first time in several years. Door locks were seized and had to spray lube into the keyhole


had to scrape all the old shitty paint off the floor


I quit scraping and rented this beast


countless hours later (leeeeet the ggaames beegin!!)


finally ready to paint


done


ripped out old shelving, painted walls, new lighting and storage cabinets


So after about a year now of upgrading the garage bit by bit this is how my work/fab area looks today. Just installed the stainless table and a proper vise. The head I have been working on is on the table


Also here are all the parts I have accumulated over the last year. Yes, I have a parts room.


So the idea is to properly build a reliable 1000whp 7M-GTE and then go from there.

Cylinder Head (Machine work to be done at National Cylinder Head in Tampa)
  • Extensive porting/polishing and reshaping of combustion chamber
  • Full Ferrea Valve Train 1mm OS valves, Dual Valve springs, Bronze Manganese Guides, Valve Locks
  • Standard 3 angle valve job
  • Toyota Shimless buckets
  • Brian Crower 272 8.68mm Lift Cams (may change these to a custom set of TED billet cams later)

Block (Machine work to be done by Engine Labs in Tampa)
  • Custom Arias Pistons
  • Pauter Rods
  • Stock ReNitrited 7M Crankshaft
  • Pro Gram Billet Mains
  • Supra Sport 7M-GTE Girdle,
  • 8qrt Dooley Enterprises oil pan with trap doors
  • ATI Damper

Once I have the engine I will be going down this list randomly most likely. I already have some of these parts.

  • Ron Ramirez Long Runner Intake Manifold
  • Custom Twin Scroll Exhaust Manifold
  • Borg Warner S366 Turbo (to start with)
  • Precision 44mm Wastegate
  • Custom Exhaust
  • ProEFI 128 with custom harness
  • Name brand, big core intercooler (4-5")
  • Send R154 out for rebuild with Marlin Crawler guts
  • Aluminum driveshaft
  • Refurb subframes (reinforce, install poly bushings)
  • New LSD
  • Suspension (adjustable bars, bushings etc)
  • Install Front 14.25" Wilwood 6 pot brakes (Arizona Performance kit)
  • Install Rear New MKIV BBK
  • Coilovers (not sure yet)
  • Front and rear anti sway bars (not sure yet)
  • Clutch (eyeing Spec Twin Disc)
  • Refurb interior (I have alot of shadow grey goodies)
  • 18" wheels, no clue which...maybe black XXR 521

Im probably missing alot but, I think you get the gist of the scale of the build. Woo Hoo.
 

NegativeGeForce

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#3
Just to give you an idea where I am with the head. I am almost done with all the intake ports. Still gotta do the exhaust ports and combustion chambers







 

Sinistr

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#9
Damn man, that's one hell of a revamped work space! Great job on that alone. I'm sure that your build is/should go very well. Best of luck you and be sure to post the progress of your work. Looks like your well on your way to 1000+ HP
 

GrimJack

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#11
You're going to need some other bits... fuel pumps, injectors, bigger fuel lines, a bunch of PITA work on the tank to accommodate the above, bigger radiator, and a crapload of ARP bolts. For instance, stock flywheel bolts don't hold at that power level, the heads tear off them at somewhere near 900hp. I don't recall exactly what power level Duane was at when they went, but I remember pulling the transmission and having all the bolt heads fall into my hand!

Tougher motor mounts, too. Stock ones last a couple weeks at higher power levels.
 
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#14
It's nice to see someone using the 7M. 2J this 2J that, you could probably start a reactions video of people when you tell them the XXX feet of rubber you just laid down was done with the "prehistoric dinosaur head gasket blowing" 7m-gte. What are you thinking for exhaust? Some of the mk4 guys seem to love running the random tech cat (but I don;t know how well it flows), you thinking of going catless? Checkout this badass MK3 on youtube with a custom exhaust.. I thought it sounded pretty mean, if anything it's something to help keep ya goin :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHU_MD5L1x0&list=PL20PfOKISpr3ssUo3raE4M-KUQbdUEmzF&index=23
 

NegativeGeForce

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#15
Wow, alot of people subscribing. Thanks everyone for the comments :) I'll keep you guys updated as progress is made. I hope to get the car running sometime end of year.


You're going to need some other bits... fuel pumps, injectors, bigger fuel lines, a bunch of PITA work on the tank to accommodate the above, bigger radiator, and a crapload of ARP bolts. For instance, stock flywheel bolts don't hold at that power level, the heads tear off them at somewhere near 900hp. I don't recall exactly what power level Duane was at when they went, but I remember pulling the transmission and having all the bolt heads fall into my hand!

Tougher motor mounts, too. Stock ones last a couple weeks at higher power levels.
You brought up some good points. Yeah I guess I forgot to mention the fuel system. I do have a custom sump gas tank already so that's going to be a good starting point but I have a long ways before I start on that stuff. I guess I want to have an engine first. I also have a reinforced rear subframe with solid bushings waiting to get installed. Also, yeah...the ARP's are a given I would think. The 7M actually has 12mm head bolts vs 2JZ having 10mm That's why the 2JZ guys need to go with the 1/2" stud upgrade or L19 studs for reliable 1000hp+. So ironically the 7M doesn't have head lifting issues at high boost like the stock 2JZ as long as ARP's are used.


Glad to see you are using the Pan I sold you. Good luck with the build man, looking good so far!
Thanks. Yeah that pan is pretty sweet, I may modify it slightly to clear the subframe better but otherwise its gonna work well I think :)



It's nice to see someone using the 7M. 2J this 2J that, you could probably start a reactions video of people when you tell them the XXX feet of rubber you just laid down was done with the "prehistoric dinosaur head gasket blowing" 7m-gte. What are you thinking for exhaust? Some of the mk4 guys seem to love running the random tech cat (but I don;t know how well it flows), you thinking of going catless? Checkout this badass MK3 on youtube with a custom exhaust.. I thought it sounded pretty mean, if anything it's something to help keep ya goin :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHU_MD5L1x0&list=PL20PfOKISpr3ssUo3raE4M-KUQbdUEmzF&index=23
lol, I am not against the 2JZ or anything. I think they both have their pro's and cons but it's a shame more people don't build 7M's. Right now the car has a modified 3.5" MKIV Tanabe Super Medalion exhaust. I may just keep that since the 7M sounded nice when it was running last.
 

Grandavi

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#16
Subscribed!

I stayed 7M and am happy.. only shooting for 500'ish... but looking forward to watching your build. I just tell people I have a stroker 2j when they ask... lol. 7M out-torques.
 

mark1987supra

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#23
Subscribed from a fellow 7M High HP lover.

Also I would not go with an aluminum driveshaft. Aluminum does not handle high torque, that driveshaft will twist on the line if you ever try to launch the car on a prepped track. I would look into a chromoly driveshaft (lightweight and incredibly strong). I drag race my 7m @ 600+ whp right now, and was concerned with snapping an aluminum driveshaft at this level. I ended up having Aaron @ DM make me a steel version of their 1350 u-joint driveshaft with their R154 hardened slip yoke.

I ended up snapping a pinion before the driveshaft gave out @ 15psi on the launch.
 

NegativeGeForce

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#24
Sorry meant to say Guide Bosses...
That's actually a bottle neck area of the 7M head. It narrows down to about 20mm there. I took enough out to open it up to 27.5mm. I have done some researching and alot of guys get nice flow #'s from taking those bosses off. I WILL be keeping the guide bosses on the exhaust side though because those exhaust valves will be getting really hot and I know ill need as much meat there as possible to keep them cool. I do intend to keep the full length of the valve guide though. I want these valves to actually last.

some nice cross section images of the 7mgte head here (http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/63223-7m-head-cross-section.html)


Subscribed from a fellow 7M High HP lover.

Also I would not go with an aluminum driveshaft. Aluminum does not handle high torque, that driveshaft will twist on the line if you ever try to launch the car on a prepped track. I would look into a chromoly driveshaft (lightweight and incredibly strong). I drag race my 7m @ 600+ whp right now, and was concerned with snapping an aluminum driveshaft at this level. I ended up having Aaron @ DM make me a steel version of their 1350 u-joint driveshaft with their R154 hardened slip yoke.

I ended up snapping a pinion before the driveshaft gave out @ 15psi on the launch.
Yeah you bring up some good points. I am not sure if I will be drag racing the car much but I might consider the chromoly instead.
 
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Albert

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#26
Also, yeah...the ARP's are a given I would think. The 7M actually has 12mm head bolts vs 2JZ having 10mm That's why the 2JZ guys need to go with the 1/2" stud upgrade or L19 studs for reliable 1000hp+. So ironically the 7M doesn't have head lifting issues at high boost like the stock 2JZ as long as ARP's are used.
I wouldn't over look this setup if I were you.

We have had high boost 7ms here locally lift the head, not because the arps, but the head it self gets annealed when they over heat and becomes gummy. The head lifts right through the washer. The arp studs never gets longer to indicate it has Been stretched.

To fix the problem we milled the washer face with a counter bore to use the special arp washers that are counter stepped. Since then we've gotten it to go 36psi with no lifting issue
 

NegativeGeForce

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#27
I wouldn't over look this setup if I were you.

We have had high boost 7ms here locally lift the head, not because the arps, but the head it self gets annealed when they over heat and becomes gummy. The head lifts right through the washer. The arp studs never gets longer to indicate it has Been stretched.

To fix the problem we milled the washer face with a counter bore to use the special arp washers that are counter stepped. Since then we've gotten it to go 36psi with no lifting issue
Hmm, that's actually a good idea...essentially creating a larger surface area for the nut to clamp down on and prevent aluminum from collapsing around the stud. I will ask the local head specialist here if he can do this. Thanks for the tip.

Are these the inserts? 1/2" would be pretty close to the stock ID of the head bolt holes.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-200-8574
 
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funky_monkey58

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#28
Interesting build, my old injectors fuel rail and AEM EMS are all up for sale on SF from the current owner, all of which would support your 1000hp goals.
-Sean
 

NegativeGeForce

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#30
This thread has more details on this mod including a tool you can borrow to ream the bolt holes.
.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?683040-finally-an-answer-to-the-7m-head-gasket-issue
Yea thanks I ended up finding that thread earlier and read through it. I will be taking my head this morning to the machine shop to see if they can install the inserts among other things. I finally finished porting and polishing the head and will be getting all the machine work done hopefully this week. I will make sure to post an update when I get the head back.

Im also planning to take my shortblock to tampa engine lab soon. I just got my pauter rods fitted with arp 625 custom age fasteners.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4
 

NegativeGeForce

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#33
I needed a break from the car and work :). Just got back from vacation in Amsterdam and Denmark. Been there for the last 2 weeks. I did drop the head off at Tampa Engine Lab before I left. They wanted $1300 in just labor for everything I asked :p. That's the cost of a brand new cylinder head from Toyota, lol. I will give an update when it's done.

FYI, I was in Denmark for a virtual 24hr of Lemans race and my team won. http://www.gtr24h.com/results/

I look like shit cuz I caught a bug there and was sick as a dog, but I powered through the race and faced almost certain death afterwards.

My shit eating grin after the win
397501_10202118460992790_1039521403_n.jpg
Satellite racing
6431_232015303629438_1862174015_n.jpg
Ceremony
536918_10151936687078270_1086415166_n.jpg
The rig we borrowed and won the race with
935142_10202118460752784_1165162784_n.jpg
Victory drinks :)
62698_10202106933064599_1408241159_n.jpg
 

NegativeGeForce

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#34
Got an update from engine lab. They are done with the head. Just adjusting valve lash now. They ended up having to heat straightening the head as the cam saddles were warped by .006" then line hone to make the cam journals round again. They are very thorough. More info when I get the head back.

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NashMan

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That's actually a bottle neck area of the 7M head. It narrows down to about 20mm there. I took enough out to open it up to 27.5mm. I have done some researching and alot of guys get nice flow #'s from taking those bosses off. I WILL be keeping the guide bosses on the exhaust side though because those exhaust valves will be getting really hot and I know ill need as much meat there as possible to keep them cool. I do intend to keep the full length of the valve guide though. I want these valves to actually last.

some nice cross section images of the 7mgte head here (http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/63223-7m-head-cross-section.html)




Yeah you bring up some good points. I am not sure if I will be drag racing the car much but I might consider the chromoly instead.

better answer would have been "because race car"


but you should do the same thing I am doing and coat the chamber and the valves heads and margin the company here says it will not come off the valve still debating on the valve part thou

only reason for this alot of cooling meat has bean removed and makes it harder for the cooling jackets to suck up the head from the guide (Good thing you are getting bronze gudies because at these temps it be like getting you sucked off from girl with braces)

my head is the same way but ported a bit different in the intake
 

NashMan

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#38
Hope the head didn't get too annealed
if they did it right he should not have an issue

the line hone is kinda creepy imagine what the face of the head was like before if one is 6 would hate to see the other side pending how it was warp
 
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Albert

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#40
if they did it right he should not have an issue

the line hone is kinda creepy image what the deck of the head was like before
Meh never seen an automotive place to it right...... They are always in a hurry