Rear BBK anyone?

jnybbad

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I finally saw one of the STI hubs and it is stepped. Inner step is 58mm for the rotor and outer is 56mm for the wheel. I just machined my hub down to 58mm and machined a small releif on the ouside diameter to clear the step on the inside of the rotor. I then bought. 73mm x 56mm aluminium hub centric rings for the rear wheels and opened up the ID to 58mm to fit the new hub. Now I can buy new rotors and not have to make any adjustments.
 

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Poodles

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I knew I wasn't crazy :rofl:

Miata has a stepped hub as well, the area for the rotor to sit is larger than the face for the wheel. It simply looks tapered when it has rust on it though >.>

Haven't touched the Supra in a long time so wasn't sure if ours had the same setup.
 

BoostMonger

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is this setup tried and true and easy enough for an average person? if so wheres this write up at?
 

Dylan JZ

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Well, I completed this but totally forgot to grind that backing plate down, and what an AWFUL noise that makes haha.

It's such a HUGE improvement though, especially with my Wilwood 13" front kit.

I used 3mm washers, Agency Power Evo lines, M10x1.5x40mm grade 10 bolts, and Stoptech rotors and pads.
 

xzeror

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Well, I completed this but totally forgot to grind that backing plate down, and what an AWFUL noise that makes haha.

It's such a HUGE improvement though, especially with my Wilwood 13" front kit.

I used 3mm washers, Agency Power Evo lines, M10x1.5x40mm grade 10 bolts, and Stoptech rotors and pads.
What backing plate? and could you tell us where you ordered those parts from :)? Thanks!
 

Dylan JZ

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Ordered the calipers off eBay for $250 shipped, and they were damn near brand new. The lines were ordered from MVP Motorsports by coincidence (shrug), bolts off eBay bolt supplier (American), random 3mm washers I found at my friend's shop, rotors and pads from AJUSA.com

The backing plate is right behind the e-brake assembly. The actual best way to avoid this is to have the lip in the rotors (the one that runs the plate) milled down about 2mm or flat to the rotor face.
 

akito

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Do you have pictures to what you're talking about? This would help me and anyone in the future of trying to install these calipers/ rotors. Thanks a bunch!
 

xzeror

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410103 x 2
420133 x 2
1 ft. -3 Line with straight -3 female ends x 2.

XRP does not have anti-whip sleeves. Maybe stop tech will do them.
Just to be sure...

i will need a total of two 1ft lines and 4 of each fitting to have a complete set of brake lines for the rears? The items listed above is just for one side correct?
 

TrqMnstr

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Total cost of my setup is (CAD):
Use EVO 9 2007 caliper (2): $250
Standard Raybestos 2005 WRX STI disc (2) : $140
Standard raybestos Mitsubichi EVO 9 brake pads (4) : $50
Bolt (4): $2.00
58 to 60mm bore machining (2) : $25
TOTAL : $467.00 tx and everything include ( no labor, i do it myself)

Here is some pics of my install + some tips :

Both MK3 and EVo bolt will not be correct to use. The evo bolt are not long enough. You need to buy 1/4-3/8 longer.
I use some 7mgte head bolt washer to space the caliper. They are perfect. So if you have some spare, go for it.
For the dust sheild, you only need to cut the 90 degre part of it (the lip). I apply paint where i cut to prevent rust.
I use the stainless brake line that come with my caliper, i think this is the stock one.
Oh, i did not mesure inside the disc for the hand brake, but it look like they are a little bit smaller. Reason is that my handbrake was in need of a little adjusting and now it is just perfect, 5-6 click make it perfect. So you may need a little adjusting depending of yours.



You can see the washer spacing the caliper




Sawblade fit (2-3mm space) But i will not run those anymore since i will be upgrading the front too. I test fit just for your info.

For those that don't want to go through the 41 pages like I just did. Really good info though.
 

Dylan JZ

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It will still foul all sorts of noise on the bearing back plate unless the STIs rotor lip (located on the back side) is machined off as well..
 

Dylan JZ

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I thought that would be possible originally, but it doesn't create enough clearance unfortunately.. Mine still made tons of noise when the hub deflected in a hard turns, thus machining the rotor is the only way.

That said, I LOVE my BBK setup with these rears. It is pretty much badass haha.
 

Dylan JZ

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As I recall, the prices were near double despite being new, and since the Evo IX isn't that old, I figured I didn't need new calipers. As luck would have it, mine were damn near brand new. Prices have since dropped a bit (~$50), but that's still $90 more than what I paid shipped.

But yeah, if you want to be sure you're getting good stuff, you can do that. Plus, the Centrics (only ones worth buying) come with posi-quiet pads loaded in which are probably almost the same pad that are in mine (Stoptec street pads). Centric makes the best OE rotors and pads IMO, and they make Stoptech which I love, so.
 

Dylan JZ

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The FRS and BRZ don't have Brembos. Or am I misunderstanding you?


EDIT: ah, the rotor. Interesting. Someone should try it out lol
 

Poodles

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The FRS and BRZ don't have Brembos. Or am I misunderstanding you?


EDIT: ah, the rotor. Interesting. Someone should try it out lol
STI brembos are direct bolt ons to the FRS/BRZ. Only change that needs to be made is the bleeders.
 

Dylan JZ

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I see where you're going with this, but it's just conjecture as far as the rotor goes.

I don't think there is 8mm of play in the Brembos. Mine were snug with new pads and the STI rotors, so.
 

Zazzn

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So I did some cals against some diff setups to see what the break bias would be.

Check it out, I think i'm going to jump on this ban wagon as well, to even out my cobra breaks in the front and give my rear end a little more bite as it's pretty lacking
 

Zazzn

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Ok done a lot of reading on this, I have my EVO calipers on the way..

Can someone tell me if how much clearance there is from the top of the STI rotor to the caliper?

Is there an extra 16 MM of clearance?
 
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Dylan JZ

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I've re-read that a few times, and there's a few ways that can be interpreted.. I'd be glad to measure whatever you're looking for, but I need clarification.
 

Zazzn

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ok, basically if I was to get a rotor that is 16MM bigger IE 350z rotors, is there clearance, some how form the pictures I highly doubt it. But the 370Z sport break package almost matches the STI brembo calipers for thickness and all sorts of other things so it for sure would work, but I don't think the calipers will accept a 350MM rotor.

Has anyone ever tried to bolt up 370z calipers to the rear?
 

Dylan JZ

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Nah, nowhere near that room.. the edge of the rotor only has maybe 5mm clearance.

It actually fits just as it would on an STI.
 

Zazzn

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Just got my rotors's and calipers, need to find a machine shop now, also if I drill out the hole for the star wheel will that affect balance?
 

Dylan JZ

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I just adjusted mine for like maybe minute or two per side, and they're good, but if you want to do that, it won't cause any issues. It'll be the same as the stock setup; there's no weight compensation for that.

Also, make sure to machine the lip off that sticks out on the back or it will grind all sorts of hell.
 

xzeror

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Just to be sure... Stock brake lines don't work? Early in the thread it said they worked... Now it seems like custom or evo8 lines are the way to go. Also what lip and how much needs to be machined. I already has the bore machined out. Only thing holding me back is the brake line and lip that needs to kachined off to prevent grinding.
 

eraezer

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I think that since the removed metal is within the mating area it will not generate enough torque to throw the balancing of. Also, the weight percentage of the disc that is removed is very small compared to the weight percentage which is left further out on the disc.
 

yhatzee89

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Never installed it, even had the rotors bored and everything, but I'm in the middle of moving and I need the money for other things
 

Zazzn

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Mine are finally in, just never updated, working great. I have a slow fluid leak, probably from the rear break lines. They are SS lines but I don't think they are the right ends for the caliper. Something is leaking, and I haven't had time to go back and look takes about 3 weeks to get the light on in the dash.

All in all, looks much better, e break works and car looks modern. I have the doward front calipers fomr the cobra and i'll finally stop bitching about them because they are SOOO much better with pads that bite less. The Hawk HP+ were terrible and way to grabby. I've put centric ceramics all around since i'm not tracking anytime soon, and the breaks feel very modular.

This upgrade isn't really an upgrade IMO since realistically, you really really have to push the car to the limit to tax the stock rear brakes. IMO it's more for looks than anything else for me.
 

Dylan JZ

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Maybe your stock brakes were decent, but mine were awful to the point of being a safety concern for me. I could also get them to fade pretty quickly even with newer fluid.

We took my current setup (wilwood 4p/brembo 2p) to around 6-700deg iirc, and they were still kicking ass and taking names on street pads. I think they'll do 900 before failing, but I'd be melting rear dust boots and probably other detrimental items prior to that.
 

Zazzn

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008 SUBARU IMPREZA WRX 2.5L H4 Turbocharged
CENTRIC 12547030 (125.47030) Rotor $ 60.79 $ 0.00 2

That's what I used for the rear rotors.

Also @Dylan, if you were saying massive fade, that was probably with stock front rotors and calipers. In that case yes, but I already had the doward front caliper kit using the mustang calipers and rotors, in which case was hard for me to fade but not impossible. I rarely drive the car hard enough to make it fade anymore since it doesn't have 650 WHP anymore.