Rack and Pinion Install

SupraTrbo89

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I have an 89 supra turbo with PPS. I will be installing a new rack in a week or so and was wondering if anyone had any tips or advice. I will be using the TSRM and other info I have found on this forum. I ordered my rack from Carsteering.com based on a recommendation from this forum and the fact the rack came with the steering assist module and has a 3 year warranty. A few questions:

1. I was wanted to replace the steering rack bushings and was going to go with the polyurethane set from Raptor Racing. I spoke with George from Raptor racing and he said he took these off his site because people with 89+ were having fitment issues. He is looking to provide a free set of bushings to someone with an 87 or 88 to do a test fit if anyone is interested. Does anyone recommend a polyurathethan set from another vendor?. If not I plan on going with an OEM set from Driftmotion.

2. I am going to replace the high pressure hose while I'm doing this job even though mine isn't leaking. I was going to try the upgraded line from Driftmotion as I believe it eliminates one of the banjo fittings. Has anyone used this line or should I just go OEM.

3. I was going to purchase a set of the steering spacers that thread on the inner tie rod. Are these worth me purchasing? Does it improve the steering angle as noted.

4. Do you think I should replace the pump while I'm at it. I have heard it wine when the fluid has gotten low from the leaking rack but if I keep it filled it is fine.

Thanks,
Tim
 

supraguy@aol

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1. I got my steering rack bushings from Ronnie K. He makes bushings for the rack, as well as front and rear subframe bushings. I installed these on my '88. Can't comment as to how they would fit any differently on an '89

2. I have the Diftmotion high pressure hose on my '88 as well. There's no problems with it, though I kinda wish it were about 2" longer, so as to route through the oem hose mounts. As I recall, it does replace the banjo at the rack end.

3. Don't know anything about steering rack spacers.

4. I wouldn't replace the pump unless you know there's a problem with it. But that's just me. PS- You can also buy rebuild kits for the pumps, if you want to replace the internal seals.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Steering-Pump-Seal-Kit-GATES-348409-fits-86-93-Toyota-Supra-/301895496498?hash=item464a5fb332:g:FewAAOSwP~tW42TN&vxp=mtr
 

Nick M

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It is hard to do all of it OEM, as it is out of production. And assholes are selling reman units for significantly more money because the aftermarket sucks. Good luck in your endeavor.
 

SupraTrbo89

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I am finally working on the install and can not get the high pressure line loose. I have the bolt broke loose inside the ps pump but the bolt, copper washer, banjo fitting and other copper washer are all stuck together. So when i turn the bolt it is turning the entire line and the metal section of the line hits the ps pulley and I don't want to use that to try against. One thing I noticed is that the copper washers appear to be joined together with a copper "bridge" almost that wraps over the banjo section. Not sure if that has anything to do with my issue. Maybe it was made this way to make the install easier. I have the Driftmotion high pressure line so I don't care about the one on there now. Just need to get the bolt unfroze from the banjo fitting/washers.
 

SupraTrbo89

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I am finally working on the install and can not get the high pressure line loose. I have the bolt broke loose inside the ps pump but the bolt, copper washer, banjo fitting and other copper washer are all stuck together. So when i turn the bolt it is turning the entire line and the metal section of the line hits the ps pulley and I don't want to use that to try against. One thing I noticed is that the copper washers appear to be joined together with a copper "bridge" almost that wraps over the banjo section. Not sure if that has anything to do with my issue. Maybe it was made this way to make the install easier. I have the Driftmotion high pressure line so I don't care about the one on there now. Just need to get the bolt unfroze from the banjo fitting/washers.
I got the high pressure hose off.....one question I have is that I noticed the stock line has a little rubber seal where it connects to the pump...the driftmotion line just has 2 copper washers....is that fine or do I need to reuse the rubber seal
 

suprarx7nut

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SupraTrbo89

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20160501_140321.jpg

I believe the bolt i backed out was suppose to stay with the pump....there is even a rubber seal on the end of the bolt for inside the pump.

That was all seized together....even though i have the new line i think i may have to recycle the bolt on the end in the pic
 

SupraTrbo89

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I am now removing the two lines from the rack.....they also have the same copper gasket piece preventing me from turning the bolts unless i apply a lot of force and snap the copper gasket.....is there something I am missing here as far as unbolting these banjo fittings? These copper gaskets get hung up on the flanges on the banjo fittings......should i be bending these flanges out of the way?
 

Asterix

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The copper gaskets are crush washers, same sort as used on brake line banjo fittings to seal high-pressure fittings. Toyota made the two into one to make assembly easier. The bolt should come out of the banjo. In your photo above, the bolt you removed with the o-ring should have stayed in the pump. The bridge between top and bottom crush washers should not get in your way at all when you remove the center bolt. The banjo does not turn - only the bolt through the banjo turns.

In the link above by suprarx7nut, bolts marked 44411C and 44406C are the ones to remove. 44406B and 44327A are the crush washers. These crush washers should not be reused. The bolts can be reused.
 

suprarx7nut

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Asterix probably addressed your concerns, but don't worry if you completely ruin the copper parts. Those must be replaced with new anyways. Crush washers, like most sealing mechanisms aren't meant to seal more than once.

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk
 

SupraTrbo89

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ok thanks..ill get new copper washers from the dealer this week.

One other question....I removed the 2 12mm bolts on the intermediate shaft (not sure if both need to be removed)....one down where it connects into the rack and the other up closer to the fire wall. how do you free the intermediate shaft from the rack? The bolts are out but nothing will move.......do i need to unbolt the rack first and get it to slide out?
 

Asterix

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After you remove the bolt down at the rack, you'll probably need to spritz it with something like PB Blaster. Also, pry the ears apart a little where the bolt goes through. The splines are probably stuck together quite well.

You do need to break loose the upper connection because the steering shaft has to get shorter in order for it to slip off the rack. The upper connection sets the overall length. Spritz it as well, and pry the ears apart a little with a big screwdriver and it should slide better.

You only need to remove the lower bolt.
 

SupraTrbo89

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Appreciate it....that clears it up for me.

Last thing i need to do other than what you just mentioned is break the bolts loose at the the tie rod ends. When i go to use a breaker bar the wheels turn on me....can i just let the wheel lock itself to break them lose.....i have not disconnected the intermediate shaft yet....i wouldn't want the wheel moving if that was disconnected.....unfortunately no air tools. On the rack itself i have the 2 large bolts only broken loose but not removed at this point.

Thanks again for the tips.
 

Asterix

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Using the steering wheel lock to keep the wheels from turning should work ok. Or, turn the wheels all the way until they hit the stops. The tie rod nuts shouldn't need lots of torque to break loose. Definitely leave the two rack mounts tight until everything else is off.
 

BigKO

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And they are standardized in sized. Just make sure you have metric units.
I just finished a power steering rack replacement myself while doing the sub-frame poly bushing install front and rear.

They are standardized sizes but I had a hell of a time sourcing them locally at any auto parts store. I believe the pressure hose (from driftmotion) comes with the proper size copper crush washers (16mm i.d. ), one per end. They eliminate the banjo bolt so the bridged crush washer is not necessary, though you could purchase one of those and cut off the bridge in a pinch.

A couple things to note: The low pressure return hose, which ultimately runs to your power steering cooler is *not* 16mm i.d. I believe it is 17mm. These should be ordered from Toyota unless you feel comfortable boring out the center hole on 16mm copper crush washers, which is less than ideal.

Hope that helps.
 

SupraTrbo89

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Yes, the driftmotion line does come with the two copper washers so I'm covered there. I will need to get 2 copper washers from the dealer where the low pressure side connects to the rack.

At this point everything has been unbolted except one of the driver side bolts holding the rack clamp which isn't to bad to get to. Then I just need to get the intermediate shaft to slide up toward the steering wheel and I'm good. Some of the bolts were a major pain in the ass with this job. I got both bolts for the high and low lines connecting to the rack and the tough passenger side rack clamp bolt from up above. I had 3 long extensions on a breaker bar.
 

SupraTrbo89

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The rack is out however I ran into a slight problem. Pics below. I did make match marks so i know where the intermediate shaft reconnects once i get it separated from the rack......please confirm the one pick is where i should pry to separate it. 20160503_215608.jpg 20160503_215617.jpg
 

BigKO

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I had the same problem you did with the pumps banjo bolt. It took a small breaker bar for me as well. I think it's a symptom of overtightening, but I couldn't identify a reason either.

As for the intermediate shafts, I didn't remove mine as the reman'd rack came with new intermediate shafts, so I used the supplied ones.
 

SupraTrbo89

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I finally separated the intermediate shaft from the rack after a lot of prying and hammering. I have my driftmotion high pressure line and my new tie rod ends (with the proper spacing) installed on the new rack. Now to reinstall everything.
 
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SupraTrbo89

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I ordered new washers for the power steering return line from the dealer. I haven't picked them up yet however the guy from the dealer told me they are not copper. Does anyone know about the switch from copper to another metal. Should I not use them and just purchase the 16mm copper crush washers from Driftmotion? I would buy them at a local parts store however it was noted earlier in this thread by someone they are hard to come by.
 

SupraTrbo89

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Regarding the nuts for the outer tie rods.....I have to back the nuts off slightly to get the cotter pins in so the bolt really isn't tight. That doesn't give me the warm fuzzies b/c if the cotter pin ever wore out the nut could come off. Do people generally use lock tight here?
 

SupraTrbo89

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I ordered new washers for the power steering return line from the dealer. I haven't picked them up yet however the guy from the dealer told me they are not copper. Does anyone know about the switch from copper to another metal. Should I not use them and just purchase the 16mm copper crush washers from Driftmotion? I would buy them at a local parts store however it was noted earlier in this thread by someone they are hard to come by.
The dealer gave me the wrong washers. Ill be stopping into the dealer later today to show him the old ones and the TSRM. There is no part number for these in the TSRM which makes it difficult.
 

BigKO

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The dealer gave me the wrong washers. Ill be stopping into the dealer later today to show him the old ones and the TSRM. There is no part number for these in the TSRM which makes it difficult.
I had the same problem. They seem to have a really hard time getting the correct part number... even when pointed out to them on the diagram.
 

SupraTrbo89

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Everything is pretty much back together.....just need to put in the reservoir and 2 hoses up top. Can I use Prestone synthetic fluid or should I go with dealer fluid? Also, getting the air out of the lines....wheels on the car, car on the ground and turn the wheel all the way to each side a few times?

Over all this project was a pain in the ass. It look me a while to figure out how to get to some of the bolts and understand how everything works. Not sure which project I hate more, this or valve seal replacement with the head still on. I like doing these projects b/c it helps me understand the car and also gives me the satisfaction of telling people I did all the work.

Thanks again
 

Asterix

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I've had good results with Mobil 1 ATF. You need a Dexron III-compatible fluid, so as long as it says that on the bottle, you're good. Don't use "PSF" - use ATF.

While you're at it, you should inspect the reservoir and probably clean it. Typically, the screen in there gets all clogged up and needs to be cleaned. That is the only filter in the system.

Fill up the reservoir and get ready to add more after starting the car, after you run it from lock to lock a few times.
 

SupraTrbo89

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I've had good results with Mobil 1 ATF. You need a Dexron III-compatible fluid, so as long as it says that on the bottle, you're good. Don't use "PSF" - use ATF.

While you're at it, you should inspect the reservoir and probably clean it. Typically, the screen in there gets all clogged up and needs to be cleaned. That is the only filter in the system.

Fill up the reservoir and get ready to add more after starting the car, after you run it from lock to lock a few times.
Ok Thanks....I don't even recall seeing a screen in the PS reservoir unless its down in there about half way. I will check tonight. Also, would you happen to remember how much ATF the system holds?
 

Nick M

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Regarding the nuts for the outer tie rods.....I have to back the nuts off slightly to get the cotter pins in so the bolt really isn't tight. That doesn't give me the warm fuzzies b/c if the cotter pin ever wore out the nut could come off. Do people generally use lock tight here?
It can come off.



Lock tight is not used.
 

SupraTrbo89

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Does anyone know if the screen inside the power steering reservoir tank should rest on the ledge half way down inside the tank or on the bottom? I checked the TSRM and didn't seen anything. Resting on the ledge doesn't make sense to me b/c the the return line inlet on the side of the reservoir is below that ledge so no fluid would ever pass through the screen. If on the bottom is correct then my screen was fine the whole time before I fished it out.
 

SupraTrbo89

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So I read a lot of older threads on adding an in line filter. I am going to go with a Magnefine 3/8 for the low pressure side. Does it matter if I install this under the car near the rack or up top near the reservoir?

Also, after fishing out my screen from the reservoir its ruined so I don't plan on using it since I'll have the Magnefine filter

Another thing worth noting I wish I knew before fishing out my screen....the top of the power steering reservoir comes off so you can easily get the screen out and clean it
 

Asterix

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The easiest place to add the filter is behind the bumper not far from where the "cooler" is. The "cooler" is just a loop of pipe. I cut off the u-turn closest to the hood latch to add my filter with a tiny pipe cutter. The right size hose will just push onto the pipe far enough to get a couple of hose clamps on it. Then, mount the filter behind the bumper.
 

SupraTrbo89

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The easiest place to add the filter is behind the bumper not far from where the "cooler" is. The "cooler" is just a loop of pipe. I cut off the u-turn closest to the hood latch to add my filter with a tiny pipe cutter. The right size hose will just push onto the pipe far enough to get a couple of hose clamps on it. Then, mount the filter behind the bumper.
Thanks for the info. I looked under the hood and located the loop of pipe - never noticed that before. I'm not 100% sure I want to cut out a section of the metal pipe so I may try and insert the filter between one of the rubber hoses. My filter is in the mail and I noticed it is directional. Can you confirm the fluid leaves out the bottom of the reservoir and comes back in on the side of the reservoir? I may try and connect the filter to the rubber section that connects to the side the reservoir or the rubber section right before it connects to the steering rack. I'll decide once the filter comes in the mail in a few days and I have an idea of its size.
 

SupraTrbo89

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I finally got the filter installed. I chose to install it right as the low pressure hose comes out of the rack in a section of rubber hose so I didn't have to cut the metal "cooler" pipe which was the other option. I will fill it with mobil 1 ATF tomorrow and bleed the system and take it for a spin. 20160528_214521_001 (1).jpg
 

Asterix

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I cut my "cooler" so very many years ago... But I didn't know about the Magnefine filters back then, either.
 

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SupraTrbo89

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So I added one full quart of mobile 1 atf and it appears to be full. I was expecting at least 2. The pump is wining a little when I turn the wheel and it didn't do that before the install. The small bubbles seem to have gone away and it looks like the fluid is cycling through the system. How long does it take to get the air out?

Update: I believe I have gotten all the air out. The TSRM says when you get to full lock hold it for 2 - 3 seconds which I wasn't doing.
 
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