Question about shorting TEMS terminals

sinistar_xx

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I am confused by the repair manual's instructions for short circuiting the TEMS terminals and what I actually see on the diag port on my '89 NA. As you can see in my pic, the terminal label inside the lid of my diag port does not have "TEM" or "E2", but there's a "TE1" and a "TE2" (and a lot of gunk, hopefully dielectric grease). Can someone confirm which terminals I should short? Also, I've never shorted anything on purpose before, but I'm assuming you can do this by sticking the ends of a paper clip or similar (solid wire?) into the respective terminals?

diag port.jpg

tems manual.jpg
 
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debrucer

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I'm no help. Spent the last 15 minutes trying to answer the question for myself. My front TEMS units are a new re-addition, and my rear units have been off for years. I recently obtained new (used) ones and working on installing with shock tower braces in place. With no electricity, ECU or engine wiring harness in car, there was no way that I saw to pre-set them so they've be correctly positioned, and in sync with each other. Looks like the trick is to use this jumper wire in the diagnostic port to force them all to the same mode... remove them and don't turn them. That ship has left the dock for my car. My car is miles away so I can't check the diagnostic port for markings... but, please, please post more about your solution. I need this info, too. Thanks and good luck :)
 

Bru

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The system should reinitialize without going through that procedure. The direction the center valve should be pointing is described in the spring and shock removal section. Set it to either normal or sport then move the electronic actuator by hand to that position and lay it on top loosely. Now with the ignition, on check the function by pressing the button for the opposite setting and check and see if it moved to the proper direction.
If it's working properly, tighten it down to the torque spec.
 

alcyon

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I assume you want to short it because you want it left in the hard position. IMHO, its not needed.
Just leave it in soft and remove the tems actuators. Toyota recommeneds doing this because its easier to align when the actuator is in HARD and new TEMS shocks come pre set to hard. It is no problem at all to leave it in soft and you just need small short needle nose pliers to turn the shocks to soft position. If it aligns its easy to see .
 
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sinistar_xx

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I actually just wanted to try and reset them whole system properly as per the manual after I had to replace one of the actuators. Also wanted to get familiar with it because removing all the struts to replace the coil springs is in the near future as well.

But either way, yeah, it does seem like you can manually position everything as well.
 

Piratetip

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What do you mean.?
Your diagnostic port has a Ts.
It's right next to the Tt.

Bottom right corner.
 

sinistar_xx

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What do you mean.?
Your diagnostic port has a Ts.
It's right next to the Tt.

Bottom right corner.
Yes you're right. When I went back to look at the pic before replying I somehow missed that part of it.

Still don't understand why it's so different than the labeling the Toyota repair manual provides.
 

Piratetip

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There are differences between wiring on 7MGE & 7MGTE.
 

alcyon

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I actually just wanted to try and reset them whole system properly as per the manual after I had to replace one of the actuators. Also wanted to get familiar with it because removing all the struts to replace the coil springs is in the near future as well.

But either way, yeah, it does seem like you can manually position everything as well.
No need to reset, just plug it in and turn the key to ON. it will follow the last setting of the button.