Project Ookii Ao: Road to 500whp

suprarx7nut

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1576166343656.png

Kaminari fitment is not great. Kinda disappointed in that.
 

suprarx7nut

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Looking good to me. what’s the problem?.
Mounting holes are off by a significant margin. I had to dremel away sheet metal in the hatch. Some holes were off to the rear, others to the front. The wings can't use both threaded mounts without a LOT of dremel work. I have them installed with just one right now and will likely leave it like that to minimize the surgery on the body.

The wing tips don't hug the car very well. On the driver's side, the tip is like 1/8" away from the car body. It's just not molded similar enough to the body when mounting holes are aligned.

The rear curvature of the hatch is not matched by the wing. The hatch has a curve, the wing does not. So you end up with this weird, obviously aftermarket, mate that just looks off. That's only noticeable with the hatch open... I think. But still... I don't know. I like the overall look a lot, but the quality/precision of the part is not good.

It's my fault for not checking fitment beforehand. I was rushed in the whole job and didn't really have the time to attempt fitment before paint. Not sure what I would have done anyways. I'll document more on that later. I shot video of the issue.
 

A70nut

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I feel that this is a problem with aftermarket mass produced parts, even if modeled off of one car or a couple cars you cant assure that the parts will fit a big number of supras due to manufacturing differences which leads to fit issues on some cars.
 

suprarx7nut

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I feel that this is a problem with aftermarket mass produced parts, even if modeled off of one car or a couple cars you cant assure that the parts will fit a big number of supras due to manufacturing differences which leads to fit issues on some cars.
If my mass produced unbent, clean, original OEM spoiler parts slip right on and off with perfect alignment, I expect the aftermarket part to do the same, plus or minus the mounting hole tolerances. The mounting holes are generous, too. We're not talking 1mm clearance holes here. The sheetl metal in the car allows like 3X the bolt diameter to clear through. The Kaminari spoiler is that far off and then some.

I don't know, but I can't imagine the sheet metal on mk3's has varying hole placements in those stamped parts. The spoilers from the factory didn't need any tweaking - why should aftermarket parts?

My thought is that the shops doing aftermarket parts like this generally don't take the time and energy to engineer every part to perfection and just say, "Professional Auto Body installation required" and let the end user sort it out. In reality, this should be a plug n play part.
 
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debrucer

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<snip>

Kaminari fitment is not great. Kinda disappointed in that.
My right front side molding isn't secured yet because of the Kaminari front bumper fitment. It's either getting up under there and doing some body work, or trimming the side molding with a razor blade. I'm not one for butchering parts, so this job lingers :(
 

suprarx7nut

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My right front side molding isn't secured yet because of the Kaminari front bumper fitment. It's either getting up under there and doing some body work, or trimming the side molding with a razor blade. I'm not one for butchering parts, so this job lingers :(
That seems so crazy to me that an established company would have fitment issues like that, but it's a recurring theme in the aftermarket auto world. Makes me think there's a massive hole in the market for a properly engineered parts manufacturer.
 
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A70nut

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If my mass produced unbent, clean, original OEM spoiler parts slip right on and off with perfect alignment, I expect the aftermarket part to do the same, plus or minus the mounting hole tolerances. The mounting holes are generous, too. We're not talking 1mm clearance holes here. The sheetl metal in the car allows like 3X the bolt diameter to clear through. The Kaminari spoiler is that far off and then some.

I don't know, but I can't imagine the sheet metal on mk3's has varying hole placements in those stamped parts. The spoilers from the factory didn't need any tweaking - why should aftermarket parts?

My thought is that the shops doing aftermarket parts like this generally don't take the time and energy to engineer every part to perfection and just say, "Professional Auto Body installation required" and let the end user sort it out. In reality, this should be a plug n play part.
Now I dont know if this is 100% true and it should completely be taken with a grain of salt but I have been told that the turbo cars were shipped out of the factory without spoilers and it was a during the PDI that the spoilers were put on there just like newer model camrys that were optioned to have spoilers, but they were dealer installed. But yes, I agree all the cars should be the same and the part should fit all the cars if the time was taken to properly R&D the part before release.
 

suprarx7nut

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Now I dont know if this is 100% true and it should completely be taken with a grain of salt but I have been told that the turbo cars were shipped out of the factory without spoilers and it was a during the PDI that the spoilers were put on there just like newer model camrys that were optioned to have spoilers, but they were dealer installed. But yes, I agree all the cars should be the same and the part should fit all the cars if the time was taken to properly R&D the part before release.
I don't think that's the case for 89+ at least. The mounting holes were painted with OEM paint along the inner edge of the holes. If the spoilers were added after factory, I think there'd be a visible touch up paint line on those holes. Looked like it was part of the stamping and the holes were present before initial paint.

There are two separate part numbers for the TWC (NA) and Turbo (TWT) as well. I think the only difference would be the spoiler holes.

1576383325053.png
 

A70nut

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Does your spoiler have any issues with the inside body mating corner of the winglets (where it meets the edge of the quarter for the trunk jam) having a gap? Test fitting it looks like my bolt holes will line up but it has a major gap there on both sides. I also have little chunks missing out of the bottom corners on the hatch part of the spoiler, maybe they're from manufacturing?
 

suprarx7nut

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Does your spoiler have any issues with the inside body mating corner of the winglets (where it meets the edge of the quarter for the trunk jam) having a gap? Test fitting it looks like my bolt holes will line up but it has a major gap there on both sides. I also have little chunks missing out of the bottom corners on the hatch part of the spoiler, maybe they're from manufacturing?
I don't think I have that issue. Did you test fitment with the plastic mounting triangles installed along the hatch edge? I think I had the opposite problem. I had to file down the inside of the material around the mount tabs for the winglets along the hatch.

Little chunks missing. Depends how big you're talking. I had many pinholes that required body filler. It was far from "ready to shoot".

I haven't reached out for any help from Kaminari because up until purchase they were really hard to reach. If I asked 6 questions in an email they gave me a single 5 word sentence that answered one question. No heading, no greeting, no closing. Not exactly professional.

I don't have much confidence they'll bother replying to an email if I bring up any problems... :(
 

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Recently, while bolting down all the front nose, grill and lights, discovered a gap between my Kaminari front bumper cover and the car. It has never been obvious because nothing was buckled up... now that it is, it looks awful :(. It's about two inches long, triangular shape, at the widest at least 1/8th of an inch. It'll never be a show car. I think I know every scratch and flaw. So I'll get over it.

In complete agreement with others here... this should not be this way.
 

SupraTrbo89

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Recently, while bolting down all the front nose, grill and lights, discovered a gap between my Kaminari front bumper cover and the car. It has never been obvious because nothing was buckled up... now that it is, it looks awful :(. It's about two inches long, triangular shape, at the widest at least 1/8th of an inch. It'll never be a show car. I think I know every scratch and flaw. So I'll get over it.

In complete agreement with others here... this should not be this way.
Do you have a pic? This is annoying to me bc I was eventually going to buy the side skirts and wing. I understand fitment issues with Ebay stuff but assumed the Kaminari products were good.
 

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Do you have a pic? This is annoying to me bc I was eventually going to buy the side skirts and wing. I understand fitment issues with Ebay stuff but assumed the Kaminari products were good.
This was the photo I supplied yesterday prior to taking one specifically of the flaw:
52745186-F701-4F99-8109-8DC28EDB2664.jpeg
The one above does NOT show the issue.

Here is a photo taken today with the real issue shows:

That's my Kaminari front bumper cover and the left front corner lamp.

bumper-front-gap.JPG

Original description from memory was "about two inches long, triangular shape, at the widest at least 1/8th of an inch"

The picture shows that it's more like 5 inches long, and the width at the widest point about an 1/8th of an inch.
 
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SupraTrbo89

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This is what I'm currently dealing with, and this is bolted down mind you.




Seems as kaminari is letting lower than ideal quality products out the door. I'm strongly considering going stock wing as the fit on this would drive me nuts overtime.
No one would ever see the pics from the underside but the wing sticking up a little on the side of the rear quarter panel would drive me nuts. I wanted to buy the kaminari wing or one of retro specs wing lips. Both are no longer options for me.
 

suprarx7nut

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This was the photo I supplied yesterday prior to taking one specifically of the flaw:
View attachment 82794
The one above does NOT show the issue.

Here is a photo taken today with the real issue shows:

That's my Kaminari front bumper cover and the left front corner lamp.

View attachment 82873

Original description from memory was "about two inches long, triangular shape, at the widest at least 1/8th of an inch"

The picture shows that it's more like 5 inches long, and the width at the widest point about an 1/8th of an inch.
Eek. I'm sorry to hear/see that.

This is what I'm currently dealing with, and this is bolted down mind you.




Seems as kaminari is letting lower than ideal quality products out the door. I'm strongly considering going stock wing as the fit on this would drive me nuts overtime.
I have the EXACT same problem which tells me it's a mold problem. Worst yet, it's driver's side so you're going to be staring straight at it in the mirror. Ugh.

Can we work together on getting some coordinated feedback and a request to fix to Kaminari? I'm all for working through the problem with them if they'll work with us to fix it, but fear I'll be ignored. If two of us hit them at once, maybe they'll be forced to take some action.


No one would ever see the pics from the underside but the wing sticking up a little on the side of the rear quarter panel would drive me nuts. I wanted to buy the kaminari wing or one of retro specs wing lips. Both are no longer options for me.
The underside fit is weird. Like.... you guys had to make a mold. Why the hell wouldn't you at least attempt to follow the body contours?
 
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A70nut

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Eek. I'm sorry to hear/see that.



I have the EXACT same problem which tells me it's a mold problem. Worst yet, it's driver's side so you're going to be staring straight at it in the mirror. Ugh.

Can we work together on getting some coordinated feedback and a request to fix to Kaminari? I'm all for working through the problem with them if they'll work with us to fix it, but fear I'll be ignored. If two of us hit them at once, maybe they'll be forced to take some action.




The underside fit is weird. Like.... you guys had to make a mold. Why the hell wouldn't you at least attempt to follow the body contours?
I have been in talks today with Pete, the owner of kaminari, he is confident there is no issue with the mold despite the fact it fits the car so poorly. He is going to send me another wing which I fear will be the same result. Waiting to see, at which point I will really be left with no other option than to go back stock. Message rodel on facebook and tell him about your issue. Tell him corey sent you.
 

suprarx7nut

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Update: After a VERY long time not making any progress on re-assembly I got some things done today.

Rear mudguards installed.

Bumper supports installed.

That's it, haha.

I'm hoping to start rolling on this now that my other two vehicles are less needy.

The motor is smoking more and more oil as time goes on. In the past year I have not really driven it, aside from to the emissions place and back. I'm sure that's not doing valve seals, piston rings or any other seals any favors.

Watch out for more updates in coming months!
 

suprarx7nut

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Close up of the front bumper and nose cone paint. Some areas came out with nearly no orange peel texture, even before sanding. Pretty amazing how nicely that Deltron clear lays down if you get it just right. I don't know how to make that happen all the time, but I do get lucky every now and then!

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debrucer

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Looks great! My nose piece was off for years waiting to find the clip for the emblem. I definitely appreciate the effort required to get it back on. I think there was something like 12 fasteners to get it in place :) <sigh> You've probably still got that ahead of you, unless you can't find the clip and end up securing the emblem some other way... like 3M cement :) Car looks great though... worth the effort to look so good.
 
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suprarx7nut

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Progress on the paint and reassembly has been slow, but we're getting there. Trim is mid-paint now. Recent teasers below. Hint: that white lettering is impossible to do by hand. New approach being tried below. I'm feeling good with the new method.

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1600175023209.png
 
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suprarx7nut

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Dang! That looks factory new! What's the new method? White base, colored overcoat, then gently sanding the top color down? (I know nothing about paint...)
Yeah, you almost got it. The process is:

1. Prep base material for paint (sand/scuff/clean/adhesion promoter/epoxy primer)
2. Base coat in Toyota Super White II
3. Clear coat (regular gloss 2 part clear)
4. Wait overnight so the clear over the white completely cures and becomes impervious to solvent (important for step 6)
5. Base coat the entire part in the final main color (Teal Metallic in this case)
6. With extreme watch-maker-ish caution use solvent on a q-tip/rag to melt away the base teal color from the tops of the letters you want to be white. You can erase the teal base without doing anything at all to the white.
7. Clear over the entire part like normal.

I tried and failed with hand painting first before hitting reset and trying the above method. Learned it on YouTube in about 10 minutes, haha. It's stuff like this that makes me interested in chemistry.

This should be more durable than factory new. The factory method seemed to be a simple ink-pad style stamp with no clear coat.

The real challenge is the flexible translucent trim on top of the molding (not pictured in my pictures because I removed it prior to paint). I'm trying to find a low volume plastic extrusion shop that can make some brand new stuff for me. So far, I got a setup estimate of $6k. Eek.
 
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Piratetip

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Great method!
Looks good, very good.