Project: Git'R driving...a VERY short build

supraguy@aol

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Well, I got the shift knob done.





PS- forgot to add to the to-do list:
Replace clutch(again). I bought a stage 3 clutch a while back, and need to install it at some point. The existing clutch doesn't slip yet, but it's close.
 
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supraguy@aol

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Another update:

Since I had gone ahead and pretty much violated the original plan of keeping the car stock,
I thought I may as well find out what all my updates had done to the car.
To recap:
Apexi intake
HKS super drager exhaust
3" down pipe
57 trim turbo
560cc injectors
Lexus afm
Apexi neo fuel computer
Manual boost controller







I have no idea what the boost level was, since I have no boost gauge. All I know is that the stock gauge would go to the top, and after smelling burning clutch on the first pull, I dialed the mbc back a touch, and no more smell. I'm guessing it to be somewhere around 10 to 12psi.

Also, this is with a catalytic converter installed, so I'm happy.

EDIT- After putting in a boost gauge, I believe I was at around 12-13psi.
 
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supraguy@aol

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One issue I've had ever since I swapped the turbo and injectors...
The bypass valve never seems to open any more. I just get the rapid stutter of backpressure against the compressor wheel.
So, I upgraded my bypass valve yesterday, with the only oem-looking, plug&play performance bypass valve I know of:






Looks great, and fits great. Problem is it didn't fix the stutter/flutter problem.
There's vacuum at the line, but I suspect that the silicone vac hose is collapsing or something, when I let off the throttle.
Just another little issue to resolve, I guess.
 
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supraguy@aol

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So...what's the latest?
I finally replaced my original oem pressure plate for a slightly stronger one, so hopefully, no more slipping clutch,
and I can add some boost. I won't do that however, until I install my boost gauge, so that I know what I'm running. I'm just waiting on a harness plug for it,
so maybe that'll happen next week. Also, I swapped the new FR500's from my '88 project car, over to this one. I want to sell off the XXR's, and get another new set of wheels for the '88.

You'll notice that I added a tint to the fog lights as well:





She's running well, and there's really only two other changes I want to do to the car:
New Tokico illumina TEMS struts
Euro half clear front turn signals.

THEN....I'm done.














....I think...
 
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supraguy@aol

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Oops- I forgot to mention:
I ended up replacing my 12 year old CSF aluminum rad, because it developed a couple of very slow leaks.






Also, I bought new inner and outer tie rods, since they were rusted together and couldn't be adjusted. Also, new rack boots because the old ones were torn,
And new front wheel bearings, because the right side makes a little noise. But other than that....it's done.







....really....











OK. I also want to replace the windshield, to get rid of the little chips.....but THAT'S IT.
 
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supraguy@aol

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Well,
First of all:

FUCK PHOTOBUCKET. They are holding everyone's pics for ransom, by saying you have to upgrade to a $400 membership to get the linking ability back.

So, I have gone through, and painstakingly replaced all of my links(or at least as many as I could find) with those of a different site.
I am NOT looking forward to doing this on my other build thread.

That being said, The car is exactly the way it was, when I last posted, back in November of last year.
I haven't done a single thing to the car.




























...ok... that's not quite true...



























But not much has been done to it.

I did finally get both front and rear Illumina shocks, and those are in.
I replaced all of the intercooler hoses with silicone, after one of them split.
I rebuilt the diff with a Weir stage 1 and solid pinion spacer.
I replaced the rear subframe bushings.
I replaced the steering rack bushings.
I replaced the AC compressor and drier.










Oh, and I added a boost gauge, like I said I would. But where is it?



There it is...





Oh, and finally came across one of these little gems...

 
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supraguy@aol

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Oh, and one other upgrade, and this one is also nearly invisible; a new intercooler.
I had heard that the stock one was good, but not great. I don't know if the one I bought is any better, but it is bigger.



Took me a bit of messing around, swapping couplers, and twisting things, but I got this one to fit in the stock location,
without it being obvious. Here's some pics:














 
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supraguy@aol

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Other things I failed to mention:
I replaced the upper and lower hatch glass trim pieces with brand new units
New front tires
New windshield was put in back in April

Still on my To-Do list, are the following:

Replace the tint on both door windows. Its peeling a bit.
Replace the driver's side lower rear control arm. The camber bolt is frozen into it.
Re-remove the diff, and tighten up the pinion lash.

And truly, that's about it, until something breaks or wears out. I plan to dyno the car again this week,
just to see what it does with a clutch that doesn't slip.
 

GC89

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Jealous of that EAC controller. And that intercooler should be much more efficient.







Now get to work on the 88 Diego!
 

supraguy@aol

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Jealous of that EAC controller. And that intercooler should be much more efficient.


Now get to work on the 88 Diego!
I was! just today! She's tuned well enough now on the DET3, that I will finish the last two wire connections, and close up the dash, and begin stripping the moldings and trim, for paint work. Not looking forward to it, yet looking forward to it as well.
 

supraguy@aol

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Whadup!
No, The 88 will likely be a weekend car/ garage queen.

I was supposed to head out of town today on a trip, but the plane had an engine issue, so I was off.
Here's what I did today:









Don't know if they'll have a trip for me tomorrow, but the next step is to strip the doors of their interior panels, speaker pods, windows, moldings and trim,
as well as the door frame moldings and targa seals.
 
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supraguy@aol

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One last thing(lol..."last thing"...)

I went back to the dyno the other day, just to see if a new clutch and intercooler would help matters.





Here is a best run from last year, and a best run from this year. Finally broke 300, and that's all I need from this girl.
It's on the '88 to make the real power.
 
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supraguy@aol

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How many pounds of boost was this on? Looks good!
Thanks- Approximately 12psi. The boost would hit as high as 15, then immediately back off to 12.
You can see where power plateaus at about 4200, then starts a shallower climb to max hp by 4800. It's even more noticeable on the torque line at the same RPM.
The theory is, that the spring inside my $8 boost controller can't handle 15psi, but I also suspect the oem wastegate tension might be a contributing factor,
so just 10 minutes ago, I shimmed the wastegate by 2 washers, just to make sure that the wastegate door stayed seated better.
 

GC89

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You're running a 57 trim correct? The washers should help, in my experience most boost controllers, manual or electronic struggle near double wastegate pressure.
 

supraguy@aol

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Yup, a 57 trim. And an update:
WOW. That 5 minute fix made a difference. I went from 12 psi, to holding 18psi.
Now I have to back down the boost controller, back to 15psi, lol.
 

supraguy@aol

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A quick update:



A couple weeks ago, I was cruising down the highway, and noticed that my temp started spiking. I pulled over, and found that the car had puked a bunch of coolant out of the radiator, and it was pretty rusty/ ugly looking. I decided to pull the head, on the assumption that it was the head gasket, turns out I was right.

When I got the car, I found that it had ARP’s, but didn’t know what type of gasket it had. Turns out is was just a composite Felpro. It blew in the classic 7mgte fashion, distorting it’s #6 fire ring, and all of the surrounding copper coolant ports.

Since I already had a spare head, I decided to send it to the machine shop for decking, even before I got the head off. I also ordered a cometic head gasket, as well as some comp cams bbc springs. This way, I had a ready to go head, in case anything turned out to be wrong with the original head. Also, since it seemed like some of the rear studs had loosened up a bit, I also ordered ARP insert washers.

Well. After cleaning the block deck to inspect it, I found a slight bit of deterioration ( a couple of gouges, about .25mm deep) near the #3 cylinder, where the fire ring would have to seal. This meant that if I wanted the peace of mind of an mhg, I was going to have to pull the block, disassemble it, and have it decked.

Well, if i’m going that far, I decided to just use my backup engine, the one from my project ‘88. It already has a decked surface for an mhg, and it also has probe pistons, and arp’s in the rods.
So now, I’ve got a little more work ahead of me than I bargained for. :(

Aside from this bad news, I did install some poly engine mounts, redid my differential, and installed an energy suspension rear poly bushing kit.

 
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plaaya69

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That sucks but atlest it will be improved with a metal head gasket once done. Do you know many miles were on that Felpro head gasket or if it was ever torqued higher than the factory specs?
 

supraguy@aol

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Well, the '88 already has a fully forged bottom end- Cunningham rods, Wiseco pistons, all ARP's.
But now the '89 gets a slightly stronger bottom end.

As for that Felpro, I'm pretty sure that I had it torqued to 95ft-lbs, and I don't think there's more than 10,000 miles on it.
I used to run a Felpro with ARP's, and it lasted a good long time, and never blew. So I think this one just lost tension on the #6 studs.
Thus, the ARP insert washers this time around.
 

GC89

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Well, the '88 already has a fully forged bottom end- Cunningham rods, Wiseco pistons, all ARP's.
But now the '89 gets a slightly stronger bottom end.
Got it, I missed that it was the spare for the 88 not the engine for it. Ar the rods Cunningham std forged or titanium?
 

supraguy@aol

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Got it, I missed that it was the spare for the 88 not the engine for it. Ar the rods Cunningham std forged or titanium?
Just steel units. Got them for a good price from a member on here.
I don't have a pic yet of it, but the bottom end is fully assembled. Next I will be pulling the original block out, and swapping over the necessary parts, like motor mounts, coolant piping, etc.
And I'll give a call to the shop, and see if the head is ready for pickup.
 

supraguy@aol

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Buttoned up.





Just gotta pull the old block out. That will get rebuilt as well. The problem is, I herniated a disc in my lower back,
and am basically useless for now. So it'll have to wait.
 

supraguy@aol

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Progress has been SLOW, but not because I'm lazy.
I herniated two discs in my lower back, and its been excruciating. However, I still managed
to reassemble the newly cut head, with ARP insert washers, new oem valves, an NA intake cam, and Comp Cams BBC springs.

 

mobes

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Sorry to hear about your back. I've never herniated any discs but do have other chronic back issues and it can be discouraging sometimes.

Looks like you made good progress anyway. Progress is progress, small or not.

Good call on the ARP insert washers. I've been following that thread.
 

supraguy@aol

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Well, I thought that the insert washers would be a good idea, but apparently, the shop where I had the head work done, didn't really get what I was after. Rather than reaming the stud holes for an interference fit, they just drilled deep enough to accommodate them, but they're not super tight. This pretty much negates the reason for insert washers, since the walls of the washers will not be able to reinforce the aluminum of the head. So I was a bit pissed, but not furious, since it's not going to be a high power engine anyway. :(

Anyway, the only other work I've done to the car, was to install the thermostat housing and upper timing cover. Tomorrow, I will reinstall the upper and lower intake manifolds.
 

3p141592654

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Other things I failed to mention:
I replaced the upper and lower hatch glass trim pieces with brand new units
Any lessons learned for the hatch trim install? I've got both pieces plus the clips but super reluctant to just start pulling on the old trim to get it off. I know the bottom piece has bolts on the inside, but the top piece is a mystery to me.
 

supraguy@aol

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Any lessons learned for the hatch trim install? I've got both pieces plus the clips but super reluctant to just start pulling on the old trim to get it off. I know the bottom piece has bolts on the inside, but the top piece is a mystery to me.
The bottom is very straight forward, no worries there.
The top piece is most easily removed by sliding a small pry tool under the front edge, and popping it upward. It is held on by 5 or 6 friction clips, that hook onto matching clips that hold the glass down. To install, you must get the back edge of the trim clips onto their window mounts first, then press down the front edge. Also, the ends of the top trim, slide into the top ends of the side trim. I have new mounts and top trim. in my parts pile. I'll take some pics.
 

3p141592654

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Thanks. That's helpful to know. For the 90 degree end-clips can those be slid off first, or do you need to get the molding popped out in the middle first?
 

supraguy@aol

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More progress.
IACV, EGR and throttle body on, CPS, exhaust heat shields and turbo on.
I HIGHLY recommend remembering to put the heat shields on BEFORE the turbo...What a PITA.
Also, I happened to find in my parts pile, a harness center cover that wasn't crumbling to shreds, so I swapped it on.


 

supraguy@aol

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Well, I apologize for no pics yet, but the engine is fully reassembled, and it started up and idled on the first try.
As soon as I got it together though, I had to head out of town. I haven’t broken it in, or even driven it yet. I’ll be home Wednesday, to set the ignition timing, and flush/burp the cooling system.
 

supraguy@aol

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Well, I finally drove the car, and it seems to run fine, though the new poly motor mounts do send more vibration into the car.
One alarming thing though, is that oil pressure drops to a really low value on the gauge, once the engine is at full temp. Theres no strange noises or issues, but the needle barely reaches 15psi at 3,000rpm. When cold, it'll idle at 20-40. I just ordered a replacement oil sender, in the hopes that my issue could be that simple. In the meantime, I took it for a 4 wheel alignment. All of the values were messed up, so I'm glad I got it all zero'd in.



 

supraguy@aol

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PS-
I guess that I forgot to mention this at the time, but when I installed the replacement motor, I managed to accidentally roll the engine stand right into my driver's tail light. Finally got that replaced as well.