Since I had gone ahead and pretty much violated the original plan of keeping the car stock,
I thought I may as well find out what all my updates had done to the car.
HKS super drager exhaust
3" down pipe
57 trim turbo
Apexi neo fuel computer
Manual boost controller
I have no idea what the boost level was, since I have no boost gauge. All I know is that the stock gauge would go to the top, and after smelling burning clutch on the first pull, I dialed the mbc back a touch, and no more smell. I'm guessing it to be somewhere around 10 to 12psi.
Also, this is with a catalytic converter installed, so I'm happy.
EDIT- After putting in a boost gauge, I believe I was at around 12-13psi.
One issue I've had ever since I swapped the turbo and injectors...
The bypass valve never seems to open any more. I just get the rapid stutter of backpressure against the compressor wheel.
So, I upgraded my bypass valve yesterday, with the only oem-looking, plug&play performance bypass valve I know of:
Looks great, and fits great. Problem is it didn't fix the stutter/flutter problem.
There's vacuum at the line, but I suspect that the silicone vac hose is collapsing or something, when I let off the throttle.
Just another little issue to resolve, I guess.
So...what's the latest?
I finally replaced my original oem pressure plate for a slightly stronger one, so hopefully, no more slipping clutch,
and I can add some boost. I won't do that however, until I install my boost gauge, so that I know what I'm running. I'm just waiting on a harness plug for it,
so maybe that'll happen next week. Also, I swapped the new FR500's from my '88 project car, over to this one. I want to sell off the XXR's, and get another new set of wheels for the '88.
You'll notice that I added a tint to the fog lights as well:
She's running well, and there's really only two other changes I want to do to the car:
New Tokico illumina TEMS struts
Euro half clear front turn signals.
Oops- I forgot to mention:
I ended up replacing my 12 year old CSF aluminum rad, because it developed a couple of very slow leaks.
Also, I bought new inner and outer tie rods, since they were rusted together and couldn't be adjusted. Also, new rack boots because the old ones were torn,
And new front wheel bearings, because the right side makes a little noise. But other than that....it's done.
OK. I also want to replace the windshield, to get rid of the little chips.....but THAT'S IT.
FUCK PHOTOBUCKET. They are holding everyone's pics for ransom, by saying you have to upgrade to a $400 membership to get the linking ability back.
So, I have gone through, and painstakingly replaced all of my links(or at least as many as I could find) with those of a different site.
I am NOT looking forward to doing this on my other build thread.
That being said, The car is exactly the way it was, when I last posted, back in November of last year.
I haven't done a single thing to the car.
...ok... that's not quite true...
But not much has been done to it.
I did finally get both front and rear Illumina shocks, and those are in.
I replaced all of the intercooler hoses with silicone, after one of them split.
I rebuilt the diff with a Weir stage 1 and solid pinion spacer.
I replaced the rear subframe bushings.
I replaced the steering rack bushings.
I replaced the AC compressor and drier.
Oh, and I added a boost gauge, like I said I would. But where is it?
There it is...
Oh, and finally came across one of these little gems...
Oh, and one other upgrade, and this one is also nearly invisible; a new intercooler.
I had heard that the stock one was good, but not great. I don't know if the one I bought is any better, but it is bigger.
Took me a bit of messing around, swapping couplers, and twisting things, but I got this one to fit in the stock location,
without it being obvious. Here's some pics:
I was! just today! She's tuned well enough now on the DET3, that I will finish the last two wire connections, and close up the dash, and begin stripping the moldings and trim, for paint work. Not looking forward to it, yet looking forward to it as well.
No, The 88 will likely be a weekend car/ garage queen.
I was supposed to head out of town today on a trip, but the plane had an engine issue, so I was off.
Here's what I did today:
Don't know if they'll have a trip for me tomorrow, but the next step is to strip the doors of their interior panels, speaker pods, windows, moldings and trim,
as well as the door frame moldings and targa seals.
Thanks- Approximately 12psi. The boost would hit as high as 15, then immediately back off to 12.
You can see where power plateaus at about 4200, then starts a shallower climb to max hp by 4800. It's even more noticeable on the torque line at the same RPM.
The theory is, that the spring inside my $8 boost controller can't handle 15psi, but I also suspect the oem wastegate tension might be a contributing factor,
so just 10 minutes ago, I shimmed the wastegate by 2 washers, just to make sure that the wastegate door stayed seated better.
A couple weeks ago, I was cruising down the highway, and noticed that my temp started spiking. I pulled over, and found that the car had puked a bunch of coolant out of the radiator, and it was pretty rusty/ ugly looking. I decided to pull the head, on the assumption that it was the head gasket, turns out I was right.
When I got the car, I found that it had ARP’s, but didn’t know what type of gasket it had. Turns out is was just a composite Felpro. It blew in the classic 7mgte fashion, distorting it’s #6 fire ring, and all of the surrounding copper coolant ports.
Since I already had a spare head, I decided to send it to the machine shop for decking, even before I got the head off. I also ordered a cometic head gasket, as well as some comp cams bbc springs. This way, I had a ready to go head, in case anything turned out to be wrong with the original head. Also, since it seemed like some of the rear studs had loosened up a bit, I also ordered ARP insert washers.
Well. After cleaning the block deck to inspect it, I found a slight bit of deterioration ( a couple of gouges, about .25mm deep) near the #3 cylinder, where the fire ring would have to seal. This meant that if I wanted the peace of mind of an mhg, I was going to have to pull the block, disassemble it, and have it decked.
Well, if i’m going that far, I decided to just use my backup engine, the one from my project ‘88. It already has a decked surface for an mhg, and it also has probe pistons, and arp’s in the rods.
So now, I’ve got a little more work ahead of me than I bargained for.
Aside from this bad news, I did install some poly engine mounts, redid my differential, and installed an energy suspension rear poly bushing kit.
Well, the '88 already has a fully forged bottom end- Cunningham rods, Wiseco pistons, all ARP's.
But now the '89 gets a slightly stronger bottom end.
As for that Felpro, I'm pretty sure that I had it torqued to 95ft-lbs, and I don't think there's more than 10,000 miles on it.
I used to run a Felpro with ARP's, and it lasted a good long time, and never blew. So I think this one just lost tension on the #6 studs.
Thus, the ARP insert washers this time around.