Project: Git'R driving...a VERY short build

supraguy@aol

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#82
Got done with that. It's not perfect, but it's WAY better than seeing the yellow urethane underneath.





I still have to do the rear bumper, but I ran out of paint. Gotta get some more.
 
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Silver MK3

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#83
Wow, that came out great. I need to repaint my bumpers too and have kinda tossed around the idea of trying it myself rather than paying a shop. Any more details on how you did it?

If I bring my bumpers down to Atlanta you want to paint them for me haha:biglaugh:?
 

supraguy@aol

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#84
Ha!
You probably don't want me to. The color is slightly darker. It's close enough for me, but it's not perfect.
I basically just sanded the nose and bumper down with 220-320 grit, to get the shine of the old clearcoat off. On the parts of the bumper that had eroded urethane,
I sanded down a bit extra, to remove the dead material, and get it closer to smooth. If I had been more motivated, I would have used a little filler to get it flawless.
Wiped it all with acetone, Sprayed a touch of Bulldog adhesion promoter on the bare areas, then primed with 2 light coats. 600 grit(lightly) to get rid of any roughness,
Then 3 coats of paint, 5 minutes dry time between. 30 minutes later, 3 coats of clear, 5 minutes between. The next day, 2000grit wetsand, with lots of water.
Then rubbing compound and polishing compound, till my hands hurt.
 

supraguy@aol

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#85
Next on the to-do list.





New stock style clutch, and shifter bushing kit.
By the way- If anyone wants a good deal on the green 'truck' bushing and the lower ball socket bushing, This is a Dorman replacement kit now.
Part # 924-258. Cost me $13.95 shipped! That's less than half what it would have cost me through Toyota.
 
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supraguy@aol

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#86
So I haven't had any time over the past week to get much work done on this, but yesterday,
I did manage to remove the tranny. This allowed me to determine the reason for the constant ABS warning light;
As I pulled the tranny out from under the car, I found a spot on the ABS sensor harness where the sleeving was worn away,
and one of the three wires is torn off inside. Should be an easy fix, and will allow me to finally get rid of that last warning light.
New input and output shaft seals, as well as rear main seal are ready to go in.

Pictures will be up this evening.

PS- SO damn greasy.
 

supraguy@aol

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#87
So, I started with a greasy R154, now I have a...less-greasy R154.

Ugh:




Better:





New front input shaft is installed, as well as the ABS wire has been repaired and covered in new loom.
I also installed the new throwout bearing onto the release hub. Next is the rear main seal, and the output shaft seal.
Then it goes back in the car, I measured the old disc thickness vs. new disc- 6mm vs. 9mm. So that ought to help on grip. And hopefully, having a little less grease flying around in there will
help as well. Not sure if I'll have time to work on the car over the next couple of days, but it'll get done when it gets done.
 
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supraguy@aol

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#89
Small additional delay.

I took off the flywheel, and found that the surface was irregular, in that it had polished spots and dull spots.
This tells me that it's probably been unevenly heated during use, likely because of oil contamination.
So I need to get it machined, but I have to go out of town so it'll be a few days before I can even drop it off.
On a positive note, the existing rear main seal looks perfect, and there's no seepage. But I'll probably replace it anyway,
as a preventative measure.
 

supraguy@aol

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#90
So, I dropped off the flywheel for machining yesterday, but the guy wasn't going to be there till tomorrow, so I'll pick it up then.
In the meantime, I degreased the tranny tunnel and driveshaft, and painted the rear bumper.

Before:



During:



Almost after:



And after:



I'll wetsand the orange peel off tomorrow, and then dive into the tranny install.
 
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supraguy@aol

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#91
Welp, I completed the rear bumper today, and I'm certainly happy enough with the results I got for a daily driver.

Near side cut/ polished, far half orange peel:



Pretty glossy for rattle cans:





Bumper is done.







This pretty much ends any improvements or repairs to the exterior of the car. As I said not too long ago, there are always things to do,
to keep an old car in proper shape, but I'm nearing the end of this thread. Tomorrow, the transmission install, and then I'm nearly done.
 
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GC89

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#93
Looks great, even rattle canning it teaches you a lot about how to paint and finish properly. It looks like decent quality paint to get that finish though. I just finished fixing where someone tagged the front bumper of my truck last weekend. I chose to airbrush since it was too small for even my touch up gun. Luckily doing the whole bumpers you didn't have any blending to worry about.


While I am going to miss seeing updates on this thread I hope this means your real build will start to get some action? Mine is going to start picking up here quickly after years....... and I could use the motivation.
 

supraguy@aol

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#94
Yeah, My efforts will be put back into the '88 after this.
Part of the problem, is that I have to track down a mystery oil burning issue. Not sure if its from the turbo, the head, or the rings.
And that's got me a bit disheartened, since everything is basically new on that motor. But once that's resolved, I will continue prepping for paint.
And THAT job won't be done by me, or with any rattle cans, lol.
 

GC89

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#95
I completely understand, been there. Comp test may be a good indication but unfortunately doesn't tell you if something is up with any of the oil rings. Turbo and valve seals are pretty common culprits as it sounds you know.

As for paint its a good call, I shot mine this last time but had the hookup on a booth after hours and its not my first rodeo. The majority of the labor cost on a paint job is the prep and post work though so there is still a large amount you can do yourself.

Ever nail down when you are going to be out this way?

-R
 

supraguy@aol

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#97
Ever nail down when you are going to be out this way?

-R
Yup, Tomorrow I head out there.
Will be there through Monday. LMK if there's a time that you'll be around the Seattle area. Otherwise, I'll just plan to ship that console lid.
 

supraguy@aol

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#99
Got the tranny in today.





Just gotta connect the driveshaft tomorrow, and the exhaust.
 
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supraguy@aol

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Welp, finished the tranny, but the intermittent fuel issue I had is terminal now.
It appears that the cheap fuel pump I bought was in fact...a cheap fuel pump. In case I didn't explain it earlier:
The problem started as a no-start condition one day, about 3 weeks after replacing the fuel pump. The pump would not come on during crank.
I jumpered the Fp and B+, and at first, there would be no pump operation, but the jumper wire would start to get hot. Then, the pump usually started working in a few seconds of that.
But now, the pump will not run continuously without being jumpered, and the jumper wire still gets hot. I tested the ground for the pump, and there's almost no resistance. Then I checked
voltage at the pump plug, and its over 12 volts. So next week, I will replace the pump and see if that corrects the issue. There could be a problem with the circuit opening relay, or the FP relay, but I doubt it,
since jumpering in the diagnostic port bypasses these, and I still had the issue. Oh well, not a big deal.
 

supraguy@aol

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So, I got back in town yesterday, and my new fuel pump was waiting.
Today, I got to work replacing the replacement fuel pump, and 1hr later, she's buttoned up and running great.
I also replaced the brand new spliced-in connector because the one included with the original replacement had smaller gauge wiring.


Tank back out. Old pump still on the hanger, new(larger) pump waiting to be mounted(giggity):






By the way- if I didn't mention in a post earlier, the original pump I bought was made by Keshan. The re-replacement pump is made by CNT.
Now, both these pumps are cheapo 255lph wannabe's, but at least I found positive reviews on the CNT pump, including independent output tests, and it pretty much hit its rated volume.
Basically, my fix was to replace a $40 fuel pump....with a $30 fuel pump, lol. I know I know, I'm betting directly against "you get what you pay for", and I already lost once.
But honestly, I was simply looking for an oem replacement, not something for 400+hp. We'll see if this pump lives up to its reviews.
 
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steve_mk3

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Glad to hear you have fuel worked out

I am impressed-

"and 1hr later" - I wish I could get this done in an hour. Need to replace my fuel pump as well
 

supraguy@aol

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It's super easy, as long as you drain the tank through the bottom bolt first.
The tank itself only weighs about~35lbs.
 

supraguy@aol

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Yes sir.
I used a light coat of Bulldog prior to primer.
I found that the rear paint seemed to 'outgas' a bit after about 2 weeks, so today, I redid the wetsanding, rubbing compound and polish.
The front didn't seem to do this, but on that job, I used a 2-part clear. I'm sure it was better quality.
 

supraguy@aol

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Correct.
I tried a different brand of paint, because the front came out a shade darker than I wanted.
If I could do it over, I would use the paint from the 2nd seller, and the clearcoat from the first.
 

supraguy@aol

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So about that clutch job...

Immediately upon startup, i had a bad vibration.
My immediate guess was that the pressure plate was out of balance.
So i finally got around to re-removing the tranny, and pulling the clutch for balancing.
But i find this:




Guess it wasnt a balance issue.
This was just a cheap replacement clutch from Ebay. Not sure if the pp was defective, or if i unevenly torqued it down and caused it. Regardless, i contacted the seller, and they're sending me a new unit, no charge.



Ps, while im at it, i will be replacing the center support bearing, and also the high pressure power steering line- it looks like it has a slow leak.


This supposedly 'short' build thread continues...
 
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Silver MK3

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So about that clutch job...

Immediately upon startup, i had a bad vibration.
My immediate guess was that the pressure plate was out of balance.
So i finally got around to re-removing the tranny, and pulling the clutch for balancing.
But i find this:




Guess it wasnt a balance issue.
This was just a cheap replacement clutch from Ebay. Not sure if the pp was defective, or if i unevenly torqued it down and caused it. Regardless, i contacted the seller, and they're send me a new unit, no charge.



Ps, while im at it, i will be replacing the center support bearing, and also the high pressure power steering line- it looks like it has a slow leak.


This supposedly 'short' build thread continues...
That sucks... No such thing as a short build thread when you're anal, doing things the correct way, and dealing with nearly 30 year old supras haha
 

supraguy@aol

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So I finally got home from a 9 day trip, and found a bunch of parts waiting for me.
Took the flywheel back to the machine shop to have it checked; I wanted to make sure the pressure plate issue was just a fluke, and not an uneven mating surface.

Then I replaced my driveshaft support bearing. Much easier than I expected.





I'll try to get the new clutch installed tomorrow.
 
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supraguy@aol

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So yesterday, I got busy on replacing the bad pressure plate.
But before I went through the trouble of assembling it all, I wanted to assemble it on the bench to make sure it was all good.
So, I installed the disc, and bolted down the new, new pressure plate, in proper sequence, and looked it all over for any binding or unevenness.
Fail.

A rivet/guide that maintains the friction surface, fell out. Looks like the head of it either sheared or wasn't tight enough into the plate to lock it.
After disassembly, I saw that this caused the diaphragm spring to warp on one side, and is unusable.




So that's two for two.
I ended up cleaning up my oem pressure plate, and reinstalling it, no issues. Car is back together, and running nice, no vibration.

That teaches me to spend the extra cash for a quality clutch, period. A lesson that I'm sure a lot of you new from the start.
 
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supraguy@aol

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Update- and hopefully one of the last:
I re-upgraded my sound system. The replacement head unit from the Camry started having tapedeck issues, just like the original unit.
So, I sold out, and went modern. Complete system, minus rear speakers(haven't touched them because they sound good) was $300.
This included:
pioneer Bluetooth head unit
10" powered low profile sub
4" Kenwood front speakers
All cables, connections and harness adapter.

Sounds awesome, handsfree calling is super clear, and it's nice to have Pandora, controlled through the head unit.
I put an entire writeup in the Audio section. This is all the audio power I need for a daily.



 
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GC89

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Looks good, I expect progress on you main build now if this one is truly wrapped up! I need some motivation.
 

supraguy@aol

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Man, I know. I've ignored it for the whole summer.
I've just got to get the motivation up to hunt down the oil burning issue its having.
 

supraguy@aol

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Just a quick update on my short build thread, since I've had the car for about a year now.

Car is running and looking great, but with all things old, constant maintainence is required. Along with that, occasionally comes upgrades.
Nothing serious, just BPU. One issue the car had, was that a previous owner had installed a cb antenna right in the roof, by drilling a hole through it. I finally solved that this week, by adding SiriusXM to the stereo.




Also, the car came with a Lexus afm, so I figured, why not use it? but then I need larger injectors, so I picked up some cheap 560 evo units.
But them I'm thinking, why not use a better turbo, and someone was selling a 57 trim that needed a rebuild, so I got that as well.
But then I'm thinking, maybe a better air intake if I'm pulling in more air? So, I bought an Apexi intake.
But them Im thinking how do I tune it?, so I got a brand new Apexi Neo. But them I'm thinking, how do I know if I'm tuning it right?
So I bought a wideband unit as well.
So, now my stock, oem car has a 57 trim, 560's, Lex afm, Apexi intake, Neo and wideband, but you wouldn't know by looking at it.
All you can see is the red Apexi air filter. The rest looks stock, or is hidden.



So much for "keeping it completely stock".

There are only 3 things that remain, that I really want to do to this car:

Re-clear the hood and roof(oem clear coat is slightly dull)
Replace the original shocks with new illumina's
Get a brand new factory shift knob(I have a perfect TRD unit if anyone wants to trade)

Just wanted to let you guys know that its still holding together.
 
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Billybob9187

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What is holding the neo in place in the glove box? I am actually looking at doing something like this with my non street legal gauges and components. Have to love that Ca BS.
 

Moy

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Looking good man! I unfortunately do not have a great condition or new factory shift knob, however... I would be willing to buy that TRD knob off you ;) haha.
Or if you don't want to sell it... do you have a part number for it by chance?
 

supraguy@aol

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What is holding the neo in place in the glove box? I am actually looking at doing something like this with my non street legal gauges and components. Have to love that Ca BS.
The Neo is held in place by a lexan mount. It is simply 1/8" sheet lexan that I heated with a heat gun, and bent to roughly a 135 degree angle, and riveted it into the top edge of the glove box.
I then used 3M lock tape(like Velcro, but way stronger), so that it can be mounted, or pulled out for tuning.
 

supraguy@aol

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