7MGTE Rebuilt (no headwork done so cams and valves are stock)
- Wiseco Pistons
- Polished crank and rods
- shimmed oil pum
1000 ID Injectors
Denso MKIV Fuel pump (and reconditioned fuel tank)
HKS Longrunner Manifold (reconditioned)
*using a .75" spacer so I can swap in a QSV next year*
SP6262 0.68 ar Turbo installed
Tial 44mm Wastegate
HKS Fcon Vpro 3.3 Standalone Timing/fuel control
HKS ECS boost controller
True HKS BOV
DM Upgraded Intercooler for the 7M (CXRacing version)
HKS 3000 pipe and custom piping up top and to stock airbox with stock airfilter
New AC Components (fully functional A/C now in car)
SPEC 2+ Clutch installed with swapped out disc for an OEM disc (new)
Powder coated (to match car) intake manifold/plenum and valve covers
Stage 3 (Jack Transmission) built R154 (Currently have a spare R154 in garage)
Brembo rotors with stock MK3 calipers (no bbk yet)
3" vband custom DP with wastegate vented to atmosphere mated to a HKS twin-tip 3" Catback
The car is running solid as far as I can tell and it doesn't seem that the cratered R154 I had did any damage when it locked up. The coolant was pumping out of the reservoir, but it appears it was simply a weak rad cap. Have taken the car out for a run and it all seems to be working fine. Going to RCTS today for a final view at a small leak from the transmission (guessing its from the speedo gear).
The R154 that Jack sent me to replace the poorly done one is from a 89+ Supra so it had a different speedo gear internally. This made my car run at 15 kph faster than normal. RCTS sourced me a matched speedo external gear (Toyota 33403-19235) that made it so my 18" wheels actually make the car only 3 kph faster (at high speeds) now. This is better than original where I was 5 kph faster on the speedo than what I was doing actual.
Jack Transmission paid for all the repairs. They do truly stand behind their work 100%!
So... took it out for a burn last night for the full Stony trail (from South to 16th NW) at about 130-150 kph and then through Sarcee to Glenmore to Deerfoot to home. The car performed remarkably well although with the colder pavement, I couldn't keep the wheels on the road when boosting 2nd or 3rd once it really kicked in (4200-4600 rpm.. a little too late for my taste). Definitely going to add the QSV next year.
The engine is idling purrfectly (smoothest 7M idle that RCTS has heard) and the only problems I have is a bit of heat soak if I park it for 15 minutes after a long run and then get back in it. It throws my AFR's off a little until I get driving again for about 2-4 minutes. Not a big issue, but something I will want to address later.
The body has a little damage from the tow (rear bumper add-on has a 1" hole in it) and rock chips on the front bumper and hood. Hoping to have all this dealt with next year with a respray and 3M protector on the front and rock areas. Going to have to drill drain holes on the rear bumper addons because they are like cups holding the water if I go through a puddle or wash the car. The whale tail is excellent on the car, however, I want to make it into a 3 piece so that I don't have to hoist the whole tail when I lift the hatch. That will take a little $$.
Interior probably wont happen until 2016 because I still want to rustproof and tint the windows (and get body/paint final). Going to need to get all the steering fixed as well which will set me back another 3k+. Then finally get a different set of wheels on the car. Either staying 18 with wider rear (go from 9.5 to 10") or 17" rear with 18" front. I would like a little more hook because the tires just like breaking free.
I am planning to add Tanabe sway bars, although I am considering White as well. Wouldn't mind some comments regarding this if anyone has input.
At this point, I am probably 2 (maybe 3) years from being complete. Still love the car and do not regret one penny I have put into it.
Still considering repairing the 7M (Its a good engine still and I have another head that will probably work), going 2jz or doing a LS1/T56 swap.
In the meantime... plugging away on other components. Because I am running 18's my speedo is off a bit (3-5 kph) and most of my driving is done on highway, so I wanted a 3.73 LSD Diff. I found one in excellent condition and freshened it up.
I ended up beadblasting it (after lots of time spent wire brushing and sanding rust off the housing). I didn't have the full gear so learned in stages that you need to be covered completely and have a dust mask on... lol. Live and learn... ouch.
After getting it drained, cleaned and rust removed, I painted 3 coats (thin) of POR-15. I let that cure (dries like an enamel plating... like a bathtub) and then hit it with a Black gloss engine paint for 3 coats. Because this was done in Lloydminster and Calgary (I took it with me when I went to visit my daughter), the protection for the threads disappeared and I have some paint on them. The POR-15 "chips" off, so the nuts can just chase off any of that during install.
Jeff supplied me with the Toyota LSD oil and new drain/fill plugs with crush washers and a new breather valve. I torqued the lower drain plug to 36 ft. lbs and the fill plug to 26 ft. lbs. No idea if this is the correct torque, but I didn't want to go 36 ft. lbs on the back fill plug because its aluminum. Hopefully I did it correctly. Now it has approximately 1.35 litres of lube in (maybe slightly more because there was still a little bit of old stuff in there.. not sure how much). New LSD OIL ONLY sticker as well
My car has a 3.9 diff currently. No reason to switch other than I think the 3.73 will just suit my driving pattern far better. I rarely do any hard pulls in first/second, my boost is usually third/fourth. Most of my driving is highway. This was solely because I found someone parting with the diff for a really good price.
Also, copying my post from the Wheel Fitment post...
This is my new wheel setup. You can judge the offset by the pics...
RTX Mystique Machined/Black ET38 (offset) | HB 73.1 | 18 x 8.0 | 5x114.3 Front RIMS
Falken FK-453 235/40 FRONT
RTX Mystique Machined/Black ET42 (offset) | HB 73.1 | 18 x 890 | 5x114.3 Rear RIMS
Falken FK-453 265/35R18 REAR
I found that the Falken has a rounded sidewall which allows for the 265 on a 9" rim. Any wider (275's) and I get pretty tight to the inside of the wheel area, so I opted to live with the 265's.
No rub, no roll, no pull. Fits pretty snug. The 235's on the front are wide enough to make the car ride road ridges (which is a bit uncomfortable) but gives me plenty of traction... (for street driving)
Car has ST Swaybars and HSD Coilovers with about a 1" drop (looks a bit more). This is a bit too low for my roads.. I tap with my front bumper.
(excuse the dust... no chance to detail the car ... lol.)