Operation Drive and Enjoy

gtsfirefighter

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#41
Time for a little update. Unfortunately not much, if any, of it is good news.

I'll start off with the hot start issues. After the car has been driven and sits for a about 15-20 minutes, it was almost impossible to start.
Things I replaced:
New factory Toyota FP VSV and FPR
New Cold Start Injector
New Cold Start Sensor Switch (upgraded part number from a 1989 TSB)
New Denso O2 Sensor.

NONE of those things typically associated with hot start issues changed anything. I won't call it a waste of money cause I like new parts.
So in short, it still has that problem.

Next up is that the turbo seals blew. I noticed it smoking pretty bad and its power was very poor. Also, I had an oil change done and two weeks (about 400 miles) later there was no oil on the stick. It was 3 quarts low. I knew there was a problem but was not sure at the time. When changing out the cold start injector, it was covered in oil :nono:. I pulled the accordian hose off the turbo and there was oil everywhere. Well, I had a spare turbo sitting in storage and decided to give it a try. I drained over a quart of oil from the lower intercooler pipe also, and cleaned as much of it out as I could. Slapped the other turbo on, crossed my fingers and took off to Houston. It was still using a about a quart of oil per tank of gas. About 600 miles later I get it home and it seems to be running fine. I drive to town to fill up the gas tank and when I get back home there's a fucking

ROD KNOCK

So, in short, I have parked the car, dropped the insurance on it and will just have to wait until I can get my spare engine out of storage and taken to a machine shop. It's going to get a stock rebuild as I'm keeping the power train stock. I've got an AMG Mercedes for performance pleasures now and since I love the Supra for just cruising, that's all I need.
In the meantime, I'll start accumulating little things like new coil packs, other sensors, new 440 injectors. I want the new engine to run so fucking smooth I can't feel it at traffic lights!

I've got all the bushings for the rear subframe and suspension that still needs to go on the car as well.

I'll update when I can and with pictures. I know how you folks like pictures.
 

Silver MK3

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#42
So sorry to hear about the rod knock, that really sucks. Hopefully all goes well with it in the future though. It's amazing how smooth a well running 7m can be. I pulled mine out of the garage yesterday to wash it and I let it run for a little while to burn off any oil from my leaking valve stem seals, plus I hadn't driven the car in 2-3 weeks so it was a little worse than usual. I ended up forgetting I had the car running while I was washing it until I was about halfway done...

Your build seems to be a lot like mine. Mostly stock restoration type of thing. How did replacing the O2 sensor go? Did you order the Denso one from Rock auto? Also, do you have to solder wires on the end of it or does it plug straight up once you pull the old one?
 

gtsfirefighter

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#43
I think I got it off Amazon. I've bought so much stuff lately I can't remember exactly haha. Yes it is a Denso sensor and its plug-n-play. Replacing it took 5 minutes. Unfortunately there was no difference it how it was running.


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Silver MK3

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#44
I think I got it off Amazon. I've bought so much stuff lately I can't remember exactly haha. Yes it is a Denso sensor and its plug-n-play. Replacing it took 5 minutes. Unfortunately there was no difference it how it was running.


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Alright. I didn't even think to look on amazon, that's where I got my Denso fuel pump. It's good to hear it is plug and play, I might pick one up if it's cheap enough and swap mine out just to have a fresh part there and know it isn't causing my hot start issues...
 

gtsfirefighter

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#45
Guess I'll update this.
Rod knock: well I don't think it was a rod because the knocking more or less went away. It has a faint knocking sound when it's cold but after its warmed up the engine is quiet. BUT: I do have a an extreme amount of blow by. With the dipstick out and the oil cap off and it running, it puffs with every miss in the idle. I'm thinking it's just one piston but nonetheless it's got to come out. I've got an extra 7M at a fellow supra enthusiast house that's he's been supposedly working on rebuilding. It'd be nice to hear from him though. He's not good at communicating. Not sure what I'm going to do about that situation.
I have been able to drive it although it's lacking some power and uses some oil. I've just been keeping it around town.

On suspension: Late last year I bought every bushing I could get for the rear suspension and also bought some RonnieK subframe bushings. My goal was to pull the subframe and replace every piece of rubber. Well.... I've finally just now gotten around to pulling the subframe. I had to have shoulder surgery in March so that put me out for 3 1/2 months and then it was summer and that with the mosquitoes made it miserable to be outside. I live out in the sticks so those blood sucking bastards are thick.
Now it's finally cooling off and my shoulder is healed up, yet my right arm is still weaker than me left, and the mosquito population has dropped considerably it's time to give the Supra some attention.


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gtsfirefighter

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#46
Regarding the bushings I bought for the rear suspension. I got the last three rear upper control arm bushings in the country...or even in existence I think. I need 4 but three was all I could get. I also bought an Energy Suspension bushing kit in case I screwed something up and needed more bushings. Now I'm going to have to decide which is the better bushing out of the original four and keep it.

I pulled the subframe and began disassembling it and yay me I've got four seized up camber bolts on the lower control arms. Not sure which direction of removal I'm going to go yet either. Damn....


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gtsfirefighter

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#47
My present goals and then I'll post up some pics.
Now I like a stock ride and am happy with stock performance with my Tanabe Medallion cat back so mechanically it's going to remain stock and therefore more reliable. I want to be able to jump in it and road trip at any time. It will receive a mhg though.
I had some really nice TT's on there but I've decided to restore some 91 5 spokes I have and put them on there. I'd rather have tired I can rotate. I have an 05 Mercedes CL55 AMG that has staggered wheels and 500 hp. It gets new rear tires with every oil change...seriously at 10k mile intervals. So my Supra is going to remain my cruiser just like it was made for.


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gtsfirefighter

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#48
Now some pics since we're all visually stimulated here haha.

I bought and installed a Super Monitor for it. Pre 89 turbos are all pre-wired for it and have the plug under the dash.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1445195536.892488.jpg

Here's a brief video of the excessive blow by coming out of the crankcase.
https://vimeo.com/142801636

Got the subframe out finally. It was actually very easy to remove.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1445195848.320101.jpg

And here's a little video of how bad some of the subframe bushings were.
https://vimeo.com/142801964



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GreenChevelleSS

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#50
well it sucks but itll be better once its back together. If you decide not to use the ronnie K bushings i might be interested in them. Im thinking about yanking my subframe and powdercoating it. 200K miles its probably time to freshen everything up back there. I know one of my upper rear bj is bad.
 

gtsfirefighter

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#51
well it sucks but itll be better once its back together. If you decide not to use the ronnie K bushings i might be interested in them. Im thinking about yanking my subframe and powdercoating it. 200K miles its probably time to freshen everything up back there. I know one of my upper rear bj is bad.
Oh I'll be using the subframe bushings for sure! ;)

I'd say it's time for some freshening up. I'm really looking forward to having mine back together.
 

MK3pizzadriver

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#52
Camber bolts still stuck? You have an impact gun? Electric ones are pretty decent these days.. don't need a compressor and all that jazz.
 

supraguy@aol

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#53
Good luck with the engine rebuild.
My 2nd car is similar to your build, in that I wanted to keep it as stock as possible, but a few aftermarket bits slipped into it regardless.
The oem sawblades were pretty ugly, and one was bent. since I had 18" XXR's sitting in the corner collecting dust, I put them on. Then I had
to put Tanabe springs on it, because it looked way too weird with 18's and giant fender gap. It sits very similar to the Eibach setup I used to have on the other car.
I also upgraded the stereo with a Pioneer Bluetooth unit, and the car has ARP's and a MHG. Lastly, the car came to me without the oem exhaust, but with a brand new HKS Super
Drager setup, so that went in too.

Keep the updates coming.
 

emiliorescigno

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#54
What did you end up going with for shocks and springs?

After my experience with the Tokicos in my red car (and my old blue car!), I've got $50 on those being the culprit. If you haven't purchased anything yet, my vote is OEM struts + the Eibachs you already have...or Konis if you're looking for aftermarket.

edit: Regarding the engine rebuild - it's a shame you're not up here in MN! There's a lot of Supra experience floating around, and a stock 7M sounds like a nice change of pace. :)
 

gtsfirefighter

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#55
Well camber bolts are still stuck. I tried using an air hammer and punch with no luck so I tried the ball joint press I have and that just bent the area of subframe that the control arm bolts into. I'll have to heat that up and bend it back after I cut the bolts which I guess is what I'm going to have to do. Damn damn damn!
Luckily a buddy has a sawzall. I'll stock up on some blades.

Emilio for now I'm going to put some KYB's back on it with some springs from a 1990 model. It'll be high but as long as I'm living out in the country I need it higher cause I drag going down my driveway bad. When I eventually get back to civilization I'll consider lowering it again. The Eibachs that came on the car have so much rust and deterioration on them I won't be using them again. Those springs that I bought off another forum member the first time thinking they were stock are probably Eibachs as well but are in pretty good shape. I'll be hanging on to those. They don't say Eibach on them anywhere though like the others.

Oh! I've got the KYB's up front already on those other lowering springs. It most definitely cured the bouncy front end getting rid of those Tokicos. Since then the rear was harsh feeling compared to the front. Can't wait to experience it with all new bushings, shocks and two new half shafts. I'm hoping for a much smoother rolling car.


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3p141592654

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#56

gtsfirefighter

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#57
I found 1/32" (might have been 0.045") thick cutoff wheel worked better than a sawzall.

After I removed my seized bushings I tried bashing them out on a concrete floor and was unsuccessful. Short of a 30 ton press, you will not get them out by force especially when they are on the car.

Here's a link to my experience.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...-comments-on-removing-seized-suspension-bolts
Thanks for the info! I've got every tool I need except for the sawzall and I'll borrow one from a buddy.
Almost every post or thread I read on this subject is in reference to the front lower control arms. I'm only dealing with the rear. Hopefully I won't damage the control arms.
Once I get everything else off the subframe I'll just flip it over and maybe that make things easier. I could not imagine doing this with it on the car still.


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GreenChevelleSS

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#58
since you got the subframe out might as well have the alignment tabs bent back to shape and welded solid. All mine are jacked from the alignment shops and I doubt they are getting it into alignment with them like that.
 

3p141592654

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#59
I've done the fronts and rear. The rears are easier as they have only one bolt per arm. Cut off the bolt head end between bushing and subframe, and then with the nut removed they can be wiggled out.
 

gtsfirefighter

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#60
Well I went out and got some cutting wheels and blades for the saw. I didn't feel like messing with the saw tonight but did successfully free one control arm from the subframe. Also I was able to cut through the nut side of the other bolts. I've got to do some manipulating of the remaining control arms to be able to get either the blade or wheel down to the bolt without destroying that part of the subframe or barrel for the bushing.
Also today I pressed in the last three oem Toyota upper control arm bushings known to exist in the world haha. I left one of the originals in since three were all that were left anywhere. I also cleaned off and repainted both upper arms to make 'em look nice. Should've painted then before I pressed in the bushings but oh well. I'll just clean off the overspray before I re-install the arms. I'll take some pics of them Thursday. I've got to work tomorrow so nothing will get done. [emoji20]


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gtsfirefighter

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#62
What an absolute ass whippin! If I ever have another supra this subframe going on it. I'd rather pull an engine then go through this again.
I finally got all the camber bolts cut off. It took five sawzall blades and two cutting wheels but I got it done. I also go all the bushing out of the control arms and strut rods also. Now that wasn't easy either. The press I have will only push the rubber and metal tube out. The outer jacket I had to cut with the sawzall and beat them out with a hammer and chisel. I boogered up a couple of the barrels but I'll clean em up the best I can. I also got the two bushings out of one of the spindles. How I'm going to get the new ones in will be challenging. I can't use my press to do those.
I took a pic of one of the bushings I pressed out. The bolt and the sleeve have almost melded into one piece.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1445576227.906032.jpg

Here are all the control arms. The upper ones are ready to go. I've now got to clean, repaint, and press in the new bushings for them.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1445576318.012409.jpg


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gtsfirefighter

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#63
I've still yet to remove the subframe bushings which it might a few days before I can get back to work on it.
I've got to get a good stripper wheel so I can clean it off and repaint it and also the diff could use some freshening up.


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3p141592654

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#65
I pressed out and in new bushings for the rears. I do remember that it took a lot of force and the old ones released with a loud bang, but it was all done with a 40 ton press.
 

gtsfirefighter

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#66
I pressed out and in new bushings for the rears. I do remember that it took a lot of force and the old ones released with a loud bang, but it was all done with a 40 ton press.
I've just got a 12 ton press. I sense more intense labor in my future haha.


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gtsfirefighter

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#71
Well other than control arm issue I made some progress today. I got all the bushings in all the other arms. Stripped them down and repainted them. Then I got the two bushings and parking brake pads replaced on one of the spindles.

Now you wonder why I didn't take the end links off. Well, I lost my only fitting Allen wrench in the mud outside the shop I'm guessing so just said fuck it.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1445834827.364441.jpg

I used a balljoint press to get the spherical and other bushing pressed it. It worked pretty good.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1445835073.716915.jpg

The finished spindle

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1445835171.208264.jpg



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GC89

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#73
+1

While we are on the topic, I am getting ready to do the same to the front sub-frame. What have you guys had good luck with in terms of paint? I haven't found anything I am really happy with on my past frame shoots.
 

GreenChevelleSS

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#76
I did my chevelle parts with POR-15 and its held up great for the past 10 years. But I would powdercoat it all. It wouldn't be much at all. maybe 100-150 for the subframe and all the parts. Im gonna have mine done, but I also will do everything that I can fit in my oven.

Heres some quad stuff ive done at home (well technically at my shop but its a home oven)


 

GC89

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#77
I plan to powder coat my arms and everything I can as well. I was planning on painting the subframe and the ps rack and knuckles since I can't bake them.

I have used por15 in the past and it did OK but was not the easiest to work with. Seems like opinions are 50/50 online of those that swear by it and those that hate it. I was almost thinking of trying a quart of the rustoleum commercial gloss black and adding some hardener this time.
 

gtsfirefighter

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#78
I'm usually more concerned about function when it comes to the bits under the car. I'll revisit the paint with better rust resistant materials but I'm not going to worry about powder coating anything. This subframe refurb has already cost me close to a grand if not a little more. I don't keep track of what I spend on this car because it will just make me sick. The Mercedes I keep track of and it alone can be nauseating!:aigo:
 

GreenChevelleSS

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#79
I plan to powder coat my arms and everything I can as well. I was planning on painting the subframe and the ps rack and knuckles since I can't bake them.

I have used por15 in the past and it did OK but was not the easiest to work with. Seems like opinions are 50/50 online of those that swear by it and those that hate it. I was almost thinking of trying a quart of the rustoleum commercial gloss black and adding some hardener this time.
I just finished one side of my rear knuckles. I will get a pic tomorrow but I dont understand why you said it cant be baked. (will need new bearings tho since you pretty much destroy them getting them out)
 

GC89

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#80
The bearings are the reason. Mine have zero play so I really don't want to tear them down just to coat. If I paint them with something decent now it should last till the bearings go and I can shoot them at that time.