New clutch slipping

Clip

The Magnificent Seven
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I was driving in some stop/go traffic this afternoon (first time on the new Action Stage 3 clutch, about 1400 miles since new) and after I got back to driving again, I noticed the clutch would start to slip around 3700 RPM after the turbo spooled and then catch up if I backed off slightly around 4500. No issues taking off but a little slip when aggressively downshifting/engine braking.

Today was also the first day I turned the boost up even further, hitting 15.6 psi. This clutch is rated for 375 ft-lb per Driftmotion. I don't think I'm anywhere near this at 15 psi on the stock turbo, so I'm wondering if the clutch just hasn't been broken in fully yet (500 miles in traffic per Action) and I'm overpowering it with the little extra boost since it's slipping right when the turbo starts loading up, or if I've somehow glazed the flywheel - doubtful with the ceramic disc.

I double-checked my pictures and I did install the clutch correctly - flywheel side to freshly resurfaced flywheel. new ARP bolts torqued to the pressure plate, surfaces cleaned with acetone prior to assembly.
 

Clip

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On further inspection, looks like a leaking rear main seal. I'm sure that's not helping anything. Also readjusted clutch free play and it disengages a bit later in the pedal travel now. Don't think it was preloaded at all, but it still shifts fine and held on a quick test drive.

I read a post by Aaron that said the clutch fork should be loose (no pressure from the slave at all?) and suggested when installing an aftermarket pressure plate to confirm/readjust the slave cylinder to make sure. However, since the manual just gave instructions on clutch pedal freeplay I stuck with that.
 
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SupraTrbo89

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Just curious as I'll be doing a tranny/ clutch swap at some point in the future ---- Is the rear main seal easily accessible with the clutch/ flywheel removed? If so, I'd replace the rear main seal while I was at it.
 

Clip

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Yeah that would be the time. Don't forget to put a thin layer of FIPG around the bore of the seal holder to help stop that potential leak path, and don't be dumb like I did and see an imperceptible groove in the crankshaft seal surface and ignore sleeving the darn thing. Even though I couldn't feel any difference at all between good metal and the groove (it was basically just a shiny line worn in the surface) I should've put a sleeve on it, or taken the seal holder/plate/retainer and gotten a little machined off the back to make the seal hit a new surface on the crankshaft. IJ describes this in another post on here.
 

Piratetip

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Dang... That's no fun a leak in that area.
 
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Clip

The Magnificent Seven
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I've got that and a leak from the CPS area - I used a fresh o-ring on the CPS but wasn't aware of an internal o-ring as well, so that'll be pulled when I pull valve covers to retorque the head. Cursing the rear main seal though, and my freshly Loctite 272'd flywheel bolts. Impact gun will get another workout, followed by lots of thread cleaning.

In other news, 15 lbs of boost is pretty fun.
 

Piratetip

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It's a positive lip seal inside the CPS, not an o-ring.
If you replace that you might as well do a full rebuild on the CPS since it has to be completely disassembled.
Including drilling out the pin to remove the gear and shaft.
Then new pin and re-peened.
 

Clip

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Oh boy. I'll do a little more digging when i pull all the ancillaries off to get to the head studs.