my summer project!

Facime

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I thought a few members here might appreciate this one so I thought I might give a little teaser of the summer project.







sorry, way to much to do to before I can even give a full body shot.

(Bonus to anyone who can correctly identify the year! ;) )
 

Facime

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I always wanted one of my birth year:
Ive always wanted a first year 71 "flatlight", but as those are just so rare and impossible to find for cheap, I had to go with this one.

Oh Hell Yeah, this will be one bad ass project!!!!!!!!!!!!
Its going to get lots of TLC first. I just need it to be safe and streetable for now. Eventually it will get a modern powerplant. Im leaning towards a turbo 4 like the 3SGTE, but It will probably come down to what I can find for the best price when it comes time.

Ive regretted selling my last one ever since. When this one popped up locally for a good price I couldnt pass it up.
 

Facime

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Project is progressing nicely. I still have under a grand into it at this point but that will change once I start with the motor swap, ;)


more teasers:




 

Mk3runner

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I remember this one that I think was a 79 black with mags on it. Did they all come with 22rs? Either way.. I love the leather the 8 track and the body.. I wouldn't mind a bpu daily driver..
 

Facime

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The 22R came later (3rd gen). 1st gens were 8RC 18RC then 20R in the US. Other countries got a variety as well, including the 18RG which was a DOHC hemi head yamaha motor that put out close to 140 in stock trim.

My 75 is the first year of the long running R series in a Celica. The appeal for me is the availability of suspension parts crossed over from the AE86, and an under 2500lb curb weight. Not to mention, I think the body is dead sexy!


Edit: oh also, the interiors are vinyl not leather, and I just learned that the ST versions actually had cloth seats that Ive never seen in real life. Mine will probably be a mix of cloth (mircosuede) and vinyl when Im done with it.
 

Facime

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What are your plans??
To be honest it really depends on how much work I can come up with this summer, but initially my plans are pretty realistic. Im almost done with the suspension and brakes already. I essentially dropped the entire undercarriage out from under it, cleaned and painted the hard parts and replaced all the soft parts including springs, bushings, struts, brakes hoses, rebuilt calipers, rotors, etc.

The motor is solid as it sits as the 20R is pretty much bulletproof in stock or mildly modded form. I have a Weber carb, Edelbrock manifold, Mild cam and header on it, and after rebuilding and properly jetting the carb it runs fantastic now. I do plan to pull the drivetrain however pretty soon to clean, paint and polish under the hood.

After that I will get into the interior and redo the seats with a mix of original vinyl and suede. Im going to gut it all first and remove the old sound deadener and replace it with dynamat. The seats will be mk2 supra seats, but otherwise Im going to try to retain the factory look but with modern materials. I plan to do some custom work on the dash and gauges and console to accomidate a modern head unit. Im going to color convert to red LED lighting inside as well.

Body wise Im going with earlier version "smiley" bumper replicas in fiberglass and at that time Im going FG hood, rear deck lid, chin spoiler and tail spoiler.


After that, depending on my interest and budget a motor swap to a modern I4 might take place. I am considering a variety of drivetrains including the SR20, 3SGTE, 4AGZE or even an F20C. Fall back plans could be as mild as a hybrid 22/20R with dual side drafts or maybe a 22RTE. But with my car weighing in at 2400lbs or so, wet, I wont need that much power to have alot of fun! My goal is a mild "resto-mod" that is safe and fun to drive while not breaking my bank to do it.
 

Facime

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OK...So, I have completed phase 1 of the project and Im pleased with how it turned out. This Time I have a few pics to help tell the story.


Phase 1 was to be the "streetworthy" phase. When I got the car the motor ran like dogshit. It had a huge off idle stumble and surged and bucked at cruise. I checked and repaired as neccessary the standard stuff like points, plugs, cap, timing, vac leaks, etc. but the problem was still there, and in fact I might have made it a little worse. One Redline rebuild and jet kit for the weber later, the motor runs fantastic.

That put me onto the real meat of pahse 1 which was the steering, suspension and brakes. Driving the car to Corvallis from Springfield after I bought it was what I refer to as Mr Toad's Wild Ride. The steering was loose with as much as 1/4 turn of freeplay in the box and the brakes made all kinds of funny sounds and would jerk you to the shoulder with a hard enough stab of the pedal.

Basically I ripped everything out and assessed from there and decided with the exception of most of the steering hard parts I would just replace everything. Here is what it looked like part of the way through deconstruction:



Strut rods and sway bar also came out as did the remainder of the steering gear for cleaning and painting.

Control arms before:


ready for paint:


painted and ready for new bushings: (I kept the ball joints as there was nothing wrong with them and I simply re-greased them)


If there is one thing I am nervous about its another (obviously amature) mechanics brake work. The pads looked to be at 75% or so and the rear shoes were 90% or more but I found one of the springs in the back in the wrong place and it was rubbing on the axle shaft and the front rotors looked like they had been cooked in a grease fire so I just replaced it all. The wheel bearings were the only thing salvageable so I cleaned and repacked those and put in new seals.

The calipers were cleaned, and rebuilt and I took the opportunity to smooth the castings a little:



I also replaced the strut rods and bushings which were improperly installed with severely frozen nuts. Sway bar bushings and end links are also new, as are all the soft hydraulic hoses. New wheel cylinders, shoes and drums were installed out back. I used stock parts in most cases as this is intended to be a daily driven street car with more "resto" than "mod". The only real "mod" parts are the springs and the RCA's

I admit I didnt really document with that many pictures the process along the way, but here is the end result:





Ride height on the King Springs (I have no idea on spring rates, but let me say, with just KYB GR2's in the tubes, this thing is rock hard):




Side note: Jody the shop dog complained alot about the working conditions until I fired up the woodstove. I caught her snoring away a couple times after that.



NEXT: Phase 2 - Engine bay: Pull the motor, clean/polish/paint as needed. Clean up several ugly wiring issues. Another "more resto than mod" phase.
 

Mk3runner

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a f series motor would interesting in a car that size. But I'd keep it yota. Just for WTFs something besides the 20r would be nice.
 

Facime

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broke a valve spring coming back from centrailia and bent the valve. Head is being rebuilt now. project is nearing the end of what i can afford to do with it. Gonna have to sell it and move on.
 

Facime

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what it looks like now:





pics of the carnage:









Im going to do a little match porting while I have it all apart and some cleaning and polishing under the hood.
 

Facime

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lol, yes, yes it does.



Machine shop called, head is warped on the cam side. They said they could straighten it, then its getting a full valve job, surface, match port, and all new springs (replace as a set is a general rule). I could not afford new oversized valves or anything too radical on it. Wouldnt really be much point for such a low HP application anyway. Head should be good for another 100k miles though.
 

Facime

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Why I lost compression this week:





Why this happened I really dont know, but Im rebuilding...
 

Facime

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LOL, yeah, but the trick is getting all the pieces back in the right order!


The good news was that the crank and main bearings look pristine! Also despite all the pieces floating around in there nothing ended up anywhere else that it shouldnt be. The cylinder walls looked fine too. There is no carbon build up on anything. I wasnt burning oil before I lost compression, but I did notice a fair amount of oil out the breather...



There is no carbon build up on anything. I wasnt burning oil before I lost compression, but I did notice a fair amount of oil out the breather...
I can only guess the rings werent gapped right? I dont know, Ian, any other ideas?
 

Facime

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all the little pieces of piston ring are numbered? how fortuitious of toyota to know just how and where they would break! ;)


top rings, the others are ok (or at least in one piece)
 

Facime

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yes, #2 ring was pretty easy to break. Gotta admit my experience in the bottom end of a motor is limited. Care to clue me in on some explanations here? I would sure love to see that his doesnt happen again.
 

IJ.

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OK was just checking that #1 and #2 hadn't been mixed up ;)

#2 is an iron ring so should break easily.

How do the ring lands look?

Was there any signs of detonation driving?
 

Facime

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oic.

I have pretty much babied this motor since day one. The carb is jetted a tad on the rich side just in case and the plug readings have confirmed that. No evidence of detonation and its pretty rare that I even go WOT or push close to redline with it. The head was just rebuilt after I broke a valve spring at freeway cruise speed with no warning. The head checked out ok otherwise and we did a valve job.

The only other thing that I think is just a coincidence is I did the 500 mile head retorque the night before I really noticed something wrong and upon diagnostics found near complete compression loss in #2. compression readings that day were 75, 0, 90, 90, and obviously LOTS better with a couple teaspoons of oil. I had driven it 25 miles to town just the day before and it seemed "ok" then.

In hindsight though, It has been a little hard to start hot for a while, and like I said noticed more oil out the breather than I thought normal.


edit: sorry, ring lands look ok, these pistons look to be pretty fresh, no polishing or scoring on the skirts. Rings seem to fit them normally
 

Facime

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Ok well it turns out the best guess was the top ring groove was too loose causing ring chatter and making them shatter. At least thats our theory. Anyway, after a start and stop and re-start on the rebuild, I completed the rebuild today and took her for her break in run.


Jody the shop dog approves of my work!




By the end of yesterday I had the motor in the car and all hooked up but when I went to start it, it just cranked and didnt even sound like it wanted to fire. I was tired and hungry and decided I should sleep on it.

how it looked at the end of yesterday:


This morning after a late start looking at wiring diagrams since I was fairly sure it was a spark issue, I tested spark right off and found I had it...hmmm. Some basic diagnostics later I discovered that even though this time around I didnt even touch the head other than clean the mating surface, assuming the previous valve lash adjustment was good enough for a first start was a bad idea. I wasnt getting complete valve closure. Set the lash and it fired right up! WOOT!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUjGMm8JNwg

going through basic break in now after a few minor tweaks. It runs good and Im happy with it. Just a mostly stock 20R but Im proud of the work Ive put into it.
 

gtsfirefighter

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Wow!! Why am I just now finding this?? I love early Celicas. Actally I love all Celicas up to 1985, after that, blah!

Super cool car and awesome work, as usual. I hate that you want to sell it though.
 

Facime

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I never intended to keep it. It was intended to be a for fun and profit project from the start, but things havent really worked out. I had hoped to not have to put a penny into the motor and that ended up being the thing Ive put the most into. So now its at least mechanically nice but still looks like crap.

At this point I couldnt sell it and make money on it so I plan to put a fairly high pricetag on it and keep working on it. If someone offers enough money I'll sell it but I dont think I will get top dollar for it until the body/paint work is complete.


Yesterday I picked up a bigger carb for it. I was at the high end of demand for the 32/36 so I opted for a more aggressive 38. The 32/36 is a progressive and the 38 is syncronous so I can say goodbye to any gas mileage probably, but it should be a kick in the pants to drive.

Ive got 200 miles on the motor and this weekend I ran into an electrical problem that left me on the side of the road at 2AM, but was an easy fix in the light of the next morning. I think I can almost say now that I trust it will not leave me stranded again anytime soon.
 

Facime

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on a related note I have another 2xR motor in the shop right now, a 93 22RE that Im replacing due to the following failure:

between #1 and #2 cylinders


This was bad but the motor still had cold compression in 1 and 2. As I worked my way back I found with the plugs removed from all cylinders that 3 and 4 had ZERO compression. So I knew they were cross channeling. I had no idea it was going to be this bad when I took it apart...!



obviously complete failure of the gasket right? ohh, it gets worse!




these two pics do a decent job of illustrating the depth of the failure:




PLEASE NOTE: #3 combustion chamber is essentially powder coated in aluminum from the scouring effect.


I LOVE port-mortems on failures like this. I try to imagine the forces and processes that lead to the failure and it blows my mind when shit like this still actually runs and drives into the shop.