My long-running Supra build thread
- Thread starter debrucer
- Start date
Thank you both @Z06gette & @wraymond . It's coming along slowly but surely. I have been spending 5 hour stints, four or five times a week for a while now, and hope to continue. Today I sorted out about four critical things on the engine... I'm using the Chevy block off plate for the j-pipe bypass, and I have an AFPR "kit" (but it wasn't from drift motion) and haven't completely figured out the setup. I want the unit to be on the engine, not mounted to the shock tower... and I'm not there yet.
A little progress on the valve lash adjustment in that I've got shims coming (November 27th to December 3rd). Not exactly quick enough
A couple of locals have offered to contribute their surplus shims, so I'm putting together a tray that will be passed around in San Diego. I think there are 132 members in the local group... and at least that many Supras.
I also finished grinding the inside of my lower timing cover where the 12-tooth trigger wheel touches the case. I've been holding off on drilling the cover for the Hall Effect Sensor... I have four versions of 12mm sensors, and they have two different threads. I can make them work on the bench without a magnet, but I haven't really proved they will or won't work on the actual trigger wheel. Without a magnet is sort of key here.
A friend came by today with his JZ powered Z and I've got to say it looked and sounded so damn good! He assured me his was in the same shape as mine not too long ago. There's definitely hope. I try not to skip steps on otherwise coverup an unfinished job. It's obvious that my fuel rail is not done, so the missing copper washers there aren't a problem. The missing copper washers on the fuel filter are another issue. They're up above the differential, and a real pain to get access. At least this time I have Torin Big Red jack stands with locking pins... no longer Harbor Freight death traps. I've spent way too much time under cars on HF stands... NEVER AGAIN, and I should say I'm a bit paranoid of others. The quarters are too tight to have a buddy help... only because of Covid.
I hope to have the engine in the car this year. Not running, but in...
It's such a treat to be doing things like installing hoses, vacuum lines, turbo in and out, the water cooling. There's still a ton of work to do, but she's getting there. I have not decided on whether to install the wiring harness on the engine before or after installation in the car. I am leaning toward on engine before installation. I am definitely not going to run it on the stands as I had hoped.
Okay, I went into verbose mode. Can hardly wait for more to report Exciting stuff!
`
A little progress on the valve lash adjustment in that I've got shims coming (November 27th to December 3rd). Not exactly quick enough
A couple of locals have offered to contribute their surplus shims, so I'm putting together a tray that will be passed around in San Diego. I think there are 132 members in the local group... and at least that many Supras.
I also finished grinding the inside of my lower timing cover where the 12-tooth trigger wheel touches the case. I've been holding off on drilling the cover for the Hall Effect Sensor... I have four versions of 12mm sensors, and they have two different threads. I can make them work on the bench without a magnet, but I haven't really proved they will or won't work on the actual trigger wheel. Without a magnet is sort of key here.
A friend came by today with his JZ powered Z and I've got to say it looked and sounded so damn good! He assured me his was in the same shape as mine not too long ago. There's definitely hope. I try not to skip steps on otherwise coverup an unfinished job. It's obvious that my fuel rail is not done, so the missing copper washers there aren't a problem. The missing copper washers on the fuel filter are another issue. They're up above the differential, and a real pain to get access. At least this time I have Torin Big Red jack stands with locking pins... no longer Harbor Freight death traps. I've spent way too much time under cars on HF stands... NEVER AGAIN, and I should say I'm a bit paranoid of others. The quarters are too tight to have a buddy help... only because of Covid.
I hope to have the engine in the car this year. Not running, but in...
It's such a treat to be doing things like installing hoses, vacuum lines, turbo in and out, the water cooling. There's still a ton of work to do, but she's getting there. I have not decided on whether to install the wiring harness on the engine before or after installation in the car. I am leaning toward on engine before installation. I am definitely not going to run it on the stands as I had hoped.
Okay, I went into verbose mode. Can hardly wait for more to report
Exciting stuff!`
6 PM PST Thanksgiving Day. Happy Thanksgiving... Done editing... and off for some more Turkey. Good night.
The car in the first three pictures belongs to Tim Allen in Tulsa Oklahoma. He's posted on Facebook and helped me all day with understanding and ordering the necessary parts. The job is an oil filter relocation along with an oil cooler upgrade and relocation. His car was my inspiration. As much as I don't need further delay, this has become "necessary" because having that bumper block the intercooler the way it does plays with my mind.
So unless removing the bumper skin makes a more acceptable intercooler installation possible, the bumper goes. I'm not going to leave it bumper-less and will be fabricating a tubular replacement. Face it, a crash that uses it is the finish for an old man
Here's his car. I believe we have the same intercooler, minimally speaking, pipes exit to the same side:
.
Here's where he's mounted the oil filter housing and between that and the oil filter, the sandwich plate with thermostat, the necessary ports for the route to the oil cooler.
I have held off on trying to fit the hard pipes. This will be helpful to get started from the intercooler in, vs. completely waiting for the engine to be in. That is planned, in, not running, this year.
The oil cooler is much larger, 25 rows, 11.25" x 7.5" x 2", IIRC
I resized and uploaded pics of all the ordered components, but it really serves no purpose to display them. If you browse these pictures, the others are there if you care to look. They're just snip-its, not edited or complete spec. But, they are there.
Everything is ordered and will start arriving on December 3rd. This dictates a change to the driving light / fog light possibilities as the driver's side opening is a functional air duct to the oil cooler. It also dictates changes in my already modified undercover, since that's where you go to change the oil filter. Guess if I do the undercover correctly, it will be removable.
Now, if I just came across the right bumper skin with a wide-open mouth directly to the intercooler.
Things on the engine are coming along. I keep wanting to start the wiring harness attachment to the engine, but it seems best to get hoses and fittings done first.
Damn I hope the engine is solid! Every mistake I've made, I've made photos of the problem and the fix. I can track all the bogus little things I've done. Hopefully, I will never have to look for them, that the fixes were secure, and nobody need to know the difference. But I can track things, if I need to do so.
Fortunately, today I found one of those things I skipped, done because the water pump torque wasn't done. The waterpipe to the rear of the engine had no nuts and washers... it was just slipped on, tightened, torqued everywhere else. Stupid, but caught. The other thing that will bite me if I forget, the washers on the fuel filter. There are none. The filter is attached, but slightly cock-eyed, and the fitting therefore is a bear to work with. This is a frequent area where lines get kinked and then must be replaced. I don't want to take the gas tank off again either
Happy Thanksgiving everyone. Stay safe and well.
The car in the first three pictures belongs to Tim Allen in Tulsa Oklahoma. He's posted on Facebook and helped me all day with understanding and ordering the necessary parts. The job is an oil filter relocation along with an oil cooler upgrade and relocation. His car was my inspiration. As much as I don't need further delay, this has become "necessary" because having that bumper block the intercooler the way it does plays with my mind.
So unless removing the bumper skin makes a more acceptable intercooler installation possible, the bumper goes. I'm not going to leave it bumper-less and will be fabricating a tubular replacement. Face it, a crash that uses it is the finish for an old man
Here's his car. I believe we have the same intercooler, minimally speaking, pipes exit to the same side:
.
Here's where he's mounted the oil filter housing and between that and the oil filter, the sandwich plate with thermostat, the necessary ports for the route to the oil cooler.
I have held off on trying to fit the hard pipes. This will be helpful to get started from the intercooler in, vs. completely waiting for the engine to be in. That is planned, in, not running, this year.
The oil cooler is much larger, 25 rows, 11.25" x 7.5" x 2", IIRC
I resized and uploaded pics of all the ordered components, but it really serves no purpose to display them. If you browse these pictures, the others are there if you care to look. They're just snip-its, not edited or complete spec. But, they are there.
Everything is ordered and will start arriving on December 3rd. This dictates a change to the driving light / fog light possibilities as the driver's side opening is a functional air duct to the oil cooler. It also dictates changes in my already modified undercover, since that's where you go to change the oil filter. Guess if I do the undercover correctly, it will be removable.
Now, if I just came across the right bumper skin with a wide-open mouth directly to the intercooler.
Things on the engine are coming along. I keep wanting to start the wiring harness attachment to the engine, but it seems best to get hoses and fittings done first.
Damn I hope the engine is solid! Every mistake I've made, I've made photos of the problem and the fix. I can track all the bogus little things I've done. Hopefully, I will never have to look for them, that the fixes were secure, and nobody need to know the difference. But I can track things, if I need to do so.
Fortunately, today I found one of those things I skipped, done because the water pump torque wasn't done. The waterpipe to the rear of the engine had no nuts and washers... it was just slipped on, tightened, torqued everywhere else. Stupid, but caught. The other thing that will bite me if I forget, the washers on the fuel filter. There are none. The filter is attached, but slightly cock-eyed, and the fitting therefore is a bear to work with. This is a frequent area where lines get kinked and then must be replaced. I don't want to take the gas tank off again either
Happy Thanksgiving everyone. Stay safe and well.
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Nice car
Those wheels are perfect! I had a chance to learn over a JZ recently... can't say I know 1jz or 2, but, the point was, it was tight! That's really good advice. I'm ashamed any other way ever entered my mind. I haven't really accomplished much at the garage recently, a vacuum line here, a hose there... The bungs came out well on my front pipe. 24" and 36" behind the turbo. Using 14Point7 brand with 4.9 sensor which comes with instructions that seemed to conflict with the specs of the sensor. The component specs have a very narrow heat range they need to operate within. Since I haven't figured out how to tell the temperature in the center of my exhaust, IIRC, I used 24" from the 4.2 spec, and 36" from the 4.9 spec. It's been a long time coming, guess I should show my front pipe now
Plenty of time spent thinking, reading the shop manual and parts lists, looking for places that need hoses... there are a lot of hoses. I have a big box of all the original hoses, and all the purchased, so call, replacement hoses, and a bin full of original hose clamps to prove the old hoses were really from this car. I'm overwhelmed when I try to think about finding them all
Still not totally sure about a couple of holes in the exhaust side of the block. Only 1/4 of the way on the plumbing of the turbo.I think it turned out okay. A tab bit long and might have benefitted from different AN- connectors, but for what it is, I'm happy. I notice from the picture that I've twisted the hose, no doubt, while putting the AN- fittings on. I've got ten +/- more to do on the oil filter relocation and all job... and that hose has a cloth backing, not steel. I'll get better
Always hopeful, more to come. It's really coming together, feeling like it might actually get done.
Sitting so long, things get questionable... like, for instance, the oil pump was shimmed and packed with grease... wonder exactly how long that grease stays... greasy
Test fit the radiator and fans today for the first time. The radiator looks wimpy and it's got the wrong nipples so it will require work to make sure. Bought it from the same guy I got the hoses from... in 2006. Can't take it back. May be an excuse for a new, wide, pretty model
Here's how the bottom lines up:
Of course, this comes out and the hood comes off to put the engine in... Nice to know now that this ain't right
My baby awaits parts from DriftMotion...
Here's how the bottom lines up:
Of course, this comes out and the hood comes off to put the engine in... Nice to know now that this ain't right
My baby awaits parts from DriftMotion...
Plasma cutting is fun
Here's my front bumper, cut to give access to intercooler.
Going to the metal store to get a 20x5" piece to weld back into the bumper... making it a triangle where the IC needs air flow.
The intercooler is going 2" to the right. Relocated oil filter will be to the left, and 7.5" z 12.25" x 2" oil cooler to the right. The fittings and hoses have already come. Waiting for the DriftMotion parts and the oil cooler.
I'm ready.
Here's my front bumper, cut to give access to intercooler.
Going to the metal store to get a 20x5" piece to weld back into the bumper... making it a triangle where the IC needs air flow.
The intercooler is going 2" to the right. Relocated oil filter will be to the left, and 7.5" z 12.25" x 2" oil cooler to the right. The fittings and hoses have already come. Waiting for the DriftMotion parts and the oil cooler.
I'm ready.
After opening up the bumper I found three brackets tack welded inside. The weren’t structural, perhaps crush resistance.
I added gussets and two square end caps and welded. The 5” x 20” 3/16 steel plate still needs to be fit and welded. Tomorrow.
There is a picture of the unfinished bumper in earlier post showing 100% air access to the IC. That was this goal.
I added gussets and two square end caps and welded. The 5” x 20” 3/16 steel plate still needs to be fit and welded. Tomorrow.
There is a picture of the unfinished bumper in earlier post showing 100% air access to the IC. That was this goal.
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Bright and shinny pieces from DriftMotion arrived today, as well as the helicoil to fix the threads of one of the cam cap bolt holes
Tomorrow is bi-weekly grocery shopping, so I won’t get to the garage tomorrow
These pieces completes the oil filter relocation and upgraded oil cooler.
The cutout on the front bumper opens up clean access to all of the intercooler.
It all clears the bumper. Now to mount the new pieces and start making lines.
The pieces all seem right so my next step is to start mounting stuff, determine angles for 8 AN-10 fittings, cut hoses and mount fittings.
it’s going to be tricky pre-building the two hoses from the block to the remote. Engine not in car makes it very hard to measure.
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if stock you will be fine. on aftermarket turbo exhaust manifold is where clearance is an issue.
Are you sandwiching a t-stat between block and filter adapter?
No. The t-stat is on the remote filter and branches off to the oil cooler.
copying this setup... Tim Allen in Tulsa OK.
This is not Tim Allen like on the TV show home improvement right?
Also you might want to shorten your Turbo drain hose just a hair so it is straight down.
That slight hump may cause you some drainage issues.
My old setup looked very very similar to that, and I blew some oil out the exhaust side of my turbo way back.
Since I shortened it I've had no issues.
Also you might want to shorten your Turbo drain hose just a hair so it is straight down.
That slight hump may cause you some drainage issues.
My old setup looked very very similar to that, and I blew some oil out the exhaust side of my turbo way back.
Since I shortened it I've had no issues.
He's a welder, a tool man of sorts
but not "the" tool man. I worried, briefly, about that kink, and I wasn't thrilled with the outcome. I've got spare AN- fittings now, so, yeah, I should do that and maybe change the angle a bit. Thanks. I needed to hear that.
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@Piratetip shortened it... twice... total 1" off.
Do you think this is short enough? Well, straight enough?
Do you think this is short enough? Well, straight enough?
Yeah, they're all pretty long. the 45 degree is even worse. I was told that I will have to use 90 degrees on the lines there, in order to clear the turbo and the p/steering pump. That and my AC compressor are still in the car. The compressor charged with R-134 refrigerant... for over ten years. I'm going to pull the p/s pump off the car and attach to the engine. Will debate on the AC. It got a new receiver-drier and something else at the time... and AC is the least of my worries
Par for the course, as things go together, the reality of making things fit as intended or as now required, is playing games with my head.
Semi-completed months ago, a bracket that installs with clevis pins, with the bumper and engine undercover attached, or not, as in this picture. Semi-complete because the two towers with three adjustment points to keep the tow bar level with the towing vehicle, need me to weld a cap on them to keep them spread as-built,
The next picture is a close-up of the pins used to connect the bracket. The standard tow hooks attach to the left and right frame rails and were removed to fill the existing hosts and drill new ones that were in the right position. Blocks were added to double-check for limited movement, and the tow hooks were reattached. In theory, the two holes restrict the travel, but, if one pin dropped out, the block will keep the whole thing from ripping the front bumper off.
The last photo shows the relocated filter on the passenger frame rail exactly where planned. It bolts up beautifully, and the bumper fits back on the car (i.e., the new item on the frame rail does not interfere with the bumper fitment), but its' existence destroys the hard-pipe path
Not that I've figured out my hard-pips. I'm quite sure I have multiple sets, as some are coated aluminum, like the HKS exhaust front pipe, and others are black powder coat. I also have all the original hoses, pipes, etc., and what I could determine at the time, ten years ago, what replacements I could find. Nothing seems to fit yet.
I am enjoying welding, and I finally used my plasma cutter attachment which was a ball. Welding material to like material is getting much easier, but when I'm welding thick to thin, or the other way around, I tend to burn the shit out of things. It took balls to weld that HKS front pipe, and it came out okay, but, I'm not excited about showing off my TIG skills on the hard-pipes. I'd so much rather something just fit.
I have googled and crawled around my car looking, but I have failed so far to find another decent filter location. The biggest problem with looking is that I'm not familiar with how it's all going to fit... which may be different than how it's supposed to fit.
Ideas? Suggestions?
Semi-completed months ago, a bracket that installs with clevis pins, with the bumper and engine undercover attached, or not, as in this picture. Semi-complete because the two towers with three adjustment points to keep the tow bar level with the towing vehicle, need me to weld a cap on them to keep them spread as-built,
The next picture is a close-up of the pins used to connect the bracket. The standard tow hooks attach to the left and right frame rails and were removed to fill the existing hosts and drill new ones that were in the right position. Blocks were added to double-check for limited movement, and the tow hooks were reattached. In theory, the two holes restrict the travel, but, if one pin dropped out, the block will keep the whole thing from ripping the front bumper off.
The last photo shows the relocated filter on the passenger frame rail exactly where planned. It bolts up beautifully, and the bumper fits back on the car (i.e., the new item on the frame rail does not interfere with the bumper fitment), but its' existence destroys the hard-pipe path
Not that I've figured out my hard-pips. I'm quite sure I have multiple sets, as some are coated aluminum, like the HKS exhaust front pipe, and others are black powder coat. I also have all the original hoses, pipes, etc., and what I could determine at the time, ten years ago, what replacements I could find. Nothing seems to fit yet.
I am enjoying welding, and I finally used my plasma cutter attachment which was a ball. Welding material to like material is getting much easier, but when I'm welding thick to thin, or the other way around, I tend to burn the shit out of things. It took balls to weld that HKS front pipe, and it came out okay, but, I'm not excited about showing off my TIG skills on the hard-pipes. I'd so much rather something just fit.
I have googled and crawled around my car looking, but I have failed so far to find another decent filter location. The biggest problem with looking is that I'm not familiar with how it's all going to fit... which may be different than how it's supposed to fit.
Ideas? Suggestions?
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Several years ago, I asked this forum what to do with the space created by a battery relocation. There weren't a whole lot of good answers, FFIM, for sure, but, more conversation about relocating the battery, why? and those dangers
Today I found the use!
I am going to remove the extra sheet metal that made the space flat, and cut a hole in the remaining piece so that my oil filter can be mounted on the frame rail in this position. The hoses will be accessible under the hood, although I'm not yet sure of the routing. The filter itself will be under the inner wheel liner on the driver's side, much like the windshield washer bottle in located on the passenger's side. The oil cooler will be mounted as originally intended, behind the opening left by not installing the fog/driving light.
I hooked up my AC gauges to the high and low ports and got no reading... not that I expected it to be right without the engine running, but, I expected something. Nothing. I fooled with it a few minutes and there was no evacuation of refrigerant. Put a 12mm on the impact driver and spun off the connectors. There was a slight "puff" as the first one disconnected. No massive venting to the air.
Now both PS pump and AC compressor will be mounted on the engine when it goes back in the car. I've been saying "this year", but that's not going to happen. I see youtube videos of three or four people doing it... Damn Covid!
Hope you are all well. I am.
Today I found the use!
I am going to remove the extra sheet metal that made the space flat, and cut a hole in the remaining piece so that my oil filter can be mounted on the frame rail in this position. The hoses will be accessible under the hood, although I'm not yet sure of the routing. The filter itself will be under the inner wheel liner on the driver's side, much like the windshield washer bottle in located on the passenger's side. The oil cooler will be mounted as originally intended, behind the opening left by not installing the fog/driving light.
I hooked up my AC gauges to the high and low ports and got no reading... not that I expected it to be right without the engine running, but, I expected something. Nothing. I fooled with it a few minutes and there was no evacuation of refrigerant. Put a 12mm on the impact driver and spun off the connectors. There was a slight "puff" as the first one disconnected. No massive venting to the air.
Now both PS pump and AC compressor will be mounted on the engine when it goes back in the car. I've been saying "this year", but that's not going to happen. I see youtube videos of three or four people doing it... Damn Covid!
Hope you are all well. I am.
My thoughts on mounting. I started out with it centered, but there was no way the hard-pipes would ever fit. Moved it 2” to the right and there’s a chance. The bottom edge is even with the radiator support. It appears to me that it needs to be an inch lower for a smooth fit of the pipes. The friend’s car that I was copying has it mounted two inches lower. I’m suggesting one inch. I don’t think he reinstalled his bumper, just attached the bumper skin with tie-wraps. I want my bumper to be a real bumper.
When I first installed it, I did so with the bumper on the car. It’s so much easier with it off.
When I first installed it, I did so with the bumper on the car. It’s so much easier with it off.
Cutting holes in my car this morning, the first in the passenger floor to be covered with a patch panel.
The second hole behind the driver’s side headlight for the oil filter to be relocated. My Harbor Freight "bi-metal" hole saw crapped out after one hole, but this is the start. I was tempted to do this job with the plasma cutter... because it's neat and I've only used it once before... bit of every job requires a hammer when a hammer is what you've got I haven't been in HF for almost a year... since the jack stand fiasco... guess it's time to go back.
The first hard pipe fits reasonably well, but I will trim a bit of the metal off the frame rail to make it clear better.
The second section of hard pipe isn't quite in line yet.... it's close.
The second hole behind the driver’s side headlight for the oil filter to be relocated. My Harbor Freight "bi-metal" hole saw crapped out after one hole, but this is the start. I was tempted to do this job with the plasma cutter... because it's neat and I've only used it once before... bit of every job requires a hammer when a hammer is what you've got
I haven't been in HF for almost a year... since the jack stand fiasco... guess it's time to go back.
The first hard pipe fits reasonably well, but I will trim a bit of the metal off the frame rail to make it clear better.
The second section of hard pipe isn't quite in line yet.... it's close.
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I can definitely see that dropping the IC another inch is the solution. There is 1/2" that I could shave off the bottom of the passenger side frame rail, but it really needs an inch. I think I can lower the top an inch with three spacers, without doing anything to the bottom. I dislike that the IC is lower than the radiator support cross-member piece, but at least it's not the lowest thing under the car.
I have dual-electric fans, and therefore, no fan on the water pump. I still believe I'm keeping the AC, but I haven't figured out exactly what I need to save and reinstall in that department. There are two additional fans from the original setup. I believe that one goes in front of the radiation, in there with the horns and hood mechanism, the other behind the radiator in a cage of its' own. That definitely will not fit my dual setup.
I still have to find a fitting location for my oil catch cans. I am not going with AN- fittings on the cam covers. I guess it remains to be seen whether I can get the hoses tight enough. Seems to me that it's a system that is usually vented to the air, which means to me that it doesn't have to be that tight. The main benefit of AN- fittings is their beauty. I have exceeded my budget on AN- fittings
Having a bit of a time on the power-steering fluid reservoir mounting. I think I'm missing a bracket. There are so many images on the internet that I figured it would be easy to find a picture of one, so I know what I'm looking for in my parts. At least 50% of the query results don't have the reservoir. There is a bracket on the reservoir, and there is a bracket that attaches to that... that's what I don't appear to have. There may be more. I see it in the parts list, but I see no way for that to attach on mine. The engine isn't going in this year after all. No sense if it's not ready to run. I think I'm on week six of the three weeks I was given to park outside. It will soon be time to put her away again. So much to do.
Time files, I think it was Saturday morning, I was making brackets for the oil cooler. Each bracket needed three holes drilled, total 24 holes, made harder because half were pre-bent in order to have all the bends identical. A drill press is handy, but it's still tedious, boring... a six hour stint and time seems to pass with nothing happening. I want to drive this fucker. Anyway, projects coming along, front end is jacked up. I probably should back up the rear now, and do the damn copper washers on the fuel filter.
The helicoil job remains to be done, and the valve adjustment, of course. None of the sensors are finally attached as I've not made a comparison to the documentation... figuring I'd figure that out when I attached the wiring harness, which I'm aching to do. I've still got those six injector retainers on the fuel rail at attach, and I presume the harness should be on first. Details. Details....
I've managed to be there every day for a week now for six hours a day. As long as they don't all slip away, I can do this
I have dual-electric fans, and therefore, no fan on the water pump. I still believe I'm keeping the AC, but I haven't figured out exactly what I need to save and reinstall in that department. There are two additional fans from the original setup. I believe that one goes in front of the radiation, in there with the horns and hood mechanism, the other behind the radiator in a cage of its' own. That definitely will not fit my dual setup.
I still have to find a fitting location for my oil catch cans. I am not going with AN- fittings on the cam covers. I guess it remains to be seen whether I can get the hoses tight enough. Seems to me that it's a system that is usually vented to the air, which means to me that it doesn't have to be that tight. The main benefit of AN- fittings is their beauty. I have exceeded my budget on AN- fittings
Having a bit of a time on the power-steering fluid reservoir mounting. I think I'm missing a bracket. There are so many images on the internet that I figured it would be easy to find a picture of one, so I know what I'm looking for in my parts. At least 50% of the query results don't have the reservoir
. There is a bracket on the reservoir, and there is a bracket that attaches to that... that's what I don't appear to have. There may be more. I see it in the parts list, but I see no way for that to attach on mine. The engine isn't going in this year after all. No sense if it's not ready to run. I think I'm on week six of the three weeks I was given to park outside. It will soon be time to put her away again. So much to do.Time files, I think it was Saturday morning, I was making brackets for the oil cooler. Each bracket needed three holes drilled, total 24 holes, made harder because half were pre-bent in order to have all the bends identical. A drill press is handy, but it's still tedious, boring... a six hour stint and time seems to pass with nothing happening. I want to drive this fucker. Anyway, projects coming along, front end is jacked up. I probably should back up the rear now, and do the damn copper washers on the fuel filter.
The helicoil job remains to be done, and the valve adjustment, of course. None of the sensors are finally attached as I've not made a comparison to the documentation... figuring I'd figure that out when I attached the wiring harness, which I'm aching to do. I've still got those six injector retainers on the fuel rail at attach, and I presume the harness should be on first. Details. Details....
I've managed to be there every day for a week now for six hours a day. As long as they don't all slip away, I can do this
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Here is the intercooler in what I hope is the final mounting position. It is one-inch lower than before.
Edit: it sure looks crooked in this pic. I have to stand on it or something. That can't be.
I still trimmed two pieces of metal off the passenger frame rail, and it's still not a perfect fit, but it will do....
The second piece of pipe in that section of pipes doesn't quit fit yet. The silicone connectors are not the easiest thing to install. I didn't want to use petroleum based lube (like Vaseline), so I used a bit of dielectric grease which is supposedly silicone-based
.
That's about all I did today. My hole saw is due today by 10 PM from Amazon. It's "out for delivery" now, and if it shows up before 3, I think I will head back to the garage an finish cutting that hole where the battery used to reside. I'm pretty-well decided that I will run the oil lines from the relocation adaptor to the remote filter inside the engine compartment... running them along the bottom of the radiator. I have 20' of hose and plenty of connections. The guy that I am copying used 16' of hose, so I possibly have it down to 12' to 14'.
I had lost or misplaced the bolt for the timing belt tensioner and got a new one today at the hardware store. The Helicoils for the cam bearing cap are here, so I'd better steady my hand and do that soon, too. Water lines are attached to the turbo and I confirmed that the flow direction of the water makes absolutely no difference, although I think I got them backwards from the original CT-26, I'm quite sure they will be okay.
Waiting for DriftMotion to deliver a temp sender, a couple of fittings and two feet of hose to build a hose for the AN-4 requirement for the turbo oil feed. With that, the turbo is plumbed There is still a hole in the oil pan that I need to plug (from the OEM oil cooler return, I believe), and at least one other hole on that side of the block that I need to identify... and probably plug.
Tempted to start putting the wire harness on, so that I can quit worrying about those little screws on the fuel rail. I do remember originally taking the wire harness off... in 2006... and it was very complicated. I took pictures and later in documentation found that two of the electrical fittings that could be positioned wrong, were positioned wrong
I'm obviously worried about the cam bearing cap threads. The Helicoils are very short, the hole is very long. The original threads are still in place in the bottom of the hole. I hear stories about people using multiple Helicoils in a single hole. I'm inclined to only drill to the depth that the Helicoil requires, and insert only one. Not sure exactly how the threads between the coil and the original align themselves, but apparently they do. Feels like I will have a more reasonable chance of maintaining the 14 pounds torque. still necessary to be done at least a half dozen more times before I get the valve shims right. Worried? Yeah.
That's it for now.
Edit: it sure looks crooked in this pic. I have to stand on it or something. That can't be.I still trimmed two pieces of metal off the passenger frame rail, and it's still not a perfect fit, but it will do....
The second piece of pipe in that section of pipes doesn't quit fit yet. The silicone connectors are not the easiest thing to install. I didn't want to use petroleum based lube (like Vaseline), so I used a bit of dielectric grease which is supposedly silicone-based
.That's about all I did today. My hole saw is due today by 10 PM from Amazon. It's "out for delivery" now, and if it shows up before 3, I think I will head back to the garage an finish cutting that hole where the battery used to reside. I'm pretty-well decided that I will run the oil lines from the relocation adaptor to the remote filter inside the engine compartment... running them along the bottom of the radiator. I have 20' of hose and plenty of connections. The guy that I am copying used 16' of hose, so I possibly have it down to 12' to 14'.
I had lost or misplaced the bolt for the timing belt tensioner and got a new one today at the hardware store. The Helicoils for the cam bearing cap are here, so I'd better steady my hand and do that soon, too. Water lines are attached to the turbo and I confirmed that the flow direction of the water makes absolutely no difference, although I think I got them backwards from the original CT-26, I'm quite sure they will be okay.
Waiting for DriftMotion to deliver a temp sender, a couple of fittings and two feet of hose to build a hose for the AN-4 requirement for the turbo oil feed. With that, the turbo is plumbed
There is still a hole in the oil pan that I need to plug (from the OEM oil cooler return, I believe), and at least one other hole on that side of the block that I need to identify... and probably plug.Tempted to start putting the wire harness on, so that I can quit worrying about those little screws on the fuel rail. I do remember originally taking the wire harness off... in 2006... and it was very complicated. I took pictures and later in documentation found that two of the electrical fittings that could be positioned wrong, were positioned wrong
I'm obviously worried about the cam bearing cap threads. The Helicoils are very short, the hole is very long. The original threads are still in place in the bottom of the hole. I hear stories about people using multiple Helicoils in a single hole. I'm inclined to only drill to the depth that the Helicoil requires, and insert only one. Not sure exactly how the threads between the coil and the original align themselves, but apparently they do. Feels like I will have a more reasonable chance of maintaining the 14 pounds torque. still necessary to be done at least a half dozen more times before I get the valve shims right. Worried? Yeah.
That's it for now.
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The hole saw came and I couldn't resist returning to the garage.
Here's the relocated oil filter in the left front wheel arch where the battery would sit if not also relocated.
Here is a shot from the top:
I will spruce up the hole, finish removing the battery tray, smooth and paint. For now, it's mounted
Long day here today.
Here's the relocated oil filter in the left front wheel arch where the battery would sit if not also relocated.
Here is a shot from the top:
I will spruce up the hole, finish removing the battery tray, smooth and paint. For now, it's mounted
Long day here today.
I am on week 7 of the "3 weeks" written permission from my landlord to stay parked outside the garage.
For the first time in ten years, I can leave jobs unfinished, where they lay, perhaps with the tools left out of the box. It was handy at first, now I can't seem to find anything. The two new brass washers I got from the dealer for the fuel filter were nowhere to be found. I ended up using two used ones from my trays of parts.
The upshot of having space is that it's wrecked my organization of things. I searched for an hour for the fuel filter bracket, the one I now realize I also did not install when I did the original fuel filter replacement. I'd seen that bracket a hundred times and said to myself, "self, what is that for?", and now I knew, and it took me an hour to find it. Ahh, life.
A DriftMotion delivery that wasn't expected until Tuesday was on the ground outside this morning, and now I can officially say that my turbo is plumbed. I haven't run the source water line because I want to confirm where I'm getting it off the block. There is a hole on the engine serial number plate that accepts a banjo fitting holding a short tube to the block. The hose that came off was covered with something heat resistant, I'm hoping not asbestos. The implication was that it was the feed and went to the hot side of the turbo. Direction of the water through the turbo does not matter and I've already plumbed the hot side to return at the thermostat housing.
Here's where I'm getting the water. Love to hear a confirmation that this is correct, and an answer to the question in the picture.
Terrible lighting. Sorry. The "What?" is asking about the hole. Is this an oil feed that I should plug, because my feed is off the DriftMotion adapter? i think that is true. There's also a hole above and to the right of this picture that is open and I do not yet understand.
The 90 degree AN-10 fittings (and imaginary hoses and hardpipe) only clear things by a very small, if any, distance. I may end up doing something different. The oil filter is being relocated to the left front inner wheel well and the hoses are going to run in the engine compartment along the lower edge of the radiation. It may be better to do down and around, vs. how the fitting are pointed now.
Here's another shot of the turbo side of the block...
Here is one of the turbo with the oil feed hose plumbed...
I'm thinking that the NSF thread on the fitting between the turbo and the AN- piece is not supposed to be installed with teflon tape, that it is tapered by design and seals when it seats. Not sure if that is serious enough to take if off, or not.
While she's up in the air, I may go ahead and hang the exhaust. The safety loop (or hoop) is due Tuesday, so the drive shaft may get installed, too.
I hate how high she appears to sit, with no weight... even on the ground, it's five fingers. I fail to see any adjustment, and they are lowering springs at that. First things first... get her running and one of the first trips is for alignment. The entire suspension was done... and I'm sure nothing is right in that regard (alignment).
it won't be long until she's back in her garage. For now, it's this...
Stay well!
For the first time in ten years, I can leave jobs unfinished, where they lay, perhaps with the tools left out of the box. It was handy at first, now I can't seem to find anything. The two new brass washers I got from the dealer for the fuel filter were nowhere to be found. I ended up using two used ones from my trays of parts.
The upshot of having space is that it's wrecked my organization of things. I searched for an hour for the fuel filter bracket, the one I now realize I also did not install when I did the original fuel filter replacement. I'd seen that bracket a hundred times and said to myself, "self, what is that for?", and now I knew, and it took me an hour to find it. Ahh, life.
A DriftMotion delivery that wasn't expected until Tuesday was on the ground outside this morning, and now I can officially say that my turbo is plumbed. I haven't run the source water line because I want to confirm where I'm getting it off the block. There is a hole on the engine serial number plate that accepts a banjo fitting holding a short tube to the block. The hose that came off was covered with something heat resistant, I'm hoping not asbestos. The implication was that it was the feed and went to the hot side of the turbo. Direction of the water through the turbo does not matter and I've already plumbed the hot side to return at the thermostat housing.
Here's where I'm getting the water. Love to hear a confirmation that this is correct, and an answer to the question in the picture.
Terrible lighting. Sorry. The "What?" is asking about the hole. Is this an oil feed that I should plug, because my feed is off the DriftMotion adapter? i think that is true. There's also a hole above and to the right of this picture that is open and I do not yet understand.
The 90 degree AN-10 fittings (and imaginary hoses and hardpipe) only clear things by a very small, if any, distance. I may end up doing something different. The oil filter is being relocated to the left front inner wheel well and the hoses are going to run in the engine compartment along the lower edge of the radiation. It may be better to do down and around, vs. how the fitting are pointed now.
Here's another shot of the turbo side of the block...
Here is one of the turbo with the oil feed hose plumbed...
I'm thinking that the NSF thread on the fitting between the turbo and the AN- piece is not supposed to be installed with teflon tape, that it is tapered by design and seals when it seats. Not sure if that is serious enough to take if off, or not.
While she's up in the air, I may go ahead and hang the exhaust. The safety loop (or hoop) is due Tuesday, so the drive shaft may get installed, too.
I hate how high she appears to sit, with no weight... even on the ground, it's five fingers. I fail to see any adjustment, and they are lowering springs at that. First things first... get her running and one of the first trips is for alignment. The entire suspension was done... and I'm sure nothing is right in that regard (alignment).
it won't be long until she's back in her garage. For now, it's this...
Stay well!
Torin "Big Red" 6-ton. They're not at the top, but it was sketchy getting it up there. Got these after the Harbor Freight recalls where I returned eight stands. These have a steel pin that goes through the head, so not just relying on the rachet. .
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Committed
16ga 304 stainless steel. I ordered a short pipe to experiment with... and still need to locate the solar paste and solvent. This just became a back-burner job. Pressure washed the engine bay again for final paint... going to scratch it up a bit before spraying. Car was originally black, so engine bay is black and I like it that way
Hope everyone celebrating Christmas had a great one!
Bring on 2021. Hurry up January 6th, then 20th. It's time.
16ga 304 stainless steel. I ordered a short pipe to experiment with... and still need to locate the solar paste and solvent. This just became a back-burner job. Pressure washed the engine bay again for final paint... going to scratch it up a bit before spraying. Car was originally black, so engine bay is black and I like it that way
Hope everyone celebrating Christmas had a great one!
Bring on 2021. Hurry up January 6th, then 20th. It's time.
Where "water" is the place where the oil supply pipe to the turbine is installed. The water supply for cooling the turbine is taken from the water pump housing and into the thermostat housing. The tube in the photo (water) is a tube from the oil pan, the oil drain from the cooler is factory-made.
Above the engine number, to the right of the oil supply hole, a 1/8 cone hole for the oil pressure sensor for the instrument panel. The blind hole (?) Is just an 8mm thread.
Above the engine number, to the right of the oil supply hole, a 1/8 cone hole for the oil pressure sensor for the instrument panel. The blind hole (?) Is just an 8mm thread.
Any confusion in my mind is due to not running the ct26. Let me absorb this at the garage as it sounds like I’ve got something wrong.
Thank you @trofimovich. After reading your comments and looking at the car here are pictures with my responses.
I see the water source for the turbo is here on the back of the water pump. The return is on the top of the thermostat housing.
The banjo attached to the block serial number plate would have dumped oil into my water (actually, water into my oil perhaps) if used as the turbo water source. There was definitely a reason this wasn't bolted down and hose attached. It needed confirming... and I'm glad it was
It will be plugged since the turbo oil source is coming off the filtered side of the DriftMotion relocation adapter. The pre-filtered side has an oil temp sender.
The oil return hole in the oil pan will be plugged. This was for the OEM oil cooler. I'm running a sandwich thermostat off the relocated filter
and those hoses handle the return.
This must be the location you said for a oil pressure sensor (not water temp as pic marked). Your post implied OEM, but, I don't think I have anything to fit here.... Will investigate.
The last picture here of the threaded hole above the OEM oil filter location. being only a threaded hole, it requires no plug. It must have been for a turbo brace, bracket or shield with the OEM ct-26, maybe?
I think I got what I should have gotten from your response to my post... notably that my identified water source was an oil source. Thanks again for confirming various aspects... and please, comment on the last pic with the "?" mark.
I see the water source for the turbo is here on the back of the water pump. The return is on the top of the thermostat housing.
The banjo attached to the block serial number plate would have dumped oil into my water (actually, water into my oil perhaps) if used as the turbo water source. There was definitely a reason this wasn't bolted down and hose attached. It needed confirming... and I'm glad it was
It will be plugged since the turbo oil source is coming off the filtered side of the DriftMotion relocation adapter. The pre-filtered side has an oil temp sender.
The oil return hole in the oil pan will be plugged. This was for the OEM oil cooler. I'm running a sandwich thermostat off the relocated filter
and those hoses handle the return.
This must be the location you said for a oil pressure sensor (not water temp as pic marked). Your post implied OEM, but, I don't think I have anything to fit here.... Will investigate.
The last picture here of the threaded hole above the OEM oil filter location. being only a threaded hole, it requires no plug. It must have been for a turbo brace, bracket or shield with the OEM ct-26, maybe?
I think I got what I should have gotten from your response to my post... notably that my identified water source was an oil source. Thanks again for confirming various aspects... and please, comment on the last pic with the "?" mark.
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