MrOizo's JZA70 - 2JZGTE and V160!!

spiller

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#41
very cool build mate. i was under the impression that the v160 was a lot of fucking around to get right in the A70 trans tunnel, i'm obviously wrong! so it was just the remote shifter that needed modifying was it? this is something that I would definately consider for the future, my R154 is feeling a little tired and I had the V160 in my RZ, was oodles better than the R154 shift qaulity.

your radiator shroud looks good too, are they davies craig fans? i'm running a very similar set up and also made my own shroud - looks basically the same as yours. I have had a few people warning me that the flat shroud close to the radiator core will restrict it too much but so far so good with mine. what are those two horizontal brackets that you have riveted onto the shroud top and bottom for???
 

MrOizo

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#42
very cool build mate. i was under the impression that the v160 was a lot of fucking around to get right in the A70 trans tunnel, i'm obviously wrong! so it was just the remote shifter that needed modifying was it? this is something that I would definately consider for the future, my R154 is feeling a little tired and I had the V160 in my RZ, was oodles better than the R154 shift qaulity.

your radiator shroud looks good too, are they davies craig fans? i'm running a very similar set up and also made my own shroud - looks basically the same as yours. I have had a few people warning me that the flat shroud close to the radiator core will restrict it too much but so far so good with mine. what are those two horizontal brackets that you have riveted onto the shroud top and bottom for???
Thanks for the comments :)

The main thing that needed modifying were really from the bell housing to the diff - shifter being shortened ~100mm and the prop shaft being made up.

On the shroud i used the angle pieces to provide some rigidity - most likely not needed due to the Aluminium sheet being 2mm thick but thought why not since it was there. Originally i was supposed to have the louveres like the Adrenalin Motorsport have on theirs that close up when the fans are on and open when cruising on the highway but couldnt be stuffed. Another reason was that if the fans stuffed out, i might have more room to add different shape/bigger ones.

I have had these running in the car (only yesterday) and the amount of suction is awesome! Heaps of flow! The fans are some from STA Parts here in NZ - importers for things like ARP, wiseco and bring the cheap knock off stuff too.

Its a bit hard to tell but I actually folded it the wrong way - i drew it all up on the protective side and when i started the folding, i realised what i had done! OOPS!

---------- Post added at 07:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:03 AM ----------

Oh, should have added that the tunnel needed a little 'Persuading' ;)
 

spiller

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#43
On the shroud i used the angle pieces to provide some rigidity - most likely not needed due to the Aluminium sheet being 2mm thick but thought why not since it was there. Originally i was supposed to have the louveres like the Adrenalin Motorsport have on theirs that close up when the fans are on and open when cruising on the highway but couldnt be stuffed. Another reason was that if the fans stuffed out, i might have more room to add different shape/bigger ones.

I have had these running in the car (only yesterday) and the amount of suction is awesome! Heaps of flow! The fans are some from STA Parts here in NZ - importers for things like ARP, wiseco and bring the cheap knock off stuff too.

Its a bit hard to tell but I actually folded it the wrong way - i drew it all up on the protective side and when i started the folding, i realised what i had done! OOPS!

haha I did exactly the same thing with mine! i even made a note on the side that I wanted to be exposed but when I folded the ends I still got it wrong, hilarious. you can't see any of the scratches once it's in the engine bay anyway though.

how do adrenalin motorsports operate their louveres? interesting concept.
 

MrOizo

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#44
haha I did exactly the same thing with mine! i even made a note on the side that I wanted to be exposed but when I folded the ends I still got it wrong, hilarious. you can't see any of the scratches once it's in the engine bay anyway though.

how do adrenalin motorsports operate their louveres? interesting concept.
for sure! :) thats why i didnt get too upset. If i was tooooo worried i was thinking about running over it with wire wheel to give it a 'brushed' look and maybe painting it.

here is a pic of their setup (see that the newer versions dont have the louveres):

http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...n-amp-Shroud-Cooling-Kit&highlight=fan+shroud

"Note the rubberized vent flaps - not affixed in this picture, but will be secured in the final product. "
 

spiller

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#45
thanks for that link, looks like we got it right with our shrouds. i doubt the flap makes a great deal of difference but interesting to say the least
 

MrOizo

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#47
thanks for that link, looks like we got it right with our shrouds. i doubt the flap makes a great deal of difference but interesting to say the least
Yeah - no need for the flaps.

Looks good, GL with the upgrade
Cool - thanks :)

---------- Post added at 08:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:07 AM ----------

Came across some pics of the air convent that i made up.

The objective of this was to have more room under the dash for the 2JZ ECU which i just couldnt get in there without cutting the glove-box up.

I copied the flanges of the stock air box and then got some ducting to put in between... Im sure NASA would be proud - right? :)







 

MrOizo

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#51
Haha cheers.

V160 wasnt too hard to fit. As noted from http://turbosupras.com/pages/pages/technical/a70 engine conversion.htm:
Firstly, the left hand side gearbox tunnel mount point needs to be hit with an engineering stick (hammer) mid way up, this is due to the R154 being larger on 1 side, thus the tunnel is not centred down the middle of the car.

The second spot is on the right hand side, around 36mm (1.5") in front of shifter hole, a firm hit with the engineer's stick will be plenty.
Not too hard but took a bit of putting the engine in and out. Only modification to the tunnel apart from making those two sections slightly bigger was moving the shifter hole about a inch to the rear of the tunnel - nothing major at all!




This thread is the tits. Subscribed.

---------- Post added at 01:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:29 AM ----------

Oh, did you have to modify the trans tunnel or anything else on the car to make the v160 fit?
 

MrOizo

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#53
This was originally a JZA70 auto so had the 3.7 torsen LSD.

I should add the dyno video. Will do once I have better signal on my phone.

While I replying I should thank Ronnie (RK Bush guy) for supplying and helping me remove the old bushes from the upper aluminium A arms.
 

spiller

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#54
How does it feel behind the getrag? I've got a 3.7 behind my r154 with a 1J but it makes the car a bit sluggish off the mark and out of corners. You prob dont have that issue with the 3L
 

87mk111

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#55
Nice build thred, and nice info on the v160 mod to fit our cars, I'm now considering this swap, the v160 was holding me back (that and the cost of it lol), so I'm gonn astart researching this swap and the cost of it a little more.
 

MrOizo

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#57
I haven't really noticed a problem with the 3.7 - mainly because I haven't really got anything to compare it to.

If I had to fault something, it would be first hear being too short. It's not major but not as bad as most have said it would be:
"it will be a stump puller man"
Mainly from some one who read it from some one who heard it from somewhere who thought it wouldn't work. :)

How does it feel behind the getrag? I've got a 3.7 behind my r154 with a 1J but it makes the car a bit sluggish off the mark and out of corners. You prob dont have that issue with the 3L
 

MrOizo

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#59
Cheers :)

---------- Post added at 06:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:36 AM ----------

I have had a bit of reworking going on for the fuel pump and have got a kit to sense any voltage on the FPC wire to switch a relay. This is to do away with the FP ECU and only having one speed on the Bosch 044

I have been trying to test it but i am getting no voltage from this wire. Everywhere i have read says this should put out a 3-5v signal.

When the key is turned to ON (or Start), i should have 5v and then 0v after a few seconds if the engine hasnt started yet. I have 0v all the time.

Is there something that i might have forgotten to plug in to not have any voltage on this wire? Hmmmmm

--------------------------

I should have added that i have no FP ECU which is the whole reason for coming up for a solution for no FP ECU.

I have a simple Jaycar kit which detects a pulsed frequency and turns a relay on.

I had a play today and have taken these photos:

IGN OFF, connected to Earth and FPC from ECU


IGN ON, connected to Earth and FPC from ECU




IGN OFF, connected to 12vand FPC from ECU


IGN ON, connected to 12vand FPC from ECU


Any suggestions as to whats going on here? I am starting to think its the ECU...
 

MrOizo

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#60
WOW - after getting a bit of motivation from looking at a few friends cars i have managed to get the intake side along with some 750cc injectors and dual entry rail from Fuel Injector Clinic installed.

I am feeling pretty pleased with what i got done today. Pics are in reverse order :eek:















Other things i have done since last posting is installed resistors to increase inpedence to suit the JDM ECU. The plan is to get this running with the t04z for now and once im happy with it, go stand along ECU. It will most likely be the Link G4 Extreme here in NZ or to you US based peoples, the Vipec V88.
 

MrOizo

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#61
Got the call from my builder today! Very exciting! Looks the business too!

Could be very busy tomorrow fitting everything now. Maybe if i get my package from the US soon, i'll be able to start this up this month! (Just kidding :lol: :lol: )

 

brotherd

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#62
Rep NZ! Way to go on this build, looks the business! I have seen your car around from time to time. Didn't realise the extent of the work you've done though! I'm just about to ditch my 1JZ in my JZA70 and go to 2JZ. It would be good if I can get in touch with you to ask a few questions. Is there anyway of getting around the turbo's fouling on the brake & clutch master? Solid mounts maybe and take a small bit of meat off for more room?

Anyway good to see your on here and keeping us updated! Cheers :)
 

MrOizo

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#63
Hey thanks for the support! Updates are slowing down as things get serious and hard :p

Dont mind at all with any questions. I think the turbo's fouling on the master cylinders is unavoidable but could be wrong. It's been a while (18 months) since i had the turbos in there.

Feel free to email me: adrian-at-mroizo.co.nz

Rep NZ! Way to go on this build, looks the business! I have seen your car around from time to time. Didn't realise the extent of the work you've done though! I'm just about to ditch my 1JZ in my JZA70 and go to 2JZ. It would be good if I can get in touch with you to ask a few questions. Is there anyway of getting around the turbo's fouling on the brake & clutch master? Solid mounts maybe and take a small bit of meat off for more room?

Anyway good to see your on here and keeping us updated! Cheers :)
 

MrOizo

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#64
A little update...

Got a Bosch water temp sensor in the stock ECU sensor location, and also the Defi water sensor in the stock JZA80 gauge location.

Got my seats in:



Ordered my ECU:



Things are finally working out!
 

MrOizo

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#66
Good stuff!
I see you have Bride rails? Would have been much easier if i used them!
I made some square rod threaded to suit the 2 bolt holes at the front of the seat.

This is from another forums i am a member on:

I am at the stage of fitting the Evo 7 Recaros in my car.
I was under the assumption that if your car had Recaro's factory fitted then it was all gravy to fit Recaro's from another car using your car's original rails - and i was wrong!

The ones i have, have been slightly modified and made to suit bride rails. Not a major problem as the privisions for the JZA70 rail bolt spacings are there, just have no thread.

In this picture, the seat is in the bottom, and the JZA70 rails are on the top.
The rear mounting point is all good but its the two front ones that are making my head hurt.



I have thought about putting in some steel plate behind the seat's rail and having two tapped, correctly spaced holes in there to mount the JZA70 rails to it (The two front bolts).

Very basic pic showing what i mean, looking front on:



Any other ways that i should go about this? Is there something that i could use? Dont really want to use nuts with washers.
 

MrOizo

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#67
Well i guess its time to update before we go into 2012!

Have loom made up - nice and simple now which is nice! Should have got pics before it went in.... oops!

Fitted the Bosch 044 pump to the stock hanger. I wish i had of done this at the start. Plan was to go with stock pump as a lift pump and then have a surge tank under the trunk floor and have the 044 there.






Will need to visit the hose shop soon to sort this all out! Exciting :)
 

MrOizo

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#68
Little update.

Managed to sort mounting the pump with the right lines, and also sorting a bulkhead (90'deg).

Didnt know the Speedflow Pushlock series was so expensive!











have the pump sitting a little higher to take the kink out of the line. Test fits to be chur to the choice!
 

MrOizo

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#70
Drilled the thread out of this fitting and polished the inside and made sure there were no foreign bits and nothing looked like it would come loose.
Also drilled holes in the lower half of the fitting to make sure that if the pump bottomed out on the floor of the tank then it wouldnt get blocked!







I didnt want to have the fuel go from the Bosch 044 into a shitty arseeed stock line so had a -6AN 90deg fitting on the top.

After hours (even months on and off) sussing out how it it would go, i managed to come up with this setup here....
Pass the hose through the hanger. There is plenty of structure from the hanger still there so no worries.

I have even utilised the stock return as i am sure this aid's in keeping fuel in the internal baffle for the pick up.










Test fit of the new Pushlock! (Not baaaaaddd!)











Finished design all hose clamped up and ready to install!












Pointless photo of FPR!

 

MrOizo

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#71
Forgot to get a pic of the top of the tank. Lucky i didn't remember ifbi tightened the fittings on the hanger.
Rerouted the breather too which i like better.

Also shut off the stick feed as that's no longer needed.

 

MrOizo

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#72
Modified the Power Steering resevior as with the blow-off valve on the side of the throttle body it would foul on the resevior (its wrapped up because it is so pretty and i dont want to scratch anything :p)

I had ideas of mounting other reseviors but just didnt look right - maybe its because i was used to seeing the one from factory there?

Anyways, I used two reseviours:
I cut the legs off one for the tank itself, and
I cut the tank off one for the legs.
Had a look to see what worked best. The feed to the pump lines up almost in the same plane but i will need to allow for some movement of the engine and have a 'U' shape in the hose.

Had it welded up by my local exhaust guy - easy as!


After welding and painting!







How it now sits in the engine bay... Much better!
(The hole on the bracket was pretty much the centre of the tank before cutting)



 
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1jz-Rolla

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#73
Nice work. Lost track of this thread sorry so never replied about the Recaro seats. I don't have the Bride rails, just adapted the factory Evo sliding rails to the original JZA70 floor mounting brackets (via 5mm plates running the length of the seat, and some welding).

Cheers
Phil
 

MrOizo

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#74
Sounds like it worked out well then!

Nice work. Lost track of this thread sorry so never replied about the Recaro seats. I don't have the Bride rails, just adapted the factory Evo sliding rails to the original JZA70 floor mounting brackets (via 5mm plates running the length of the seat, and some welding).

Cheers
Phil
 

MrOizo

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#80
nice build so far!, what exhaust did you go with?
Thanks! I'm going with the HKS Hi Power. I was going to go something like a custom 4" but finding the mufflers and the cost of getting done was almost double what this cost. Its 3.7" diameter so that's big enough. Well should be!