Miekedmr's build thread

miekedmr

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#81
I've got a fair amount of fabrication to do (brackets galore, making hoses, and welding up the actual IC piping) before I can share installed pictures.
Next time I get a weekend to go work on it I should be able to get some progress pictures at least.

Thanks for the encouragement. :)

One more thing, I have been taking a class on using a CNC router -- my first project is to create a new transmission-to-bellhousing spacer from a single piece of stock to replace the one I welded together (which after welding, only sits flat when it is bolted down -- not ideal)

1kwz4RK.png
 

miekedmr

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#82
A JZA70 style compressor hotside merge pipe came in the mail from another member here.
Instead of turning 90* to the left toward the passenger fender like the Chaser pipe that I have, it bends forward and downward.
I picked it up because it will result in fewer bends in my IC piping. There will be a pie-cut section from a cast 2.25" elbow that will get welded to the front of it, so that I can have the V-band clamp pointed in a better direction.

wdmmZlx.jpg

I noticed there was some pretty bad shrouding around the port to the front turbo, so I ground it out with the dremel using a coarse sanding wheel bit.
Hopefully it was from imperfect casting and not an intentional thing -- it definitely seemed that way.
I'll probably pull the back pipe when I get a chance to make sure it's not shrouded in the same way.

IMG_20150221_160521_272.jpg
 

Rollus

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#84
Yeah, I have the same:
- Yellow fronts
- Red Rears
- Orange steering rack :)

For the A-arms and sway bars I went with Energy Suspension bushings (bought from ebay). If I had to change it, after readings, I may prefer SuperPros
 

miekedmr

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#85
Haha, very close. My rears are actually orange! I got the orange steering rack bushings too, though they are not pictured.

My reasoning for the rears was that while the durometer of the orange polyurethane is not that much higher than OEM rubber, the OEM bushings have air gaps in them to allow them to flex...
These are solid, and I believe that means they will still be substantially stiffer than stock.
Hopefully I get the happy medium I was aiming for in terms of the noise/vibration versus stiffness.

I have the Energy Suspension bushings as well. They were installed into arms from one of my previous cars, and I will be re-using some of them when I get around to overhauling the suspension on this one...
 

miekedmr

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#86
RHiRc0j.jpg

This is a spare set of turbos I bought from a member here. I ground off some casting flash and smoothed the bumps on the turbine housings, just because I can.
I've also done a little bit of porting on the manifolds and plan to do more.
Tonight, these will get boxed up tonight and mailed off to Driftmotion.

The stock twins that came on the engine are still installed, so I can still drive the car in the mean time. Hopefully I will have this upgraded set back before they blow.
I will also try get the car on a dyno before then, for a good before/after comparison with the upgraded twins.

Coming up this weekend, I'm making a trip out to see the car and work on my IC setup. I foresee many hours with the TIG.
 
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miekedmr

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#87
Came down with a cold just in time for my work-on-the-car vacation, so I didn't get as much done as I hoped.
First thing on getting there the car wouldn't start even though the battery had a good charge. Checked the spark plugs and they were wet.
I put a fresh set of spark plugs in, installed the heatshrink spark plug boot covers I had got from driftmotion previously, used anti-sieze and appled lots of dialectric grease around the boot, then it started up fine.
I drove it just a little ways down the road and back, enough for the oil thermostat to open and the oil cooler to get toasty. The idle seemed smooth with it warm, too.

I did get the post-pump heat exchangers installed. In a stroke of luck, the brackets for the intercooler the previous owner installed were exactly the right distance apart to attach these to.
Those are push-lock fittings that are missing the hoses. The upper hose will come from the pump and the lower will run to the intercooler cores.

heat_exchanger_1.jpg

heat_exchanger_2.jpg

That's the oil cooler mounted behind them.
 

miekedmr

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#88
intercooler cores and tb.jpg

The intercooler cores and throttle body got their lips cut off to fit the v-band flanges.
After the flanges are welded on I'll go back and blend the edges inside.
 

miekedmr

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#90
Thank you, Rollus, for your continued thread patronage and encouragement, haha. I can't wait to have it together either.

I'm working on getting access to a TIG welder at a local "maker space" (http://artisansasylum.com/) to speed up the project since I have to travel a long way to use my own. (I'd like to rent/buy a garage locally with 220v power but that's not in the cards yet... space is very expensive here)
 

miekedmr

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#91
update!

This part has been a pain. I could have probably made a jig of some kind and done the work on the lathe but that felt like it was going to be just as much work, so I did it manually with the dremel using cutting wheel + sander attachments.

The Y-pipe that joins the compressor outlets was cast with the inner diameter non-concentric with the outer diameter, and the O.D. was too large to fit into one of the v-band clamps, so I had to reduce the diameter while making it concentric to the inner diameter:

offsetcut.jpg

I'm almost there, just need to sand down some high spots. I've been using one of the stainless flanges for test-fitting since it has the same dimensions and it's less likely to get damaged repeatedly jamming it on.

almostfitted.jpg

As you can see the inner diameters line up well:

concentric.jpg

Originally, my plan was to first weld a 2.25" cast aluminum elbow on to the end of the pipe before the v-band, but I found the elbow on arriving was too narrow internally and generally low in quality. On top of that I don't think it was going to give me enough space for the pipe transitions between there and the IC cores. So, I picked up a 2.25" stainless 180+45 pipe to give me enough pipe to do the bend on the stainless side instead.
 
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miekedmr

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#92
baby steps... it's not welded yet but it's a snug fit now.

with ss pipe.jpg

You can see the supra xmas ornament my lady made for me in the background in the above picture.

gap gone.jpg

This one just shows up close that the gap there is pretty much gone.
 

miekedmr

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#93
Updates from last weekend!

#1: My upgraded 1JZ twins came in from driftmotion!

turbos5.jpg turbos4.jpg turbos3.jpg turbos2.jpg turbos1.jpg

#2: I drove the car a few miles and let it get up to temp and found some things:

  • there's an oil leak at rear of block, either crank bolt holes, just-replaced rear main seal, or maybe half moon seals in head. I'm hoping I just didn't seal the flywheel bolts well enough, or it's the head seals.
  • clutch not fully disengaging? difficult to get in and out of gear, probably just needs to be bled better...
  • starting circuit issues (the starter relay or wiring needs replacing - starter is brand new and spins 100% of time when given 12v right to the solenoid.)
  • it's a 5 cylinder most of the time.

At low load and high rpm it sounded as if all 6 were firing and it had a great sound and good response. Medium load, it sounds angry and lacks oomph, even for a lil ol' 1jz.
I didn't floor it at all, tried to stay out of boost, because the intercooler setup is still a work in progress, and this was my stand-in:

temp pipe.jpg

As for the non-firing cylinder, it's got to either be injectors or spark. I haven't done the necessary unplugging-of-things to diagnose it yet.
Whatever it is, I will probably replace with used-good parts as opposed to buying new ones. I want to go Megasquirt 3 later and any money spent on the stock injectors or ignition is going to basically be a loss.
 
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BrandonW

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#94
the twins look awesome

hope you get the bugs worked out and it doesn't become anything major
 

miekedmr

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#95
the twins look awesome
hope you get the bugs worked out and it doesn't become anything major
Thanks!

Good(-ish) news: I pulled the codes and it has a 12 and a 14, which are for the CPS and ignitor, respectively.
I also checked ignition coil resistance and it was pretty uniform across the board. I didn't really expect to find anything but it was easy to do.

I think I will try to address the CPS issue first and reassess after that's dealt with. I'll check to make sure grounds and battery voltage to the ignitor are sufficient, too, before I go off and buy a replacement.
 

miekedmr

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#96
Update!

So I made a little bit of progress with fabricating my IC piping, but most of my time has gone towards troubleshooting EFI issues, which are:
  • engine doesn't usually idle on its own, idles very slow when it does
  • Lots of missing/hesitation, even when all 6 cylinders appear to be at least partially operating
  • Intermittently, one or more cylinders won't fire, confirmed by disconnecting coils
  • strange behavior from check engine light - at one point was always-off, another point was always-on and wouldnt flash with TE1-E1 jumper
  • strange behavior on M-REL wire, sometimes the main relay was stuck on and fuel pump would run continuously with key in OFF position
  • detaching ecu from battery to reset it seems to trigger the coming and going of said strange behavior

I've done a lot of resistance testing on sensors, swapped out CPS sensors, swapped igniters, looked at signals to/from the igniter with an oscilliscope, and so on... Now, I have visually inspected my ECU several times looking for blown capacitors and everything looked fine, but that's no guarantee. My best guess at this point is that my ECU is junk, based on all the weirdness. I DON'T want to spend a bunch on a replacement OEM computer, so the plan is:

1. Replace all the capacitors just like driftmotion does. (My dad is going to do this because he's got a retirees free time and is handy with the soldering iron)

2. Plug the repaired ECU in, and if at least SOME of the weird issues dont go away at that point, I am going to say fuck it and get an MS3Pro.
 

miekedmr

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#97
The ECU repair is underway with low ESR caps --hopefully I end up with a working ECU. [edit: appears so!]
I've been pretty busy in and outside of work so no additional progress on IC piping.
I did collect some stuff for some wiring... 4 ground-triggered solid state relays (I have NPN transistors so they can be triggered by 12v too.)
I cut a little mount from wood to attach the fuse case to the relay case. (with super glue)

fuses relays.jpg

My plan is to use one for the 12v oil pump, two for the water to air IC pump circuit, and one will be part of my redone starter circuit (it ELIMINATES the normal relay while maintaining its function, turns the wire from the ignition switch into a low-current one, and greatly reduces the length of wire between my trunk-relocated battery and the solenoid)
 
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miekedmr

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#98
Got around to milling my bellhousing spacer plate that I showed the model for earlier.
My first attempt broke the only bit I had so I had to order more.
This time I did my surface clearing and contours with less depth/more passes and it worked great.

[video=youtube;qBQ4vy9QLLg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBQ4vy9QLLg[/video]

EIIXSRZ.jpg

R2eXUQ1.jpg
 

miekedmr

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#99
So: the car runs great with the repaired ECU.

:icon_bigg

On my last trip I also started to pull the motor so I can figure out where the oil leak is coming from. I think I just didn't do a good enough job of sealing the flywheel bolts, but we'll see.

IMG_20150711_114630_397.jpg

I got a better welding helmet (The auto-darkening one I had wasn't strong enough to keep my eyes from getting flashed) and some tungstens.
I also got some 4943 aluminum filler rod delivered, way more than I need, because I couldn't find it for sale anywhere in less than 10lb quantities.
It doesn't depend as much on dissolving the base metal for strength the way 4043 does so I should have stronger welds with aluminum, in spite of imperfect technique on my part.

Oh, and... I picked up an aluminum bumper support from a mercedes on ebay. I want to try to do what josbeat did at some point in the distant future -- replace the steel bumper support with a modified aluminum one from another car to lose some mass off the front end.
 

BrandonW

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Good job on getting the car running good

Im interested on seeing what you do with the aluminum bumper support the pic is really small in the thread you linked
 

miekedmr

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Unfortunately, I didn't grab a picture of the mercedes bumper support when I had the chance, but it looks very close in width and overall dimension to the oem bumper support, and weighs about half as much!

Parts arrived:

IMG_20150725_144951_844.jpg
- new exhaust gaskets for when the driftmotion upgraded ct12as go on
- new 5mm longer bolts for the (5mm deeper than normal) bellhousing-to-transmission holes
- new valve cover bolts / spare set of spark plug galley bolts since I lost a couple from the last set
- new crankshaft bolt (since we heated the existing one a little bit in order to break it loose, and may have weakened it)
- new toyota driveshaft bolts/lock washers/nuts (on the way still)
- upper and lower heat shielding gaskets for intake manifold
- replacement silicone vacuum hoses since I have a couple cracked ones
- toyota oil filter
- new pcv valve

IMG_20150725_145018_489.jpg
When I was searching for someone that made the size bolt I needed for the bellhousing-to-transmission holes, I came across these lightweight aircraft aluminum bolts and figured why not? It's about a half ounce off the static weight of the car, and they have these nice logos that no one will ever see. :icon_razz

Last but not least, I bought a pair of little peltier dehumidifiers to help combat the moisture in the garage.

These:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RZVHB7M
 

miekedmr

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Both from driftmotion. They have a dropdown that lets you pick upper gasket, lower gasket, or both (+$47)

I wasn't sure whether they'd be some kind of multilayer composite thing or what, but they're just solid pieces of some type of hard plastic. I probably could have made some myself with the multiCAM I used for my transmission spacer but the price is not too bad to save myself the trouble. :)

Edit:
This flimsy little oil return bung I made (seen below) does not seal well to the pan. (no surprise.) So I am making a new thicker/flatter/better one from leftover 1/4" aluminum plate I used for my bellhousing-trans spacer.

[THUMB]http://www.supramania.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=72867[/THUMB]

I ordered a 1/2" NPT Tap, the needed drill bit, and a 1/2" NPT to AN-8 adapter to use for the new part:
Also shown are my oem driveshaft bolts from an offroad place.

lHJdx19.jpg
 
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miekedmr

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Status update. Projects not dead or anything, just been on hold due to some life changes. (New job, new apartment...)

The engines back out of the car so I can deal with leaks. I fitted the cnc cut trans-bellhousing spacer.

I might get another weekend to work on it before the winter, we'll see.
 

miekedmr

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Hb3vhHg.jpg

Thermal coated exhaust manifolds came back from Swaintech.

Td2qjUI.jpg

I had some time with the engine and painted the engine mounts and the turbo heatshield... nothing major.
 
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miekedmr

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I'm working on getting the upgraded turbos on the engine now that I think I've dealt with oil leakage...

Old turbos are off. I have some seals and new oem studs on the way. Changed out the turbine housing ring seals with my ordered-from-japan ones:

IMG_20160327_124335_313.jpg
old seal out

IMG_20160327_124358_132.jpg
New seals

IMG_20160327_125623_891.jpg

IMG_20160327_125642_839.jpg
 

miekedmr

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transmission is back on, those hard to find clutch inspection hole covers for the bellhousing are ordered, and I made some progress with the IC piping. I finished welding a vband onto the hotside merge pipe, then had a pro welder I know do the w2a IC cores because I suck. :)

zlAOzOK.jpg
His welds.

Mine:
qpDon0A.jpg
0ERKU38.jpg
 

miekedmr

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Zg3orVh.jpg

xVqvSxp.jpg

sand blasted, sanded + painted valve covers with caliper paint...
two different colors, just because I can.

cleaned and painted steering rack and caps, and put in the Ronnie K steering rack bushings.
 
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miekedmr

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- I put in a new-style PCV valve and grommet.
- I fixed the leaky hose on the exhaust side going from the valve cover to the inlet pipe, as well as the little hose that bridges the two valve covers.
- I fixed a leaky hose for the front turbo oil return by bending the return pipe a little and then using the Gates heatshrink hose clamps instead of worm gear ones.
- I re-wrapped all the spark coil wiring with new 1/4" split loom and high temp cloth harness tape, to replace the brittle crumbling old split loom.
- I put the lid on it

NxuXN6N.jpg
 

miekedmr

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I bought two new turbine clamps, the type on the right.

My OEM ones had pitted bolts from rusting, so I think I trust a new aftermarket one a little more.
 

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miekedmr

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I'm such a dumbass! the clamps don't fit these turbos. They are 89.2mm and the ct-12a turbine is ~78mm or 3". They must be for ct12-b's or c's or something...

edit: The description gave no indication it wouldn't work with 1JZ turbos, but they're definitely way too big... I'm going to see about sending them back.
 
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