maybe the best 7Mgte for track use.

josbeat

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here i will post what i consider the best 7M we can build for track use
every day i miss that egine
it dide and the reason was a piece of paper into the engine bloked one of the oil lines ( thanks to a one of my friends who only want to help)

the list of things are:

7Mgte block decked to have the piston head just to the top edge of the cylinder walls
1.2 metal head gasket but it depends of the compression you like to have or the combustion chamber modification
cylinder head ported with a set of 0,5 oversized valves and combustion chamber modded like the 2JZ have
BC valve spring set and titanium retainers
BC 272 cams
set of adjustable cam polleys
Pauter conrods
Wiseco Pistons
racing set of crank and conrod bearings
clutch and flywheel at your election but i like the carbon disc clutch kit from Tilton.
custom dry sump system with vaacum controler and VPC valve
ARP studs
Water methanol system
programable ECU
900 cc injector minimum
bosch 044 fuel pump
good FPR
Garrett gGTX3582BB turbo or similar
OBX exhaust manifold is sufficient but the faces must be machined
free flow exhaust
ATI superdamper
Truck coils



here is the photos









































electric steering pump attached to the block














it can be lower than a standar heigh







 
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GC89

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Lots to love there. I know it was a track car but how was the response off boost? I have contemplated cutting the combustion chambers similar to a
2j or the group A heads but thought it would affect swirl and atomization.
 

josbeat

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the injectors to use is the new generation of Bosch injectors Rav4
very important mod is in the coolant system.
I am trying to finde some photos of the coolant system mods i did....
one of the mods was to open two holes in the cylinder number 6 , if we check the cylinder water passages over the head we can see that there is a water pasage who is not open on the head, we want to open that hole ,drilling is ok , no wooried to damage the head , it have a water room after drill 2 or 3 mm.
The other mod is to get the turbo water exit routed to the radiator directly and not to the engine block again like factory did, what i did was to use the back cylinder head hot water exit to feed the turbo, and the exit of he turbo routed to the back to the thermostat housing, there is many holes tapped with remomables plugs.
here is way i used a universal thermostat we can see in the middle of the top radiator pipe.
also i used an electric water pump used in many car for the heater system (mercedes , Bmw..) to force the water thru the turbo only when the fans are working also when the engine is off.
Also i used one of those holes in the thermostat cap to have the temperature switch to control two of Spal fans without a cover, that is very importan to to use a big fans and not a cover who close the back of the radiator, also is very important to have a good hot air exits over the bonnet or under the car.
 

josbeat

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recomended boost 1.5 to 1.7 bar but is at you own risk to have it well Mapped

a front face intake manifold recomended

offcourse a good intercooler

I remember to have the cams timming marks moved but dont remeber exactly how mutch, BC say to move the timming mark some degrees with the 272 cams.

i had the rev limiter rised to 7500 rpm but maybe will be possible to rise it more because the engine felt very happy on the high revolutions.

using the Garrett GTX3582 the boost lag was minimal minimal and the low end power was very good but is a race engine so it idling ... lumping a little and arround 1000 rpm
 

josbeat

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i say it again
now i am using a 2JZGTE vvti and every time i am inside the track .....i miss that 7M engine.


some peole maybe ask way 0,5 oversized valves and not 1 mm ??? to keep the weight of the valve as lower as possible for high revolution purpouse.

i dont want to forget to say what is my prefered wastwgate.... Tial 44 mm water cooled

the Bov i ma using is the Synaptic , dont know if it helps with the anti-lag
 

Enraged

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what is the valve type thing that you have attached to the block on the drivers side? looks like a crankcase vent?

did you build the drysump pan yourself?
 

hvyman

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Its a vacuum regulator. its needed for dry sump systems
 

hvyman

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The pump is a scavenge and pulls a vacuum on the crankcase to suck up the oil. There for you need a regulator to regulate the amount of vacuum in the crankcase.