LSx coils

grifter679

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looks pretty good, Im gonna try to figure out how to mount mine prob next week after I drop my engine back in, fortunately for me I have a FFIM, however I am running the older style LS1 coils with the plug end and coil end on the same side. There are two bosses on the driver side of the cylinder head near the fuel rail which i might use as my mounting location.
 

northwestsupra

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Wow very nice information!!!

That wiring diagram is slightly confusing to me. Would this be correct:

A: Ignition on power.
B: Ignition signal (positive or negative?)
C: ?
D: Ground

Are those capacitors necessary? If so what is there function?
* A = Coil Primary Ground or aka body ground
* B = Ignition low noise ground from ECU (ground) or aka ecu ground
* C = Ignition digital signal from ECU (+5V)
* D = +12V Supply to Coil Primary
 

northwestsupra

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ok so i just made up some brakets for the LS2 coils :) super cheap to, and it was a test of my ghetto abilitys lol parts list

3ft 1/4" fine thread stud $4
8 1/4" nuts $4
2 7/11 Slurpee aluminum straws cut 1 1/2" inbetween coils, and 1" for the end pieces $2
L bracket "pack of 2 with screws" $4
total price = $14

put all that together and do a little eye balling this is what you get :p









since i knew you all would be asking will the hood close yes it will, with a couple of washers at the hood mount to lift it off of the sexy coil harness i still am making lol

and just for a laugh, these will work just as good as these moroso part# 72395 ls2 brackets priced at $144.99
 

IJ.

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Heat rises, it's a furnace up there idling in traffic :(

Under the intake and ues the Vacc Reservoir mounting pad face the Coil outputs up and use straight boots will make the wires short as possible.

I bought a roll of MSD 8.5mm wire and terminals/boots from Summit that were cheap and made my own wires for the LSx in the Mk3.

You can either use the cheap crimper that MSD supply with the wire or by a real set of Crimpers, big advantage is they use removable jaws so one set can do all of your crimping needs short of Milspec stuff.
 

northwestsupra

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So I take it that we avoid heat to keep resistance down to get stronger spark and more accurate spark.. correct.

---------- Post added at 07:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:35 PM ----------

How about inbetween the intake and valve cover like above the fuel rail
 

IJ.

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Heat will eventually destroy the Coils, in the meantime they won't be "happy" so yeah reduced output..

I try to keep Injectors and Coils as far apart as I can if possible so wouldn't mount them up there.
 

IJ.

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118.75 without the tool plus shipping. That's cheap? Lol
It is.....

Price having a custom wire set made to your specs.

If you think $120 is expensive you've chosen the wrong hobby and one of the worst cars to use for it.

And that's ok no thanks required for going to the effort of spoon feeding you the links...
 

northwestsupra

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LOL sorry thanks a lot for the links. Its not rediculous pricing I'm just tired of putting money into it LOL I'm still unemployed so no cash flow. So 5 $ sounds Like a lot.
 

TurboStreetCar

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Im having the same dilemma right now. Well, not the unemployed thing, but the "where the f*** can i put these coils" Problem.

Im thinking since i want a FFIM anyway, ill just wait till then so i dont have to make 2 sets of spark plug wires and trigger harnesses.
 

northwestsupra

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Im having the same dilemma right now. Well, not the unemployed thing, but the "where the f*** can i put these coils" Problem.

Im thinking since i want a FFIM anyway, ill just wait till then so i dont have to make 2 sets of spark plug wires and trigger harnesses.
2 sets of spark plug wires???

yea mounting them in a spot where you can use stock lengthed wires is kinda tuff lol. idk i personally feel that the firewall would be fine, i mean some people have mounted the stockers up there to and had no failures that ive noticed. plus where it sits not the hood will be lifted a little higher so it should exhaust heat in that area a little better. so i think for now im gonna just leave them there, and leave extra harness wire incase i move them later. and just keep an eye on the temps of that area after doing some hard drives. and i also have 2 extra coils in case of failure
 

TurboStreetCar

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Well that point (hood to windshield) is a high pressure point at speed and will be an air intake rather then exhaust. Also water when you wash your car or drive in the rain. When i removed the rear weather striping at the rear of the hood, after washing my car water would fill the plug valley of cylinder 5-6. I had to cut a foot long section of the weather strip out and put it back at the rear of the motor so water could not run down the windshield and land on the motor.

Two spark plug wire sets because i would make a custom fitting set no matter where i mounted them. I want to mount them in a COP manner or on one of the valve covers but i cant because of the stock intake manifold.

If i were to mount them now i would have to make spark plug wires to fit with the stock manifold, then make another set after i mount them in a different place after i bought or made a FFIM.
 

QWIKSTRIKE

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Well that point (hood to windshield) is a high pressure point at speed and will be an air intake rather then exhaust. Also water when you wash your car or drive in the rain. When i removed the rear weather striping at the rear of the hood, after washing my car water would fill the plug valley of cylinder 5-6. I had to cut a foot long section of the weather strip out and put it back at the rear of the motor so water could not run down the windshield and land on the motor.

Two spark plug wire sets because i would make a custom fitting set no matter where i mounted them. I want to mount them in a COP manner or on one of the valve covers but i cant because of the stock intake manifold.


If i were to mount them now i would have to make spark plug wires to fit with the stock manifold, then make another set after i mount them in a different place after i bought or made a FFIM.


This is why I think the back fire wall is not a good idea......Happened to me years ago with the water flodding in a car wash. lol

Hey, chunks call me sometimes.....646 245 5908
 

Flateric

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Hey northwest, I managed to get all my coils nicely into my valley. The trick for me was to crisscross them. For example coil #2 sits ontop of spark plug #1 and Coil #1 sits ontop of sparkplug #2. The worked really well with the length of the premade spark plug wires I got from MSD (I think, I'll double check the brand name here for you). Crisscrossing the pairs like this into 3 groups allowed me to even put my plastic valley cover on to without any problems.

---------- Post added at 01:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:39 PM ----------

Hrm, I'm 2jz, so I'm not entirely sure if we have more valley space than the 7m does or not, it's been a few years since I had a 7m in my car and can't truly remember. Still I was having the same puzzle to figure out and finally fell upon this as the best solution for me. And so I was thinking may be a possibility for you too.

I'll snap a pic in a bit here to show you my solution to help clarify things for you.
 

supranasty

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Do these coils make your car faster with under 500 rwhp ?
Do they save gas ?
Where is the improvement ?
They seem to make more clutter in the enginebay .
HELP ME !
 

TurboStreetCar

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At higher boost levels the stock coils have a hard time sending enough voltage to the spark plug to create a spark because of a few reasons. The stock coils are old, they are used in wastespark so there lighting two plugs per fire an are also firing twice as often as a single coil per plug setup.

More voltage allows a larger gap to be run witch allows a greater chance of lighting the mixture more completely.

The LSx coils will fire once per cylinder power stroke and produce more voltage then the stock coils. They also have built in ignitors so for people running a standalone there easy to wire for the benefit of a hotter spark.

A hotter coil is like race fuel, it doesn't make more power alone but it gives the ability to make more power when utilized.
 

Flateric

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Do these coils make your car faster with under 500 rwhp ?
Do they save gas ?
Where is the improvement ?
They seem to make more clutter in the enginebay .
HELP ME !
I actually feel they create less clutter due to the lack of ignitor wiring. Not why I chose to do them personally. But I also just realized I didn't return with the promised pics for you yet northwest.

I chose LS1 coils because of the cracked JZ coils I had, the cost of new JZ coils and the fact I can get 8 LS1 coils for the price of 2 new JZ coils, they have a stronger spark, my ECU directly supports them without any issues by a wizard.

After using them for some time now I can honestly say I feel even at none performance activities. Say even idling, they do make a smoother, strongerengine operation.

I'll try to remember when I go out to park it after I eat here.
 

northwestsupra

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I actually feel they create less clutter due to the lack of ignitor wiring. Not why I chose to do them personally. But I also just realized I didn't return with the promised pics for you yet northwest.

I chose LS1 coils because of the cracked JZ coils I had, the cost of new JZ coils and the fact I can get 8 LS1 coils for the price of 2 new JZ coils, they have a stronger spark, my ECU directly supports them without any issues by a wizard.

After using them for some time now I can honestly say I feel even at none performance activities. Say even idling, they do make a smoother, strongerengine operation.

I'll try to remember when I go out to park it after I eat here.
hey its fine dude, the valley area is i know taller on a 2jz vs a 7m, and most likely they are wider.

i totally forgot about the water going past the weather stripping :p duhhhhhh oh well ill find a new place, im just going balls out and getting the DIY wiring kit that ian recommended.. thanks again Ian
 

grifter679

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i know that your kinda fucked with out having a ffim, but i have managed to mount my coils onto the two bosses on hte cyclinder head so that the coils sit above the fuel rail, It doesnt look to bad, and the bracket was fairly simple to build, I just used some 1/8th wall tubing with a ID of 1/4", then used some 1/4 allthread the tighten the col packes to the spacers, I will try to get pics up when I get a chance
 

northwestsupra

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well meanwhile, here is a wire diagram i did of my engine harness. The coil "ECU" ground is the only thing i still havent wired up.

this is my previous wiring diagram i went over it the diagram below


this is the same diagram but in-case someone see's something wrong with it here is the updated one with ignition switch and relays and ignition body ground
 
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northwestsupra

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well if i measured it up right i should have about 1 to 1 1/2" of clearance from the strut tower to the coil connectors. only thing that might get close would be the brake distribution block