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suprra_girl

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#1
so we all know, coolant out the overflow either means overfull or that dreaded *banned word* LOL

butttttttt what does coolant out the overflow mean when...... the car hasn't even been run for 48 hours lmao

oh btw, i am deadly serious, how does that happen LOL
 

7MGTEsup

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#2
So your saying it pushed water out the overflow while not running??
 

Supracentral

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#8
Ok,

There's a couple of things that can be going on.

IJ covered #1 - enviornmental reasons.

#2 could be chemical problems in the coolant (corrosion causing outgassing, etc.)

#3 could be electro-chemical problems. Where some parts of your motor are acting like a cathode and other parts an anode.

Both 2 and 3 are REALLY bad.

What type of coolant are you using, etc?

Are all of your ground straps intact? Is there a lot of drain on your battery? Does it go dead if you let the car sit for any length of time?
 

suprra_girl

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#9
Well overnight it was warmish, i noticed it when the sun started getting a bit hotter

I've only used one type of coolant, i didn't mix different brands
I'm using "Goldstate" coolant, 960ml/l ethylene glycol (4L pack)

cathode and anode... ya got me there lol, care to explain a little further?

My grounds are very very good in the car altho i do have a problem with code 11 which i think may be related to wiring directly at the ecu from previous owners wiring in fcd's, sld's etc

While running the batt is at 14.2v, with it being off overnight it was 12.7 with ign on i dropped to 11.9 and remained there. Cranking does put a load on the battery but i have 600ca to turn that engine over

thanks :D :)
 

IJ.

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#10
Grab an analogue multimeter (one with a needle NOT a digi) ground one probe set to millivolts and hang the other probe in the coolant making sure it's not touching the rad.
 

suprra_girl

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#11
i don't have an analogue multimeter lol

but i do know someone that has a multimeter with a temp probe thing on it, would it matter if it was digital?
 

SupraMario

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#15
The environmental thing is what I was thinking. Like when you can suck on a hose pipe thats in a pool and the suction and gravity will continue to draw the water out of the hose even if its higher than the hose.

At first I figured that you meant that your gauge plug at the bottom of the over flow, but had to read on, I've had that happen to me, old rubber! ><
 

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#16
I'd be willing to bet it turns out to be much simpler.

As in, there is a leak high up in the coolant system that is allowing air in, and the overflow tube being the lowest out point makes for a small demonstration of a siphon.

Got a radiator pressure tester?

Edit - beat to the punch by deadcell! :)
 

SupraMario

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#17
GrimJack said:
I'd be willing to bet it turns out to be much simpler.

As in, there is a leak high up in the coolant system that is allowing air in, and the overflow tube being the lowest out point makes for a small demonstration of a siphon.

Got a radiator pressure tester?

Edit - beat to the punch by deadcell! :)
Muahhaha,:biglaugh:....god im bored at work....O hell yea 20mins till time to go home!
 

SupraMario

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#19
IJ. said:
The stray current test should really be done anyway with the amount of body/electrical work that's been done on Suze's car ;)
Wouldnt that give her at least a small zap if she even went near the coolant, and if the electical is acting like its bleeding off into the coolant wouldnt her battery be dead within 48 hours.
 

IJ.

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#20
We're only talking millivolts here Mario not enough to zap you but enough to cause an electolytic reaction in the motor and make it eat itself starting with the softer metals.

I've seen a brand new aluminium rad that leaked in 2 weeks due to this.
 

SupraMario

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#21
IJ. said:
We're only talking millivolts here Mario not enough to zap you but enough to cause an electolytic reaction in the motor and make it eat itself starting with the softer metals.

I've seen a brand new aluminium rad that leaked in 2 weeks due to this.
Holy shit, why do i feel like grabbing my multimeter and checking this now. Thats a scary thought.
 

Supracentral

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#23
I had this problem on one of my old [strike]MKII's[/strike] 1977 Celica GT's. Ate the living shit out of the radiator, water pump and head before I tracked it down.

Nasty problem.
 
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suprra_girl

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#25
*screams* that doesn't sound fun :(

yes definitely getting one of those multimeters today

i "did" have a leaking temp sensor but i kinda forgot to tighten it LOL
 

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#26
Galvanic corrosion is a mean thing. I flooded my computer once, running a water cooling system with a copper / aluminum waterblock. Ate completely through 10mm of aluminum in a couple months. One of the reasons why I find copper head gaskets to be such a scary thought with our aluminum head!

Luckily computer gear is pretty waterproof by now, or I'd have had to replace a crapload of expensive 'puter parts.
 

suprra_girl

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#27
^ that definitely doesn't sound pretty

so how would i go about remedying this as i can't get an analog multimeter here :( so if i just do whatever the solution is, then i should be all good lol
 

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#28
Curious IJ, why do you say only an analog meter works for this?
I'm trying to picture why my Fluke wouldn't be able to measure it.
 

IJ.

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#29
Nick: There's something in the filtering of a Digi that stops it working.
(Haven't tried the new Fluke yet just my old generic Digi)

I ended up finding a analog MM at a local electronics shop.
 

Supracentral

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#30
I've got a fluke. I'll see if I can "create" the problem and then test for it with both.
 

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#31
Yeah my thoughts SC:
I just tested mine, 130mA on the fluke.

Something, but not significant.
Maybe I should drop a sacrificial anode in there.
 

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#33
Simple, two dissimilar metals in contact either surface, through an electrolyte (coolant) or electrical conductor.
 

IJ.

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#34
Nick: Wow that's way high!!

From memory acceptable was 50mv
(I'll have to check that to be 100% sure it's been awhile)
<edit> Confirmed 50mv is the acceptable limit
 

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#37
Hmm, damn, way high. Not good.
I will have to locate an analog someplace.
Yeah this isn't an average MM.

SC: What did you come up with?
 

suprra_girl

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#38
so i'm wondering if i forgot a little bit of info which may be needed

My overflow is now on the right side of the car and it's on a 45deg angle (i think 45deg) so on one side of the bottle it's quite full, on the other it's barely even starting on the low side lol

here's a pic, you can't really see the angle too much here but you can see the lid is down quite far from the top of that panel
http://www.supra.co.nz/rebuild/overflow.jpg

Here you can see the angle of the bracket, its supposed to be straight so you can get an idea of how much an angle it's on
http://www.supra.co.nz/rebuild/01102007/engine.jpg
 

SupraMario

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#39
suprra_girl said:
so i'm wondering if i forgot a little bit of info which may be needed

My overflow is now on the right side of the car and it's on a 45deg angle (i think 45deg) so on one side of the bottle it's quite full, on the other it's barely even starting on the low side lol

here's a pic, you can't really see the angle too much here but you can see the lid is down quite far from the top of that panel
http://www.supra.co.nz/rebuild/overflow.jpg

Here you can see the angle of the bracket, its supposed to be straight so you can get an idea of how much an angle it's on
http://www.supra.co.nz/rebuild/01102007/engine.jpg
I think the whole siphon thing now applies more than the electical theory.
 

suprabad

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#40
Piratetip said:
Yeah my thoughts SC:
I just tested mine, 130mA on the fluke.

Something, but not significant.
Maybe I should drop a sacrificial anode in there.
I'd be willing to bet that IJ is right about digi mm's not being able to properly measure this, because that's a way high reading.

On the other hand, I would have thought that the digi mm would give a low read or no read at all, and not a "high false" reading.

Hmmmm...better get your hands on an analog meter.