KYB Super Special for Street TEMS - close ups

alcyon

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I received the shocks today. Here are some close ups.
Overall they look very well made.
First off the box
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Next the instructions
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One front, one rear. The one with the long stub is for the front. Notice the rear shock has longer travel than the front.
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Close up of the front upper area
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Close up of the rear upper
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The lock nut for the top, I have no idea what the spring is for, the instruction offers no explanation.
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Gonna proudly stick these on the car..
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Seal area
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inner rod
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The Bump stop for the back, from a malaysian made car called the perodua axia. It is 3" long, is this the correct length for the rear shocks? I know for the fronts is nearly 2" long.
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Next I have some questions for you guys, in the following post.
 

alcyon

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I couldnt turn the rod inside because my long nose pliers are shot. I must buy new ones. The shocks come default in the hard position, parallel to the D shape. I pushed the shaft , the resistance is high, and when i let the shaft rebound, the front rebounds very slowly, and the rears rebound a tad faster. I have seen a video on youtube of a guy testing his TEMS shocks, and I always get the impression that if the shock is in firm mode, the shaft should be hard to push in, yet will rebound out quickly ? Is this correct ?

edit : i managed to use tweezers to turn the inner rod. At the soft position, rebound is the strongest, medium rebound is medium, and at firm rebound is slow. Is this the way its supposed to be?
 
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Piratetip

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Nice photos, thanks!

The spring...no idea what that's for.

I can check my spare Tokico's to see if that valving behavior is the same.
Though I think they are.
 
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alcyon

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Nice photos, thanks!

The spring...no idea what that's for.

I can check my spare Tokico's to see if that valving behavior is the same.
Though I think they are.
Piratetip, do you have any idea for the rear bumpstop. For a stock rear spring, what is the bumpstop length supposed to be? Should I make the same as the fronts, at 2" length ? Right now the bumpstop is 3" long, I am worried its too long and will keep hitting the bumpstop very often.
 

Piratetip

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Piratetip, do you have any idea for the rear bumpstop. For a stock rear spring, what is the bumpstop length supposed to be? Should I make the same as the fronts, at 2" length ? Right now the bumpstop is 3" long, I am worried its too long and will keep hitting the bumpstop very often.
I will check.
 

Piratetip

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I couldnt turn the rod inside because my long nose pliers are shot. I must buy new ones. The shocks come default in the hard position, parallel to the D shape. I pushed the shaft , the resistance is high, and when i let the shaft rebound, the front rebounds very slowly, and the rears rebound a tad faster. I have seen a video on youtube of a guy testing his TEMS shocks, and I always get the impression that if the shock is in firm mode, the shaft should be hard to push in, yet will rebound out quickly ? Is this correct ?

edit : i managed to use tweezers to turn the inner rod. At the soft position, rebound is the strongest, medium rebound is medium, and at firm rebound is slow. Is this the way its supposed to be?
I tested my spare F&R Tokico's on Soft / Medium / Hard settings.
To me they feel identical front and rear.

The adjuster is affecting dampening about the same on compression and rebound.
They appear to move in and out about the same speed.

Based on these adjuster settings.
 
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alcyon

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Ok. I Am in the process of installing rear shocks and i have 1 major problem.
My left rear TEMS motor is dead. I tried connecting it to the right side connector and indeed its not moving. Anyone have TEMS motor for sale ?
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MY TEMS motor has no part number on it. I am unsure if the wiring is the same as the US version.
 
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Enraged

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If I still had one, I'd give it to you for shipping cost. Once you switch out to upgraded shocks, they are useless.
 
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alcyon

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I just test drove the car. The shocks feel hard and bouncy. Noise suppression however is markedly better than the old mounts. Over painted speed breakers i hardly hear any thuds like before.
So why does the rears feel hard ?
1. Could it be i overtorqued the lower shock mount bolt causing the knuckle unable to comply with bumps in the road?
2. The upper rubber mounts are still new and hasnt "set in " yet, basically giving an extra "springing" effect ?
3. These KYB shocks are just some degrees harder than stock ? Could it be lower bushings are harder than stock ?I hadnt expect these to ride almost like coilovers..
And I have not switched over the fronts yet.
A push test on the car does feel harder to push than before.
 
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alcyon

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I figured I had nothing to lose taking apart the faulty TEMS motor so I did. The plastic looking cover isnt plastic, its actually rubber and quite east to remove once you cut off the two tightly strung zip ties toyota put over the rubber casing and the rubber boot.
I took it apart and found how it works.
Bassically its just a DC motor, a magnetic plunger at the back, and some sort of electronic component in the middle.
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First thing I did was checked continuity on all wires, all wires had a connection.
Under view of the unit removed from the big plastic gear. See the magnetic plunger at the back (with yellow tape )
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The bottom piece with the gear and the bottom cover. Notice the shape of the bottom cover, it will stop the limiter from over travel
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In soft position
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In Medium position, motor turns in other direction take note white gear supposed be turned maximum anticlockwise.
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In hard position, plunger goes down and motor attempt to turn back to soft.
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And guess what, I attempt to test the motor without the gear at the bottom, and when activated normal or sport button the motor turns !
It is only activated for 1 second but that's enough to make the pinion turn a few rotations.
It makes sense now how it works. A voltage is given in one polarity for soft, the motor turns a certain amount for 1 second, which is enough to turn the white gear all the way to its end travel.
After that the motor isnt powered but because the big gear will find it hard to drive the small gear the actuator stays at that position.
So the wear and tear on the motor is very low. When it needs to switch to medium mode it gives a reverse polarity voltage to the motor causing it to turn in opposite direction to its max travel allowed, then stay there till given instructions.
And for firm mode, the plunger comes down and the motor turns in either direction, depending if it needs to go from soft to hard or medium to hard.
I put some super lube grease on the plastic gear and sliding surface at the bottom and reassembled the actuator, this time without the zip ties. I reinstalled to the left shock and this time it worked even after repeated cycles.
So its back on the car and working now.