I take no joy in doing this, but AVOID YotaConnectors.com. Shit service and the dude owes me my harness or money, and he refuses to respond.

Piratetip

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Sounds good.
I will see what kinds of hits I get elsewhere before asking for your spare :D

There is bound to be one somewhere.
 

the t3d

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Sounds good.
I will see what kinds of hits I get elsewhere before asking for your spare :D

There is bound to be one somewhere.
Yeah man. I paid like 70 shipped for both a CPS and igniter from this kid on ebay. I did the ground wire mod to the igniter and rewired the CPS. Having known good back-ups is so useful for our cars lol. I also got the sexiest stock Supra steering wheel I've ever seen. The SM classifieds just don't see enough traffic flow anymore these days.
 

Piratetip

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You can take my old one fix up and give it back to me ;)
Well I could if you wanted, I have rebuilt these before with new seals and the bearing.

Also the replacement pin, tricky.
But I replace with a solid pin like stock.
NOT the roll pin, very bad idea to use that.

A rebuild "service" if you will.
 

the t3d

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Well I could if you wanted, I have rebuilt these before with new seals and the bearing.

Also the replacement pin, tricky.
But I replace with a solid pin like stock.
NOT the roll pin, very bad idea to use that.

A rebuild "service" if you will.
How much would this rebuild "service" cost? Hurry up, stimulus check lol
 

Piratetip

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Haven't thought about it yet.
Will let you know when I finish mine and determine how much work and time it takes to do one.
 

Piratetip

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I'm missing out on the cool kids place to sell stuff I guess. Oh well.
 

figgie

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I'm missing out on the cool kids place to sell stuff I guess. Oh well.
Avoid the tech stuff on fb as way above thier heads.

I was asked how do i know about stroker kits.

I just need to be asked how do i know of the ATI damper and i will post the picard with hand on face gif. Lol
 

the t3d

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Avoid the tech stuff on fb as way above thier heads.

I was asked how do i know about stroker kits.

I just need to be asked how do i know of the ATI damper and i will post the picard with hand on face gif. Lol
I agree lol. Yeah just spare parts it's good for.
 

the t3d

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Avoid the tech stuff on fb as way above thier heads.

I was asked how do i know about stroker kits.

I just need to be asked how do i know of the ATI damper and i will post the picard with hand on face gif. Lol
Speaking of tech stuff, have you ever cracked open one of these? Since I am waiting for new female terminal ends and a connector, I got curious and I removed mine and I'm tempted to open it up, but it requires drilling out these two plastic rivets, but I can fuck it up if I drill too deep. Also, if you have another one, I want it lol. I'm just glad to know they are replaceable.


 

figgie

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Speaking of tech stuff, have you ever cracked open one of these? Since I am waiting for new female terminal ends and a connector, I got curious and I removed mine and I'm tempted to open it up, but it requires drilling out these two plastic rivets, but I can fuck it up if I drill too deep. Also, if you have another one, I want it lol. I'm just glad to know they are replaceable.
That looks similar to the main EFI breakout board by the battery in the front of the car. All you will find is more wires inside of the box.

Odd that I do not see the pass through for the big 40+ Amp fuse as those use studs on the legs to tie in the major power distribution point unless it is in the right hand empty spot as a removable board.
 

the t3d

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That looks similar to the main EFI breakout board by the battery in the front of the car. All you will find is more wires inside of the box.

Odd that I do not see the pass through for the big 40+ Amp fuse as those use studs on the legs to tie in the major power distribution point unless it is in the right hand empty spot as a removable board.
The missing slots just snapped in and out, so I pulled them out. This is the main side that the lower half is fixed and molded and the top part should come off after I break the plastic rivets free. Since I have noticed the EFI Main relay get hot occasionally over the years, if I'm going to replace all the terminal ends and connector, I want see if anything is extra corroded in here. We are going to find out today!!
 

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@figgie - For your reference.

I measured the original OEM NE coil wire diameter.
- 0.12mm or 0.0047"

So converting that from magnet wire to bare copper thats:
- 0.0040" diameter bare wire or ->38 gauge.

With a resistance of ~180 Ohms stock.

That's a wire length of ~ 280 feet per coil.

Here is a photo of the innards.


I am probably never going to want to wind one of these by hand, but I don't see why it couldn't be done.

Edit:
Forgot to add.
With an average perimeter of ~1.5 inches
= ~2,240 wraps!

No thanks :D
 
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JustAnotherVictim

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Had to wrap a guitar pickup for one of my college engineering projects. We ended up making a setup that just used a record player to wrap the pickup while we walked away.
 

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Yeah makes sense.
I was thinking it would need to be chucked into a drill or something.
 

figgie

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@Piratetip

Good deal!

Reducing the winding bumps the voltage up but nothing a basic 1/4w resistor can't fix.

The issue is, would the bump in voltage cause the tccs to go crazy or worse, induce cross talk on the g1 and g2 signals?

With that said, it probably is better to get them off that other cps and call it. Less time burned.
 
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Piratetip

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Agreed.

Good to see some insight into how they have it setup inside the coils originally regardless.
I enjoy digging into things, always trying to learn.

I will have some results on the rebuilding CPS status soon.
With osilliscope data and all... :D
 
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Piratetip

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Haha!
Wow....
These old CPS pickup coils are total shit, to put it lightly.

Just tested the old one (just pulled out of my running engine) on the bench with the scope vs the new one....
No comparison, I'm not really sure how the car worked at all....

Will start a new thread with the CPS findings.
But first I will stick the new rebuilt unit into the car and make sure everything is good.

Need to verify my rebuild works as it should.
 
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the t3d

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@figgie - For your reference.

I measured the original OEM NE coil wire diameter.
- 0.12mm or 0.0047"

So converting that from magnet wire to bare copper thats:
- 0.0040" diameter bare wire or ->38 gauge.

With a resistance of ~180 Ohms stock.

That's a wire length of ~ 280 feet per coil.

Here is a photo of the innards.


I am probably never going to want to wind one of these by hand, but I don't see why it couldn't be done.

Edit:
Forgot to add.
With an average perimeter of ~1.5 inches
= ~2,240 wraps!

No thanks :D
Well damn. That's some serious windings lol. So, Camry distributor it is then? lol

BTW, I'm about to upload a good amount of pictures of the dimensions of the components within the junction box on the other thread. It took longer than I thought with this semester coming to a close. Go check it out
 

Piratetip

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Camry does work as noted before, but I pulled parts from the V6 pickup truck of the same era.
 

hvyman

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ballenger motorsports also offers all the connectors and dm has most as well. ballenger has all the pins and seals sepeeratly as well. you can also find them all on mouser or digikey too.
 
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Piratetip

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Anyone else want me to rebuild their CPS?
I've got free time since we're all stuck at home.

Shoot me a PM if you want me to rebuild yours, the same as I did to my old one.
 
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Asterix

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What's the chance this upgrade/repair will work on the GE distributor?

Several years ago I had to get a new distributor as the bearings in mine wore to the point the rotor started rubbing on the cap. I bought a reman Cardone (IIRC) which worked mechanically, but I had to use my old coils. The reman coils looked ok, but were just slightly out of spec, making for random hard starts.

It's been fine lately so I'm not desperate, but someday maybe it'll need this.
 

Piratetip

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Don't the GE distributors use the same style coils?
I would think it shouldn't matter, parts should interchange.

At least start with setting the proper air gap.
 

the t3d

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Don't the GE distributors use the same style coils?
I would think it shouldn't matter, parts should interchange.

At least start with setting the proper air gap.
Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's been confirmed the 7MGE pick-ups are exactly the same, but the wires need to be extended/shortened or whatever.
 

andrew_mx83

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Only the early GE used the same pickups. The later ones all 3 pickups are moulded into 1 unit and the plug is part of this unit, not on a separate pigtail.
 

Piratetip

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Interesting.
Got any photos of the 2 different ones?
 

Piratetip

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Ah I found photos.
I see what you mean about the different 7M-GE CPS/Distributors now.

Early


Late


I've never noticed before, but its interesting the GE CPS/Distributor has such a longer nose on the shaft past the gear.
Not entirely sure what the purpose of that is, could be additional support in a machined pocket in the head.
But not really sure why it would need it, the GTE does not have that.

@Abe's 1987
You have a bunch of cylinder heads lying around right?
Do you have any known GE heads and known GTE heads?

I am curious if you can take detailed closeup photos behind/underneath the exhaust camshaft 1st bearing cap (front)
Curious if the GE and GTE have the same machining in that area or not.
To accept a GE longer CPS.
 
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the t3d

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Ah I found photos.
I see what you mean about the different 7M-GE CPS/Distributors now.

Early


Late


I've never noticed before, but its interesting the GE CPS/Distributor has such a longer nose on the shaft past the gear.
Not entirely sure what the purpose of that is, could be additional support in a machined pocket in the head.
But not really sure why it would need it, the GTE does not have that.

@Abe's 1987
You have a bunch of cylinder heads lying around right?
Do you have any known GE heads and known GTE heads?

I am curious if you can take detailed closeup photos behind/underneath the exhaust camshaft 1st bearing cap (front)
Curious if the GE and GTE have the same machining in that area or not.
To accept a GE longer CPS.
I'm also curious if you were to cut it off, what the affect would be? And what defines "late"? 91-92? And also what about the signal wires and their resistances? I'm curious if this unit would a CPS replacement option. I doubt it, but now I'm curious lol
 

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I would guess that the distributor is both heavier and sticks our further than the CPS. Plus the opportunity for someone to pull on the ignition wires would all add up to needing a stronger (deeper) mount.