I looked at 10 Supra's before I found THIS ONE ---> Build Up

87witmoreboost

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Update 7/7/08: Page 3
Update 7/27/08: Page 6

When I turned 16 and got my license, I wanted a Supra. The budget only allowed an NA, which at the time was good enough. I couldn't find a clean enough one, and gave up until I had the money to buy right.

A year ago, I got a job that would support a purchase. I bought the first one I saw. It was an 87 Turbo, 5-speed Targa, and it was BEAT. It had a full HKS dragger which was worth more than the car itself. I bought it for $1350, which was partially funded from the recent profit of a restored 1999 Kawi KX250.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=V1rJQka-yZM



The car needed to be towed home due to a bad slave cylinder. I went through the basics of the car (slave cylinder, valve cover gaskets, fuel filter, plugs, wires, oil change, etc) before driving it to bring out its real flaws.



Big surprise, it had a BHG. I didn't know enough at the time but it had all the symptoms. No power at full boost, overheat after long boost periods, etc. It was just the beginning, next to leaking oil seals, leaking transmission, bad paint, etc. I added one pic of the car - it's more than enough to see why it went up for sale after two weeks. I even traded it for the mustang shown below - it was a beauty, but not the MK3 turbo I still wanted (yes, even trade. don't ask).



The mustang went up for sale and I began a serious hunt for a clean turbo. I looked at 10 supra's and found nothing worth buying. The second to last car I saw was a 1987 Pearl white hardtop, 5-speed, turbo. It had MK4 wheels, koni's, Eibach's, 3" exhaust, intake, lex, 550's, SAFC-II, etc.



It was mid-BHG change and I put a down payment on the car. Long story short, it wasn't done right and the car didn't fall under the agreed terms "If it's done right, i'll buy it". Needless to say, I was totally bummed.

The next weekend, I found the one.

It was for sale in Boston. Now, the irony of this car is that earlier in the summer (before MK3 #1), I almost bought the car from the second owner, but it was bought under me the day before I could get over. The man who bought it was ordered by the wife to pick a toy, and he let this go over a Z32 - which is fine by me.

I drove down with cash and a tow truck and it all began. $2700





1987 Pearl White Turbo, Targa, 5-speed, 92k miles, bone stock. Naturally, it needed a small amount of work. The previous owners were in their 50's and had the car very well maintained but it had sat for a few years before being sold. It needed tires, a timing belt, and some other drive-and-discover-what-it-needs work. The front bumper needed paint, although it was excellent elsewhere. The steering wheel and shift knob had wear, otherwise the interior was flawless.

The first week I got the car, I replaced the timing belt, did a tune up, valve-cover gaskets, and fluids.



I painted the front bumper and in-doing-so, noticed a split grille and cracked fog lights.



I drove the car for one week before it went away for the winter. At this point, I knew very little about the car, but it ran EXCELLENT. Quiet, smooth, and I think it made every bit of power it made back in 1987. It was clearly never abused.




I took the car out of storage when I got out of school the last week of May 2008. The car sat for 7 months on jack stands over the winter and turned over in 2-3 seconds without need of a jumper. I drove it home (2hrs) and had no issues - like it was never parked.

I brought it the shop and it wasn't leaving until I took care of a few things. First, I needed to re-do the valve cover gaskets - damn those OEM screws. I replaced them with stainless socket-headed cap screws with lock washers and loctite. It worked perfect. I did brake pads and rotors all around, and a good head re-torque to 72 ft-lbs.

Over the winter, I acquired a few goodies that began to make their way on to the car. First, K&N intake. It made the wastegate and BPV tastefully audible. Next, SOGI short shift with new Marlin Crawler bushings. By far the best modification that can be made for <$100. It's short and very ratchet-like.




I had a set of 16" all-seasons on my subaru, and I threw them on the 'blades in place of the dry-rotted tires on the supra. I put my new-to-me grille on, along with new-to-me fog lights. Last, the 89+ tails.



I drove the car for two weeks and got a very clear idea of what it needs. First, the TEMS shocks are SHOT and I have a loose swaybar endlink. I will be replacing this all with Tokico Illumina's, Eibach, and ST Sway's within the next two weeks. Knowing it still wasn't just right, I parked it.

So, this brings me to the point where this thread goes from past to present.

Sawblades FTL, so I found some wheels. I have a soft spot for MK4 wheels on the MK3 and planned to get a set in a couple weeks, but couldn't pass up a recent purchase. (4) OEM Mustang Cobra wheels, 17x9", $150. I found them on craigslist and couldn't pass it up. I plan to go 255/45-17 front, 275/40-17 rear.




On-shelf, I have a 3" Cooleeze DP w/elbow, 2.5" test pipe, 7M afm (no air screw), lotek 2-pod pillar, 89+ 3-p wing, (wicked cool 4-button) HKS TT, and, now, prosport electric boost gauge.

The power plans are all of the above with AEM UEGO wideband (or Autometer), MBC with EGR soleniod bypass (or HKS EVC1,2), hardpipes, and 13ish psi. My goal is to need a helmet to run the car at New England Dragway (<13.99), but I think that might not come til next year.

Spent a whole weekend cleaning the car from every door/hood/trunk jam, to q-tip's on the interior.



^ My buddy's 350

I will continue to update the thread as I begin getting parts in. The community has been excellent about sharing tech tips, so please don't hesitate to ask if you see something I did that you have questions on.
 
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The Dude

no more supra
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Nice man, same color combo as mine and in great condition. The pearl's really shining through on that last day pic. My old supe used to have Cobra rims on it and they fit well. Those look to be the same ones my friend has on his '96 Cobra.
 

87witmoreboost

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Yea, I think the Cobra wheels will work excellent. From what I have heard, 255's front, 275's rear, shouldn't rub the fenders. Anyone know if I can go wider than that on the 9" rims without rubbing issues? I believe they are +26mm offset - but say so with little confidence.
 

xarewhyayen

276 whp - 324 tq @ 13psi
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That's a great car to start a build-up on. Ill look forward to following this thread. I love the pearl white, i hope you don't change up the color in the future. Congratulations on a good smart purchase.
 

coobies5

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nice read!
sounds like my trip for when i had to look for a truck i had to have looked over at least 200 different trucks no lie.....ebay, autotrader....local and not so local dealerships, lots of carfax reports, you name it......a whole 4 or 5 months to find mine
 

91T breezen'

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Great looking car! You should go all the way with the 89+ look, and do the bumper cover later on. Also, a great job on the KX too! Gotta' love the green! I do want to warn you about the Mustang wheels though. Remember that they are not hub centric for the Supra. You probably will not be able to find rings for them also, as most are made for oem bore, to after-market bore. With that being said, you should have rings machined for them, or just be very careful when you torque down your lugnuts. Keep in mind that your lugs will be supporting all the rim/tire weight, and must be aligned perfectly in the holes, and then torqued in a star pattern carefully. You should also re-torque every week or so, especially if the roads are bad where you live. I would just spend the extra money and have the rings machined, for peace of mind. I had a set of Mustang wheels that balanced out really well, but never felt balanced because of the non hub centricity.
Good luck with your build.
 
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87witmoreboost

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Great looking car! You should go all the way with the 89+ look, and do the bumper cover later on. Also, a great job on the KX too! Gotta' love the green! I do want to warn you about the Mustang wheels though. Remember that they are not hub centric for the Supra. You probably will not be able to find rings for them also, as most are made for oem bore, to after-market bore. With that being said, you should have rings machined for them, or just be very careful when you torque down your lugnuts. Keep in mind that your lugs will be supporting all the rim/tire weight, and must be aligned perfectly in the holes, and then torqued in a star pattern carefully. You should also re-torque every week or so, especially if the roads are bad where you live. I would just spend the extra money and have the rings machined, for peace of mind. I had a set of Mustang wheels that balanced out really well, but never felyt balanced because of the non hub centricity.
Good luck with your build.

I will highly consider this - I have access to a lathe at work and may turn down some ABS cylindrical stock we have to make rings. I have heard of people using PVC pipe. but I would have to get lucky for the ID and OD of the PVC to match.

I will measure the required ring size and see where I can get.

Thanks for the heads up.


EDIT: http://www.1010tires.com/hubrings.asp

http://www.buywheelstoday.com/products/Hub+Centric+Rings.bwt

Worth every penny to me to hit the torerances right without having to arrange lathe time at my work.
 
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noah89t

get naked & boost a supra
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2.5" test pipe, 7M afm (no air screw)
The power plans are all of the above with AEM UEGO wideband (or Autometer), MBC with EGR soleniod bypass (or HKS EVC1,2), hardpipes, and 13ish psi. My goal is to need a helmet to run the car at New England Dragway (<13.99), but I think that might not come til next year.
as stated before, nice build thread.
i would stay away from the 2.5" test pipe and get a 3", very cheap to do yourself. do not run the 7m afm without the screw, as you will run lean and a AEM wideband is a must over the autometer= (crap). save the money you would spend on a mbc and get an electric bc, you will be happier. hardpipes and an ic are a great upgrade. then a turbo
good luck.
 

johnathan1

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I am SO jealous of your car. I would gladly sell mine if I could have one that is as nice as yours. Your car is exactly the same as mine, but about 50x better.

Honestly, I would have kept the pre-89 taillights and sawblades on it.
 

87witmoreboost

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as stated before, nice build thread.
i would stay away from the 2.5" test pipe and get a 3", very cheap to do yourself. do not run the 7m afm without the screw, as you will run lean and a AEM wideband is a must over the autometer= (crap). save the money you would spend on a mbc and get an electric bc, you will be happier. hardpipes and an ic are a great upgrade. then a turbo
good luck.
Luckily, the way I dealt with the AFM screw removal (pics to come soon), I tapped the hole and can simply get a longer bolt to control un-metered air. I had read that the car is so pig-rich, that you can get away with it without being too lean - I suppose the wideband and careful driving will tell me right away.

Anyone else have any experience with AFR's after an air-screw mod?
 

noah89t

get naked & boost a supra
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i told you this from my own experience. when you back out the screw, you will run leaner. you can take that to the bank.
 

87witmoreboost

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i told you this from my own experience. when you back out the screw, you will run leaner. you can take that to the bank.
My apologies for appearing to ignore your $0.02. I guess the questions is how lean, but I assume from your piggyback suggestion that it will be unsafe. I can start with backing it out a small bit, and taking it further when I buy a SAFC late in the summer.

Lean, FTW? Nope.
 

Quin

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What a steal! You can't find NA in that good of shape with 30k more miles for that around here.
 

87witmoreboost

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UPDATE: 7/7/08

Well, i've slacked a bit on updates.

I had a christmas-morning-like weekend two weeks ago and got my new wheels and suspension on.

Got a set of Sumitomo HRT Z II's for my mustang wheels. 245/40-17 Front, 255/40-17 rear.




This same week, I ordered a set of Illumina's with RS*R race springs from ms07s (props on the good price). I spent a good 8 hours on Saturday the 21st getting the shocks and springs in.



Taking the back apart was too time consuming. Toyota should have made easier-access caps.



The whole job went very well - no frozen nuts, broken bolts, etc. The only trouble was getting the sway bar end-link off (drivers side had play). Took a cut-off wheel because the socket center of the link bolt stripped. Again, you could have done better, Toyota.



See something on top of the ball joint? I thought so. It's a grease fitting. That ball joint had some play. I wasn't ready to buy a new A-arm so I lifted the trick from a family member. Give the top of the BJ a wack with a hammer (in a vice), and then drill a small hole (size not on the top of my head) to the side of the ball. Tap the hole and thread in a grease fitting. Stick the grease gun on and give it hell. It made it nice and solid - all for under $1.00.

When I lowered the lift to the ground, the car was getting lower, and lower, and lower, and fender gap got smaller and smaller. By the time the lift arm hit the ground, the car was too low to get the lift arm out without hitting the rocker.

Awesome.









Naturally, I took it around the block, PETRIFIED of wheel rub or worse. First corner I took showed a day and night difference - the car was dead flat. I put it away for the night and got the tires mounted.

I ordered my hubcentric rings and TRD badges for the wheels - yes, TRD gets the credit for these.



Well, here is the before and after.



I love it.

The alignment shop got it within spec on all stock adjusters.



The wheels sit damn close to frush - not exactly 'herra' tho. I was really worried about wheel rub with the +25mm offset and lower height as another member was rubbing on stock wheels and tires with the RS*R race springs. I gave the inner-fender screw tab a wack up with a rubber mallet as it was the closest body part to the tire, and greased up the inner fender to see if it would appear on the tires.

Well, I've pushed the car very hard on some ramps and backroads and I get ZERO rub. The car is very sure-footed and my original idea of ST Sway's is getting back-shelved because the body roll isn't as bad as I expected - i'll save it for the future and make it a fun surprise to feel the difference.



Boost on the highway uses gas, ya know?









I had one more body issue to tackle. If you want your 89+ tails to use your 89- molding, look at this, and listen good.



I bugged Johnathan1 with a ton of PM's and could not get it to work as easy as I was told. There is no easy way to do this. Period. The next picture is the sad truth of how to make the molding fit - take your time and it will come out excellent.



Yes. Be very careful. It will take over and hour and come at the cost of 4 blisters, a dirty garage floor, and a bad mood. I cut it, then use my grinding wheel to get it more plane, then sanded with 120 grit. 3M double-sided FTW.

I also installed my HKS TT in the blank under my soon-to-be-replaced-because-my-cda9884-is-in-the-mail alpine cd player. That shift knob is the nude version of the leather-wrapped. I took the leather off because it was faded and missing a chunk. I will pay $100 to anyone that can get me a MINT burgundy leather wrapped original knob. You have my word.



Power mods are coming in a couple weeks - stay posted.

 
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CaptMKIII

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Looks great. I really like the wheels on there, I was probably going to do something similar just because it's a cheap fix over the sawblades. I have some wheels off my 98 Mustang GT that I was going to throw on the Supra instead of going out and buying some...unless I can find a cheaper set of some sick wheels.

Nice work though!
 

JDMMA70

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Nice +1 on the old school TT. Should replace that 3rd brake light with an 88. Fits the win better IMO
 

87witmoreboost

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Found a craigslist item I couldn't pass up and bought it today.

Apexi AFC Neo brand new in the box, never taken out of the plastic - $150

Craigslist FTW.
 

suprastanger507mgte

2x88+2x89+1x91+2x92=ME
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wow..nice work on the car and good choice of items for the build. Attention to detail is beginning to show on your car. Very nice build up./