**How to wire a soarer 1JZ into MA70**

mattsplat72

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#81
I am using a JZX90 harness, I used the JZZ30 pinout it is the same. I set mine out and traced every wire , kept what I needed and got rid of the shit. I used the 7mgte tewd to trace the corresponding wires for the connections on the Chaser harness. Ya know blue wire from this plug goes to XXXX so I figured out what the blue wire was so I could figure out what XXXX was. ( fucking car algebra)

I have made my own eb plug basically they are just the Batt, B+1,B+, Mrel, I didnt use the Theft horn, 40a or the Batt Light for the cluster.
I have stripped out the Ac, Trac, Diag box, Hydro fan. seems to have made shit easier. I have 12 wires on the ecu to wire in and 12 from the intermediate plugs. I hopefully will be running soon. If not then I just scrap it and get a JZA70 set up lol.
 

Mr dude

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#83
I can't figure out the wiring for the cruise control. The 'power on' for the cruise light works, but that's it. Which wires are for the cruise only? Anyone knows how to wire it up?
Btw, my battery light stays on all the time. The alternator is working fine, no issues at all. It's probably a wiring thing, but how do I fix it....
 

Kevin S. OG

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#84
The battery charge light haves a diode then the light if the alternator doesnt provide juice when the ignition is on it generates a low voltage on the feedback biases the diode allowing the light to come on you have a lower voltage then ~9 volts or ground in the circuite that feeds the light it could be wiring or a bad regulator in the alternator.

The battery charge light comes on based on the heath of the "L" connector/pin of the alternator


Soarer didnt come with cruise.
At least in my case.
You use the old cruise from the car chassie connect mechanical cable to the throttle body make sure the throttle speed brakelight feedbacks are hooked up right on the cruise computer.
 

destrux

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#85
After reading through this thread I'm a little confused... is the info in the OP correct or not?

I'm wiring an early 90's 1JZ automatic soarer into an 87' MA70 automatic.
 

bigj

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#86
ok im doin a soarer 1jz swap into my 1990 supra. i've read through this whole thread and havn't started wiring things together yet because of two questions i have. first my IK1, IK2, and IJ1 connectors look the same as the ones described but my IJ2 connector looks different. should the wire still be the same coming off that connector? Second when i got the engine w/ the ecu and harness i saw that the 16pin and the 28pin plugs off the ecu had the wires cut. do i need these plugs in order to have the guages work? Any help would be much appreciated!
 

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destrux

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#89
Wait, the ECU plugs were cut off the harness? Is that what you're asking? If the ECU plugs were cut then just solder them back up. If the wires were ripped out (like mine were) just google "soarer ecu pinout" and there's a picture with abbreviated descriptions of the wiring that you can use to figure out what went in which hole in the plugs. I also downloaded a bunch of japanese wiring diagrams and pictures of the ECU plugs that helped me figure it out. I can email these to you if you want, but it will still be a PITA to figure it all out.

My soarer harness also had two extra plugs that had wires for the heater solenoid and a/c compressor that were not mentioned in the OP in this thread. I had to trace the wires back to their source and test them with a continuity tester to figure them out. I didn't install a/c or cruise in my car though, and I didnt have PPS or any extra options (other than tems, which I was unable to hook up with the soarer ecu, it has no tems outputs).

Also, I figured I should mention that my car started first try and runs smooth. Fired it up the first time last week. Had to wait forever to buy the IC and some other hard parts for the install. Still saving for the exhaust.
 

eyesoarer6

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#90
Wiring the M1 plug is mainly for your gauges
• Brown – Brown from IK2 (ground for cluster)
• Yellow/Black – Yellow/Black from IK1 (Oil pressure gauge)
• Grey/Green – Blue/Yellow of IK1 and Yellow/Green from IJ1 (Engine Light)
• Purple – Black/Yellow from IJ2 (12v switch, alt to charge batt)
• Red/Black – Red/Black from IK1 (Reverse lights)
• Yellow – Yellow from IJ2 and Red/Blue IJ1 (Speed sensor)
• Yellow/Green – Yellow/Green from IK1 (Water Temp Gauge)
• Pink – Pink from IJ2 (Speed)
• Black – Black from IK1 (Tach)

Wiring the B1 plug is mainly for ignition and fuel
• Green – Brown from IK2 (Ground for Fuel Pump)
• Black/Blue – Black from IK2 (NSW)
• White – Blue from IK1 (AT Switch)
• Black/Red small – Green from IJ1 (Fuel)
• Black/Orange small – Black/Orange from IJ2 (switched power, ignition)
• Black/White big – Small Black/White from IJ1 (Starter)
• Black/Yellow – Black/Yellow from plug on engine harness loom (VSV Water)
• Yellow – Red/Green from IJ1 (Fuel)
• Red/Yellow – Red/Yellow from IJ1 (ELS)
• Black/Orange big – both Black/Orange from IJ1 (Switched power, ignition)
• Black/Red big – Black/Red from IJ1 (Fuel Main)
Wiring the B2 plug
• Blue – White from IK1
• Green – Green from IK2
• Yellow/Blue Red IJ2
I know this is an old thread but can someone post up the body plug harness diagram. What wire is what and what color is what like the above. I need full details for harness IJ1, IJ2, IK1, IK2 please.

I also need to know what is in the BOLD above- what is green wire from IK1, etc? Evilempire post a helpful diagram but its not complete.
 

roystunna

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#91
Black/Yellow – Black/Yellow from plug on engine harness loom (VSV Water)
Hey, can one of you guys clarify which wire this is? i have wired almost everything else except for this one wire "Black/Yellow from plug on engine harness loom (VSV Water)". Im swapping a soarer 1JZ automatic into an 89 turbo/manual tranny. Thanks
 

destrux

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#92
Btw, my battery light stays on all the time. The alternator is working fine, no issues at all. It's probably a wiring thing, but how do I fix it....
My battery light is on constantly too. My volt gauge shows 14.0, and the TSRM test all pass. The wiring listed here for the battery light is incorrect, along with a few other related things.

• Grey/Green – Blue/Yellow of IK1 and Yellow/Green from IJ1 (Engine Light)

The yellow/green wire on the engine side that is connected to the grey/green check engine light wire on the body side is what I think the problem is. The 89' supra diagram shows the yellow/green wire is used for the alt-L terminal on the body side, and the JZZ30 uses the same wire color for that wire. The 87' MA70 chassis uses a solid yellow wire (at least, at the alternator connector it does).

There shouldn't be two wires to the CEL from the engine harness, the 7MGTE ecu uses a single "W" pin to ground the CEL, and the soarer ECU pinout shows a single "W" pin also. Only that one pin should be connected for the CEL to function.

What could cause a real problem was if the car turned on the check engine light while the alternator was spinning, this would probably burn the CEL ground circuit in the ECU (or worse). I haven't had a problem so far because my CEL has only lit up with the "KOEO light show" routine and not because of a code.

I checked into this, and that wiring connection is incorrect. The yellow/green wire from the alt-L terminal should NOT splice into the grey/green and blue/yellow wires for the CEL.

If the yellow/green wire (from IJ1/the alternator) is connected to the battery light directly, it will work correctly. The problem is, it looks like the yellow wire for the battery light isn't in the cluster of body plugs near the ECU at all on the MA70 chassis. It looks like it runs from where the old alternator plug was, along the drivers side of the engine bay, through the grommet in the drivers side of the firewall and go directly to the cluster from there. You'd have to run a wire from the alternator L terminal (yellow/green wire, once again) over to the old alternator plug's yellow wire.

While diagnosing this I found another problem, and this is the reason my battery light, lamp-out light and brake warning light were all stuck on.... AND the reason my starter only worked half of the time.

The alt-L terminal from the old alternator wiring is the solid yellow wire that was on the old alternator connector. Now it's wired to the black wire on the EB2 plug. That's not correct. The yellow/green wire from the alternator should be wired to it instead, as the only purpose of that yellow wire is to send signal power to the battery light.

I disconnected the black wire from it. My battery light, lamp-out light, and "brake" light are all off now when the car is running (unless I pull a rear bulb, or yank the e-brake... then they turn on as they should).

About that black wire in EB2 that's now disconnected from the yellow wire (take note that it is, however, still connected to the black wire from EB1)....that wire is *kind of* hooked up wrong too.

That wire is the starter solenoid main power wire. In the JZZ30 this wire was used to send power from the starter relay to the starter solenoid. The power came to the underhood starter relay from the underhood fuse box through the 60A main fuse. The MA70, however, has the starter solenoid inside under the passengers kick panel, so the black wire at the EB2 plug is completely going to the wrong area.

The way this guide has it... it's getting power that's being fed through the black wire that was cut from EB1 and connected to EB2. The power runs all the way from the B1 plug under the dash... out to the EB2 plug by the battery... and backwards through the same harness to the starter solenoid.

The real problem is the wire in EB1 (which is black/white at the body plugs in B1) was only designed to send a maximum of 7.5A of current to signal the starter relay to turn on. This wire was never designed to take the full load of the starter solenoid. The wiring is too small, and the extra 6 feet of length (from running it the long way) magnifies the voltage drop. I'm only getting 8.5V at my solenoid when I hit the key to start.

This is why so many people doing this swap are having problems with the starter not working reliably... there's not enough juice on that wire for the solenoid to fire properly. It might work fine with a brand new starter, but a slightly older (but still acceptable) starter might act like mine and click every other try rather than actually start (this is infuriating when you try to show your friend the new motor swap you've just completed, BTW).

The right way to wire that would be to run a new wire from the heavy gauge black/white wire on the B1 plug to the starter solenoid directly (I intend to do this). You can abandon the black wire from EB1 and the black wire in EB2 as they will both be dead once disconnected at the starter and the B1 plug.

I also plan to hook the battery light up correctly (eventually). I'm going to splice a wire from the yellow/green wire at the alternator plug right to that yellow wire that I disconnected from the black wire in EB2 above. For now I clipped and taped off the yellow/green wire where it was spliced with the other two at the body plugs (this needs to be done no matter what).

I should probably say this too...
No disrespect to the OP, I just wanted to post my solutions to these problems. The rest of the wiring info was a huge help. These were the only mistakes I found so far.

Although, I would also like to see if something can be done so that my fuel pump doesn't run the entire time the key is on (KOEO it should only run to prime, then the ECU should shut it off). I suspect that this won't be easy as I believe the JZZ30 used a fuel pump computer. I may just wire a dash switch to turn the fuel pump on and off. My reason for this is that I'm afraid I'll kill my battery (and wear my fuel pump) every time I leave the key on for more than a few minutes to test stuff or listen to the radio (if I ever install a radio).



---------- Post added at 05:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:12 PM ----------

Black/Yellow – Black/Yellow from plug on engine harness loom (VSV Water)
Hey, can one of you guys clarify which wire this is? i have wired almost everything else except for this one wire "Black/Yellow from plug on engine harness loom (VSV Water)". Im swapping a soarer 1JZ automatic into an 89 turbo/manual tranny. Thanks
The soarer harness should have an obvious 2-pin heater VSV plug sticking out of the main harness. It's the closest thing to the firewall grommet that branches out of the main harness. Use a meter to test which wire that one connects to back at the body plugs. On mine it was a small white connector that also had a few A/C wires in it.

---------- Post added at 05:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:17 PM ----------

again it's been asked on here and not answered unless i missed it... it there a difference between soarer and chaser harness ? i've used this guide and i'm not gettign anywhere.. which leads me to believe i may have a chaser harness... but the ecu connected to it says jzz30 but my 1jz has TRC on the throttle body?
Mine was a JZZ30 and this worked for me, mine did not have TRC. Not sure what it is you have, possibly a newer year that had some changes?
 
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destrux

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#93
Also found out that this connection is wrong.

• Yellow – Red/Green from IJ1 (Fuel)

The red/green wire is coming from the FPR pin on the soarer ecu, which outputs either +2.5v (slow), or +5v (fast) and was used to control the soarer's fuel pump ECU. The MA70 has no fuel pump ECU, but instead uses a relay and a resistor system to control fuel pump speed. The yellow wire it's hooked to here is the wire that used to connect the FPR pin on the 7M ECU to the FPR pin on the fuel pump speed control relay, which would be fine except the 7M uses a switched ground signal on this wire. So the way it's hooked up here is wrong, but seems to be harmless. It's just causing the fuel pump speed relay to stay on the full speed (12V) setting all the time instead of using the resistor at low speed to slow the pump down.

The correct (well, not exactly correct, but the best/easiest) way would be to just leave the yellow wire and the red/green wire completely unhooked from anything, as neither is needed for anything. This is actually the same thing as doing "the 12V mod" on the fuel pump (where you clip the yellow wire under the hood at the fuel pump speed relay, which makes the system stop using the resistor).


Also, I looked into why the fuel pump runs all the time (even key on, engine off) and it looks like the OP used a spare ground wire (which I've yet to determine what it was originally used for on the soarer) to ground the "circuit opening relay" (which is the REAL fuel pump relay, it turns the pump on and off). Apparently since the soarer had a fuel pump ECU that had full control over the fuel pump, the soarer ECU has no fuel pump control pin on the ECU to ground the fuel pump relay only when the engine is running. There's nothing wrong with doing it this way, it just results in a fuel pump that runs all the time when the key is on. Could result in a dead battery if you have the key on for an hour testing other things, since the fuel pump draws about 15 amps.

Ideally though, it should run for a few seconds to prime when you turn the key on, then shut off till you crank the engine. Then it should run during cranking and engine operation, and shut off when the engine shuts off (either due to stalling, a bad car accident, or key off).

It would be possible to wire up a relay that grounds the green wire in the B1 plug if you found a constant power source that only exists during engine running (and is on a circuit that can handle the load of a relay coil). I can't think of one off the top of my head, but I will repost if I do.
 
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#94
Well im doing a soarer motor into a 91 turbo, and everything in this thread has been a huge help, and i plan on doing a write up myself when this whole thing is done and over. I'm just not finding enough detailed pics of the soarer harness.
 

1jzmk387

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#95
Hi guys,

My 1JZ-GTE came out of a supra is the wiring the same? If not does anyone know of a wiring guide like the one posted above. That would save my life!

Thanks in advance,

-James
 

suprachris

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#97
i just used this for the jzx90 chaser engine. i only have fuel and ignition wired and it fired right up.ill work on the gauges another day. but the fuel and ignition is correct for the chaser. i also ran my own wires for the alternator. that engine harness part was gone only had the oval pigtail. may start a build up on it. thanks for the info.
 

destrux

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#98
Advice for anyone doing this... Six years later I'm adding ac to the car and have to dig back into the harness to connect the wires. Don't skip any even if you don't think you'll ever use them.