**How to wire a soarer 1JZ into MA70**

AF1JZ

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#1
UPDATED: Added pictures of the plugs.

First off, I'd like to say that Odomd did all the figuring out of the wiring. With his permission, I'm posting the instructions for those that happen to get a soarer 1jz and want to put into a MA70. I used the instructions and mine runs now with no problems. Use these instructions at your own discrection. Myself or Odomd aren't to be held responsible if you wire it up wrong.

**Note** This is the wiring for a 1987. I used the same instructions for my 1990 and almost all the wires are the same color. Only a few were different on mine were a little different, but easy to pick the right one anyway. Also, the PPS wiring, some of the AC wiring, and cruise wiring, and the reverse lights if using a manual aren't complete yet. I will edit when that gets done.

**Note** If you get the soarer 1jz, you WILL need to get the supra 1jz mount bracket if you are dropping it into an 89+. If you have the pre-89 crossmember, you will need to use the BIC mounts. Also, the soarer rubber mounts won't drop right in either. You will have to get the 89+ supra mounts or shave off the dimple on the bottom of the mount.

**Tech Info for the plugs**
http://supras.nl/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=38&Itemid=54
http://supras.nl/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=34&Itemid=50
http://www.1jz-gte.us/92Supra6.html


How to wire a 1JZGTE from JZZ30 into MA70

There are two plugs on Driver side near Junction Block #2, a 3 wire plug and 7 wire plug

3 wire plug EB2

• Black – yellow from old alternator plug and black from EB1
• White – white from old alternator plug
• Black/Red – Black/Red from C1 plug and Black/Red from EB1

7 wire plug EB1

• Blue –Blue from old AC connector
• White – White of C1 plug
• Black/Red – Black/Red of C1 plug and Black/Red of EB2
• Black – Black of EB2 and Yellow of old alt plug
• Black/Orange – Black/Orange of C1 plug
• Black/Yellow – Black/Yellow of C1 plug


Next you are going to be using wires from engine harness are IJ1, IJ2, IK1, IK2
7M plugs that you are going to use from inside the glove box are M1, B1, B2

EB1 and EB2 plugs






IK1


IK2


IJ1


IJ2


The EB1 and EB2 plugs are usually cut off and are in the general area highlighted below.


Wiring the M1 plug is mainly for your gauges
• Brown – Brown from IK2 (ground for cluster)
• Yellow/Black – Yellow/Black from IK1 (Oil pressure gauge)
• Grey/Green – Blue/Yellow of IK1 and Yellow/Green from IJ1 (Engine Light)
• Purple – Black/Yellow from IJ2 (12v switch, alt to charge batt)
• Red/Black – Red/Black from IK1 (Reverse lights)
• Yellow – Yellow from IJ2 and Red/Blue IJ1 (Speed sensor)
• Yellow/Green – Yellow/Green from IK1 (Water Temp Gauge)
• Pink – Pink from IJ2 (Speed)
• Black – Black from IK1 (Tach)

Wiring the B1 plug is mainly for ignition and fuel
• Green – Brown from IK2 (Ground for Fuel Pump)
• Black/Blue – Black from IK2 (NSW)
• White – Blue from IK1 (AT Switch)
• Black/Red small – Green from IJ1 (Fuel)
• Black/Orange small – Black/Orange from IJ2 (switched power, ignition)
• Black/White big – Small Black/White from IJ1 (Starter)
• Black/Yellow – Black/Yellow from plug on engine harness loom (VSV Water)
• Yellow – Red/Green from IJ1 (Fuel)
• Red/Yellow – Red/Yellow from IJ1 (ELS)
• Black/Orange big – both Black/Orange from IJ1 (Switched power, ignition)
• Black/Red big – Black/Red from IJ1 (Fuel Main)

Wiring the B2 plug
• Blue – White from IK1
• Green – Green from IK2
• Yellow/Blue Red IJ2
 
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AF1JZ

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#4
bigaaron said:
iirc if you use a Soarer ecu the check engine light will always show a code from the Soarer fuel pump ecu not being there.

No check engine light here. I believe the green wire from the B1 plug to the brown wire from IK2 grounds the signal so there isn't a check engine light.
 

AF1JZ

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#6
I got the auto one since I already had the r154 and of course a lot cheaper. Just had to of course get the 1jz bellhousing, 1jz lightened flywheel, and r154 clutch. The auto wiring harness has 4 of 5 extra plugs that I chop off.
 

AF1JZ

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#8
Yea, I thought it would be stickied by now.

I got the engine from Osaka Motors. The engine was is pretty good shape when it arrived. Only problem was one of the ECU plugs was crushed. But, Odom had a spare for me. I think that it was around $1000 shipped for engine/tranny/ecu and everything else. Even had the ignitor and map sensor.
 

kabanimk3supra

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#9
does anyone have something like this for the 2jz swap?:1zhelp:

AF1JZ said:
First off, I'd like to say that Odomd did all the figuring out of the wiring. With his permission, I'm posting the instructions for those that happen to get a soarer 1jz and want to put into a MA70. I used the instructions and mine runs now with no problems. Use these instructions at your own discrection. Myself or Odomd aren't to be held responsible if you wire it up wrong.

**Note** This is the wiring for a 1987. I used the same instructions for my 1990 and almost all the wires are the same color. Only a few were different on mine were a little different, but easy to pick the right one anyway. Also, the PPS wiring, some of the AC wiring, and cruise wiring, and the reverse lights if using a manual aren't complete yet. I will edit when that gets done.

**Note** If you get the soarer 1jz, you WILL need to get the supra 1jz mount bracket if you are dropping it into an 89+. If you have the pre-89 crossmember, you will need to use the BIC mounts. Also, the soarer rubber mounts won't drop right in either. You will have to get the 89+ supra mounts or shave off the dimple on the bottom of the mount.



How to wire a 1JZGTE from JZZ30 into MA70

There are two plugs on Driver side near Junction Block #2, a 3 wire plug and 7 wire plug

3 wire plug EB2

• Black – yellow from old alternator plug and black from EB1
• White – white from old alternator plug
• Black/Red – Black/Red from C1 plug and Black/Red from EB1

7 wire plug EB1

• Blue –Blue from old AC connector
• White – White of C1 plug
• Black/Red – Black/Red of C1 plug and Black/Red of EB2
• Black – Black of EB2 and Yellow of old alt plug
• Black/Orange – Black/Orange of C1 plug
• Black/Yellow – Black/Yellow of C1 plug


Next you are going to be using wires from engine harness are IJ1, IJ2, IK1, IK2
7M plugs that you are going to use from inside the glove box are M1, B1, B2


Wiring the M1 plug is mainly for your gauges
• Brown – Brown from IK2 (ground for cluster)
• Yellow/Black – Yellow/Black from IK1 (Oil pressure gauge)
• Grey/Green – Blue/Yellow of IK1 and Yellow/Green from IJ1 (Engine Light)
• Purple – Black/Yellow from IJ2 (12v switch, alt to charge batt)
• Red/Black – Red/Black from IK1 (Reverse lights)
• Yellow – Yellow from IJ2 and Red/Blue IJ1 (Speed sensor)
• Yellow/Green – Yellow/Green from IK1 (Water Temp Gauge)
• Pink – Pink from IJ2 (Speed)
• Black – Black from IK1 (Tach)

Wiring the B1 plug is mainly for ignition and fuel
• Green – Brown from IK2 (Ground for Fuel Pump)
• Black/Blue – Black from IK2 (NSW)
• White – Blue from IK1 (AT Switch)
• Black/Red small – Green from IJ1 (Fuel)
• Black/Orange small – Black/Orange from IJ2 (switched power, ignition)
• Black/White big – Small Black/White from IJ1 (Starter)
• Black/Yellow – Black/Yellow from plug on engine harness loom (VSV Water)
• Yellow – Red/Green from IJ1 (Fuel)
• Red/Yellow – Red/Yellow from IJ1 (ELS)
• Black/Orange big – both Black/Orange from IJ1 (Switched power, ignition)
• Black/Red big – Black/Red from IJ1 (Fuel Main)

Wiring the B2 plug
• Blue – White from IK1
• Green – Green from IK2
• Yellow/Blue Red IJ2
 

92gtapex

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#13
Thatd be awesome thanks, im doing jzz30 into ma70 89+ swap
my auto sparky is coming over in about 2 weeks to look at the wiring and this should help him a lot.
thanks

Logan
 

92gtapex

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#16
Mine runs now after following this wiring explanation, would still like pictures of the plugs to make sure things are correct, and so that I can finish off the job.
Fuel pump is just running off a straight 12v supply and I havnt hooked up my crank to my key.
At this stage it wont rev but it does idle, as soon as you open the throttle it dies.
Lots of work to go but this is a big step in the right direction for me
Thank you very much

Logan

EDIT Wont rev due to miss from crack coilpacks...
 
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odomd

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#17
The plug names that are stated are from a lexas sc300 wiring diagram book I bought so I could chase these wires. Since yours is running I guess I have wired 3 now.
 

AF1JZ

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#18
odomd said:
The plug names that are stated are from a lexas sc300 wiring diagram book I bought so I could chase these wires. Since yours is running I guess I have wired 3 now.

You're the snap bam boozel!!!
 

AF1JZ

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#19
92gtapex said:
EDIT Wont rev due to miss from crack coilpacks...
Are the tops cracked or the post things. If the posts are cracked do this. Get some of the big heat shring and slide it over and shrink it.
 

92gtapex

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#20
AF1JZ said:
Are the tops cracked or the post things. If the posts are cracked do this. Get some of the big heat shring and slide it over and shrink it.
the posts are, from under the rubber boot for most of there length, heat shrink? Ive never heard of that used, worth a try :)
I was going to 2 pack epoxy glue them.
 

92gtapex

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#21
odomd said:
The plug names that are stated are from a lexas sc300 wiring diagram book I bought so I could chase these wires. Since yours is running I guess I have wired 3 now.
mines running but not finished...
Still have to finish fuel pump, crank off the key, alternator, and dash wiring (no tacho/speedo)
But thank you very much for the effort you put in to get the 1st 1 done and for making this info available, its been a great help
 

AF1JZ

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#23
92gtapex said:
Tried the heatshrink on the coils and it works great, revs clean now.
Havnt tested under load yet (driving) but it will rev freely now

Logan

Glad that helped. BTW, have you done a build thread yet? I want to see some pics.
 

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#25
92gtapex said:
No I havnt made a build thread on here yet...
Dont know if anyone really wants to look at it lol.
At this stage i dont even have my turbos connected to my intake so its just running N/A.
heres a few pics of it in the build on this link
http://z7.invisionfree.com/AREA_51/index.php?showtopic=301

Of course we'd like to see a build thread.

What do you mean by not having your turbos connected? Like not having the intercooler piping hooked up?
 

92gtapex

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#26
Yeah no intercooler piping
Or dump pipe/exhaust.
This whole build has been on the cheap. total cost so far is well under $2500 NZD which is about $1800 USD which includes purchas price for both Supras in that pic
I might do a build thread, did that link I gave you work?

Logan
 

AF1JZ

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#27
92gtapex said:
Yeah no intercooler piping
Or dump pipe/exhaust.
This whole build has been on the cheap. total cost so far is well under $2500 NZD which is about $1800 USD which includes purchas price for both Supras in that pic
I might do a build thread, did that link I gave you work?

Logan
You need to have the intercooler piping on for it to run right. The link didn't work btw.
 

92gtapex

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#28
Thought that might be the case, I hadnt worried about it up till now as was just dealing with making it fire up.
Better get onto the rest of it then and do my intercooler piping and mount it
 

92gtapex

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#31
the plugs listed in your wiring write up.
Because I havnt been able to find any info referring to them by the same names as you have listed.
It would be great if you could get some pics of all the plugs involved.
 

AF1JZ

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#37
92gtapex said:
Still not sure if my gauge cluster is going to work or not
We'll get it to work. That's the easy part. The B1 plug can be a PITA. The M1 plug is a breeze. I'm going to have to drop my glovebox for some pics. But, anything to help another member out.
 

92gtapex

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#39
Thanks for that, yeah I had that link, thats how i found out which plug was M1 and B1.
Still wondering about the Soarer plugs, have just been trying to wire it from process of elimination to guess which soarer plugs which.
But I wouldntmind some confirmation for my own peace of mind :)
My auto sparky is prbably coming over on Sunday to have a look at the car and to see what he can do.

Logan