Yes they are sintered steel, one common reason for failure is that to remove or install them typically something is pried against the spoke. If it leaves an indents or marks that can provide a starting point for stress fractures. 5M pullies are commonly uses as they have round holes rather than spokes and are not susceptible to fracturing. Gordon on SF made a few utilizing an aftermarket CV which also added a bit of overdrive. our belts have a bit of a unique tooth profile so sourcing something is not the easiest.
Ok well i needed a Roo bar, rock sliders, snorkel, roof rack and really wanted some rollover protection as well so decided to tie it all together into something a bit stronger. Steered clear of the traditional exo cage shape in an attempt to draw less attention from the fuzz, but hoping this will still keep my gf and I somewhat safe in case of a rollover. The roof rack had to mount the roof top tent and still leave space to carry a 9' surfboard which is a bit of a bitch with limited roof space.
So i bought a shit load of tube and nek minut things got out of hand. This is my first attempt at any type of bar work so be gentle!!
Bought a crappy tube ebay spec tube bender/kinker that immediately went in the bin, then borrowed this beauty off a mate which does such a nice job by comparison
I already have an overqualified tube notcher:
Does a nice job also
Start of a roo bar:
Now with radiator/headlight hoops that i dont really like but oh well they'll do
Hi Rob! I had a nice big package waiting from you when i got back from holidays, ive sent you an email about it this morning
Long time no update. Ive basically just been driving the shit out of this thing. Done 20,000km in the last 9 months or so. Plenty of trips, lots of wheeling, and occasionally just running around town as it's so much fun to drive.
Ive been chipping away at a few jobs trying to get the thing as good as i can:
Upgraded the front brakes with later model calipers and vented/slotted rotors, with QFM A1RM pads which are 100X better than the solid brakes and old pads. No more fade. Will be doing a disc upgrade on the rear next. I fitted a manual proportioning valve but the rears still aren't right.
New springs and shocks in the front. The old leafs were very soft and i was getting some mad axle wrap under power. Now running some Pedders HD 40mm lift springs and Tough Dog adjustable shocks. I run the shocks quite firm on the road and turn them down as soon as i lock the hubs/air down. This has made a huge difference to the on road handling, it is much more predictable now and feels less like it's going to kill me. Saving up my pennies to do the same treatment to the rear.
Got sick of the WRX seats so swapped them out for some nice leather ones out of my smashed Alfa 159, sooo much better on long drives now. The WRX ones were just too small for me. Did a double layer on chinamat insulation on the floor while i was at it which has removed a ton of heat and noise, it's a lot more civilised inside now.
Fitted a tonneau cover to the tub, ripped the old shitty compressor out and fitted a Thumper twin cylinder unit behind the back seat which is much quicker. Also ran some heavier cabling back there to run the fridge, and wired up some LED strip lights under the awning and inside the rooftop tent.
Changed the fuel pump as the original one died, and added a Holley Hydramat which has completely solved my surge issues, even with only 2 or 3lt in the tank.
Upgraded to the newer water pump controller, although i got through plenty stinking hot summer days with no overheating.
i made up a water injection system which will hopefully allow me to run some more timing in the motor, i had a lot of trouble with it pinging over summer so hoping this will help. It is all installed and tested, i just need to wire it all up now. Using an ecu output to turn it on over 4000rpm, and taking feedback from a water pressure sensor. Only once the ecu sees enough water pressure it will switch to a more aggressive spark map. If there is any issues with the system it will revert back to the base timing map as a failsafe. Running 160psi water pressure and an atomising jet for a very very fine mist @ 150cc/min.
Only real issue i had was while we were camping at the Buckland Valley over Christmas, did a bit of carnage trying to get up one of the tracks. The drivers side trunion/kingping bearing exploded which cambered the wheel in, and caused the drag link to foul on the spring U-bolt. This meant i couldn't turn left of center at all. Right turns were fine! A very slow and frustrating drive back to the campsite!!
Spent the next 2 days getting lifts into town for parts, and rebuilding half the damn front end at camp....
The truck has also been on towing duty recently as i bought my first boat a few days after getting home from that trip. I did a bit of work to it and have had it out a few times already, it's great fun!
I've been getting a bit of noise from the transfer case in 4wd recently, i think the chain has stretched.
Next big jobs will be the rear disc brakes and crossover steering, both of which I'm hoping will help it feel safer on the road. Sick of spongy brakes and crazy bump steer.
Will also be regearing and adding traction aids once funds allow. Thinking of truetrac in the rear and e-locker in the front. Would love to be twin locked but it needs an LSD for on road use otherwise it fries the inside tyre every corner. Thinking of 5.29 gears, it feels very tall in the gearing at the moment with 4.56's. It does 130km/h (80mph) in 2nd gear, which is a bit excessive. Dreaming of dual cases but i think that's a while off....
Oh, and i'd like A/C before summer rolls back around too.
Looks awesome Andrew. I wish I could camp out in a vehicle like this one for a weekend or two. I been looking into those old GMC motorhomes but I think something smaller might be much more practical for a nice adventure.
Plaaya it really is a great camping rig. Small enough to fit through tight stuff but powerful enough to be fun. And pretty capable in the tough stuff. The rooftop tent is great, we can pull up and be ready to sleep in 5 mins and packed up in the same
Rob the pic with the snow is at the base of mt kosciuszko. We did a big trip from Melbourne through Canberra, nsw south coast, snowy mountains and back into vic through the high country. Was an amazing trip with a heap of different terrains.
Yeah, yeah boat = Break Out Another Thousand
It's pretty old and tired but it was dirt cheap so I can't complain.
Luckily ive been able to do all the work on it myself so it hasnt been too bad. Working on the outboard and gearbox was a bit of a learning curve but it sings like a bird now and is great fun out on the water
I've only got the first sheet, 150rwkw I think. I've been doing quite a bit of road tuning lately and Will probably head back to the dyno soon to work on the spark map so hopefully I can squeeze a bit more out of it!
So i was banging my head against the wall with the brake upgrade. I tried a heap of different combinations that all didnt work for some reason or had a major compromise from what i wanted to achieve.
I kept coming back to the Toyota Prado brakes as ticking a lot of boxes, although they were a long way from bolting on. After plenty of prototypes i finally got it all to work!!
I'm using 90/120 series Prado calipers/pads and rotors. Custom backing plate to hold the internal drum handbrake, custom caliper brackets and hubcentric rings.
This gives a huge 312mm VENTED rotor (which i even managed to squeeze under my 15's), a caliper with a big 48mm piston for lots of clamping force, and it also runs the largest of the Toyota handbrake drums at 210mm. The calipers, pads and handbrake stuff is all the same as 80 series etc. Should also be dead easy to get replacement parts down the track. Pretty sure FJ cruiser uses the same calipers/rotors etc too.
The stopping power is great, and i love the pedal feel now i have upgraded the master and booster to suit the big calipers. So glad to be rid of the drums!!
Handbrake also works excellently. I massaged the Toyota setup very slightly to take any slop out, so it pulls up nice and tight.
I can buy every single part brand new so i will end up offering a full bolt on kit, and also a cheaper "DIY" kit with just the conversion parts where you get your own calipers, handbrake stuff etc from a wreckers, even pads and rotors if you're extra cheap!
And now for some pics because everyone like pics. Please excuse the crappy finish on some of the parts. I am trying a new zinc plating place and to be honest I'm not very happy with their work!!
Backing plate and caliper bracket
Starting to add bits
All dressed up!
Back in the diff
Caliper is very close to the inside of the wheel, but it clears by just enough!!
This upgrade should fit everything from 1978 to 2005. After that the handbrake cabling changed slightly, so i will work on a new backing plate for the 2005-2015 next. I designed everything to be fairly modular in the hope of eventually crossing the same basic upgrade over to all the 4x4 utes on the market.
Oh, and ive been playing around with the motor a bit recently too. Trying to get the tune as good as possible.
I also wired up the water injection system which i will have a to tune for next.
Currently running NGK BCPR7ES plugs but wanted to try something colder. NGK don't offer an 8 anymore that will work in the 7m, but i did manage to find a Denso iridium that will work, and is equivalent to an NGK 8.
The part number is IQ24 for anyone interested. You can also get them as IQ27 which would be equivalent to a 9 in NGK speak.
Lastly, i picked up an RX7 throttle body to try on the ole 7m-ge. It has 3 x 45mm butterflies which open in a primary/secondary arrangement. Should be great for driveability while still giving more top end than it has now on the stock 60mm TB. When all 3 butterflies are fully open it's equivalent to a 78mm single.
Looks like it will be quite a project to make it fit though....
Thanks. The fronts i already upgraded a while ago from solid rotors to vented & slotted rotors with slightly bigger calipers and high performance pads. 302mm rotors and 4 piston calipers so with the right pad they work pretty well.
The only original part of the brake system now is the pedal, and a couple of hardlines. Literally every other component has been upgraded. It's been a long journey getting it to stop properly, but definitely worth it.