Help! Supra doesn't run right

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
So I got 4 bolts from home depot that I'm using to mount the engine to the stand. I wouldn't think they can be use for normal driving use or can be properly torqued correct? Since I'm missing two of the top bolts for the transmission to engine mounting.
 

figgie

Well-Known Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,455
Location
Shakopee, Minnesota
So I got 4 bolts from home depot that I'm using to mount the engine to the stand. I wouldn't think they can be use for normal driving use or can be properly torqued correct? Since I'm missing two of the top bolts for the transmission to engine mounting.

Probably not. It depends on the TSRM torqwue rating and if that will overstretch those bolts or not.

ie, if Grade 8 or 8.8... might be good to go.

Instead of gamble, go to toyota and see if they have them?
 

figgie

Well-Known Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,455
Location
Shakopee, Minnesota
Finally found time to take out the rest of the engine and transmission out. Wasn't fun without the hoisting points on the heads but I got it out. Had to have two of my brothers help me out.

Also noticed the two missing bolts when I got it out
On those head,

before doing anything with them, you will need to have them checked to see if they have annealed. If they have, they are junk.

a bit of advise, i know that you want to see your car running but slow the heck down. when the head is on these 7m. it is cake to lift with a picker with one person. take head off and you are making your self work more for no gains. hell you could have used one of those heads and OEM bolts to lift the motor. Not sure why you are causing yourself more work than necessary.
 

Piratetip

Far From Maddening Crowds
Staff member
Super Moderator
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
1,993
Location
MKE, WI
Just buy the Toyota OEM bolts for the 2 that are missing.

PN: 90119-10019

They are probably some of the least expensive Toyota bolts I have seen to date.

Kind of odd actually, for a bolt this size I was expecting ~$5 each.
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
Definitely will be buying the bolts from toyota. And yes I will be slowing down on this build but will be keeping it stock as far as I can. Just cleaning up parts right now and evaluating what is missing and or broken. Got all gaskets except for the metal head gasket which I'll be ordering in a few weeks. Will keep you guys updated as I go along. And yes I will be sending the heads to the machine shop before putting time and money into them.
 
  • Like
Reactions: plaaya69

Z06gette

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Apr 29, 2018
Messages
255
Location
Yorkville, IL
It’s true I did it today at work with a picker, granted having a lift and power tools helps a ton but I had maybe 6 hours into it from start to having the motor and trans separated and the bottom end disassembled.
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
Its amazing how a hands on person learns what goes into the design of anything. I took off the egr plate on the back of the head and just now reallized how the system works. I guess that is why they say a person who rebuilds the engine themselves are the ones who can really appreciate the design of the engine itself.
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
aviary-image-1583614740144.jpeg

I cant seem to find the nut that goes here. Trying to find the part number for it. Anyone knows the part number for the nut that goes here?
 

Piratetip

Far From Maddening Crowds
Staff member
Super Moderator
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
1,993
Location
MKE, WI
There is no, nut there.
Its just used as an alignment pin, to make sure the oil filter housing is clocked right.

I found a really dirty photo of one. :D

Filter Housing.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: figgie and plaaya69

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
There is no, nut there.
Its just used as an alignment pin, to make sure the oil filter housing is clocked right.

I found a really dirty photo of one. :D

View attachment 83086
Aw completely makes since. From a second look at mine I'm set. I thought for a second it was a stud and nut and thought the stud had broken. And yes that is dirty ;)
 

JustAnotherVictim

Well-Known Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
4,820
Location
Somewhere...
Filter relocation doesn't permanently change anything. You can always keep the old parts if it's too much trouble or you don't like it.
I can't tell you how nice it is to reach under the bumper and pull off the filter though.
 

figgie

Well-Known Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,455
Location
Shakopee, Minnesota
Filter relocation doesn't permanently change anything. You can always keep the old parts if it's too much trouble or you don't like it.
I can't tell you how nice it is to reach under the bumper and pull off the filter though.
My joy is from seeing oil lines and no oil!

those OEM oil cooler lines are a sieve more than hoses!
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
Head is coming along. Got it all cleaned up and partially assembled. As soon as the head is finished I'll work on cleaning the tranny and then cleaning the block. Will need to run to toyota soon as I'm finding parts broken or missing.

20200312_211437.jpg
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
Just measured my old head gasket. It is measuring at 1.90 mm. I measured in several points around the gasket. Other then measuring the gasket, whats the best way to measure the thickness of a gaskets needed?
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
Also what would be the outcome if I bump the gasket up to a 2 mm gasket or should I just stick with the 1.9 mm? Head and block are staying as is.
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
And finally the copper gasket spray, would it be worth using it on a new MHG? Is it a second safety precaution using it?
 

figgie

Well-Known Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
5,455
Location
Shakopee, Minnesota
And finally the copper gasket spray, would it be worth using it on a new MHG? Is it a second safety precaution using it?
Do not under any circumstance use the copper spray on a MHG.

The VOC in the Copper spray will dissolve the Viton coating on the MHG.
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
I'm tearing my tranny down right now. Tsrm doesnt seem to have the part numbers for the gaskets for the r154. They have the part number for the input and output shafts seals but not for the gaskets. Anyone have those part numbers?
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
Head is pretty much together

20200315_222759.jpg

20200315_222902.jpg

Ordered a new heater banjo as this is bad

20200315_222812.jpg

Tranny is apart beside the gears and I'm leaving them as is as they look good

20200317_182255.jpg

20200317_182304.jpg
 

Piratetip

Far From Maddening Crowds
Staff member
Super Moderator
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
1,993
Location
MKE, WI
I remember that job.
You aren't pressing off the gears and replacing the synchros and everything?
 

Piratetip

Far From Maddening Crowds
Staff member
Super Moderator
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
1,993
Location
MKE, WI
Transmission gaskets come as part of a kit if you want to go that route.
PN: 04331-20050

I didn't want to re-purchase a bunch of seals I already had.
So I used FIPG to seal the case half's, works fine.
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
I remember that job.
You aren't pressing off the gears and replacing the synchros and everything?
No everything ran fine when I drove it ahwile ago. And visually everything looks good. I wanted a visual inspection and also wanted the see the inners of the r154. And also wanted to reseal or gasket everything as a preventative maintenance.
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
Transmission gaskets come as part of a kit if you want to go that route.
PN: 04331-20050

I didn't want to re-purchase a bunch of seals I already had.
So I used FIPG to seal the case half's, works fine.
I was thinking of using black gasket maker i have instead of getting the original gaskets but undecided on that. I know the people before me used a red gasket maker. I also did find one of the balls on the bottom of the housing which I need to figure out where it goes.
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
Ouch...
Someone had it apart before you?

Check behind all the plugs/springs on the center housing for the shift rod detent balls.
With a 30 year old car I'd expect everything to be opened at least once. Year I'll figure it out definitely. But it was a bit weird, when I drained out the tranny, the fluid looked new new. But when I took it apart the remaining fluid was a bit milky grayish color.
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
Got the new heater banjo. Just hand tightened in for now as I ordered new crush washer and they wont be in for two weeks.

20200319_200844.jpg

I also figured out where the locking ball goes on they tranny. It goes where I circled on the picture. I forgot to remove these parts before I disassembled the tranny.

2020-03-19_21.21.10.jpg

Cleaning and resealing the tranny is coming along nicely. Gotta order a crush washer for the back up light switch and a o-ring for the rear speed sensor. Also gotta order the front and rear oil seals. I will be using black gasket maker for reassembly of the housing.
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
I just realized the clutch assembly is missing this part shown in the picture (thrust cone spring). This car has been driven for god knows how long without this part. Any potential damage it could have caused? Will be ordering this as well.

aviary-image-1584677542283.jpeg
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
Off the repair topic, I've been looking for a long while into buying a 1jzgtte. I know the swap with the auto goes for much cheaper then the swap with the r154. And since I already have the r154 and just need to buy a bellhousing, what's the major issue with dropping a manual tranny on a auto swap with the auto ecu?
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
I was excited to reassemble the tranny when I found out that this guide pin is missing. I ordered it from toyota but it is on back order. Now I'm sitting here sad while waiting.

20200326_163513.jpg
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
Also took the oil pan off. Everything looks great to me. Everything spins fairly easily.

20200326_182752.jpg

20200326_183259.jpg

Also this dang fan clutch ain't budging off. I have all the dang nuts off. I sprayed some pb blaster and will wait to see what happens.

20200326_183346.jpg
 

Piratetip

Far From Maddening Crowds
Staff member
Super Moderator
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
1,993
Location
MKE, WI
Those are 100% a typo.
I've found quite a few typos over the years in the TSRM.
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
Those are 100% a typo.
I've found quite a few typos over the years in the TSRM.
So I figured out the fuel return line support as it is 9 ft-lbs ( I guess it was a slip of the finger with the 8 part) but where do I find the other torque specs. As I see through the assembly portions of tsrm, only half the parts have torque specs. The other half is suppose to go off that chart I posted which seems really high torques to me.
 

3p141592654

90T
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Oct 11, 2005
Messages
4,122
Location
Thousand Oaks, CA
There are missing torque specs fro some things. You can find some in the back appendix called Service Specifications. The other place they often exist is the exploded diagrams at the start of the chapter.

like this one. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&P=22

If not in those 2 places sometimes it is buried in the text, but usually they just don't exist.

The standard bolt torques are for steel bolt and nut combinations of the specified grade. If you are screwing a bolt into a casting or aluminum part they will be too high. Also, you may not know what grade hardware you actually have.
 

Abe's 1987

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
732
Location
Houston,TX
There are missing torque specs fro some things. You can find some in the back appendix called Service Specifications. The other place they often exist is the exploded diagrams at the start of the chapter.

like this one. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&P=22

If not in those 2 places sometimes it is buried in the text, but usually they just don't exist.

The standard bolt torques are for steel bolt and nut combinations of the specified grade. If you are screwing a bolt into a casting or aluminum part they will be too high. Also, you may not know what grade hardware you actually have.
Yeah I've been looking through the diagrams and the text for the torque specs. I'll have to look through service specs and see what I find.