Help! Supra doesn't run right

debrucer

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Question. After sanding down the mating surfaces, would it be beneficial to wipe down the mating area with Isopropyl Alcohol and a shop towel to make sure there is no oils or dirt on those surfaces? Or should I wipe them off with a dry and clean shop towel? I'm including all exhaust, intake, coolant system, and head gaskets mating surfaces. Would the Isopropyl Alcohol damage any of these gaskets on contact?
I probably would have used lacquer thinner if anything was necessary, but I remember using WD-40 and a microfiber towel for the final prep. Traditional red shop towels leave lint.
 

Abe's 1987

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I probably would have used lacquer thinner if anything was necessary, but I remember using WD-40 and a microfiber towel for the final prep. Traditional red shop towels leave lint.
I was more talking about the roll of blue Scott shop original towels. I may as well use microfiber towels to wipe the surfaces down.
 

debrucer

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Ok so no sanding the head or block? Just wipe clean? I didnt see any issues with the head gasket but will triple check tomorrow.
I'm the wrong guy to ask for this type of repair. My pieces went to the machine shop more than once, so when I went to wipe off before assembly they were already clean. Someone here will suggest better than I can. Sorry. It would have torn me apart to done all that work and not done the block, too. My block needed welding and surfacing a second time, and my head had been decked after it was banana shaped. I had the head surfaced after straightening. There was so much machine work that the head gasket thickness had to be adjusted to account for it... and of course, there were rules as to roughness, and a torque plates for boring. I'd have trouble mentally doing what you're doing )
 
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Abe's 1987

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Dont know if y'all remember these being the ugly orange they used the same paint from the body. I've prepped it and will be painting them black with the stripes on top silver. Let me know what yall think of that?

20200212_155320_copy_2268x3024_copy_1134x1512.jpg
 
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Abe's 1987

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I'm the wrong guy to ask for this type of repair. My pieces went to the machine shop more than once, so when I went to wipe off before assembly they were already clean. Someone here will suggest better than I can. Sorry. It would have torn me apart to done all that work and not done the block, too. My block needed welding and surfacing a second time, and my head had been decked after it was banana shaped. I had the head surfaced after straightening. There was so much machine work that the head gasket thickness had to be adjusted to account for it... and of course, there were rules as to roughness, and a torque plates for boring. I'd have trouble mentally doing what you're doing )
I've been thinking to send the block and head to the machine shop and have them checked out. Not sure yet. Will have to check the price on that and see my budget.
 

debrucer

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I've been thinking to send the block and head to the machine shop and have them checked out. Not sure yet. Will have to check the price on that and see my budget.
The clearly adds to the scope of the repair. You've just opened yourself up for rings, rod and main bearings, bolts, etc., not to forget the effort involved, honing, align boring, etc. Personally, the work is too hard not to be complete about it. But I also understand budgets and the need/desire to get back on the road, too. I'm just not a good one to ask how to do that way.
 

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Dont know if y'all remember these being the ugly orange they used the same paint from the body. I've prepped it and will be painting them black with the stripes on top silver. Let me know what yall think of that?
Definitely better than orange. I went with grey and maybe someday with paint the strips back red. I thought about powder coating, but I hate to take the inner baffle off... knowing I'd never get it back on :(
 

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Ok so no sanding the head or block? Just wipe clean? I didnt see any issues with the head gasket but will triple check tomorrow.
You can do your best flatness check while you have everything apart first.
If you're not getting it machined or if it has no obvious damage just lightly scrape off whatever debris is on the mating surfaces with something plastic to avoid creating any indents in the metal.
Then use some copper gasket spray on the mls gasket if you're reusing what you have and throw it all back together and hope for the best.
Getting them looked at if you're unsure is always for the best.
 

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Two things I noticed as I'm tearing the head down.

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1st Is it normal practice to put two exhaust manifold gaskets?

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2nd frowny face as I saw this fall apart as I was unbolting it! Also can this part be welded back together or is it unfixable?
 
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loc182

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I would guess the double exhaust gasket was a poor repair...

Makes me wonder if the exhaust studs can hold the correct torque? That is a common issue with these heads, but there are kits like this one to solve the problem.
 
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debrucer

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Cast iron can be welded, but it's really only to be done by experienced welders.
Probably easier and cheaper to just get a replacement.
 
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debrucer

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Cast iron can be welded, but it's really only to be done by experienced welders.
Probably easier and cheaper to just get a replacement.
I agree that it can, but I remember an attempt at welding a similar piece... it didn't end well. The experienced welder will be able to tell what it's doing, and apply the correct technique, or filler rod, and probably get it done. That costs and is not practical. I'd bet someone on here or FB will have one readily available.
 

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Replace the EGR, gasket is probably just split. Replace all of those gaskets.
Oh I already have a plan of buying a full engine gasket set and a new metal head gasket. Prevention maintenance I think they call it. And it wasn't split, it is literally two separate gaskets.
 
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Cast iron can be welded, but it's really only to be done by experienced welders.
Probably easier and cheaper to just get a replacement.
If I have to take it to a specialist to have it welded i will probably just get another one off here or ebay.
 

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Oh I already have a plan of buying a full engine gasket set and a new metal head gasket. Prevention maintenance I think they call it. And it wasn't split, it is literally two separate gaskets.
You should deck the head and block then and figure out how thick of a gasket you should buy.
 
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Abe's 1987

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You should deck the head and block then and figure out how thick of a gasket you should buy.
Well the thing is it seems the engine has had work done to the block and head already. And the head gasket hadn't blown yet. The head studs and nuts had been torqued to 90 ft lbs already before I removed the head. Would it really be neccessary to deck the head and block? I've also heard that removing too much material from the block and head could be problematic in the long run, not sure if that's true!

I know for sure I'm replacing all gaskets that I possibly can with all new gaskets including new metal head gasket. I'll be replacing all rubber hoses. I'll try my best to determine if the block or head is warped or not. I'll be deep cleaning the exhaust manifold as it is pretty rusted. Will marginally clean all other parts as I have them off. Will get another egr. Still debating if I'll change the timing belt and water pump now or wait on those.
 

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If you get the head checked they can tell you, shouldn't be expensive. You may need work and you may not, trusting something you haven't verified is a crap shoot. If the shop is good they will know the maximum amount of material to remove so make sure you trust the shop you use.

I would at minimum have it looked at, if they tell you it's flat throw it all together. You have ARP studs I'm assuming?
Change everything you are thinking about while you have the engine out, it's much easier and one less thing to worry about.
 

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If you get the head checked they can tell you, shouldn't be expensive. You may need work and you may not, trusting something you haven't verified is a crap shoot. If the shop is good they will know the maximum amount of material to remove so make sure you trust the shop you use.

I would at minimum have it looked at, if they tell you it's flat throw it all together. You have ARP studs I'm assuming?
Change everything you are thinking about while you have the engine out, it's much easier and one less thing to worry about.
Totally agree!!! I dont know any machine shops so I'll be looking around now. And yes I do have the arp head studs and nuts.
 

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Finally got myself an engine hoist and stand after wanting them for a long time. Question. Since I have removed almost everything off the block including the 2 hosting points, would it be ok to hoist the block and transmission out using the engine mount brackets as the hoisting points or would that lead to a disaster? Any ideas other the reinstalling the head?
 

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20200221_102049_copy_2268x3024.jpg

Here's my new engine hoist and stand I'll be using soon. Very excited to finally have my own.
 

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20200221_102034_copy_3024x2268.jpg

Also picked up three heads for a steal pretty much. Was told they are all from 7mgte's. Not sure if there is a distinct difference between the turbo and non turbo heads. Will be rebuilding them soon enough. Will need two sets of valves, springs and stoppers. One of the head came with the valves.
 

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I wanna say the intake cam was a different size but otherwise identical iirc.
I've never hoisted the engine out of the car with no head but you might be alright if you install the arp bolts with some hardware into the block on each end diagonally. Not ideally the way to do it though.
 

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I wanna say the intake cam was a different size but otherwise identical iirc.
I've never hoisted the engine out of the car with no head but you might be alright if you install the arp bolts with some hardware into the block on each end diagonally. Not ideally the way to do it though.
Will have to think of that while working on getting the lower end out
 

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Kinda disappointed I had to cut one of the studs for the turbo to exhaust manifold as the nut was pretty much rusted to the stud and stripped. Will have to locate another stud and nut. I may try to see if I can find all new studs and nuts for the exhaust manifold, turbo, and down pipe as they are all pretty rusted. Or should I switch to bolts?
 

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Kinda disappointed I had to cut one of the studs for the turbo to exhaust manifold as the nut was pretty much rusted to the stud and stripped. Will have to locate another stud and nut. I may try to see if I can find all new studs and nuts for the exhaust manifold, turbo, and down pipe as they are all pretty rusted. Or should I switch to bolts?
I think you can buy studs and nuts from driftmotion? Maybe i'm wrong on that, but i would personally keep studs and nuts as they provide a better clamp than bolts do.
 

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I think you can buy studs and nuts from driftmotion? Maybe i'm wrong on that, but i would personally keep studs and nuts as they provide a better clamp than bolts do.
Actually as I posted that question I realized, why are we doing arp head studs and nuts when reducing the heads, because they torque better. So I'll make sure I use all studs and nuts for my exhaust.
 

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I know this may seem overkill but what if switch all bolts on the engine to studs and nuts? Any views or thoughts on that?

Also I found out that the exhaust manifold gasket is a two piece gasket that just split apart. Justanothervictim was right on that. My new gasket set proves him right.
 

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My first time removing valves out of a head. Didnt break anything so I think I did good.

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Now I'll clean them up really good and also lapper them as well as I have them out. I may think about changing out the valve guides. Still debating on that. Which guides are the best on the market but not crazy in price?

20200226_152308_copy_2268x3024.jpg

I used this bar to compress the spring to remove the keepers. Will have to buy a proper tool to reinstall these valves properly.
 

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So the coolant hard pipes on my throttle body and isc are rusting away. Can these pipes be pressed out and if so where can I find new pipes for the throttle body and isc? I'm trying to stay within a budget and really dont want to buy another throttle body or isc if I dont have to.
 

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I cant find anything on how to swap out those fittings! To me it doesnt look as one whole unit but the fittings where pressed in. I'll have to figure this out. Not sure yet how I'll do it.
 

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Finally found time to take out the rest of the engine and transmission out. Wasn't fun without the hoisting points on the heads but I got it out. Had to have two of my brothers help me out.

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Also noticed the two missing bolts when I got it out

20200301_172132_copy_3024x2268.jpg
 
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