Help! Supra doesn't run right

debrucer

It's about the journey
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Dec 11, 2006
Messages
355
Location
San Diego, California, United States
Question. After sanding down the mating surfaces, would it be beneficial to wipe down the mating area with Isopropyl Alcohol and a shop towel to make sure there is no oils or dirt on those surfaces? Or should I wipe them off with a dry and clean shop towel? I'm including all exhaust, intake, coolant system, and head gaskets mating surfaces. Would the Isopropyl Alcohol damage any of these gaskets on contact?
I probably would have used lacquer thinner if anything was necessary, but I remember using WD-40 and a microfiber towel for the final prep. Traditional red shop towels leave lint.
 

Abe's 1987

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
655
Location
Houston,TX
I probably would have used lacquer thinner if anything was necessary, but I remember using WD-40 and a microfiber towel for the final prep. Traditional red shop towels leave lint.
I was more talking about the roll of blue Scott shop original towels. I may as well use microfiber towels to wipe the surfaces down.
 

debrucer

It's about the journey
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Dec 11, 2006
Messages
355
Location
San Diego, California, United States
Ok so no sanding the head or block? Just wipe clean? I didnt see any issues with the head gasket but will triple check tomorrow.
I'm the wrong guy to ask for this type of repair. My pieces went to the machine shop more than once, so when I went to wipe off before assembly they were already clean. Someone here will suggest better than I can. Sorry. It would have torn me apart to done all that work and not done the block, too. My block needed welding and surfacing a second time, and my head had been decked after it was banana shaped. I had the head surfaced after straightening. There was so much machine work that the head gasket thickness had to be adjusted to account for it... and of course, there were rules as to roughness, and a torque plates for boring. I'd have trouble mentally doing what you're doing )
 
Last edited:

Abe's 1987

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
655
Location
Houston,TX
Dont know if y'all remember these being the ugly orange they used the same paint from the body. I've prepped it and will be painting them black with the stripes on top silver. Let me know what yall think of that?

20200212_155320_copy_2268x3024_copy_1134x1512.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: debrucer

Abe's 1987

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
655
Location
Houston,TX
I'm the wrong guy to ask for this type of repair. My pieces went to the machine shop more than once, so when I went to wipe off before assembly they were already clean. Someone here will suggest better than I can. Sorry. It would have torn me apart to done all that work and not done the block, too. My block needed welding and surfacing a second time, and my head had been decked after it was banana shaped. I had the head surfaced after straightening. There was so much machine work that the head gasket thickness had to be adjusted to account for it... and of course, there were rules as to roughness, and a torque plates for boring. I'd have trouble mentally doing what you're doing )
I've been thinking to send the block and head to the machine shop and have them checked out. Not sure yet. Will have to check the price on that and see my budget.
 

debrucer

It's about the journey
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Dec 11, 2006
Messages
355
Location
San Diego, California, United States
I've been thinking to send the block and head to the machine shop and have them checked out. Not sure yet. Will have to check the price on that and see my budget.
The clearly adds to the scope of the repair. You've just opened yourself up for rings, rod and main bearings, bolts, etc., not to forget the effort involved, honing, align boring, etc. Personally, the work is too hard not to be complete about it. But I also understand budgets and the need/desire to get back on the road, too. I'm just not a good one to ask how to do that way.
 

debrucer

It's about the journey
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Dec 11, 2006
Messages
355
Location
San Diego, California, United States
Dont know if y'all remember these being the ugly orange they used the same paint from the body. I've prepped it and will be painting them black with the stripes on top silver. Let me know what yall think of that?
Definitely better than orange. I went with grey and maybe someday with paint the strips back red. I thought about powder coating, but I hate to take the inner baffle off... knowing I'd never get it back on :(
 

JustAnotherVictim

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
4,789
Location
Somewhere...
Ok so no sanding the head or block? Just wipe clean? I didnt see any issues with the head gasket but will triple check tomorrow.
You can do your best flatness check while you have everything apart first.
If you're not getting it machined or if it has no obvious damage just lightly scrape off whatever debris is on the mating surfaces with something plastic to avoid creating any indents in the metal.
Then use some copper gasket spray on the mls gasket if you're reusing what you have and throw it all back together and hope for the best.
Getting them looked at if you're unsure is always for the best.
 

Abe's 1987

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
655
Location
Houston,TX
Two things I noticed as I'm tearing the head down.

20200213_201918_copy_2016x1512.jpg

1st Is it normal practice to put two exhaust manifold gaskets?

20200213_201929_copy_2016x1512.jpg

2nd frowny face as I saw this fall apart as I was unbolting it! Also can this part be welded back together or is it unfixable?
 
Last edited:

debrucer

It's about the journey
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Dec 11, 2006
Messages
355
Location
San Diego, California, United States

Piratetip

Far From Maddening Crowds
Staff member
Super Moderator
Authorized Seller
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Messages
1,853
Location
MKE, WI
Cast iron can be welded, but it's really only to be done by experienced welders.
Probably easier and cheaper to just get a replacement.
 
  • Like
Reactions: debrucer

debrucer

It's about the journey
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Dec 11, 2006
Messages
355
Location
San Diego, California, United States
Cast iron can be welded, but it's really only to be done by experienced welders.
Probably easier and cheaper to just get a replacement.
I agree that it can, but I remember an attempt at welding a similar piece... it didn't end well. The experienced welder will be able to tell what it's doing, and apply the correct technique, or filler rod, and probably get it done. That costs and is not practical. I'd bet someone on here or FB will have one readily available.
 

Abe's 1987

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
655
Location
Houston,TX
Replace the EGR, gasket is probably just split. Replace all of those gaskets.
Oh I already have a plan of buying a full engine gasket set and a new metal head gasket. Prevention maintenance I think they call it. And it wasn't split, it is literally two separate gaskets.
 
Last edited:

Abe's 1987

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
655
Location
Houston,TX
You should deck the head and block then and figure out how thick of a gasket you should buy.
Well the thing is it seems the engine has had work done to the block and head already. And the head gasket hadn't blown yet. The head studs and nuts had been torqued to 90 ft lbs already before I removed the head. Would it really be neccessary to deck the head and block? I've also heard that removing too much material from the block and head could be problematic in the long run, not sure if that's true!

I know for sure I'm replacing all gaskets that I possibly can with all new gaskets including new metal head gasket. I'll be replacing all rubber hoses. I'll try my best to determine if the block or head is warped or not. I'll be deep cleaning the exhaust manifold as it is pretty rusted. Will marginally clean all other parts as I have them off. Will get another egr. Still debating if I'll change the timing belt and water pump now or wait on those.
 

JustAnotherVictim

Active Member
Authorized Seller
Contributor
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Messages
4,789
Location
Somewhere...
If you get the head checked they can tell you, shouldn't be expensive. You may need work and you may not, trusting something you haven't verified is a crap shoot. If the shop is good they will know the maximum amount of material to remove so make sure you trust the shop you use.

I would at minimum have it looked at, if they tell you it's flat throw it all together. You have ARP studs I'm assuming?
Change everything you are thinking about while you have the engine out, it's much easier and one less thing to worry about.
 

Abe's 1987

Member
Authorized Seller
Joined
Sep 5, 2017
Messages
655
Location
Houston,TX
If you get the head checked they can tell you, shouldn't be expensive. You may need work and you may not, trusting something you haven't verified is a crap shoot. If the shop is good they will know the maximum amount of material to remove so make sure you trust the shop you use.

I would at minimum have it looked at, if they tell you it's flat throw it all together. You have ARP studs I'm assuming?
Change everything you are thinking about while you have the engine out, it's much easier and one less thing to worry about.
Totally agree!!! I dont know any machine shops so I'll be looking around now. And yes I do have the arp head studs and nuts.