Help! Supra doesn't run right

plaaya69

86.5 Turbo Converted Supra
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You sure do got your hands full, glad to see you are still around and making progress on everything.
 

Abe's 1987

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Yeah I'm still around. Been busy with university life. Trying to push it along. I'm a bit disappointed that the frame was more damaged then I expected but I'll do my best getting it back to normal. I hate seeing these in this kind of condition.
 

Abe's 1987

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Ok so this was my first time welding so do be nice. I got the piece welded in it seems to be pretty strong in my opinion. Here are some pics. I'll be painting the piece and engine bay soon.

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Abe's 1987

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Oh boy I done gone and screwed up. I was changing spark plugs and dropped a small metal piece into the cylinder. I tried retrieving the piece with a small magnet at the end of an 3/8 socket extension and manage to get the magnetic stuck to the valve. I seriously tried everything to get that magnet out but everything I tried failed. I'm now considering taking the head off to retrieve the magnet but have a few questions before i take on this task.

1. The head looks like it has had a head job done not to long ago so can I reuse the head gasket?

2. Do I have to remove the camshafts or the cam gears to remove the head bolts and the head?

3. I have the arp studs and bolts, which socket do I use for removing these?

4. Can the arp studs and bolt be reused? Are they a one time use or multiple time use?

5. Which parts do I really need to remove to minimize the amount of work to get the head off keeping in mind I'm just trying to get the magnet out.
 
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debrucer

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I have a retractable claw on a 18" springy shaft... you push the button and the three fingers come out, let off and they close around the object. I think I'd be looking for something like that. Mine was from a Sears Craftsman set. Not sure where you'd buy it... auto parts store? You might also try a magnet fixed professionally to a stick, and pull it out.

You do sound ready parts-wise to do the engine work, but, you've got more research to do. I'm pretty sure you'll find all you need on this site if that's the way you decide to go.
 

Piratetip

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Try some small/long right angle pliers to try and grab the magnet.

1. Maybe if it's a MLS gasket, otherwise no.
2. No, should be able to leave them.
3. If I remember right they are a 14 mm 12 point socket. Use a thin wall socket 1/2 size.
4. Yes they can be reused. Look up the torque spec on ARP site for re torquing with their moly grease or with motor oil. The torque specs are different.
5. Just follow the TSRM.

Tip- if you are leaving the engine in the car, unthread the back 2 head studs from the block. You aren't going to be able to remove or install the head easily if the back 2 are pre-installed.
 

Abe's 1987

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I have a retractable claw on a 18" springy shaft... you push the button and the three fingers come out, let off and they close around the object. I think I'd be looking for something like that. Mine was from a Sears Craftsman set. Not sure where you'd buy it... auto parts store? You might also try a magnet fixed professionally to a stick, and pull it out.

You do sound ready parts-wise to do the engine work, but, you've got more research to do. I'm pretty sure you'll find all you need on this site if that's the way you decide to go.
I have the retractable claw and tried it. Failed. I also tried another magnet. Failed as well. I think removing the head is my last option.
 

Abe's 1987

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Try some small/long right angle pliers to try and grab the magnet.

1. Maybe if it's a MLS gasket, otherwise no.
2. No, should be able to leave them.
3. If I remember right they are a 14 mm 12 point socket. Use a thin wall socket 1/2 size.
4. Yes they can be reused. Look up the torque spec on ARP site for re torquing with their moly grease or with motor oil. The torque specs are different.
5. Just follow the TSRM.

Tip- if you are leaving the engine in the car, unthread the back 2 head studs from the block. You aren't going to be able to remove or install the head easily if the back 2 are pre-installed.
Yeah I tried a very small pair of right angle pliers and had no luck. All your answers are exactly what I needed. Much appreciated. I most likely plan to unthread all the studs to make it easier to remove the head and yes I do plan on leaving the engine in the supra. Much less work that way. Will keep you guys updated as I go along. I already have the valve covers off. Valve cover gaskets looks fairly new.
 
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Asterix

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Summit Racing has quite a few retrieval tools, with and without magnets. I'd probably try a couple of different ones first.
 
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Abe's 1987

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Summit Racing has quite a few retrieval tools, with and without magnets. I'd probably try a couple of different ones first.
The real issue is the magnet is on the head inside the cylinder. Cant really get many tools to flex that way. Tried retrieving it with another magnet but the magnet really doesnt want to let go of the valve.
 

Enraged

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use a coat hanger with an L bent into the end. insert it, and spin it vertically, maybe you can knock the magnet off of the valve?
 

Abe's 1987

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use a coat hanger with an L bent into the end. insert it, and spin it vertically, maybe you can knock the magnet off of the valve?
I will try that. I know there are a few engineers on here. Good question is how to demagnetize a magnet temporarily so it can fall off the valves then I can use one of the retrieval magnets I bought to retrieve it?
 

Asterix

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You can temporarily demagnetize a magnet by heating it up over its Curie temperature, but it will remagnetize after it cools down. Mechanical shock also will reduce the magnetization, but not get rid of all of it. Neither is really possible here.
 

Abe's 1987

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Any recommendations on a 12 point thin wall deep 14 mm socket that I can buy to perform this head removal? I realized I don't have one and autozone near my house dont have them. Not wanting to pay a ridiculous amount on one but one reliable to use for years to come.
 

Piratetip

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Any hardware store should have one, don't need anything special.
Just a deep socket 1/2" drive preferred or 3/8" with an adapter to fit 1/2" torque wrench.
 

plaaya69

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Any recommendations on a 12 point thin wall deep 14 mm socket that I can buy to perform this head removal? I realized I don't have one and autozone near my house dont have them. Not wanting to pay a ridiculous amount on one but one reliable to use for years to come.
I had to go to ACE hardware just for that type of Craftsman socket when I did mine. I do not recall Home Depot having a individual sockets for sale especially the 12 point 14mm style but Lowes carries Craftsman now and might have it. If you are lucky and have a Sears near by then they will have it as well. Just like Piratetip said make sure it is a thin wall because it is a super tight fit against the cylinder head.
 
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Piratetip

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I would get creative to fish out the magnet before pulling the head just for that.
My .02c.

There is always a way.
 

Piratetip

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Abe's 1987

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One creative example off the top of my head:
Use a toggle bolt or toggle anchor to go through the spark plug hole and rotate 90 degrees.
Knock the magnet off or get it to stick to the metal toggle.
Use a thin tool (dental pick) to rotate the toggle back vertical and pull it back out.

This style seems best suited imo.
There are lots of different sizes.
OMG that sounds like a good plan. I think you have a point, try to get the magnet to fall off without taking the head off. I did discover that there is oil leaking into cylinder one though. Now here is my dilemma, I'm certain that the valve seals are leaking. Not 100% sure but certain it's that as when I bought the supra there was a new set of valve seal in the car and on top of that the smoke out the exhaust only happens at idle if I remember right. Should I remove the head and have the valve seal changed or should I remove the magnet without removing the head and solve the oil leak into cylinder one later? What king of damaged should I expect if I continue to drive in this condition? Oh and I did find the socket at oriellys.
 

Enraged

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you can change the valve seals with the head attached, but it depends on what you feel comfortable doing. If you are going to take the head off, you can just take it to a machine shop and get them to do all of them to be safe.
 

Abe's 1987

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I may want to do a compression test. I'll just take piratetip's idea and get that dang magnet out and do a compression test.. then from there if it does happen to be the valve seals I'll change them with the head on as enraged's idea. Will work on the magnet now.