Test the connector to make sure you are getting power but I am sure you are going to have to drill out those electrical rivets on the dome light housing and add two of the smallest super tiny bolts you can find in your hardware store along with 4 washers and 2 nuts as this is a common problem. This is what I did and I never had random dome light problems ever again.
Already tested out the connector and it is getting power so we know it is within the dome light itself. Will definitely get them rivets swapped out for the bolt and nut. I was having grounding issues with the driver visor light and I mostly fixed that. It still cuts out if I put the visor in certain angles so I still need to clean it out some more for that perfect ground.
Maybe you guys can give me an idea here. The rubber part on the driver side carpet is missing and there is a holes in the carpet there now. I'm thinking of buying some kind of rubber and using a fabric glue to refinish that area. It is the rubber that your foot would rest on while using the pedals. I'll post a pic later today. But any idea where I should get that rubber piece and which fabric glue is the strongest?
After a normal drive I pulled out my laser thermometer and tested different point most of the engine and I got readings between 150°f to 250°f but the turbo housing was reading at about 400°f to 440°f. Should I be worried or is that a normal temp for them to run at? Engine was shut off seconds before I got the readings.
Welp I may have to test compression again I guess. I had the first puff of white smoke come out of the exhaust today. It went away after a few seconds. I checked the oil and it wasn't milky white just your normal brown oil color. Coolant looks good.
I also have a brake fluid leak somewhere just need to find it. I'm having to fill the brake fluid every week. May be one of my rebuilt calipers I rebuilt.
Also need to figure out why my coolant temp gauge keeps cutting out. I played with the connector on the temp sensor and it wasn't loose or damaged and didn't make a difference with the gauge. I'm thinking bad ground.
Aw dag nabit I gone done did it again. Forgot to turn the headlights off and killed the battery again for the 3rd time. I really need to get this wacked up headlights solved. Funny thing is I took the battery into autozone to have them charge it as I don't have a charger (but I do have a float charger, useless) and they gave it back to me in the same state I gave it to them. Argh, lazy people, didn't even try to charge it.
What's happening with the headlights is once I turn off the engine and open the driver door they come on so as I said before the on is off and off is on. So I have to turn the switch to off then back to on and the lights goes off. Also when the car is on, the off position on the switch turns the lights on and the on position on the switch turns the lights off. I know for sure the light motors works but they don't retract the lights, they stay up always.
With the stock setup if the headlights are on, they turn off when the door is opened. Since yours is backwards, that suggests the headlight relay has been wired differently so that grounding the red-yellow wire from integration relay #2 causes the lights to turn off (backwards from stock).
Take a look at the wiring diagram. You can see the R-O wire from IG#2 goes to the headlight relay coil. Something in that circuit is altered on your car, probably the relay. It may have been jury-rigged to run HIDs or something like that which need positive switched beams. That relay is in the box under the hood by the battery.
I just went out with a black light to see maybe if someone already put ac dye in the system as it is leaking. I'm pretty sure it is leaking from both charging ports. I'm going to clean those areas and put new dye in the system to double check.
I also removed my center pop up lid tray and found the broken part of the looking mechanism. I will most likely take them out to a 3d printing place to have them fabricate a new one. I tried fixing the old one and it didn't work.
Will also be putting oil dye into my brake system as it too has a leak to pinpoint the leak.
Still tons of work as I'm looking into it. But I am getting there one problem at a time.
Manage to fix it. Not sure how long it will hold but it is working now. As you guys can see the repair I did, I used a soldering iron to melt the plastic back together on the locking mechanism. I also cleaned it up a bit and greased the pivot points and contact points to keep it moving smoothly.
It is possible your master cylinder is leaking into the brake booster. When I changed mine several months ago it was full of old fluid. You can also see if it wet where it comes out of the firewall and connects to the brake pedal.
Also thinking of getting a pair of 5.25" bose speakers from a infiniti g35 for my rear speakers. Haven't been able to find any 4" bose speakers so will have to look into another brand. I love my bmw sound system so I may get a set of 4" speakers from another e90 bimmer for my front speakers.
Sweet got the dome light fixed. I tried your idea I read on another thread pi about a punch and hammer but wasn't cutting it. Then I took a go at plaaya's idea of drilling out the rivers and a very small screw and nut and it worked like a charm. Both very good ideas.
Nice, may you enjoy plenty of nights with trouble free interior lighting again. When my grandfather had his 87 Supra, his dome light stop working right around 1998. I wish I could have fixed it for him but I was to busy playing n64 or doing homework plus I did not even own a single hand tool or even really knew what one was lol.
lol. I will warn you though I put in LED bulb in both dome lights and foot light and within a few weeks it burned out the gray integration relay box behind the fuse panel that controls the auto-dimming function. I dont think it was the LED's either because I bought over 20 of them and I am running the same ones in my Lexus GS300 with no problems. That relay may have gone bad anyway but since that happened as soon as I went LED, I do not use LED bulbs in the interior anymore.
I've been running LEDs on all the interior illumination for over 5 years now. No issues to report. The fade out of the interior lights is a little choppy with LEDs, but otherwise everything works fine.
Kk so it has been at least 3 to 4 months since I started my supra. Started it up and drove it for 15 mins around the neighborhood. Everything seems fine other then I noticed it had smoke coming out of the exhaust. I captured a video of it. Temp outside is 75 here in houston. I did notice a light smoke 4 months ago but didn't think anything of it but now it has more smoke coming out today. Watch the vid and tell me what you guys think it could be.
So that chart I found ahwile back was correct that depending on the color of smoke depends on what the engine is burning for instance; blueish is burning oil, white is burning coolant, and black is excess fuel burning correct?
And what would be the test I would run to determine if it is the intake valve oil seal or the turbo hot side oil seal? The turbo seal sounds easy to change but what about the valve oil seals? That requires removing the head right?
If it comes down to removing the head I might as well do a full rebuild right?
valve seals are best tested with a leakdown I think? They can be changed with the head in the car, it will be a pain in the ass though. You need to remove the cams, shims, springs & retainers, etc and manage to hold the valve closed so it doesn't drop into the cylinder. People usually use soft rope fed into the spark plug holes, or compressed air.
I went through both issues separately -- a blown head gasket and bad valve stem seals. I had the head gasket replaced and the garage doing the work did not replace the valve seals at the same time (terrible mistake) so I had to replace them myself after the fact.
Before the head gasket was replaced when I would start the car it would idle rough for about 15 seconds until the coolant leaking into cylinder #6 burned off. After the head gasket was replaced the rough idle at start up went away.
Now I was left with a car that blew blue smoke only on start up and the smoke went away pretty quickly after the car was started -- maybe 10 seconds. As a result I changed out the valve seals using the rope method which was a huge pain in the ass. Once I finished the job the car no longer blew smoke on start up.
From your video it seems like the smoke continues longer than it should after start up to be bad valve seals. My guess is turbo seals.
Currently my car is blowing a little smoke on deceleration after boosting when rolling up to a red light or I see smoke if I let it sit and idle for an extended period of time. I sourced a 57 trim I will be swapping in soon.
Ok so I haven't started diagnosing anything yet but I drove the car for another 15 mins today and still bluish/white smoke coming from the exhaust and now I hear a small popping noise from the exhaust as well. Maybe a misfire? I'll take out the plugs and check them once it warms up a bit here in houston. Cold as hell for us Houstonians.
Ok one thing I noticed. No milky oil, no oily coolant. Not losing coolant but I am losing oil but no major oil leaks so I assume it is burning it in the cylinders. The smoke coming out the exhaust is blueish. I will open up the spark plugs and look down the cylinders this Sunday to see what I can see. I will also do a compression test and leak down test to see what I can find. I also noticed it takes a bit longer for the engine to start up, may be the colder weather possibly?
So I looked into my supra today and realized there was a ton of condensation on the windows on the inside. The targa seal leaks so I guess it is causing humidity in the car. I should really replace all the seal ( targa, door, trunk and what not).
And I ran the engine a little today. Smoke out the exhaust is getting worse so I guess the gasket( which ever one) is failing more.