Test the connector to make sure you are getting power but I am sure you are going to have to drill out those electrical rivets on the dome light housing and add two of the smallest super tiny bolts you can find in your hardware store along with 4 washers and 2 nuts as this is a common problem. This is what I did and I never had random dome light problems ever again.
Already tested out the connector and it is getting power so we know it is within the dome light itself. Will definitely get them rivets swapped out for the bolt and nut. I was having grounding issues with the driver visor light and I mostly fixed that. It still cuts out if I put the visor in certain angles so I still need to clean it out some more for that perfect ground.
Maybe you guys can give me an idea here. The rubber part on the driver side carpet is missing and there is a holes in the carpet there now. I'm thinking of buying some kind of rubber and using a fabric glue to refinish that area. It is the rubber that your foot would rest on while using the pedals. I'll post a pic later today. But any idea where I should get that rubber piece and which fabric glue is the strongest?
After a normal drive I pulled out my laser thermometer and tested different point most of the engine and I got readings between 150°f to 250°f but the turbo housing was reading at about 400°f to 440°f. Should I be worried or is that a normal temp for them to run at? Engine was shut off seconds before I got the readings.
Welp I may have to test compression again I guess. I had the first puff of white smoke come out of the exhaust today. It went away after a few seconds. I checked the oil and it wasn't milky white just your normal brown oil color. Coolant looks good.
I also have a brake fluid leak somewhere just need to find it. I'm having to fill the brake fluid every week. May be one of my rebuilt calipers I rebuilt.
Also need to figure out why my coolant temp gauge keeps cutting out. I played with the connector on the temp sensor and it wasn't loose or damaged and didn't make a difference with the gauge. I'm thinking bad ground.
Aw dag nabit I gone done did it again. Forgot to turn the headlights off and killed the battery again for the 3rd time. I really need to get this wacked up headlights solved. Funny thing is I took the battery into autozone to have them charge it as I don't have a charger (but I do have a float charger, useless) and they gave it back to me in the same state I gave it to them. Argh, lazy people, didn't even try to charge it.
What's happening with the headlights is once I turn off the engine and open the driver door they come on so as I said before the on is off and off is on. So I have to turn the switch to off then back to on and the lights goes off. Also when the car is on, the off position on the switch turns the lights on and the on position on the switch turns the lights off. I know for sure the light motors works but they don't retract the lights, they stay up always.
With the stock setup if the headlights are on, they turn off when the door is opened. Since yours is backwards, that suggests the headlight relay has been wired differently so that grounding the red-yellow wire from integration relay #2 causes the lights to turn off (backwards from stock).
Take a look at the wiring diagram. You can see the R-O wire from IG#2 goes to the headlight relay coil. Something in that circuit is altered on your car, probably the relay. It may have been jury-rigged to run HIDs or something like that which need positive switched beams. That relay is in the box under the hood by the battery.
I just went out with a black light to see maybe if someone already put ac dye in the system as it is leaking. I'm pretty sure it is leaking from both charging ports. I'm going to clean those areas and put new dye in the system to double check.
I also removed my center pop up lid tray and found the broken part of the looking mechanism. I will most likely take them out to a 3d printing place to have them fabricate a new one. I tried fixing the old one and it didn't work.
Will also be putting oil dye into my brake system as it too has a leak to pinpoint the leak.
Still tons of work as I'm looking into it. But I am getting there one problem at a time.
Manage to fix it. Not sure how long it will hold but it is working now. As you guys can see the repair I did, I used a soldering iron to melt the plastic back together on the locking mechanism. I also cleaned it up a bit and greased the pivot points and contact points to keep it moving smoothly.
It is possible your master cylinder is leaking into the brake booster. When I changed mine several months ago it was full of old fluid. You can also see if it wet where it comes out of the firewall and connects to the brake pedal.
Also thinking of getting a pair of 5.25" bose speakers from a infiniti g35 for my rear speakers. Haven't been able to find any 4" bose speakers so will have to look into another brand. I love my bmw sound system so I may get a set of 4" speakers from another e90 bimmer for my front speakers.
Sweet got the dome light fixed. I tried your idea I read on another thread pi about a punch and hammer but wasn't cutting it. Then I took a go at plaaya's idea of drilling out the rivers and a very small screw and nut and it worked like a charm. Both very good ideas.
Nice, may you enjoy plenty of nights with trouble free interior lighting again. When my grandfather had his 87 Supra, his dome light stop working right around 1998. I wish I could have fixed it for him but I was to busy playing n64 or doing homework plus I did not even own a single hand tool or even really knew what one was lol.
lol. I will warn you though I put in LED bulb in both dome lights and foot light and within a few weeks it burned out the gray integration relay box behind the fuse panel that controls the auto-dimming function. I dont think it was the LED's either because I bought over 20 of them and I am running the same ones in my Lexus GS300 with no problems. That relay may have gone bad anyway but since that happened as soon as I went LED, I do not use LED bulbs in the interior anymore.
I've been running LEDs on all the interior illumination for over 5 years now. No issues to report. The fade out of the interior lights is a little choppy with LEDs, but otherwise everything works fine.