Help! Supra doesn't run right

suprarx7nut

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I converted my 90 to R134 myself (after the R12 had completely leaked out years before my purchase). I replaced a bunch of components and o-rings, but retained the original condenser. It worked wonderfully. I'd highly recommend it. I was afraid the R134 would be too inefficient to work well, but I was dead wrong. I stayed plenty cool in the Phoenix heat.
 

Abe's 1987

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Yeah it'd be better to convert that way I can charge it myself. Question is which one runs cooler r12 or r134? What's the total cost of the conversion?

Also how to determine if my supra has already been retrofitted with the r134 or not?

Also still need the part number for the door lock bezel metal retaining clips if anyone knows them! I can't seem to find them on tsrm or any goggle searches.
 
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3p141592654

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If it was retrofitted it will have the R134 quick disconnect fittings. If it is R12 it will have the screw on fittings. R134 will cause a small drop in cooling power as the condenser needs to be bigger, but you won't notice.

The clips are the three parts at the bottom of this page with the weird asterisk. I am pretty sure at least one of them is discontinued.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=6703&P=1
 

Abe's 1987

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If it was retrofitted it will have the R134 quick disconnect fittings. If it is R12 it will have the screw on fittings. R134 will cause a small drop in cooling power as the condenser needs to be bigger, but you won't notice.

The clips are the three parts at the bottom of this page with the weird asterisk. I am pretty sure at least one of them is discontinued.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=6703&P=1
Sweet thanks Pi. I'll take a look later on today to see if I have the retrofit or not. I just checked on those clips as my incompetent mind didn't figure out the asterisk. According to toyotapartsdeal.com they should still be in stock at the dealers. Will order them hopefully next week.
 

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1524971341310605820529.jpg

1524971475432816152482.jpg

Ok thank God they had already done the conversion. My r134 gauge hooks right up to them. One less thing I got to worry about now!!!
 
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Abe's 1987

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There are metal screws into plastic in the tail lamp assemblies that work their way loose. These screws hold wire ring terminals together, so when the screws work loose the connection is intermittent, triggering the failure box. Tighten the screws and the problem goes away for a few years. That's the first thing to check.

Also, I've had to open up my tail lamp sensor box a couple of times over the years and reflow the solder joints. It takes longer to get the thing out than it does to reflow the solder. Try that as well.
Actually I figured it out. Some of the grounds on those screws were under the bulb bracket and the grounds were corroded as well . I sanded the grounds and installed them right. Ill have to check every ground on this car now to make sure they are all right. Could fix all my electrical issues. I'm also thinking of putting grease around the grounding points to help prevent rust and corrosion, what do you guys think about this?
 

plaaya69

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I use "Super Lube synthetic grease" for all electrical connectors, grounds, battery terminals, ect.... pretty much anything electrical. Also I heard fluid film works great which is what I am buying next. I see Fluid Film used a lot after a repair in the "South Main Auto Repair" YouTube channel which has tons of great information and tips.
 

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Ok so I took her in today for an inspection, passed with flying colors. I did talk to the mechanic about greasing the grounds, connectors, and terminals. He said they highly recommend doing so to prevent corrosion and rust but he said use nothing else but dielectric grease so the currents can flow properly.
 

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Ok so I took her in today for an inspection, passed with flying colors. I did talk to the mechanic about greasing the grounds, connectors, and terminals. He said they highly recommend doing so to prevent corrosion and rust but he said use nothing else but dielectric grease so the currents can flow properly.
That Super Lube is dielectric grease, just if you decide to pick one up.
 

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If it was retrofitted it will have the R134 quick disconnect fittings. If it is R12 it will have the screw on fittings. R134 will cause a small drop in cooling power as the condenser needs to be bigger, but you won't notice.

The clips are the three parts at the bottom of this page with the weird asterisk. I am pretty sure at least one of them is discontinued.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=6703&P=1
Ok so I ordered the clips today at toyota. They are able to get all the clips in. It will take two weeks but they can get them in just some inside info.

Also thinking of getting this, http://shaftmasters.com/toysupmk33.html, any thoughts?
 
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plaaya69

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Ok so I ordered the clips today at toyota. They are able to get all the clips in. It will take two weeks but they can get them in just some inside info.

Also thinking of getting this, http://shaftmasters.com/toysupmk33.html, any thoughts?
That is the same one I am running. Build quality is top notch and I ran one in my automatic for about last 9 years too. Never had a problem and I did notice a nice change in acceleration.

 

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So did a spark plug change, oil change, and vacuumed and filled my a/c today. Man that oil was black and sludgey. And the stock oil filter location is a pain in the ass to take off and put on without the proper tool. I might have a a/c leak as well, will have to check tomorrow. Also the a/c compressor seemed like it hadent clicked on in a long time. Will also do a radiator flush and fill when I get new upper and lower hoses. Will most likely order them from rockauto as they seem to be the cheapest. So far updates on the supra.
 

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That is the same one I am running. Build quality is top notch and I ran one in my automatic for about last 9 years too. Never had a problem and I did notice a nice change in acceleration.

That's is what I'm looking for is a more improved acceleration. Will most likely also get a better clutch kit and lightweight flywheel. And also find a nice lightweight pulley kit for the 7mgte.
 

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I would stay away from a light weight crank pulley as the weight of the OEM crank pulley is designed to dampen crankshaft vibration. Eliminating that damping element will drastically shorten the life of your bottom end. Either run a OEM crank pulley or a aftermarket ATI crank pulley which is lighter but still retains the damping element that is needed.

A lightweight single piece driveshaft is a great place to start to loose some rotating mass and I would recommend that to anyone getting started with mods.

I like to run K&N oil filters with the 1" nut on the bottom. It makes the oil filter change in the stock spot easier.
 

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I would stay away from a light weight crank pulley as the weight of the OEM crank pulley is designed to dampen crankshaft vibration. Eliminating that damping element will drastically shorten the life of your bottom end. Either run a OEM crank pulley or a aftermarket ATI crank pulley which is lighter but still retains the damping element that is needed.

A lightweight single piece driveshaft is a great place to start to loose some rotating mass and I would recommend that to anyone getting started with mods.

I like to run K&N oil filters with the 1" nut on the bottom. It makes the oil filter change in the stock spot easier.
I was going to grab the k&n filter but for some weird reason I grabbed the Bosch filter. If I remember right the autozone I went to was sold out and I grabbed what they had.
 

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Ok so the ac is doing good So far. Temp gets as low as 43°f out of the vents.

Ordered a Chinese 2 din radio to replace the mess of a system in my supra. Will buy new speakers once I get the new radio in. The sound system in the car right now is trash. Also had to order the factory harness as mine was hacked up. Also got the aftermarket radio harness to plug into the factory harness as that is the smart way to do it.

Most of the parts I'm ordering from toyota dealership takes around two weeks to get in.
 
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Abe's 1987

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Noticed my daily driver was losing air in one of the tires. Ended up pulling this out of the tire. The shit that is dropped on the roads.
20180508_125126.jpg
 

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Abe's 1987

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Sweet I got the new leather shifter boot, e-brake cover, and center console cover in today. Will be installing that and my new head unit in by friday.
 

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It feels good to finally get the title on my name. One year later, lol. I really need to get the fuel system to hold pressure as it doesn't start on a dime like I want it to. I know I sound like a broken record but I'm going to start looking into that.
 

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Ok so current updates. Driving today I noticed the coolant temp gauge wasn't going up. I tapped the cluster and the needle jumps to normal. Seems like it does it every time I start the supra and drive. And seem like when the turbo spools up it sounds kinda rough spooling up. Might need a turbo rebuild.

Also as it was raining today I noticed a leak in the Targa rear seal. Gotta replace that.
 

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Also might need a new ac resister as my low setting doesn't work but my med and high settings works.

And the low setting on my front wipers doesnt work but the med and high settings works.

Also would it be worth it to used seafoam in a turbo car as in some in gas tank, some in oil, and spray some in the brake booster vacuum line into the intake manifold to help clean carbon build ups?
 
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Abe's 1987

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That kind of thing is why I'm not a "Camaro Guy", haha. No, don't cut a hole to make it marginally easier. Do it right. :) Dropping the tank isn't fun, but it's not terrible - especially with a buddy to help hold things in place. Plus, you can clean it up and hit it with a fresh coat of paint or something before it goes back up.
Well I'm not that camaro guy anymore either. Ended up selling it and putting that molla into my most expensive maintenance bmw. Had the extra money so why not do the preventive maintenance on my DD.
 

3p141592654

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The blower resistor is a common problem. Can be replaced very easily in this car, one of the few 10 minute jobs.

I believe the wiper speeds are built into the motor windings. Might be a switch or wiring issue.
 

Abe's 1987

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The blower resistor is a common problem. Can be replaced very easily in this car, one of the few 10 minute jobs.

I believe the wiper speeds are built into the motor windings. Might be a switch or wiring issue.
I may dealing with the switch issue as my headlights aren't right either.
 

plaaya69

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The low fan speed on the climate control not working is a top 5 common problem on these cars. I got a Airtex replacement blower motor resistor on RockAuto. It looked like a OEM replacement and was "Made in Japan".

The wiper system sounds simple but it can actually be a bit tricky to diagnose because in the wiper motor you have parked positions internally but you also have a wiper control module like this one:

https://www.ebay.com/p/1986-1992-TO...le-Computer/673132165?iid=142787035472&chn=ps

and you have your wiper control switch by your steering wheel which all work together.

As far as Sea Foam I would recommend it. I do 50/50 gas tank/vacuum line to motor. If you do use a vacuum line to run Sea Foam directly to the motor just make sure it is a small drip pattern and not a stream of fluid going to the motor as you do not want to hydro lock the motor.
 

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Could a bad ground cause the low speed wiper and low ac speed issue? Because as I said before my headlight switch is in reverse on is off and off is on. Or is the post 89 and pre 89 combo switches wiring different and maybe previous owner put in a post 89 combo switch in.
 

Abe's 1987

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Ok so I know the single and duel ac condenser fans where different in the earlier and later year supra but was there a difference in turbo and non turbo? And also which years or models did the condenser fan attached to the condenser itself come in? I know for sure I have a single plug on my supra for I'm guessing the single condenser fan, would it be beneficial to convert to the duel condenser fan and add a way to add the third fan attached to the condenser itself? Would it make my ac any colder out the vents adding that many fans?
 

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But would it make a difference on my vent air temp putting that many fans on my 87 turbo?

Right now there isn't any condenser fan period so im debating if I want to convert to three fans or if it is even worth it.
 

3p141592654

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The car's A/C cooled fine when they were new, so I really doubt you need to do that to make it work. The two side fans were enough for the manual trans cars.

If you're not happy with the A/C performance I'd start with some basic diagnosis on the system. If you happen to pull the radiator out often there is a crap ton of leaves and debris trapped between it and the condenser.
 

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The car's A/C cooled fine when they were new, so I really doubt you need to do that to make it work. The two side fans were enough for the manual trans cars.

If you're not happy with the A/C performance I'd start with some basic diagnosis on the system. If you happen to pull the radiator out often there is a crap ton of leaves and debris trapped between it and the condenser.
I more so working on getting the system right as of now. My thoughts is living in houston with it reaching up in the high 90's with humidity levels of 50 to 80 percent every day it gets hot as hell
here. I'm thinking in the long run and getting the peak preformance out of the ac system. My current situation is I'm pretty sure there's a leak in the system which im going to pin down next week. I'm also missing the radiator shroud and the ac fans. I know for sure I have the plug for the single fan but I would really like to do the dual fans setup. Wiring up the dual fan for me is no problem. I also did look between the radiator and condenser and saw no debris.
 

plaaya69

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The Dual fan set up in nice but make sure you have a 89+ fan shroud with the dual holes. I still have the OEM small single electric fan but I wired in a relay and a on/off switch inside that will turn on the fan manually (my a/c system is removed). For a small single fan, it moves quite a bit of air.

Are you still running the plastic cover under the engine?
 

Abe's 1987

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Sadly no engine under cover. Would love to find one.

And yeah removing the ac in houston is not a option. Gets hotter than a pornstar's kush. Lol.